iPad 2 GSM Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 58 Steps
Get ready to swap out that tired battery in your iPad 2! If you notice any swelling, make sure to handle it with care. While some parts of this guide feature the Wi-Fi model, don’t worry—the insides of the cellular model are just a tad different, but the steps are pretty much the same, with a few exceptions. Let's get started and bring your iPad back to life!
Step 1
Hey there, microwave wizard! For those carousel microwaves, double-check that the plate is spinning like it’s ready for a dance-off. If your iOpener gets a bit stuck, it might just turn into a hot mess and overheat. Keep it moving and keep it cool!
Give your microwave a quick clean before you start—any leftover grime on the bottom might decide to hitch a ride on the iOpener, and nobody wants that!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. It's time to heat things up a bit!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on your iOpener, but don’t overdo the heat! If it gets too hot, it might burst. No need to go past 100˚C (212˚F) – your iOpener is happy at a chill temperature.
If your iOpener looks like it’s puffing up, don’t touch it! Just let it be for a while.
Still feeling a bit too warm? No problem – let it cool down a bit more before you get back at it. A well-heated iOpener should stay warm for about 10 minutes, so no rush!
Your microwave might be a bit of a diva when it comes to wattage, so adjust the time accordingly. The iOpener is ready to rock when it's just shy of too hot to handle!
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and warm.
- As you go, if the iOpener starts cooling off, just give it another quick thirty-second zap in the microwave to keep things toasty.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener will be super hot, so handle with care. Grab an oven mitt if you want to keep your fingers safe and sound.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its two flat ends—steer clear of that hot center!
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Step 4
The iOpener gets seriously hot, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Safety first, but you’ve got this!
No microwave? No problem! Simply heat up your iOpener in a pot of boiling water, and you'll be good to go.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it boiling.
- Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use some tongs to fish out the warm iOpener from the water.
- Give it a good towel dry to avoid any drips.
- And just like that, your iOpener is all warmed up and ready to go! If you need to heat it up again, just repeat these steps: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener sit in there for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop that SIM card tray out like a pro!
Step 6
- Gently slide the SIM tray out of its slot and remove it from your iPad 2.
- If you're swapping out the SIM card, just pop it out of the tray and slide in the new one.
Step 7
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen with care to avoid any accidental oopsies.
This helps keep any glass shards in check while maintaining the display's structure as you pry and lift. A little extra support goes a long way!
- If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards from going everywhere and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is snugly wrapped.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep splitting as you work, so be ready to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.
Step 8
Heads up! You might be dealing with some broken glass during this fix, so it’s a good idea to rock a pair of safety glasses. Trust us, it’s better to be safe than sorry when those tiny shards go flying!
- Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it's spread out evenly. You want a solid contact between the iPad surface and the iOpener for maximum effect.
- Now, let the iOpener work its magic! Give it about 90 seconds to heat up the area before you try to open up the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic can take a little elbow grease. Take it slow and steady, gently rocking the plastic tool back and forth to ease it in. Patience is key, but you've got this!
- Spot a tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your golden ticket.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just a peek, enough to gently pry it open a bit.
Step 10
- Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 11
- With the plastic opening tool in place, gently slide a plastic pick into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Keep the tip of the tool wedged in there while you work the pick in alongside it.
Step 12
- Gently slide the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, then use the opening pick to sneak it under the front glass. Aim for a depth of about half an inch. Take your time, no rush!
Step 13
- As you start working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to give it another heat boost, then place it along the bottom edge of your iPad.
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Step 14
This adhesive is super tough, so you might need to channel your inner superhero and use some serious muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug—just a little! While it’s all good to go this deep without causing any harm, you might end up with some sticky adhesive residue on the LCD. So, keep it cool and proceed with care!
- While the bottom edge warms up with the iOpener, start gently loosening the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, peeling back the adhesive as you go.
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Step 15
You might find it helpful to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad while peeling away the adhesive. Just keep in mind that this might be necessary depending on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been working on it.
- If the opening pick is feeling a bit clingy in the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep freeing that sticky stuff. You've got this!
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Step 16
- Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will keep the adhesive from getting sticky again!
- Give your iOpener a little reheat love, and then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You're almost there!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is securely fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Be extra careful when handling it, as improper handling could cause permanent damage to the antenna. Take it slow and steady!
- Alright, folks, it's time to tread lightly! The next few steps are a bit tricky, so let's keep our wits about us.
- You'll need to gently release the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, but be super careful not to mess with the delicate bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Stay focused and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 18
Take it easy when you're sliding that pick—don't push it all the way to the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and that's a no-go!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 19
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is hanging around that corner, and we don’t want it to get caught off guard if the adhesive gets a little too loose. Play it safe and take your time!
Just a little tip: Don’t pull the pick all the way out from beneath the front glass! Keep about 1/8" (3 mm) of it still nestled under there. Your device will thank you for it!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 20
- Alright, now that you've cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's roughly 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, right by the home button), it's time to re-insert that opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right, and watch as it releases the adhesive that’s been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
- Remember, the antenna is held down at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial because it detaches the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, your antenna stays safe and sound!
Step 21
Keep the iOpener's heating time to just a minute at a stretch, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you fire it up again.
If the adhesive has chilled out a bit too much along the bottom edge, just give the iOpener another little heat-up to cozy up that adhesive where you're working. Keep it warm and toasty for a smooth repair!
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad, making sure to pull the opening pick out just enough to clear the home button. Once you're past that button, reinsert the pick to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) and keep on going like a pro!
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Step 22
Hey there! For those iPad 4 models, be sure to gently insert the pick no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this area. This way, you'll keep that precious home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep peeling away that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
- And don’t forget to leave that opening pick snugly under the front glass by the home button. It’s your trusty sidekick!
Step 23
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up and then place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and cozy.
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Step 24
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, no worries! Just swap the iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If it's feeling a bit too cool, give it another heat-up!
- Start by sliding the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, gently pulling it to work around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty thick, so you’ll need to use a bit of muscle. Just take it slow and steady—don’t rush, and keep an eye on the pick to avoid any mishaps.
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it as shown in step 9 to get it moving again.
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Step 25
If your adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a smoother ride. But if it’s still holding on tight, give the iOpener another heat-up and pop it back on the left edge while you get to work.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and smoothly slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 26
Hey there! The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you're sliding that trusty pick, make sure to stop when you're around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom. Keep it cool and steady!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to peel away the adhesive. Be careful here – the adhesive is thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire side. Keep the pick shallow (no more than 10 mm or 1/2 inch deep) to avoid damaging the digitizer. Take it slow, you've got this!
Step 27
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom edge of the iPad. Take it slow and steady to avoid slicing through this little guy.
- Carefully slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 28
It seems like some of the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might have decided to play a game of hide and seek! If that's the case, don't worry—just grab a pick and gently slide it under the stubborn edge where the front glass is still holding on. Give that adhesive a little 'snip snip' to free it up!
- Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Then, use your fingers to hold it in place—you're on your way!
Step 29
Watch out for any stubborn sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that could be keeping the front panel snug as a bug.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It's like giving your iPad a little dance!
- When you're putting everything back together, don't forget to pamper that LCD! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.
Step 30
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD onto the rear case. Keep them safe!
Step 31
- Gently lift the LCD from the long edge near the volume buttons and swivel it out of the rear case.
- Carefully lay the LCD on the front panel, just like you see in the second image.
Step 32
Make sure you're gently lifting the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. Keep it cool and steady!
The retaining flaps are marked in a cheerful red in the second picture.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and carefully flip them up.
Step 33
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.
Step 34
- Gently ease that digitizer ribbon cable out of its sockets on the logic board. It's like pulling out a tricky but manageable plug—no force needed, just a steady hand.
Step 35
Handle the LCD with care as you lift it—don’t try to yank it off since its cable is still holding on while you gently swing it aside.
To detach the front panel assembly, gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some space and make it easier for you.
- Carefully lift the LCD from its long edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable, then gently flip it back toward the rear case—think of it like closing a book.
- Keep holding the LCD up as you slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out so you don’t catch the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
- Once free, place the LCD back into the body to keep it safe while you work.
Step 36
To get inside the iPad, carefully flip the LCD screen out from the case so we can start working on the good stuff.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge near the volume buttons, like you're flipping a page of your favorite book—slow and steady.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft surface. A cloth underneath will keep it scratch-free, ready for the next step.
Step 37
Avoid yanking the connector upwards when you're disconnecting it from its socket. Gentle does it!
- Gently place the LCD panel beside the back cover.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully flip the display data cable lock up.
- Slide the display data cable right out from its connector.
Step 38
- Gently pop that LCD assembly off the rear panel assembly and set it aside carefully. It's like peeling a sticker—smooth and steady.
Step 39
- If there's a piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable, grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry it off.
- Next, take that same tool and carefully lift the dock connector cable's connector away from its cozy spot on the logic board.
- Now, it's time to peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel like a pro!
Step 40
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board, like you're carefully popping off a tiny lid.
Step 41
Make sure you're gently prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not on the socket itself. You got this!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable's ZIF socket to flip it up.
- Carefully peel the headphone jack and front camera cable away from the rear case.
Step 42
- Gently wiggle the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 43
Avoid pulling the cable straight up when disconnecting it. Gently detach it without lifting to prevent any damage.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge up the little retainer that's holding the upper component board cable connector snugly in its place on the logic board.
- Now, give that connector a gentle tug and watch it slide away from its cozy socket on the logic board.
Step 44
- Unscrew the three 2 mm Phillips screws holding the SIM card slot in place on the back panel.
Step 45
- Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack in place at the top edge of the rear panel. Keep these screws safe—they're small but mighty!
Step 46
- Grab a trusty plastic opening tool and gently wiggle it to coax the headphone jack out of its snug spot in the top of the rear panel.
- Carefully peel back the headphone jack/SIM slot assembly from the top edge of the communications board, like unwrapping a present!
Step 47
- Start by unscrewing those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic board bracket snug against the rear case, right next to the digitizer cable socket. You've got this!
- Once those screws are out, gently lift the logic board bracket away from the rear case. Easy peasy!
Step 48
- Carefully unscrew the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the logic and communications boards snug against the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 49
- Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and lift it up gently to break free from the adhesive holding it to the back case.
Step 50
Hold your horses! Don't go trying to yank it off just yet. We've still got three antenna cables hanging on for dear life.
- Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and tilt it slightly toward the battery.
Step 51
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently disconnect both antenna connectors from their sockets on the communications board. Take it slow and steady—you've got this!
Step 52
- Gently unplug the Wi-Fi antenna connector from its spot on the logic board to keep things cool and disconnected.
Step 53
- Carefully lift out the iPad 2’s logic board to get things moving.
Step 54
Don't overdo it with the heat on the iOpener! Let it cool for at least two minutes before reheating, and keep the microwave time to just one minute max. A little patience goes a long way!
If the iOpener cools down too much between uses, just pop it back in for another minute to get it nice and toasty again.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a minute to get it nice and toasty.
- Once it's warm, place the iOpener on the back of your iPad, just to the right of center (the side opposite the rear-facing camera). Let it chill there for 90 seconds to help loosen up that stubborn battery adhesive.
- Next, shift the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and give it another 90 seconds to work its magic.
- Finally, move the iOpener to the left edge (the side with the rear-facing camera) of the back of your iPad and let it sit for another 90 seconds. You're doing great!
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Step 55
If the adhesive is being stubborn, give the rear panel another warm-up and give it another go.
- Let's kick things off with the battery cell that's nearest to the dock connector! Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it under the edge of the battery that’s closest to the logic board void. We just need to create a little wiggle room for the flat end of our spudger to fit in.
- Now, take that spudger and glide it along the two long sides of each battery cell. We want to completely detach them from the adhesive that's holding them snugly against the rear case. You're doing great!
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Step 56
Handle the battery connector board with care—no extreme bending, please! And when you're prying around that little post peeking out from the aluminum rear case, be extra gentle. You've got this!
- Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the battery connector board to gently lift it away from the rear panel before you start prying up the middle battery cell.
Step 57
- Now, grab your spudger and carefully work your way around the long sides of the middle battery cell to loosen the adhesive. Take it slow, you've got this!
- Repeat the same steps for the last battery cell, and if the case is being stubborn, give it a quick reheat to make everything cooperate.
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Step 58
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps backward and check out our iPad 2 GSM Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel right where it belongs. If it gets tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair with us!
