iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Front Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 38 Steps
Heads up! Breaking out the magic tools can sometimes mean a few tiny setbacks happen along the way, but don’t let it bum you out. Every bump is just a stepping stone to awesome repair vibes. If you’re feeling stuck or the screws start making a getaway attempt, you can always schedule a repair and we’ll get everything back on track for you!
Ready to tackle that pesky front-facing camera problem? Let this guide be your cheerful companion on the journey to swap it out. If you encounter any hiccups, remember you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle it.
Step 1
Before diving in, give your microwave a quick wipe-down. Any leftover crud might hitch a ride on the iOpener! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep your cool! Don’t overheat the iOpener during your repair session—overheating can make things go pop! Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
Hands off if your iOpener looks puffier than usual!
If it’s still too warm in the middle for a comfortable hold, just keep using it while it cools. Ideally, your nicely heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Give that iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds.
– As you work your magic on the repair, keep that iOpener cozy by reheating it in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to chill out.
Tools Used
Step 3
Caution: The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might just be your new best friend.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil and then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and enjoying the warmth.
– Using tongs (because we want to keep those fingers safe), fish out the heated iOpener from the water.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry to make sure it’s all set.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is ready to rock! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering further and avoid any accidental ouchies during your repair by applying some tape.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over the iPad’s display until the entire face is nicely covered.
– Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as outlined. Just a heads up, once the glass starts cracking, it might keep on doing its thing while you work. You may need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty, keep those peepers safe! We highly recommend rocking some safety glasses to shield yourself from any sneaky glass shards that might try to crash the party.
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it makes solid contact with the surface. Let’s get that warmth working its magic!
– Give the bag a little time to work its wonders on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and start opening the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting that trusty opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a little elbow grease. No worries—just take your time and gently wiggle the tool back and forth. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Notice that little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that tiny weakness!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 8
– Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!
Step 9
– With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right alongside the tool. You’re on the right track!
Step 10
– Gently take that plastic opening tool out of the iPad and ease the pick a bit deeper under the front glass until it’s about half an inch in there. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 11
– As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener a little reheat love and then place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 12
This adhesive is a real tough cookie, so it might take a bit of muscle to get through it! Just take it slow and steady. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
If you notice the edge of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, ease it back a bit. Getting the pick this far in won’t cause any harm, but it might leave some sticky residue on the LCD. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let’s kick things off by gently peeling back the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
– Carefully glide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, letting it do its magic and release that adhesive as you go.
Tools Used
Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. This all depends on how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy in the adhesive, just give it a gentle ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to help it break free and keep that adhesive from holding on too tight.
Tools Used
Step 14
– Before you dive in and pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Given the way the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it’s super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to it. So, let’s keep it safe and sound!
– Alright, folks, it’s time to tread carefully! We’re about to tackle some delicate work.
– You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super careful not to harm the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little too much love, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is lurking nearby. Be careful—if you accidentally loosen the adhesive the wrong way, it could get snipped!
Just a friendly tip: don’t yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Give it a gentle tug so that about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip stays snugly tucked under there.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, as you free up the adhesive that’s hugging the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 18
– Once you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or just by the home button), slide that opening pick right back in to its full depth.
– Now, give that pick a gentle nudge to the right, and watch as it releases the adhesive that’s been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snugly to the front glass.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener’s heating time to a minute max, and give it a cool two-minute break before you heat it up again. Your device will thank you!
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give that iOpener a little heat-up session to warm up the adhesive in your working area. Keep it cozy!
– Keep sliding that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to make a detour around the home button, then slide it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed the home button. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 20
– Keep peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
– Slide the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 21
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with.
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going! If your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat and get back to work.
– Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
– This section has some seriously strong adhesive, so don’t be shy about using a bit of muscle. Just take your time and keep it steady to avoid any mishaps with your iPad or yourself.
– If the pick feels like it’s getting a bit too cozy with the adhesive, try giving it a little ‘roll’ like we showed you in step 9.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take that iOpener off your iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still a bit clingy, just give the iOpener another warm-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable is chilling about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you reach around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to pause that pick-sliding action!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is a bit shy here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just a friendly tip: keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’re doing great!
Step 25
Be extra careful here! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edge of your iPad might have decided to stick around a bit longer than expected. No worries! Just slide a pick under the edge where the front glass is still holding on tight and gently ‘cut’ through that adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it’s up, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the front panel in place. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before you reinstall the glass. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 28
– Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the rear case. You’ve got this!
Step 29
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away under the LCD. To get to them, just gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case, just like you’re turning a page in your favorite book.
– Carefully place the LCD face down on the front panel.
Step 30
Just a friendly reminder: make sure you’re gently lifting the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket. You’ve got this!
– Slide that plastic opening tool under the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable, wiggling it a bit to loosen it from the adhesive that’s sticking it to the rear panel. Easy peasy!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board. Nice and smooth!
Step 31
– Unscrew those two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack in place on the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Grab a plastic opening tool and gently work the edge under the tape and adhesive holding the headphone jack and front camera cables to the rear panel. You’ve got this!
Step 33
Hold your horses! That assembly isn’t going anywhere just yet. The front camera is still having a cozy time with the rear panel.
– Gently wiggle the headphone jack away from the top edge of the iPad, like you’re giving it a little nudge to say, ‘Hey, it’s time to part ways!’
Step 34
– Gently lift the headphone jack and front camera cables to reveal the microphone connector. You’ve got this!
– Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully slide it to disconnect the microphone connector from the headphone jack and front camera cables. Easy peasy!
Step 35
– Gently peel the front camera away from the foam adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the rear panel.
– Carefully detach the headphone jack and front camera assembly from the iPad.
Step 36
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the front camera cable connector snug and secure. You’ve got this!
Step 37
– Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool to detach the front camera cable from the headphone jack cable. You’ve got this!
Step 38
– The front-facing camera is still in place and ready for action!
