iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Speaker Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 58 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out a busted speaker assembly and get your device sounding fresh again.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate can spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets jammed, it might overheat and cause a burn. Keep it moving!
Before you start, give your microwave a quick wipe-down — nobody wants any leftover gunk sticking to the iOpener and making things messy.
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it owns the place!
Tools Used
Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair – let’s not turn it into a hot mess! Overheating can lead to a dramatic burst, and we definitely don’t want that. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener starts looking a bit puffy, give it some space! It’s best not to touch it.
If the center of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
Depending on your microwave's wattage, you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. The iOpener is ready when it's just shy of too hot to handle.
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick 30 seconds to warm it up!
- As you dive into your repair adventure, keep an eye on that iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just give it another 30 seconds in the microwave to keep the heat flowing.
Tools Used
Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle with care. If your hands aren't feeling brave, grab an oven mitt to keep things chill.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot center to keep your fingers happy.
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super toasty, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil! Once it's bubbling away, go ahead and turn off the heat.
- Carefully drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully submerged to soak up all that warmth.
- Using some tongs (safety first!), fish out the hot iOpener from the water.
- Give it a good towel dry – we want it to be nice and toasty, not dripping wet.
- And voilà, your iOpener is all set to work its magic! If you ever need to reheat it, just repeat the hot water dance: boil, turn off, and soak for another 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any scratches or cracks.
This little trick keeps the messy glass shards from flying everywhere and gives your display some solid backup while you pry and lift.
- Got a cracked display glass? Keep the shards from spreading and avoid any ouch moments by taping up the glass first.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is protected.
- Follow the guide steps as usual, but heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep fracturing as you go. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to scoop out those tricky glass pieces.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be dealing with broken glass here, it’s a smart move to wear safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing trouble.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, making sure it lies smoothly so it hugs the surface nicely.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to open the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Stay cool, work slowly, and gently wiggle that tool back and forth until it slips in nicely.
- There's a tiny little opening in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let's take advantage of this little flaw!
- Position your tool near the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—enough to slightly widen that gap.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—just like a pro sneaking into a secret club!
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into the gap next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick.
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad, go ahead and give that iOpener another quick warm-up, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so be ready to bring some serious muscle—but take it slow and steady!
If the tip of your opening pick peeks out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a bit. Going this deep with the pick won't harm anything, but it might spread some sticky adhesive onto the LCD — nothing a little patience can’t handle!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let's kick things off by peeling back the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing that sticky adhesive as you go along.
Tools Used
Step 13
Depending on how long the iPad has been cooling while you work, you might need to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge to keep that adhesive nice and soft as you peel it away.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently 'rolling' it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.
Tools Used
Step 14
- Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to get things ready for the next step.
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the antenna sits in a tricky spot, take your time and handle it gently to avoid any accidental damage—once it’s hurt, it’s a no-go.
- Heads up: the next steps need you to be extra careful.
- You’ll need to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile connections attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner—going further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and that’s a no-go!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna near the corner—it’s super close and can get cut if you’re too rough with the adhesive.
Don't fully pull the pick out from under the front glass—just give it a little tug so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays under the glass. This'll help keep everything steady as you move forward.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the iPad’s bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step carefully frees the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Keep your iOpener chill! Don’t heat it for more than a minute at a time, and be sure to give it a breather for at least two minutes before you reheat. Patience is key, you’ve got this!
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too chilly along the bottom edge, just give the iOpener another heat-up session to warm things up right where you need it.
- Keep peeling off that adhesive along the bottom of the iPad. Gently pull the opening pick far enough to loop around the home button, then slide it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you're past the button. Take your time; you're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 20
On iPad 4 models, gently insert the pick up to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this area. Be careful, we don’t want to accidentally mess with that home button ribbon cable!
- Keep peeling off that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad, nice and steady.
- Now, slide the opening pick carefully underneath the front glass near the home button and leave it there for a moment. It’s doing its job!
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to help loosen up that adhesive. You're doing awesome!
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled off too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. And if the iOpener itself gets too chilly, give it a quick warm-up before continuing.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad. Give it a little nudge to work it around the front-facing camera bracket.
- This part has some pretty strong adhesive, so you'll need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Just take it slow, and be careful not to slip up and hurt yourself or your iPad.
- If the pick gets stuck in the sticky stuff, just roll it like shown in step 9 to keep things moving.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive feels nicely warmed up, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still holding on tight, just heat up the iOpener again and rest it on the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently work the opening pick around that top left corner. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. So, when you're sliding that pick, stop when you're around 2.25 inches (60 mm) up from the bottom—let's keep things safe and sound!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, easing the adhesive loose as you go. The adhesive is pretty thin here because the digitizer runs along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to avoid cutting this little guy!
- With that trusty opening pick still tucked beneath the bottom edge of your iPad, give the adhesive a gentle nudge and release it from the bottom left corner. You've got this!
Step 26
It looks like some of that adhesive around the edge of your iPad may have decided to stick around a bit longer than expected. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it underneath the area where the front glass is still holding on tight, and give that adhesive a little 'snip' to help it release.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad, then snag it with your fingers like a pro.
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on—grab your opening pick and gently slice through any glue keeping the front panel stuck.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and give that front glass a little twist away from the device.
- When you're putting it all back together, remember to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust or fingerprints on the LCD before you set the glass back in place.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD onto the back case. Easy does it!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, and remember, don't try to take it off the iPad—its display data cable will stay connected while you gently rotate it.
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away under the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment.
- Grab the LCD by its long side near the volume buttons and carefully flip it open like you’re turning the page of a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel to keep it safe and sound.
Step 30
Make sure you’re gently prying up the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves. You don’t want to accidentally give them a hard time!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in red. This is your cue to focus on these areas to keep everything secure!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. You've got this!
Step 31
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently work the edge under the digitizer cable, easing it away from the logic board shields. You've got this!
- With a delicate touch, carefully pull the digitizer cable free from the adhesive that's holding it snug against the side of the rear case. Almost there!
Step 32
- Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its snug little homes on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care—don't try to yank it off just yet! It’s still connected by its cable as you gently flip it over.
To detach the front panel assembly, you'll want to carefully slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. A little bit of wiggle room with the LCD will help make this step a breeze!
- Grab the LCD by its long edge that's furthest from the digitizer cable and carefully fold it back toward the rear case, like closing a book.
- While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out so you don’t catch the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
- Place the LCD back into the body somewhere safe until you need it again.
Step 34
Time to gently flip the iPad’s LCD out of its case so we can get to the good stuff inside.
- Gently lift the LCD starting from the long edge nearest the volume buttons, then carefully flip it out of the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. To keep it scratch-free, consider laying it on a soft cloth.
Step 35
Heads up! When unplugging the connector, don’t yank it straight up—gentle does it to keep things safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge that display data cable lock upwards. It's like a little dance move for your device!
- Now, give that display data cable a gentle tug and pull it right out of its cozy socket. Easy peasy!
Step 36
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly. You've got this!
Step 37
- If you spot a piece of tape hiding the end of the dock connector cable, grab a plastic opening tool to gently lift it off.
- Carefully wedge the edge of your plastic opening tool under the dock connector cable’s connector and lift it out from its socket on the logic board.
- Peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel with a steady hand.
Step 38
Take it easy when you're prying the connector! Focus on just the connector itself and steer clear of the socket on the logic board, or you might accidentally damage it. Keep it cool and steady!
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 39
Make sure you're lifting up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. You've got this!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket to flip it up.
- Carefully peel the headphone jack and front camera cable away from the rear case.
Step 40
- Gently tug on the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable to pop it right out of its cozy little home on the logic board.
Step 41
Avoid pulling the cable straight up when disconnecting it. Keep it gentle and steady!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the retainer that's holding the control board cable connector in place. Give it a little flip to free it from its cozy spot on the logic board.
- Now, with a gentle tug, pull that connector away from its home on the logic board. You got this!
Step 42
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket to the rear case right by the digitizer cable socket.
- Lift that logic board bracket out from the rear case and set it aside.
Step 43
- Unscrew the last three 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board to the back case. You're almost there!
Step 44
- Gently slip the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and carefully lift it away from the sticky adhesive that's holding it to the rear case. Easy does it!
Step 45
Hold your horses! Before you go ahead and try to yank it off, remember there's still an antenna cable hanging on for dear life.
- Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and give it a little tilt towards the battery. You're doing great!
Step 46
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the Wi-Fi antenna connector to pop it out of its socket on the logic board.
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the iPad 2.
Step 47
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: be mindful not to let the iOpener get too hot during your repair adventure. Give it a breather for at least two minutes before you heat it up again, and remember, the microwave is not a long-term friend—keep it under one minute. You've got this!
If your iOpener cools down too much between uses, just pop it back in the microwave for another quick minute to keep things toasty.
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick minute to get it nice and toasty.
- Once it’s heated up, place the warm iOpener on the back of your iPad, just a smidge to the right of center (that’s the side away from the rear camera). Let it chill there for 90 seconds to help soften up that pesky battery adhesive.
- Next up, slide the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let it relax there for another 90 seconds.
- Finally, scoot the iOpener over to the left edge (where the rear camera is) of the iPad's back and give it another 90 seconds to work its magic.
Tools Used
Step 48
If that adhesive is being super stubborn, just warm up the rear panel a bit more and give it another go!
- Let's kick things off with the battery cell that's closest to the dock connector. Take your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it under the edge of the battery nearest to the logic board void. This will create just enough space to pop in the flat end of a spudger.
- Now, grab that spudger and glide the flat end along the two long sides of each battery cell. This will help you fully detach them from the adhesive that’s been keeping them cozy with the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 49
Take it easy on bending the battery connector board—it’s not a rubber band! Watch out especially when prying near the screw post on the aluminum rear case to keep things safe and sound.
- Carefully use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pop the battery connector board off the rear panel before prying up the middle battery cell.
Step 50
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry apart the adhesive along the long edges of the middle battery cell.
- Do the same for the last battery cell, warming up the case again if it’s being stubborn.
Tools Used
Step 51
- Gently coax the battery free from the rear panel and lift it out of the iPad 2 with care.
Step 52
- Gently lift the dock connector and speaker cables to uncover the Wi-Fi antenna cable underneath.
- Carefully peel the Wi-Fi antenna cable away from the back panel.
Step 53
- Let's get that device open! Start by taking out these four screws:
- Two tiny 2.0 mm Phillips screws
- And two slightly bigger 1.7 mm Phillips screws
Step 54
- Carefully peel off the Wi-Fi antenna from the speaker enclosure and take it out of the iPad 2.
Step 55
Make sure those little rings of EMI foam are still snug on the dock connector cable. They're the unsung heroes of a smooth connection!
- Gently detach the dock connector cable from the speaker cable. Give it a little wiggle, and it should come off smoothly!
Step 56
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the big strip of tape holding the speaker assembly to the back panel.
- Use your fingers to carefully peel that tape right off the speaker assembly.
Step 57
- Time to unscrew a couple of tiny friends! First up, grab your trusty screwdriver and remove these two screws:
- One 3 mm Phillips screw, because every little bit helps!
- And don't forget that one 2.1 mm Phillips screw, it's just as important!
Step 58
- To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps in reverse order and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If you run into any trouble along the way, remember you can always schedule a repair for a helping hand!
