iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
Get ready to swap out that broken antenna! This guide will walk you through the process step by step, making it easier than you think. Let's get your device back in action! And remember, if you run into any tricky spots, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate spins without a hitch. If your iOpener gets caught up, it might just overheat and cause a little burn—yikes!
Before you get started, give your microwave a quick clean—any gross stuff hanging out at the bottom might decide to hitch a ride on the iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave to get it warmed up and ready to work its magic.
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. We don't want it to get too hot and cause any surprises, so let's keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, it's best to give it some space—safety first!
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit. A well-heated iOpener should stay nice and toasty for about 10 minutes, so you've got time!
Microwave wattage can change how long you’ll need to heat the iOpener. It’s ready when it’s just a bit too hot to keep your fingers on comfortably.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you tackle this repair journey, keep the iOpener warm by giving it another thirty seconds in the microwave whenever it starts to cool off.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener will be piping hot, so handle it with care. Throw on an oven mitt if you want to keep those fingers safe and cool.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Safety first, my friend!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener heats up pretty hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by dipping it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.
- Pop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Carefully fish out the iOpener using tongs—hot stuff!
- Give it a good dry with a towel so it’s ready to go.
- And that’s it! Your iOpener is primed for action. If you need to warm it up again, just repeat the boil, turn off, soak routine.
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Step 5
Don't forget your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it's more fragile than it looks!
This keeps those pesky glass shards in check while adding some muscle for prying and lifting the display.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass before you start.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the whole front is protected.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you work, and you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: while you're getting up close and personal with that broken glass, it's a smart idea to rock some safety glasses. You wouldn't want any sneaky shards to crash the party!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it hugs the surface nicely and warms it up evenly.
- Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to open the front panel.
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Step 7
It might take a bit of elbow grease to slide that nifty opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take your time, be gentle, and give it a little wiggle as you go. You've got this!
- Check out the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your secret entry point.
- Line up your plastic opening tool with the mute button. Gently slip just the very tip of the tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel—just enough to nudge the crack open a bit.
Step 8
- Be sure to place the tool just right—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- Gently wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to start the separation.
Step 10
- Gently take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch, give or take!
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and give the iOpener a quick warm-up again, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 12
This adhesive is tough stuff, so don’t be shy about using some solid pressure—just take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it's totally safe to use the pick this deep, just a heads up – you might end up with some sticky adhesive on the LCD. Keep it cool and carry on with your repair journey!
- As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, it's time to tackle that sticky situation on the right edge of your iPad. Let's get that adhesive to loosen up!
- Gently slide the opening pick down the side of your iPad, and watch the adhesive give way as you go. You're doing great!
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad while you’re loosening the adhesive. How long the iPad’s been cooling off during your work will decide if this move is necessary.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive loosening up!
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Step 14
- Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up there.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Because of how it's positioned, take your time and handle it gently—one wrong move and the antenna might decide to retire early.
- Alright, time to take it slow and steady. These next few steps need a little extra care, so let's keep our focus sharp.
- Now, it's time to carefully peel back the adhesive that's holding the antenna to the front panel. Be extra gentle to avoid damaging the fragile connections between the antenna and the iPad's bottom. Take it step by step and you'll be just fine.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner — going further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we don’t want that!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that pesky adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 17
Be careful as you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel! The Wi-Fi antenna is snuggled up near the corner, and if the adhesive decides to misbehave, it could get a little too friendly with your tool. Stay sharp and keep it steady!
Just a little tip: don't yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Pull it out just enough so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked under there. You've got this!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Now that you've gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), gently slide that opening pick back in all the way.
- Give that pick a little wiggle to the right, and voilà! You've just freed the adhesive that's been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
- Remember, the antenna is connected to the bottom of your iPad with some screws and a cable. By completing this step, you’re detaching the antenna from the front panel, which means when it’s time to pull off that panel, the antenna stays safe and sound!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener heating sessions to under a minute, and give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before warming it up again.
If the adhesive's cooled down a bit too much along the bottom edge, just reheat the iOpener and give that adhesive some warmth where you're working. A little heat goes a long way!
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Make sure to pull that opening pick out just enough to maneuver around the home button. Once you’ve cleared the home button, pop it back in, aiming for about a half inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this area to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep on peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
- Make sure to leave the opening pick snugly in place under the front glass by the home button. It’s doing a great job holding things together!
Step 21
- Give your iOpener a quick spin in the microwave to heat things up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This little warm-up session will help loosen the adhesive in that area, making your repair journey smoother.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If it’s too chilly, give it a quick reheat and you're good to go!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive in this area is pretty hefty, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Take your time and be cautious—no one wants a surprise slip that could harm you or your beloved iPad!
- If the opening pick seems to be stuck in the gooey adhesive, try giving it a little 'roll' as shown in step 9.
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Step 23
Once the adhesive feels nice and toasty, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for easier handling. But if it’s still playing sticky, just give the iOpener another quick warm-up and rest it on the left edge while you keep at it.
- Peel the adhesive away from the top edge of the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you're around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding that pick. Keep it steady, you're almost there!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, waking up the adhesive as you go. The glue here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid giving the digitizer a surprise it won't like.
Step 25
The digitizer cable is pretty close to the bottom of your iPad, just about 1 inch (25 mm). Take your time and be extra careful here, making sure not to accidentally cut or damage the cable. A little patience goes a long way!
- With the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently work it along the bottom left corner to break the adhesive seal. A little patience goes a long way here, and soon enough, you'll have it loose.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edges of the iPad likes to stick back down. If that happens, just slide a pick under the edge where the glass is still holding tight and carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently nudge up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it's popped up, give it a little hug with your fingers to keep it secure.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be lurking around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive trying to keep the front panel in place. You've got this!
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It should pop right out, like a little magic trick!
- When you're putting everything back together, take a microfiber cloth and give the LCD a quick wipe to remove any dust or fingerprints. A little blast of compressed air works wonders here too. Trust me, your screen will look brand new!
Step 28
- Take out the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD onto the rear case. Keep them safe, you’ll need them again!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care as you move it around, and remember—it's not going anywhere! The display data cable will stay connected while you gently rotate it. Keep up the great work!
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked away beneath the LCD. To get to them, just gently flip the LCD over and set it aside for a moment. You've got this!
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge near the volume buttons and flip it away from the rear case, like you're turning a page in a book.
- Carefully set the LCD face down on the front panel, making sure it’s not getting scratched or damaged.
Step 30
Make sure you’re lifting the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves—let’s keep those connectors happy!
Check out the second picture for a handy highlight – the retaining flaps are marked in red so you can spot them easily!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and carefully flip them up.
Step 31
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently slide it under the digitizer cable, giving it a little nudge to release it from the logic board shields. You're doing great!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully lift the digitizer cable free from the sticky adhesive that's keeping it attached to the rear case. Almost there!
Step 32
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its sockets on the logic board. Just a steady hand and a little patience, and it’ll come right out!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care and don’t try to yank it off the iPad—the cable’s still attached while you gently swivel it aside.
To take off the front panel assembly, you'll need to carefully wiggle the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some space for it to slide out smoothly.
- Start by lifting the LCD from the edge furthest from the digitizer cable, and gently flip it towards the rear case—kind of like closing a book, but with extra care.
- While keeping the LCD lifted, carefully slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just be mindful not to let the digitizer cable get caught on the rear case or LCD.
- Once you've got the LCD separated, place it back into the body gently to keep it safe and out of harm's way.
Step 34
To get inside the iPad, gently flip the LCD screen away from the case so we can access the inner components.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge nearest to the volume buttons and gently swing it open—like flipping a page in your favorite book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath is a smart move to keep scratches at bay.
Step 35
Heads up! Gently wiggle the connector out without yanking it straight up from its socket.
- Gently pry up the display data cable lock using a plastic opening tool.
- Carefully slide the display data cable out of its connector.
Step 36
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Step 37
- First things first, if there's a piece of tape holding down the dock connector cable, go ahead and peel it off using a plastic opening tool. You got this!
- Next up, grab that plastic opening tool again and gently nudge the dock connector cable's connector upwards from its cozy spot on the logic board. Take your time, it's like a little dance!
- Finally, take a moment to peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel. Easy does it!
Step 38
Take extra care to lift just the connector, not the socket on the logic board. One wrong move and you could end up damaging the socket. Go slow, stay steady!
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board, like you’re carefully unplugging a tiny dance partner.
Step 39
- Time to unscrew! Start by removing these screws:
- Gently take off the metal bracket from the rear case.
- Unscrew two 2.1 mm Phillips screws that hold one of the metal brackets to the rear case.
- Now, remove the single 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board to the rear case.
Step 40
- If you spot a piece of tape blocking the headphone jack/control board cable end, grab your tweezers and gently peel it away.
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Step 41
Make sure to gently lift the hinged retaining flap upward, and avoid prying on the socket itself. You've got this!
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the retaining flap on the headphone jack/control board cable ZIF socket and lift it up to unlock.
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Step 42
- Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the headphone jack/control board ribbon cable to carefully pop it loose.
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Step 43
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding down the second metal bracket next to the digitizer cable socket on the rear case.
- Lift off the metal bracket from the rear case and set it aside.
Step 44
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the logic board and nudge it upwards to break the adhesive that's holding it tight to the rear case. You've got this!
Step 45
Hold up—don’t rip it out just yet! There’s still an antenna cable holding on. Be gentle.
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the rear case, then flip it gently over towards the battery like you’re giving it a little peek.
Step 46
- Gently wiggle the tip of a spudger under the Wi-Fi antenna connector to lift it off its spot on the logic board.
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the case.
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Step 47
- Gently move those dock connector/speaker cables aside and carefully peel off the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna cable from the adhesive that's holding it to the rear case. You're doing great—keep it up!
Step 48
- Let's get started by loosening up those screws holding the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna snug against the rear case:
- First up, remove two 1.7 mm Phillips screws.
- Next, tackle two 2.0 mm Phillips screws.
Step 49
- To put your device back together, just reverse these steps and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If you hit a snag, no worries—you can always schedule a repair!
