iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Display Data Cable Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 35 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out a busted display data cable and get your screen back in action.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate can spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets a little too cozy and gets stuck, it might just overheat and cause a little burn party.
Give your microwave a quick clean first — any leftover gunk lurking at the bottom might just stick to the iOpener and make things messy.
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of your microwave.
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Step 2
Be careful not to heat up the iOpener too much during your repair session. If it gets too hot, it might just explode, and nobody wants that. Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) and you're good to go.
If the iOpener starts looking a little puffed up, don’t touch it. It's telling you, 'I'm too hot to handle!'
If the iOpener is still too toasty to touch in the middle, hang tight! Let it cool down a bit before reheating. A perfectly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes, giving you just enough time to get the job done.
Microwave power levels vary, so your heating time might shift a bit. You'll know the iOpener is ready when it's just a smidge too hot to comfortably hold.
- Pop your iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it warmed up.
- If it cools off while you’re working, just give it another thirty-second spin in the microwave to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 3
The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care! A trusty oven mitt might just be your best friend here.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You've got this!
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Step 4
The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Stay safe and keep those fingers happy!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by dunking it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.
- Drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to carefully fish the iOpener out of the water.
- Give it a good dry-off with a towel.
- Your iOpener is now all warmed up and ready to go! Need it hotter? Just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Don't forget to rock those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it's more delicate than it looks!
This helps keep those sneaky glass shards from making a break for it and gives the display some extra muscle when you’re prying and lifting.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep any further shards from flying around and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass first.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up like a present.
- Try to stick to the rest of the steps as closely as possible. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you go, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you'll be handling some broken glass here, we definitely recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing any trouble.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug against the surface for maximum effect.
- Let the iOpener chill out there for about 90 seconds before you try to pop the front panel—patience is key!
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a little muscle, but don't sweat it! Take your time, gently wiggle the tool back and forth, and you'll get through—patience is your best friend here.
- Check out the upper right corner of your iPad—there’s a little weak spot in the adhesive ring, about 2 inches (5 cm) down from the top. We're going to use that to our advantage.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Carefully slide just the tip of your plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. You only need to get the very end in—just enough to start opening up that crack.
Step 8
- Ensure that you position the tool just right—snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right next to it in that gap. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Gently take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad's grasp and slide the opening pick deeper under the front glass, aiming for about half an inch of depth. Keep it cool and steady, you're doing great!
Step 11
- As you gently work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener a little reheat love and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Step 12
This adhesive is tough stuff—expect to use some serious muscle. Take your time and stay cool!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a bit. Using the pick this deep won’t harm anything, but it might leave some sticky adhesive on the LCD.
- While the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, freeing the adhesive as you move along.
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Step 13
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. How long the iPad has cooled off while you were working will decide if this move is needed.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff and make your life easier.
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Step 14
- Before you pop that first pick out from the bottom corner, slide a second pick under the right side of your iPad's glass—this little buddy keeps the sticky stuff from sneaking back together.
- Warm up your iOpener again, then set it up on the top edge to keep the heat party going.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the antenna is positioned just so, take extra care during this step—one wrong move could mean permanent antenna damage, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Heads up! The next steps call for some serious focus.
- You’ll be peeling the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel—just be gentle and take it slow so you don’t mess with those tiny antenna connections at the bottom of your iPad. Stick with it and follow along carefully!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don't slide that pick too far into the bottom right corner. We wouldn't want you to accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it safe and sound!
- Glide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to gently free up the sticky adhesive hanging out there.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out for the Wi-Fi antenna hiding near the corner! If the adhesive is released the wrong way, it could get snipped. So take it easy and be smooth with your moves!
Keep the pick wedged just a tiny bit under the front glass—don't pull it all the way out. Aim to leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still holding on tight under the glass.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow and steady!
Step 18
- Once you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3 inches from the right edge, or right next to the home button), slide the opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently move that pick to the right to set free the adhesive that's been holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- Remember, the antenna is connected to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial as it detaches the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift off the panel, the antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 19
Give the iOpener a little break! Don’t heat it for more than a minute at a time, and make sure to wait at least two minutes before giving it another go.
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much along the bottom edge, just give the iOpener another warm-up dance to get that adhesive cozy again where you're working.
- Keep easing the adhesive away from the bottom edge of the iPad. Slide the opening pick out just enough to get around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared that button.
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Step 20
For those working with iPad 4 models, gently insert the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this spot. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep peeling the adhesive carefully along the entire bottom edge of your iPad.
- Slip the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then lay it over the left edge of your iPad to soften up that stubborn adhesive. Let it chill there for a bit so the next step goes smooth!
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Step 22
If the adhesive has lost its warmth, simply swap the iOpener to the top edge and keep the momentum going. If the iOpener is feeling a bit chilly, give it another round of heat.
- Glide your opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little wiggle to sneak past the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is extra beefy, so you’ll need some muscle. Take it slow and steady—no rush! Keep your fingers safe and your iPad happy.
- If your pick feels like it's stuck in a glue trap, try rolling it like a mini pizza dough (see step 9 for the pro move).
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Step 23
If the adhesive is warm enough, go ahead and remove the iOpener from the iPad for easier access. But if it’s still sticking strong, no worries—just reheat the iOpener and place it along the left edge while you work your magic.
- Keep peeling the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable sits about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom edge of your iPad. When sliding the pick, ease off once you reach roughly 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to break through the adhesive. The glue here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about half an inch (10 mm)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Heads up! The digitizer cable hangs out just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad's bottom edge. Take it slow and steady here—no need for a cable casualty!
- With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive free at the bottom left corner. You're doing great!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the iPad edges decides to play sticky again. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding tight, and carefully “cut” through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab an opening pick and gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad, then hold it steady with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive still clinging on! Grab your opening pick and slice through any sneaky glue that's trying to keep that front panel locked down.
- Grip the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently swing the front glass open like the cover of your favorite book.
- When you're putting things back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a good clean—dust and fingerprints are not invited to this party!
Step 28
- Take a moment to find those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the LCD nestled in the rear case. Once you've spotted them, go ahead and remove each one with care.
Step 29
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and swing it out of the rear case like you're opening a door.
- Carefully place the LCD down on the front panel just like you see in the second picture. You've got this!
Step 30
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the metal clip that’s holding the display data cable in place on the logic board, then carefully flip it up to release the cable.
Step 31
Careful! Don’t yank the display data cable connector straight up when unplugging it—gentle and steady wins the race.
- Gently wiggle and pull the display data cable out of its cozy home on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 32
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from your iPad 2, and let’s get this show on the road!
Step 33
- Peel off that little strip of black tape that's hanging out over the display data cable connector on your LCD. It's not doing any favors—time to let it go!
Step 34
- Gently use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the metal retaining clip on the connector for the display data cable.
Step 35
Be gentle with the display data cable—don't yank it upward when disconnecting, or the socket may bite the dust!
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and check out our iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to get that front panel secured like a pro. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair with us!
