iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 33 Steps
Is your rear-facing camera giving you trouble? Don't let your cat's wild moments go unseen. Follow this simple guide to swap out that broken camera and keep your phone ready for those epic pet videos. Need extra hands? If you get stuck, feel free to schedule a repair.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener is getting stuck, it could overheat and cause some serious issues. Keep it spinning for a trouble-free cook!
Before diving in, give your microwave a quick clean. Any stubborn grime on the bottom could end up hitching a ride on your iOpener, and nobody wants that!
- Pop that iOpener right in the center of the microwave and let it warm up like a cozy blanket!
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Step 2
Watch out for the heat! We want the iOpener to work its magic, not burst into a dramatic scene. Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth repair.
If the iOpener looks like it's been hitting the gym and is all swollen, steer clear! Safety first.
Still feeling the heat in the middle? No worries, just take a little break and let it cool down before giving it another go. A well-heated iOpener can keep things toasty for about 10 minutes!
Keep in mind that the heating time for your microwave may vary based on its wattage. The iOpener is good to go when it's just shy of too hot to handle!
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you tackle your repair adventure, keep an eye on that iOpener. When it starts to cool down, give it another thirty seconds in the microwave to keep the warmth flowing.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets pretty hot, so handle with care. If you're worried about burning your hands, grab an oven mitt and stay safe!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the flat ends—avoid the hot middle like it’s a hot potato!
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Step 4
The iOpener gets super toasty, so remember to handle it by the end tabs only. Keep those fingers safe!
If you don't have a microwave handy, no worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to heat it up.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.
- Gently place the iOpener into the hot water, making sure it’s fully dipped in, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes.
- Use tongs to carefully fish out the warm iOpener from the water.
- Give it a good dry-off with a towel so it’s ready to go.
- When you need it heated up again, just repeat: boil water, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener sit in the hot water for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
- If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you dive into the repair.
- Cover the iPad's screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is secure.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, and you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.
Safety first! Pop on those safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and take extra care around that fragile LCD screen – it’s more delicate than you think!
Keeping those glass shards in check is key! It helps to keep everything nice and tidy, and ensures the display stays in one piece while you gently pry and lift it. Safety first, smooth repairs second!
Step 6
You'll be dealing with some broken glass in this step, so make sure to rock those safety glasses. They’ll keep you safe from any stray shards, and hey, they might even make you look like a repair pro!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad. Make sure it's smoothed out and in full contact with the surface of your device.
- Let the iOpener hang out on your iPad for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you dive in and try to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Stay cool, be patient, and gently wiggle that tool back and forth to ease it in without any drama.
- You'll notice a small gap in the adhesive ring in the upper right corner of your iPad, about 2 inches (5 cm) from the top. This is where you'll start working your magic.
- Grab your tool and line it up with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack is all you need.
Step 8
- Place the tool carefully between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. It’s like finding the perfect spot to slide in a bookmark — just a little nudge, and you’re all set!
Step 9
- Keep the plastic opening tool’s tip snug between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 11
- As you're peeling off the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener another heat session. Place it back on the bottom edge to make sure it’s nice and warm.
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Step 12
This adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a little muscle. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick sneaking out from under the front glass, just give it a little tug back. Using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might spread some sticky adhesive onto the LCD.
- As the iOpener warms up that bottom edge, let’s get to work on loosening up the adhesive on the right side of your iPad.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, releasing that sticky stuff as you go along.
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Step 13
As you peel back the adhesive, you might need to move the heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad. Whether or not you need to do this depends on how much time the iPad has had to cool down while you were working on it. Keep an eye on it, and if it feels like it’s cooled too much, just give it another quick heat-up.
- If the opening pick gets caught up in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to help release the sticky stuff. Keep going until it's all free and clear.
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Step 14
- Before you pop that first pick out of the bottom corner of your iPad, sneak a second one under the right edge of the front glass. This will keep the adhesive from making a comeback.
- Give that iOpener a little reheat, and then move it to the top edge of your iPad for the next step.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Given how the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned, it's super important to handle this part with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some lasting damage to it. Let's keep that antenna happy and healthy!
- Okay, now it's time to be extra careful. This next step requires a steady hand.
- Gently release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna in place, making sure not to damage the delicate bits attached to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the steps closely, and you'll be golden.
Step 16
Heads up! Don’t push the pick past the bottom right corner or you might accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it chill and steady!
- Gently work the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break the adhesive seal. It’s like giving your iPad a little nudge, just to get things moving.
Step 17
Be careful as you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel! The Wi-Fi antenna is pretty close to the corner, and it’s a delicate little thing that can get cut if the adhesive is not handled just right.
Just a friendly reminder: don't fully pull out the pick from beneath the front glass. Give it a gentle tug, leaving about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked under there. You've got this!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad. You'll hear that satisfying pop as it breaks the adhesive seal, letting you access the Wi-Fi antenna with ease.
Step 18
- After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" (75 mm) in from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide your opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step separates the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Keep your iOpener heating sessions to under a minute, and give it a chill-out period of at least two minutes before firing it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just give your iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up and keep the glue nice and soft while you work.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. When you reach the home button, slide the opening pick out just enough to go around it, then pop the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep to keep the job moving smoothly.
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Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad until it's all gone! You're doing great!
- Once you've got that adhesive out of the way, slide the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and leave it there for now.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a little warmth session, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help get that adhesive nice and toasty in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. And if the iOpener itself isn’t feeling warm enough, give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive in this area is pretty sturdy, so don’t be shy about using some muscle. Just take your time and be cautious—no one wants a slip-up that could lead to a mishap with your iPad.
- If your opening pick seems to be getting stuck in the adhesive, try 'rolling' the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for a little more wiggle room. But if it's still feeling a bit clingy, just give that iOpener another heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you do your thing.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Just pause your pick action when you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, and you'll be golden!
- Gently glide that opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, freeing the adhesive as you go along. The adhesive is a bit thinner on this side thanks to the digitizer hanging out there. Just keep the pick no deeper than about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You've got this!
Step 25
Careful there! The digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take it nice and slow, and keep an eye out to avoid cutting this cable. You've got this!
- Slide the opening pick, still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad, and gently peel back the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You've got this!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to play sticky again. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still clinging on and carefully "cut" through the adhesive to free it.
- Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it's popped up, use your fingers to hold it in place like a pro.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be clinging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive that's keeping the front panel snug. You're doing great!
- Grip your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist the front glass away from the device. You've got this!
- When putting everything back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a little TLC by removing any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal it up with the glass.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws that are holding the LCD tight against the rear case. Let's get that screen free!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, and remember, it's not going anywhere! Keep it connected while you gently rotate it over—no need for any acrobatics here.
The front panel's ribbon cables are tucked right under the LCD. To get to them, just flip the LCD gently over and out of the way for a moment.
- Gently lift the LCD from its long edge nearest to the volume buttons, and carefully flip it out of the rear case—just like flipping a page in your favorite book.
- Once you've done that, lay the LCD face down on the front panel, and you're all set!
Step 30
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pop off that rubber cover from the rear-facing camera housing. Easy does it!
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Step 31
- Unscrew the lone 3.3 mm Phillips screw holding the rear-facing camera metal retainer clip in place. You've got this!
Step 32
Make sure that the little thermal pad is snugly attached to the metal retaining clip, just like you see in the third picture, when you're swapping out the rear-facing camera. You've got this!
- Gently raise the metal retainer clip for the rear-facing camera straight up and out of its cozy spot in the rear case. You've got this!
Step 33
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps backward and check out our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to get that front panel snapped in perfectly. And hey, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair with us!
