iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 33 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out that front-facing camera and keep your vlogging game strong. Don't let a faulty camera hold back your creativity!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate spins with ease. If your iOpener gets jammed, it might heat up and cause a little burn action.
Before you start, give your microwave a quick wipe-down—any leftover mess on the bottom might stick to the iOpener and make things messy.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave, right in the center. Give it some space to warm up!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener’s temperature during your repair! Overheating can make it go pop. Avoid cranking it up beyond 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and appears swollen, hands off!
If the iOpener is still too toasty in the center to handle, give it a little break. Let it cool off before you reheat it. A properly heated iOpener should stay nice and warm for up to 10 minutes.
Microwave wattage varies, so heating times might too. Your iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too warm to hold comfortably.
- Give your iOpener a warm-up in the microwave for thirty seconds.
- As you tackle each step of your repair adventure, remember to pop that iOpener back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets pretty hot, so be careful when handling it. Oven mitts are your friend if you need 'em!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends to keep clear of the hot center. Stay safe, it might be warmer than your coffee!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so make sure to grab it only by the little end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
Don't have a microwave? No worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to give it the warmth it needs.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully submerge your iOpener.
- Heat up that water until it's boiling. Then, turn off the heat and let it cool just a little.
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water and leave it there for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s completely submerged.
- Use tongs to safely grab the iOpener from the water once it’s heated.
- Give your iOpener a good dry with a towel. You’re almost there!
- Now your iOpener is good to go! If you need to warm it up again, just heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and pop the iOpener in for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those stylish safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to tread carefully around that LCD screen – it's more delicate than it looks!
This will help keep those pesky glass shards under control and give your display some solid support while you're prying and lifting it up.
- So, your display glass has seen better days, huh? No worries! To keep things safe and sound during your repair adventure, grab some tape and cover that cracked glass. Let's keep the shards contained and avoid any accidental ouchies.
- Start by layering some clear packing tape over the entire screen of your iPad, overlapping those strips like a cozy blanket until the whole face is nicely covered.
- Now, as you dive into the rest of the guide, remember that once the glass starts to break, it might continue to crack a bit more as you work your magic. If that happens, don’t stress—just grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out the broken glass. You're doing great!
Step 6
Heads up! You're likely going to be handling broken glass during this step, so slip on some safety glasses to keep those flying shards at bay. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener gently along the right edge of the iPad, making sure it's making good contact with the surface. The goal is to smooth it out so that everything's lined up just right.
- Give the bag a solid 90 seconds to sit and work its magic on the iPad. This will give the front panel a chance to loosen up before you try to open it.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Stay cool and patient—gently wiggle that plastic tool back and forth until it slips in nicely.
- You'll notice a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner, about 2 inches (~5 cm) from the top. This is your golden opportunity to get started.
- Position your tool near the mute button, and carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip to gently widen the crack. No need to force it, just a light touch to get things moving.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right where the plastic display bezel meets the front panel glass — that’s the sweet spot!
Step 9
- With the plastic opening tool gently lodged between the front glass and the plastic bezel, carefully slide a plastic opening pick right beside it into the gap. It's all about the teamwork—these tools are working together to give you that perfect opening!
Step 10
- Carefully take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass, aiming for about a half-inch depth. Keep it steady, and you'll be through in no time!
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of freeing up the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener a little reheat love and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Step 12
This adhesive is tough stuff—brace yourself and apply some solid effort, but take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it's perfectly safe to use the pick this deep, just a heads up: it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Keep that in mind as you go along!
- While the bottom edge gets some love from the iOpener's heat, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
- Now, take the opening pick and slide it along the iPad's edge, letting the adhesive loosen up as you go.
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Step 13
If the adhesive is giving you trouble, you might need to reposition the heated iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad. This all depends on how much time the iPad has had to cool down while you've been working on it.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad. Keep at it to help free up that sticky stuff!
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again, then move it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads-up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Given how it's positioned, it’s super important to tread lightly here—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to that Wi-Fi antenna. Let's keep that connection strong!
- Alright, my friend, it's time to tread carefully! The next few steps are a little tricky.
- You'll need to gently loosen the adhesive that's holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super careful not to mess up those delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the next steps closely!
Step 16
Keep your pick from sliding past the bottom right corner. Going too far could put a dent in your Wi-Fi antenna's day!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to set the adhesive free. You got this!
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out close to the corner, so take it slow to avoid cutting the adhesive and causing a hiccup.
Don’t pull the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just slide it out a tiny bit so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked underneath.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Once you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, or just beside the home button—pop that opening pick back in there all the way.
- Now, slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive that's holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug to the front glass.
- Keep in mind, the antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is all about making sure that when you lift off the front panel, the antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 19
Heat the iOpener for no more than a minute at a time, and be sure to chill out for at least two minutes before giving it another warm-up.
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, just give that iOpener a little heat to warm things up in the area you're working on. You've got this!
- Keep sliding that adhesive release tool along the bottom edge of the iPad. When you get past the home button, pull the pick out enough to loop around it, then slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) deep to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, carefully slide the pick in just 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep in this spot to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound. You've got this!
- Keep on peeling that adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of your iPad like it's your favorite snack wrapper.
- Once you've got that going, slide the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making it easier to work with.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has gotten too chilly, pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself has cooled off, just give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, nudging it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scrapes—safety first!
- If the pick feels like it’s sticking in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as shown in step 9 to ease it through.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is feeling nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it's still a bit too sticky for comfort, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you tackle the task at hand.
- Keep working that adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
Hey there! The digitizer cable is hiding out about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Just take a pause when your pick gets to around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom—you're almost there!
- Gently slide your opening pick along the iPad's left edge to loosen the adhesive. Heads up—the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running the length of this side. Keep your pick shallow (no deeper than 10 mm or about half an inch) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Be gentle with that digitizer cable! It's hiding just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and move slowly to avoid any accidental snips. You've got this!
- Slide the opening pick that’s already tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad can get a bit clingy and stick back down. When that happens, just slide a pick under the spot where the glass is still holding on and carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky glue still hanging on, and use an opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive holding the front panel in place.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting everything back together, give the LCD a good wipe with a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to clear away any dust or smudges before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
- Take out those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD in place against the rear case. You've got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care—don’t try to yank it off just yet, since its display data cable is still attached as you gently flip it over.
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked right under the LCD. To get to them, gently flip the LCD over and move it aside for a moment.
- Carefully lift the LCD from the long edge near the volume buttons and gently swing it open like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel, ready for the next step.
Step 30
- If you spot a bit of tape shielding the end of the front-facing camera cable, grab your tweezers and gently peel it away.
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Step 31
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the connector away from its cozy spot on the control board. You're doing great!
Step 32
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the front facing camera cable to carefully loosen the adhesive holding it down on the control board.
Step 33
- Put your device back together by reversing these steps, and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive Strips guide to stick that front panel right back where it belongs. If things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair!
