iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Microphone Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 38 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out a microphone that’s stopped working — it’s way simpler than picking up sign language!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate has the freedom to spin like a top! If your iOpener gets a little too cozy and gets stuck, it could overheat and cause a little burn drama.
Before you get started, give your microwave a quick clean—any leftover grime at the bottom might decide to hitch a ride on your iOpener, and nobody wants that!
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let the magic happen!
Tools Used
Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. We definitely don’t want it to get too hot and burst like a balloon! So, let’s keep the heat below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, give it some space and don’t touch it. Safety first!
If the middle of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, no worries! Just keep using it until it cools down a bit before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need a bit more or a little less time. The iOpener is good to go when it’s just about too hot to handle.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready.
- If it starts cooling down while you work, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle it with care. Oven mitts are your friend here!
- Carefully grab the iOpener by one of its flat ends when taking it out of the microwave—steer clear of that hot middle spot!
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by warming it up in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
- Turn up the heat and let that water come to a rolling boil. Once it's bubbling like a party, turn off the heat.
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully immersed—this is a spa day for your iOpener!
- Using some tongs, gently fish out the heated iOpener from the water. Safety first!
- Give your iOpener a good towel-dry. We want it to be as dry as a desert before you get to work with it.
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to roll! If you find it needs another heat-up, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for 2-3 more minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and remember—take care not to scratch that LCD screen. It’s delicate, so handle with love.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check while adding a little muscle when you're prying and lifting the display.
- Got a cracked display? No worries—let's prevent it from getting any worse. Start by taping over the cracks to keep things safe and tidy during your repair.
- Place clear packing tape over the screen, overlapping the strips until the whole front is covered. It's like giving your iPad a little protective armor.
- Keep following the guide step by step. Be aware that once the glass starts to crack, it might keep going as you work. You might even need a metal prying tool to help scoop out the shattered pieces, but take your time. If you're feeling stuck, don't hesitate to schedule a repair.
Step 6
Since you might encounter some broken glass along the way, we highly recommend putting on a pair of safety glasses. It'll keep you safe from any unexpected flying shards!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to pop open the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
Getting the opening tool’s tip wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle—stay cool and patient, gently rocking the tool back and forth until it slides in.
- Spot the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the slit between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the tip to ease the crack open — no need to go all in.
Step 8
- Place the tool gently between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. Be careful not to force it; a little finesse goes a long way!
Step 9
- Place the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick right next to it into the gap. Take your time, and keep it steady—you're doing great!
Step 10
- Grab that plastic opening tool and gently pry it away from the iPad. Then, slide the opening pick underneath the front glass, aiming to go about 0.5 inches deep. Take your time, no rush, just let the tool do its thing!
Step 11
- While you're working on loosening up the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, go ahead and heat up that iOpener again. Once it's nice and warm, place it gently on the bottom edge of your iPad to help soften things up.
Tools Used
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to give it a little muscle! Just take your time and be gentle.
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out just a tad. While diving this deep with the pick won't cause any harm, it might leave some sticky adhesive residue on the LCD. Keep it cool and clean as you go!
- While you're warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start peeling off the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, working your way along and loosening up the adhesive as you go.
Tools Used
Step 13
Sometimes you'll need to slide the heated iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad while peeling off the adhesive. How long the iPad has had to chill out will decide if this move is needed.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently 'rolling' it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.
Tools Used
Step 14
- Before you pull out that first pick from the bottom corner, go ahead and slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This keeps the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
- Give your iOpener another warm-up, then move it to the top edge of the iPad. A little extra heat never hurts!
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case with screws and a cable. Be cautious as you work with it—getting too carried away could lead to some serious damage to the antenna. Take it slow and steady!
- Okay, we're getting into the tricky part, so take a deep breath and let's proceed with care!
- Now, you’ll need to carefully detach the antenna from the front panel, but be super gentle! Avoid messing with the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow these steps closely, and you’ll be just fine!
Step 16
Don't slide the pick past the bottom right corner! Going too far might mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently run that trusty opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, freeing up the adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna lurking near the corner — it’s easy to nick if the adhesive gives way too quickly!
Don’t yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just slide it out a bit so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked under the glass.
- Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna in place.
Step 18
- After you’ve moved past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide that opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to release the sticky adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and cabled to the bottom of the iPad. This step safely detaches it from the front panel so you can remove the panel without causing any damage.
Step 19
Heat up that iOpener for just a minute at a time, and remember to give it a little breather for at least two minutes before you heat it up again. Keep it cool and steady!
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, give your iOpener another warm-up to soften the glue right where you need it.
- Keep gently loosening the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad. When you reach the home button, carefully pull the opening pick out just enough to slide it around, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) deep to keep things moving smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, slide the pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep peeling away that adhesive along the bottom edge of your iPad—you're almost there!
- Once you've got a good spot, slide that opening pick underneath the front glass near the home button and let it chill there for a bit.
Step 21
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave and place it on the left edge of the iPad to help soften the adhesive in that area.
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep at it. And if your iOpener feels chilly, give it a quick reheating to get it back in action.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is seriously stubborn, so you might need to apply some solid pressure. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or accidental scrapes.
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive feels nicely warmed up, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for a bit of ease. But if it’s still holding on tight, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and keep it on the left edge while you work your magic.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. Just take your time, you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 24
Heads up! The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. Stop sliding your pick once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to avoid any oops moments.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, letting it free the adhesive as you go. It's a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer stretching along that edge. Just remember to keep the pick at a max depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to that digitizer. You've got this!
Step 25
The lower part of the digitizer cable is just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. So, take your time and be gentle—let's avoid cutting that cable!
- With your trusty opening pick nestled under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently pry it up to free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You're doing great!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to play sticky again. If that happens, carefully slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding tight and gently 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wiggle it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then pinch it between your fingers to lift it up.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky glue still hanging on, and carefully slide an opening pick under the front panel to gently slice through any stubborn adhesive holding it in place.
- Grip your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device.
- When putting everything back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a good clean, removing any dust or fingerprints before you seal it up with the glass.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that keep the LCD glued to the rear case—easy does it!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care and don’t try to fully detach it from the iPad just yet—the display data cable is still connected while you gently flip it over.
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked right under the LCD. To get to them, gently flip the LCD over and move it aside for a moment.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case, just like you're turning a page in your favorite book.
- Now, place the LCD face down on the front panel and get ready for the next step!
Step 30
- If it's there, gently use a pair of tweezers to peel away the tape that's covering the end of the front-facing camera cable. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Grab your spudger and gently wedge the flat end underneath the connector. Pry it upwards to lift it out of its socket on the control board.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently work it under the front-facing camera cable to loosen it from the adhesive holding it to the control board.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Gently lift the front-facing camera away from the foam adhesive that's holding it snugly against the rear case.
- Now, go ahead and take out the front-facing camera!
Step 34
Remember, you're lifting the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Keep it steady and gentle!
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable’s ZIF socket and flip it up.
Tools Used
Step 35
- Carefully pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out using a pair of tweezers. You've got this!
- Gently bend the cable to tuck it away safely. Keep it out of trouble!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently scrape away any leftover foam adhesive hanging out in the front-facing camera socket. It's like tidying up your space for a fresh start!
Tools Used
Step 37
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the microphone cable assembly away from the case edge to free it from its adhesive grip. No rush, just a smooth push!
Tools Used
Step 38
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse and check out our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on like a pro.
