iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out a busted antenna and get your device back in action.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Check that the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener gets jammed, it might overheat and cause damage. Stay cool, but keep it moving!
Before you get started, give your microwave a quick clean! Any leftover grime on the bottom could hitch a ride on your iOpener, and nobody wants that.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on your iOpener — don’t let it get too toasty! Heating it past 100˚C (212˚F) might cause it to pop like a balloon.
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, hands off! Let it be.
If the middle is still too hot to handle, no rush—keep using it and let it cool down a bit before heating again. When warmed just right, it’ll stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
The time needed may vary depending on the power of your microwave. The iOpener is ready when it’s just about too hot to touch, so be careful, but it should never be unbearable to handle.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work, if the iOpener starts cooling off, just give it another 30 seconds in the microwave to keep things warm and sticky.
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Step 3
The iOpener can get pretty hot, so make sure you're handling it with care. Grab an oven mitt if you need to protect your hands.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends. This way, you can avoid touching the hot center. Safety first, as always!
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Step 4
The iOpener gets pretty hot, so make sure to only grab it by the end tabs. Handle with care!
Don't have a microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener by placing it in some boiling water. You're on the right track!
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Crank up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil, then switch off the burner.
- Gently place your iOpener into the steamy water for about 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s getting all the love by being fully submerged.
- Using tongs (safety first, my friend!), carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water.
- Give it a good towel-drying to make sure it’s nice and dry.
- Voila! Your iOpener is all set to rock and roll! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the boiling bath for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers protected, and remember to treat that LCD screen with care – it's delicate, just like a snowflake!
This will help trap any glass pieces and keep things sturdy while you're carefully prying and lifting the display. Nice and secure!
- If your display glass is cracked, tape it up to keep the shards in check and avoid any ouchies while you work.
- Cover the screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the whole front is safely wrapped.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just know that broken glass tends to keep cracking, so you might need a metal prying tool to carefully lift out the pieces. If it gets too tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you’ll be handling some broken glass here, it’s a smart move to rock some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing trouble.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Take your time, wiggle that tool back and forth gently, and remember: patience is your secret weapon!
- Look closely, and you'll notice a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let's take advantage of this little flaw!
- Get ready to align your trusty tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just the very tip will do—enough to give that crack a little wiggle!
Step 8
- Ensure the tool is placed just right—sneak it in between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 9
- With your plastic opening tool cozily chilling between the front glass and the plastic bezel, grab a plastic pick and slide it into the gap right next to your trusty tool buddy. Smooth moves—keep it steady and work that groove!
Step 10
- Grab that plastic opening tool—gently slide the pick a bit further under the front glass until it's about half an inch deep. Take your time and keep things chill!
Step 11
- As you're working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give that iOpener another round of heat and pop it back onto the bottom edge of your device.
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Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some muscle! Just take it slow and steady.
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking out beneath the front glass, just ease it back a bit. Going too deep won't hurt anything, but it might leave your LCD looking like it just wrestled with a sticky glue monster.
- While the iOpener is working its magic on the bottom edge, get ready to tackle the right edge of your iPad.
- Grab your opening pick and slide it smoothly along the right side, breaking up the sticky adhesive as you go. Keep it steady—you're doing great!
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might find it helpful to slide the warmed iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little trick can make a difference depending on how cool the iPad has gotten while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick decides to play hide and seek in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep freeing that sticky stuff. You've got this!
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Step 14
- Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from playing tricks and re-sticking itself.
- Give your iOpener a little extra love by re-heating it, then place it at the top edge of the iPad to get things warmed up.
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with some screws and a cable. Since the antenna is a bit particular about its position, it's super important to take your time and handle it gently. A little care goes a long way in avoiding any mishaps that could lead to some not-so-fun damage to the antenna!
- Heads up! The steps coming up need you to be extra careful.
- You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.
Step 16
Hey there! Just a heads up: avoid sliding the pick past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don't want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive chillin' there.
Step 17
As you slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep it cool and steady—there’s a Wi-Fi antenna hanging out near the corner, and it’s pretty sensitive. Take your time releasing that adhesive to avoid any accidental antenna snips!
Keep the pick gently wedged under the front glass—don’t pull it all the way out! Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip tucked underneath to keep things steady.
- Glide your opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad like you're slicing through butter—this will loosen up the adhesive above the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Alright, folks! Once you've danced past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), it's time to re-insert that opening pick all the way in.
- Now, slide that pick to the right and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass gives up the fight.
- Keep in mind, the antenna is snugly attached to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is all about gently detaching the antenna from the front panel, making sure it stays safe and sound when you lift off the panel.
Step 19
Keep that iOpener cool, my friend! Limit the heating time to a minute each go and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you crank up the heat again. Your device will thank you!
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just give the iOpener another quick warm-up to soften the glue right where you’re working.
- Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently tug on the opening pick, making sure it goes around the home button. Once you're past that little button, slide the pick in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) and you'll be all set!
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Step 20
Hey there! For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in this area, but keep it to just about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep sliding that adhesive-release magic along the entire bottom edge of your iPad.
- Let the opening pick chill underneath the front glass, right by the home button.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick heat-up session, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that spot, making your repair journey just a bit smoother!
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Step 22
If the adhesive feels too chilly to work with, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. And if the iOpener itself has cooled off too much, give it a quick warm-up to get things moving again.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is super sticky, so you might need to apply some solid force. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scratches on you or your iPad.
- If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the glue, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, feel free to set the iOpener aside while you tackle the next part. If it’s still putting up a sticky fight, just reheat the iOpener and let it hang out on the left edge as you continue.
- Keep on peeling away that adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and then gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
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Step 24
Hey there, tech wizard! Just a heads-up: the digitizer cable is hiding about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. Once you slide that pick in, stop when you reach around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom. You're doing great—keep it steady!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the iPad’s left edge to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running the whole length. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Heads up! The digitizer cable hangs out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom edge of your iPad. Take it slow and steady here—no need for a cable casualty!
- Keep your opening pick right under the iPad's bottom edge and gently work your way across the left corner to break the adhesive seal. Easy does it!
Step 26
If some of the adhesive around the edge of the iPad has reattached itself, no worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge where the front glass is still holding on. Give the adhesive a little 'cut' and you're good to go!
- Slip one of your trusty opening picks under the bottom right corner of the iPad, give it a gentle lift, and grab hold with your fingers. You’re making progress—keep it up!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky glue still hanging on, and grab an opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive still keeping that front panel stuck down.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the device.
- When you're putting it all back together, take a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints on the LCD before you pop the glass back into place.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the rear case. You're almost there!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care while moving it—don’t try to take it off the iPad just yet since its display data cable stays hooked up as you gently flip it over.
The front panel ribbon cables hang out just beneath the LCD. To get to them, you’ll need to gently flip the LCD over and move it aside for a moment.
- Gently lift up the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—like you’re turning the page of your favorite comic book.
- Lay the LCD face down on the front panel for a quick power nap before moving on.
Step 30
Make sure you're gently lifting the hinged retaining flaps and not messing with the sockets themselves. A little nudge goes a long way!
Take a look at the second image to spot the retaining flaps — they're marked in red for your convenience.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and flip them up with care.
Step 31
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case.
Step 32
- Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two cozy sockets on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care; it's a delicate dance! Don't try to take it off the iPad just yet—its cable likes to stay connected while you give it a little twist.
To pop out the front panel assembly, gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. You'll need to shift the LCD a bit to make some wiggle room.
- Carefully lift the LCD from its long edge opposite the digitizer cable and gently flip it back toward the rear case, kind of like closing a book.
- While holding the LCD up, slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out to avoid catching the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
- Place the LCD back into the body to keep it safe while you work.
Step 34
Time to get hands-on with your iPad! Gently lift and flip the LCD screen away from the case so you can access the inside. Take it slow and keep those cables safe!
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge nearest the volume buttons and gently swing it open like you’re turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean spot—pro tip: lay it on a soft cloth to keep those screen scratches at bay.
Step 35
When disconnecting the connector, lift it gently sideways—no upward yanking! Treat it like it's the VIP of connectors.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently flip the display data cable lock upwards.
- Carefully wiggle the display data cable free from its socket.
Step 36
- Gently separate the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 37
- If there's a piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable, grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift it off. You're doing great!
- Next, take your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully work it under the dock connector cable's connector to pop it out from the logic board. Nice and easy!
- Now, let's peel that dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel. You're almost there!
Step 38
Take care to gently pry just the connector, avoiding the logic board socket—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some socket drama.
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its spot on the logic board. Take your time and keep things steady—easy does it!
Step 39
Remember, you're lifting the retaining flap upwards, not the socket. Easy does it!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket to lift it up.
- Carefully peel the headphone jack and front camera cable away from the rear case.
Step 40
- Gently tug the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out from its cozy home on the logic board. You're doing great!
Step 41
Remember, when disconnecting the cable, keep it level and don't lift it up!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retainer to lift it up and free the control board cable connector from its spot on the logic board.
- Carefully pull the connector straight out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 42
- First things first, grab your trusty screwdriver and remove those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket snugly against the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket. You've got this!
- Now that the screws are out of the way, gently lift that logic board bracket off the rear case. You're making excellent progress!
Step 43
- Unscrew the last three 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the logic board snug against the rear case. You've got this!
Step 44
- Take the edge of your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully lift the logic board away from the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear case. Go slow and steady—no need to rush this move!
Step 45
Hold up! Before you fully lift it off, remember there’s still an antenna cable hanging on. Don’t yank—just take it easy for now.
- Gently pop the logic board out from the back casing and give it a little tilt towards the battery as if you're encouraging it to rise and shine!
Step 46
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently pry up the Wi-Fi antenna connector from its snug spot on the logic board. Be careful, it’s not a wrestling match!
- Now, carefully lift out the logic board from your iPad 2 like you're unveiling a secret treasure. Nice and steady!
Step 47
- Gently move those dock connector and speaker cables aside, and carefully peel off the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna cable from the adhesive that's holding it to the rear case. You’ve got this—just take it slow and steady.
Step 48
- Unscrew the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna from the rear case by removing these screws:
- Two 1.7 mm Phillips screws
- Two 2.0 mm Phillips screws
Step 49
- Gently peel the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna away from the speaker enclosure and take it out of the iPad 2.
