iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Time to swap out that battery! If yours is looking a little puffy, make sure you handle it carefully. Safety first, always. And hey, if you need a hand, feel free to schedule a repair.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate is cruising smoothly! If your iOpener gets jammed up, it could get too hot and burn.
Before you get started, give your microwave a quick clean—nobody wants mystery gunk sticking to the iOpener during the repair!
- Set your iOpener right in the middle of the microwave—front and center, like it’s ready for its big moment.
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Step 2
Remember, the iOpener likes to stay cool. Don't overheat it or it might get a little too 'puffed up' for its own good. Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it's about to pop, steer clear. Safety first!
Still too hot to handle? Let it chill for a bit before you heat it up again. A properly warmed-up iOpener can keep working its magic for about 10 minutes.
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need to tweak the heating time a bit. You'll know the iOpener is good to go when it feels just a smidge too hot to touch!
- Give that iOpener a quick thirty-second spin in the microwave to get it nice and toasty.
- As you tackle this repair, remember to pop the iOpener back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Keep it warm and ready to help!
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener will be super hot, so handle it with care. If you want, pop on an oven mitt to keep your fingers safe and sound.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot middle. Let's keep those fingers safe and sound!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener heats up quite a bit, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe and sound.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by carefully soaking it in boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
- Heat that water until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat.
- Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s enjoying a full soak!
- Using tongs (safety first!), lift the warm iOpener out of the water.
- Give it a good towel dry; we want it to be nice and cozy.
- And voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If you ever need to warm it up again, just repeat the boiling water dance for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and maintain the display's strength while you're gently prying and lifting it up.
- Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards in check and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass before you dive in.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up snug.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so you might need to carefully scoop out pieces with a metal prying tool.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be dealing with shattered glass here, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing trouble.
- Place the iOpener nice and flat along the right side of your iPad, making sure it’s cozied up against the surface for maximum effect.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds before you start working on opening up that front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Just keep it cool and steady, gently wiggle the tool back and forth until it slides in. Patience is your sidekick here!
- Notice that there's a little gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, around 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let's make the most of this tiny opening!
- Position your tool with the mute button in sight. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge the very tip in there to widen the gap a bit.
Step 8
- Make sure you tuck that tool right where it needs to be—snug between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- With your plastic opening tool cozily hanging out between the front glass and the plastic bezel, invite a plastic opening pick to the party. Slide it right into the gap, snug up next to your tool—gentle moves only!
Step 10
- Slide the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, then gently wiggle the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. Slow and steady wins the race!
Step 11
- As you're working your magic on the right side adhesive, pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a quick heat-up, then set it down on the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 12
The adhesive is pretty tough, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, just ease it back a bit. Digging in this far won’t hurt anything, but it might give your LCD a sticky adhesive mustache!
- While the bottom edge is warming up with your iOpener, start working your magic on the right edge of the iPad—let’s loosen up that adhesive!
- Gently slide your opening pick down the side, freeing up the sticky stuff as you move along. Nice and easy, almost like spreading butter on toast!
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Step 13
You might need to shift the heated iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad as you work through loosening the adhesive. How long the iPad has had to cool down while you’re working will decide if this move is necessary.
- If your opening pick gets caught in the sticky stuff, just 'roll' it gently along the iPad’s edge to keep peeling that adhesive like a pro.
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Step 14
- Before you slide out that first pick from the bottom corner, sneak a second pick under the right side of the front glass—this keeps that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.
- Give your iOpener a good reheat, then park it at the top edge of your iPad to loosen things up there.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is fastened along the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case using screws and a cable. Because of how this antenna is positioned, take your time and handle it gently to avoid any accidental damage that could be permanent.
- Heads up! The upcoming steps need some serious gentle handling.
- You’ll need to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, making sure not to disturb the fragile connections attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.
Step 16
Careful not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner—going too far could mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and nobody wants that!
- Glide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad and let that stubborn adhesive know it’s time to move out.
Step 17
Slide the opening pick gently along the bottom right edge of the front panel—watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna lurking near the corner! It’s easy to accidentally snip it if you’re not careful with the adhesive, so take your time and keep it smooth.
Keep the pick tucked just a bit under the front glass—about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip should still be peeking in. No need to fully yank it out; we're just giving it a little wiggle room!
- Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to peel away the adhesive that's holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place. You're doing great!
Step 18
- Once you've made your way past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge or snug next to the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently glide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive that's holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. You got this!
- Keep in mind, the antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is super important because it separates the antenna from the front panel, making sure it stays safe and sound when you lift that panel off.
Step 19
Keep your iOpener chill — heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a solid two-minute break before warming it up again.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, just give your iOpener a quick reheat to bring some warmth back to the adhesive where you're working. You've got this!
- Keep on peeling back that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to dance around the home button, and once you're past that little guy, pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You've got this!
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Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, keep your pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this spot—going further could mess with the home button ribbon cable. Keep it chill and take your time!
- Gently work your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, slowly peeling away the adhesive. Take your time here—no need to rush!
- Once you've made some progress, keep that opening pick in place under the front glass near the home button. It'll help keep things from sticking back together as you go.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener back in the microwave to get it nice and warm, then lay it along the left edge of your iPad. You're giving the adhesive there a little heat spa so it loosens up for the next step!
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Step 22
If your adhesive has gone a little too cool for comfort, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on going! And if that iOpener isn’t quite warm enough, give it a quick reheat and you're back in business.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little nudge to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive in this area is pretty thick, so it might take a bit of muscle. Go slow and steady to avoid any slips that could harm yourself or the iPad.
- If the pick seems to get stuck in the adhesive, try 'rolling' it like shown in step 9 to break through.
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Step 23
If your adhesive is feeling warm and cozy, go ahead and remove the iOpener from the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still stickier than a candy shop floor, just reheat that iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work your magic.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick smoothly around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hiding about 2 inches (50 mm) up from the bottom of the iPad. So, when you're sliding that pick, just stop when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom – you're doing great!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive. Keep in mind that this area is delicate because of the digitizer running along the left side, so don't go too deep—about 1/2 inch (10 mm) max to avoid any accidental damage. Slow and steady wins the race here!
Step 25
Hey there! Just a friendly heads-up: the bottom of the digitizer cable is hanging out only about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and be gentle, so we don’t accidentally snip this little guy!
- With the opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work it along the bottom left corner to loosen the adhesive. Take your time – you got this!
Step 26
Some of the adhesive around the edge of the iPad might have decided to stick back down. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the glass is still holding tight and carefully slice through the adhesive.
- Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it's lifted, use your fingers to hold onto it like you're about to unveil a surprise!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick to slice through any stubborn glue that's keeping the front panel in place. You've got this!
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners—like you’re opening a fancy book—and gently swing the front glass away from the rest of the device.
- When putting everything back together, wipe down the LCD with a microfiber cloth and blast away any dust with compressed air for a spotless finish.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD onto the back case—time to free that screen!
Step 29
Handle that LCD with care! Remember, it's not a wrestling match—don't try to yank it out of the iPad. Just gently rotate it, and the display data cable will stay connected like a loyal sidekick.
The front panel ribbon cables are hiding out underneath the LCD. To reach them, gently flip the LCD over for a quick peek—just enough to move it aside and get access.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge nearest the volume buttons and carefully flip it out from the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down onto the front panel.
Step 30
Make sure you're gently lifting those hinged retaining flaps and not the sockets themselves. You've got this!
Check out the second picture to see the retaining flaps marked in red.
- Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift up the retaining flaps on those two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You've got this!
Step 31
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently work the edge under the digitizer cable, freeing it from the shields on the logic board. A little patience here goes a long way!
- Now, take a careful tug on the digitizer cable, easing it off the adhesive that’s been keeping it snug against the side of the rear case. Nice and steady!
Step 32
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its two sockets on the logic board—no wiggle dance needed!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care as you lift it—don't try to yank it off since its cable is still hanging on while you flip it over.
To take off the front panel assembly, you'll need to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little maneuvering of the LCD will help create some much-needed space.
- Gently lift the LCD from the long edge that's furthest from the digitizer cable, and flip it over toward the back—imagine you're closing a book, but with extra style.
- While you're holding up the LCD, carefully slide the front panel away from your iPad. Keep an eye out for the digitizer cable—don't let it catch on the rear case or LCD.
- Once you've got it free, nestle the LCD back into the body to keep it safe and sound until you're ready for the next step.
Step 34
To get into the iPad's inner workings, we first need to gently pop the LCD out of its cozy case.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. It’s a good idea to set it on a soft cloth to keep it scratch-free.
Step 35
Make sure to gently disconnect the connector without pulling it upwards from its socket. You've got this!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge that display data cable lock upwards. It's like giving it a little lift-off!
- Now, with a gentle tug, pull that display data cable right out of its cozy socket. You're doing great!
Step 36
- Gently lift the LCD assembly away from the rear panel. Take your time and let it come apart like two old friends saying goodbye!
Step 37
- If there's a piece of tape covering the dock connector cable, grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift it off.
- Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully lift the dock connector cable's connector out of its socket on the logic board.
- Peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel, nice and steady.
Step 38
Take care to gently lift only the connector and not the socket on the logic board, or you might accidentally give that socket a one-way ticket to the repair graveyard!
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 39
Remember to gently lift the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself! You got this!
- Take your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop up the tiny retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the headphone jack and front camera cable. It's like flipping open a secret hatch!
- Carefully peel the headphone jack and front camera cable away from the rear case. Nice and easy—no need to rush this part!
Step 40
- Gently pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight up and out from their socket on the logic board.
Step 41
When disconnecting the cable, slide it out gently instead of lifting upward—your device will thank you!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pop up the retainer that's holding the control board cable connector in place on the logic board. Easy does it!
- Now, slide the connector out of its socket on the logic board—smooth moves only!
Step 42
- Unscrew those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case by the digitizer cable socket. You’ve got this!
- Now, gently lift the logic board bracket off the rear case. It should come off with a little wiggle. Take it easy, we’re almost there!
Step 43
- Now, grab your trusty screwdriver and remove the last three 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding that logic board snugly in the rear case. Almost there!
Step 44
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool underneath the logic board and give it a little lift to break the adhesive bond with the rear case. You've got this!
Step 45
Hold up! Don't yank it off just yet—there's an antenna cable still keeping it company.
- Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and give it a little tilt toward the battery. Take it slow and keep it steady—no wild moves here!
Step 46
- Gently pop the Wi-Fi antenna connector off its spot on the logic board using the corner of your trusty plastic opening tool. It’s like unplugging a tiny headphone jack—easy does it!
- Lift the logic board out of your iPad 2 with care. You’re almost there, tech hero!
Step 47
Be cautious not to overheat the iOpener while working through the repair. Give it at least two minutes to cool down before reheating, and remember—never microwave it for more than a minute at a time.
If your iOpener starts feeling a bit chilly between rounds, give it another minute in the microwave to keep things toasty.
- Pop your iOpener into the microwave for a minute to get it nice and warm.
- Lay that toasty iOpener on the back of your iPad, just to the right of the center (the side without the rear camera). Give it 90 seconds to work its magic and loosen up the battery adhesive.
- Next, slide the iOpener over to the very center of the iPad’s back and let it chill there for another 90 seconds.
- Finally, shift the iOpener to the left edge of the back (where the rear camera lives) and let it hang out for one last 90-second round.
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Step 48
If the adhesive is putting up a real fight, give that rear panel another warm-up and give it another go!
- Begin with the battery cell nearest the dock connector. Slide a plastic opening tool gently under the edge of the battery closest to the logic board space to create enough wiggle room for the flat end of a spudger.
- Carefully glide the flat end of a spudger along both long sides of each battery cell to fully detach them from the adhesive holding them to the back case.
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Step 49
Go easy on bending the battery connector board—no gymnastics needed! Pay extra attention when prying near the screw post on the aluminum rear case to keep everything in top shape.
- Before you pry up that middle battery cell, gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the battery connector board away from the rear panel. Take it easy and keep it smooth!
Step 50
- Now grab your trusty spudger and gently work along the long sides of that middle battery cell to break the adhesive bond. You're doing great!
- Once you've tackled the middle cell, repeat the same process for the last battery cell. If things feel a bit stubborn, don’t hesitate to give the case a little heat boost!
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Step 51
- Ready to put your device back together? Just retrace your steps, and don't forget to check out our guide for using those iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips to secure the front panel. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.
