iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 67 Steps
Ready to bring your iPad back to life? Replacing a tired, worn-out battery is a great way to do it. If your battery is looking a little puffy, take extra care and follow the steps carefully. If you're feeling unsure about the process, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair to get expert help.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause some burns—so keep it moving!
We suggest giving your microwave a good clean before diving in, as any pesky residue on the bottom might hitch a ride on the iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! Overheating it can cause it to burst, and we don't want that. Stick to heating it to a max of 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks a bit puffed up, hands off! Don't touch it.
Still too hot in the middle to handle? No problem! Let it cool down a bit before giving it another round of heat. A good iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.
Depending on your microwave's wattage, you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. You'll know the iOpener is ready when it's just about too hot to handle!
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it warmed up.
- As you work through the repair, just give the iOpener a quick 30-second reheat every time it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets really hot, so handle it with care! If it's too warm for comfort, grab an oven mitt to keep things safe.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the flat ends—steer clear of the hot center to keep those fingers safe and sound.
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Step 4
The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Trust us, your hands will thank you!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by carefully placing it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.
- Carefully dunk your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to fish out the warmed-up iOpener—watch those fingers!
- Dry it off thoroughly with a towel so it’s good to go.
- Ready to heat it up again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak your iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—let's keep it in one piece!
This will keep those pesky glass shards in check and help maintain the display's strength while you're gently prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards from causing more trouble and protect yourself by taping over the glass.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass pieces out.
Step 6
Just a heads up, you might be dealing with some fragile glass here, so we highly suggest rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those pesky shards at bay. Safety first, right?
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, making sure it's nice and smooth for solid contact between the iPad's surface and the iOpener.
- Give the bag a cozy 90-second nap on the iPad before you dive in to pop open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Stay patient and keep gently wiggling that tool back and forth until it slides in nicely.
- Check out the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your ticket in.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the space between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to nudge the crack open a bit.
Step 8
- Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that cozy little gap right beside the tool. It's like giving your device a gentle nudge to help it open up!
Step 10
- Gently slide the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, then ease the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass, aiming for about half an inch. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 11
- As you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener another heat-up, then pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. Keep it cool and steady, you've got this!
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Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so you’ll need to bring your A-game and a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of that opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While getting the pick in this deep won’t hurt a thing, it might leave a bit of sticky residue on your LCD. Just a heads up!
- While you’re warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start working your magic on the right edge of the iPad, loosening up that adhesive.
- Take the opening pick and glide it down the iPad's edge, carefully letting go of that sticky stuff as you go. Smooth and steady wins the race!
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Step 13
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad while loosening the adhesive. How long your iPad has cooled down during the process will decide if this move is necessary.
- If the opening pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the side of the iPad. Keep going, and it'll work its magic, peeling away that sticky stuff!
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Step 14
- Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little trick keeps the adhesive from sticking back together on you.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Because of how the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, take extra care during this step to avoid any permanent damage—handle it like it’s a delicate dance move!
- Alright, it's time to take it slow and steady for the next few steps. This is where you want to be extra careful!
- The goal here is to gently detach the antenna from the front panel, but don't worry—the antenna's delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad need your attention too. Take your time and follow the steps closely!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner. Going too far could accidentally damage the Wi-Fi antenna, and we’d rather not cause that! Keep it gentle and precise.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is just a hair's breadth from the corner, and if you're not careful with the adhesive, it could end up being a bit too close for comfort. Let's avoid any mishaps together!
Don't yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Just give it a gentle tug until about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip is still hiding under there. Keep it cozy while you work your magic!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Once you've passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, or right by the home button), slide the opening pick back in all the way.
- Gently move the pick to the right, loosening the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place on the front glass.
- The antenna is attached at the bottom with screws and a cable. This step ensures that when you remove the front panel, the antenna stays safe and doesn’t get damaged.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heating time to one minute max, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before giving it another whirl!
If the glue along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just heat up the iOpener again to get that adhesive nice and warm where you’re working.
- Gently continue peeling off the adhesive along the bottom of your iPad. Keep the opening pick in place, carefully pulling it enough to curve around the home button. Once it's past the button, slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) for a secure fit.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in gently up to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) here—careful not to poke the home button ribbon cable!
- Keep sliding that adhesive release tool along the entire bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.
- Leave the opening pick chilling under the front glass right by the home button to keep things steady.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled too much, just swap out the iOpener along that top edge and keep the good vibes rolling. If your iOpener is feeling a bit chilly, give it a little reheat and get back to work!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so it might take a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful not to slip or hurt yourself or the iPad.
- If the opening pick starts to get stuck in the gooey adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still a bit sticky, just heat the iOpener again and rest it on the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable lives about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom edge of the iPad. When your pick is nearing around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom, it's time to pause and take a breather!
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left side of the iPad to break up the adhesive. Heads up: the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running the full length on this edge. Keep your pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid messing with the digitizer.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and steady to avoid accidentally snipping this little guy.
- Slide the opening pick that's still hanging out under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive near the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to stick back down. If that happens, carefully slide a pick under the part of the front glass that’s still holding tight and gently work it to separate the adhesive.
- Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of your iPad, then carefully lift and hold it with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky adhesive that might still be clinging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that's keeping the front panel snug. You've got this!
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You've got this!
- When it's time to put everything back together, don’t forget to grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air. Give that LCD a little TLC by wiping away any dust or fingerprints before you seal up the glass. It’ll thank you later!
Step 28
- Take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD snug against the rear case. You've got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, and resist the urge to detach it from the iPad—its display data cable is still connected while you twist it around.
The front panel ribbon cables are hiding beneath the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to gently flip the LCD over and tuck it out of the way for a moment.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge nearest the volume buttons and carefully flip it open like you’re turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel to keep things steady.
Step 30
Make sure you're lifting the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves—handle with care!
Check out the second picture—those red-highlighted retaining flaps are the ones you're looking for!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and lift them up with care. You've got this!
Step 31
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it away from the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable off the adhesive keeping it stuck to the side of the rear case.
Step 32
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board like you're unplugging a tiny, delicate plug—smooth and steady wins the race!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care, and remember, it's not going anywhere! Keep it attached while you gently rotate it over.
To get that front panel assembly off, you'll need to slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Don't worry, just give the LCD a little nudge to make some space for it.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable and flip it back toward the rear case—think of it like closing a book, but way cooler.
- While you're holding that LCD up like a pro, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just a friendly reminder—watch out for the digitizer cable; we don't want it getting snagged on anything!
- Now, place the LCD back into the body for safekeeping. It's like tucking it in for a little nap!
Step 34
To dive into the iPad's inner workings, we first need to gently pop the LCD out of its cozy case.
- Gently lift the LCD starting from the edge nearest the volume buttons and carefully flip it out of the rear case—think of it like flipping a page in your favorite book!
- Once it's free, place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath can help keep it from getting scratched up.
Step 35
Watch out! When you're disconnecting the connector, give it a gentle nudge straight out instead of pulling it up. We want to keep everything in tip-top shape!
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the display data cable lock upwards. Nice and easy!
- Now, carefully pull the display data cable out of its socket. You've got this!
Step 36
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly, like peeling a banana with style!
Step 37
- First things first, if there's a piece of tape on the dock connector cable, gently peel it away using a plastic opening tool. You've got this!
- Next up, grab that trusty plastic opening tool and carefully nudge the dock connector cable's connector upwards from its cozy spot on the logic board. Easy does it!
- Finally, with a little finesse, peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel. You're doing great!
Step 38
Take care to gently detach just the connector and steer clear of the logic board socket – we don't want to risk a socket meltdown!
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 39
- First, grab your screwdriver and take out these screws:
- Next, let's pop off that metal bracket from the rear case.
- Undo two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are holding one of the metal brackets in place.
- Finally, remove that 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board to the rear case. Almost there!
Step 40
- If you spot it, grab those tweezers and gently peel away the piece of tape that's hiding the end of the headphone jack/control board cable. Let's get that cable ready for action!
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Step 41
Remember to lift the hinged retaining flap up, not the socket itself. You've got this!
- Grab the flat edge of your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the headphone jack/control board cable ZIF socket. You're doing great!
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Step 42
- Gently slide the spudger's tip under the headphone jack/control board ribbon cable to give it a little disconnect party!
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Step 43
- First things first, grab your trusty screwdriver and take out those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the second metal bracket snug against the rear case, right near the digitizer cable socket. You've got this!
- Now that those screws are out of the way, gently remove the metal bracket from the rear case. You're making great progress!
Step 44
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and work it free from the sticky adhesive that’s keeping it attached to the rear case. You've got this!
Step 45
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking it off just yet. There's still an antenna cable hanging on for dear life.
- Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case and give it a little flip toward the battery. You're almost there—just a few more steps to go!
Step 46
- Gently nudge the Wi-Fi antenna connector up from its cozy home on the logic board using the tip of a spudger. It's like giving it a little lift-off!
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the case. You're making great progress!
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Step 47
Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on the iOpener's temperature during your repair journey! Give it a break for at least two minutes before reheating, and remember, the microwave is a no-go for more than one minute. Let's keep things safe and smooth!
If the iOpener cools down too much while you're working, just pop it back in the microwave for another minute and keep on going!
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick 60 seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- Place the warm iOpener just to the right of the iPad's center (opposite of the rear camera). Let it rest there for a good 90 seconds to work its magic on the battery adhesive.
- Shift the iOpener to the middle of the iPad's back and give it another 90 seconds to soften things up.
- Move the iOpener to the left edge of the iPad (yep, where the rear camera lives) and let it sit there for another 90 seconds.
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Step 48
In this step, you'll gently slide thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case to carefully peel away the adhesive holding the battery in place. Keep the cards flat to avoid bending the battery, which could lead to damage and the release of dangerous chemicals. Take it slow and steady—you got this!
If you hit some stubborn resistance, just pop the iOpener back in the microwave and give it another warm-up to help that adhesive chill out a bit more.
- Turn the iPad back over and slide a plastic card between the bottom battery cell and the rear case. You've got this!
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Step 49
- Let's kick things off with the battery cell that's closest to the dock connector! Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently slide it under the edge of the battery nearest to the logic board void. This will create just enough space for you to slip in a plastic card. You've got this!
Step 50
- Slide the card into the corner of the case and gently push it in to separate more of the adhesive. Easy does it – the more you slide, the smoother the separation.
Step 51
- Slide the card gently around the corner, keeping it close to the case side of the battery.
- Try to insert the card at as flat an angle as possible to keep the battery happy and unbent.
Step 52
- Slide the card in at the bottom corner near the headphone jack to gently pop this side of the battery cell loose.
Step 53
- Gently glide the card along the edge of the cell to free up any stubborn adhesive still holding on.
Step 54
- Carefully lift the edge of the battery cell away from the casing. Just a gentle nudge is all it takes!
Step 55
- Carefully lift the corner of the battery away from the case to free up the last side of that dock side cell.
Step 56
- Carefully lift the last corner of the cell without twisting or bending the cable that links the battery cells.
- Keep this card in place to stop the adhesive from sticking back while you work on loosening the other battery cells.
Step 57
- Grab a second plastic card and gently slide it underneath the edge of the battery cell that's closest to the headphone jack. Be mindful of the logic board void area nearby—no need to rush here, just take it slow and steady.
Step 58
- Gently slide the card under the corner to loosen the cell from its sticky grip.
Step 59
- Carefully wiggle and lift the corner of the cell away from the case without rushing it.
Step 60
- Gently slide the card into the opposite corner to loosen up even more adhesive.
Step 61
- Give one last gentle swipe to tackle that pesky adhesive.
Step 62
- Just a final little pry, and you can leave the card snugly in place to keep that battery lifted away from the sticky stuff. Easy peasy!
Step 63
Alright, time to get to that center battery cell. The adhesive might have cooled down a bit by now, so warming it up again with the iOpener could give you a smoother peel.
- Carefully slide that trusty card right under the center cell, close to the cable. You've got this!
- Now, gently insert the card near the far end of the battery. You're almost there!
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Step 64
- Carefully lift the bottom edge of the cell away from the case like a pro.
- Next, nudge the dock side corner of the cell up to break free from the sticky stuff.
- Give it another gentle pry near the cable to loosen the cell a bit more.
Step 65
- Gently slide a corner of your trusty card under the top edge of the cell, right by the logic board void. It's like giving it a little nudge!
- Now, use that screw post like a pivot to lift off the last bit of adhesive holding down the battery connector board. You're doing great!
Step 66
Take it easy bending the battery connector board—no need to be a contortionist here! Watch out especially when prying near the screw post on the aluminum rear case; gentle moves win the race.
- Slide the cards into the gaps between the batteries like a pro.
- Gently pry upwards to pop the battery connector board off the screw post and lift the battery assembly out of the case.
Step 67
You might need to gently slide a plastic card between the battery and the rear case to slice through any stubborn adhesive still hanging on.
- To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse! Check out our guide for reattaching the front panel using the iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips. If you hit a snag, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help!
