iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Volume and Power Button Cable Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 50 Steps
Ready to replace the volume and power button cable assembly on your iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560? This part also houses the sensor that detects the magnet in your Smart Cover. Let's get that assembly swapped out smoothly! If things get tricky, don’t worry—you can always schedule a repair and let the pros handle the tough stuff.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
Give your microwave a quick wipe down before you start—no one wants leftover gunk hitching a ride on the iOpener!
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of your microwave!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on the iOpener's temperature—overheating it can make it pop like a balloon! Never heat it above 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, hands off—don’t touch it.
If the iOpener is still too toasty in the middle to handle, just keep it on while it cools down a bit more before reheating. When heated just right, it should stay warm for about 10 minutes.
Microwave wattages vary, so your heating time might need a little tweak. Your iOpener is ready to roll when it’s just a tad too hot to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to heat it up.
- As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener in the game by reheating it every 30 seconds. Just pop it back in the microwave when it cools down!
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle it with care. Oven mitts or a thick towel are your best friends here.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the flat ends—steer clear of the hot center to keep your fingers safe and sound.
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Step 4
Caution! The iOpener is going to be sizzling hot, so make sure to grab it only by those handy end tabs. Stay safe and keep your cool!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener in some boiling water and you’re good to go.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully submerge your iOpener.
- Heat up the water until it's boiling hot. Then, turn off the heat.
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to pull the iOpener out of the water (be careful, it's hot!).
- Dry the iOpener thoroughly with a towel so it's good to go.
- All set! If you need to heat it again, just repeat the process – boil the water, turn off the heat, and submerge the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen with care – you don’t want to accidentally give it a scratch!
This step helps keep the glass shards in check while giving the display the support it needs when you're prying and lifting. Stay cool and steady, you've got this!
- If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep the chaos contained! Grab some tape and make sure to cover that glass to avoid any further mishaps and keep yourself safe while you work.
- Layer on those clear packing tape strips over your iPad's display, overlapping them until the entire surface is protected. It’s like giving your device a cozy blanket!
- Now, follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up—once that glass is broken, it might want to keep cracking. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the shattered pieces. If it gets too tricky, remember that you can always schedule a repair.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be handling some broken glass here, it's a smart move to rock some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing trouble.
- Place the iOpener snugly on the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it makes nice contact with the surface. Let's get cozy!
- Give it a little time—about 90 seconds should do the trick—before you dive in to open that front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that tool into place might take a little effort—don’t worry, that’s totally normal! Just gently wiggle the plastic opening tool back and forth, and with a bit of patience, you'll have it where you need it. Slow and steady wins the race!
- In the upper right corner of your iPad, there's a little gap in the adhesive ring, about 2 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let's take advantage of that sneaky spot!
- Next, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there to widen that crack a bit.
Step 8
- Carefully wedge the tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—getting in the perfect spot is key!
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snug between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Gently slide the plastic opening tool away from the iPad, then ease the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—like a pro!
Step 11
- As you work on gently peeling back the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat party and then place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Step 12
This adhesive is tough stuff, so get ready to flex those muscles—but take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of your trusty opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out just a smidge. While diving this deep with the pick won't cause any harm, it might leave some sticky adhesive residue on your LCD. Keep it cool and carry on!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently peeling the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down along the edge, loosening the adhesive bit by bit.
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Step 13
As you peel away that stubborn adhesive, you might find it helpful to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. The timing on this can be a bit tricky, so keep an eye on how long the iPad has had to cool while you've been busy working on it.
- If your trusty opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the iPad's side to help it break free and keep that adhesive at bay!
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again and shift it to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up there.
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given its position, it's super important to handle it with care—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. Let's keep it safe and sound!
- Alright, folks! Time to tread lightly on this next part.
- You'll need to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super careful not to mess with the sensitive bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the upcoming steps closely, and you'll do great!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don't slide that pick too far past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we wouldn't want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
Carefully slide your opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna hanging out near the corner—it’s super easy to cut if you’re not gentle with the adhesive!
Just a little tip: don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass! Pull it out just enough so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip is still snugly under there.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, easing up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time – patience is key here.
Step 18
- After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so you can lift the panel without causing any damage.
Step 19
Don't overdo it with the heat! Warm up the iOpener for just one minute at a time, and give it a little break for at least two minutes before you heat it up again. Patience is key!
If the adhesive at the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just heat up the iOpener again to warm up the sticky stuff where you’re working.
- Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive at the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button, then pop it back in to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you've passed that home button. You've got this!
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Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in no deeper than about half an inch (10 mm) in this area to keep the home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep peeling away that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
- Once you're there, slide an opening pick right under the front glass near the home button to keep it open.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help to soften up the adhesive in that area, making your job a whole lot easier!
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, simply replace the iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If it’s not as warm as you’d like, just give it a quick reheat and carry on!
- Slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, gently nudging it around the front-facing camera bracket. A little nudge goes a long way here!
- The adhesive in this section is pretty thick, so you might need to apply some extra pressure. Take your time and be careful, we don't want any slips or scratches on your iPad.
- If the pick gets caught in the adhesive, try 'rolling' it as shown in step 9. It'll help the pick glide through more smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still holding on tight, just heat up the iOpener again and rest it on the left edge while you continue working.
- Keep peeling away that sticky stuff along the top edge of the iPad, and carefully slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is tucked in about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Slide your pick carefully until you reach around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. Keep it steady, you're almost there!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive as you go. This area has a thin adhesive because of the digitizer running down the entire left side. Keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (about 10mm) to avoid damaging the digitizer. Take your time—patience is key here!
Step 25
The digitizer cable is really close to the bottom of the iPad—about 1 inch (25 mm) away. Take your time here and go slow to avoid accidentally cutting the cable. Patience is key!
- Grab that opening pick you’ve got tucked under the iPad’s bottom edge and gently wiggle it to break the adhesive seal along the bottom-left corner. Easy does it!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might have decided to stick around a little longer than expected. No worries! Just slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding on tight and gently 'cut' through that adhesive. You've got this!
- Grab one of the opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it's lifted, use your fingers to hold it in place and keep the momentum going.
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging around! Use an opening pick to gently slice through any leftover adhesive that's keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently rotate the front glass away from the device like you're opening a book. Easy does it!
- When putting things back together, take a microfiber cloth and give the LCD a quick wipe-down to remove any dust or smudges. A blast of compressed air will do wonders too before you seal up that glass.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD to the rear case—time to loosen things up gently!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care as you wiggle it around, but remember—don't try to detach it from the iPad! The display data cable will still be hanging on while you give it a little spin.
The front panel ribbon cables hide right under the LCD. To reach them, gently flip the LCD over and set it aside temporarily. Easy peasy!
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and give it a little flip out of the rear case—think of it as turning a page in your favorite book.
- Now, carefully place the LCD face down on the front panel, just like laying a cozy blanket over a couch.
Step 30
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully lift the rubber cover off the rear-facing camera housing. A gentle touch goes a long way here!
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Step 31
- Unscrew the lone 3.3 mm Phillips screw holding the rear-facing camera metal retainer clip in place. Let's get that little guy out of the way!
Step 32
Make sure that the little thermal pad is snugly attached to the metal retaining clip just like you see in the third picture when swapping out the rear-facing camera. You've got this!
- Gently lift the rear-facing camera metal retainer clip straight up from its spot in the rear case—easy does it!
Step 33
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently nudge the rear-facing camera connector out of its snug little home on the control board. It’s like giving it a little lift to say, 'Time to come out!'
- Now, go ahead and carefully remove the rear-facing camera. You've got this!
Step 34
- Unscrew the lone 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the camera bracket in place.
Step 35
- Carefully pop off the plastic camera bracket to keep moving forward.
Step 36
- Gently use the pointy end of your spudger to flip up the little retaining tab on the button cable's ZIF connector.
- Carefully pull the button cable straight out from its socket on the upper component board.
Step 37
- Time to unscrew the volume/power button assembly cable! Grab your screwdriver and start by removing:
- Two 3.0 mm Phillips #000 screws angled at 45º holding down the power button bracket.
- Next, take out two 5.0 mm Phillips #000 screws.
- Finally, remove one 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw, also at a 45º angle.
Step 38
- Take off the metal bracket that’s holding down the rotation lock/silent switch—let’s get this part out of the way!
Step 39
- Gently lift the power button cable out of its cozy spot in the back case and fold it aside so it’s out of your way.
- Remember, the ribbon cable holds the actual mechanical button that needs to line up perfectly with the plastic button cover that’s still attached to the case.
Step 40
- Carefully use the tip of an opening pick to lift the Smart Cover sleep/wake sensor away from the back case without rushing it.
Step 41
Keep that bracket in place—it’s still holding on tight to the button ribbon cable!
- Gently use the center screw hole of the volume control bracket to nudge it out towards the edge of the case, then lift it up and free it from its snug little home.
Step 42
- Gently lift the connector end of the button cable away from the rear case.
- Pause your peeling action before you reach the spot where the cable splits off to the volume buttons.
Step 43
- Gently detach the button cable assembly from the back case to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 44
If your replacement part has those nifty metal button brackets already attached, you can breeze right past the next steps!
- Gently remove the power button from its bracket – it’s like giving it a little vacation!
- Pay attention to how it’s positioned and where the sticky stuff is for when it’s time to put everything back together.
Step 45
- Slide the tip of an opening pick between the rotation lock/silent switch and its bracket to break the adhesive connection there.
Step 46
- Carefully slide the opening pick under the last bit of the rotation lock/silent switch to gently lift it off the button bracket.
Step 47
- Grab that trusty opening pick and gently nudge the mechanical volume buttons away from their cozy bracket home. They're ready for some freedom!
- Now, let's take the cable assembly for those buttons and carefully detach it from the bracket. It's all part of the journey!
Step 48
Here’s the scoop on how to pop off the button covers from the back of your iPad. If you’re just swapping out the button cable, feel free to keep those button covers right where they are!
- Let's get started by gently taking out the sleep/power button from the rear case. Easy peasy!
- Make sure you remember how it all goes back together! The metal spring bar should be oriented to drop down toward the rear of the case. You've got this!
Step 49
- First things first, let’s get that rotation lock/silent switch off the rear case. It’s like unlocking a treasure chest—just a little twist and turn!
- Keep an eye on how everything is oriented for when you put it all back together. The mechanical switch needs to fit snugly with the button cover, so ensure they’re ready to team up perfectly!
Step 50
- Now it's time to put your device back together like a pro! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse. If you find yourself stuck or in need of a helping hand, feel free to schedule a repair with us.
