iPad 3 4G Headphone Jack Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Follow this step-by-step guide to swap out a busted headphone jack board on your third generation iPad (yes, the one with the headphone jack). Let’s get your sound back to awesome!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without a hitch. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
Before you start, it’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean—no one wants leftover gunk hitching a ride on the iOpener!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave for a quick warm-up.
Tools Used
Step 2
Take care not to overheat the iOpener during your repair—pushing it past 100˚C (212˚F) might cause it to pop like a balloon.
If the iOpener looks puffy or swollen, keep your fingers away!
If it’s still too hot in the center to handle, keep using it gently while it cools down a bit before reheating. When heated just right, it should stay warm for about 10 minutes.
Microwave wattage varies, so heating times might change a bit. Your iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on comfortably.
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!
- During your repair adventure, remember to reheat the iOpener in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. Keep the warmth flowing!
Tools Used
Step 3
The iOpener gets super hot, so handle with care! Slip on an oven mitt if you're feeling extra cautious.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle to keep your fingers happy.
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
If you don’t have a microwave handy, no worries! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener in some boiling water.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully immerse your iOpener.
- Heat that water up to a boil, then turn off the heat once it’s bubbling away.
- Now, carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it's completely submerged so it can soak up the heat.
- Using tongs (or something that keeps your hands safe), pull the iOpener out of the water.
- Give the iOpener a good dry-off with a towel, and you're all set!
- Your iOpener’s ready for action! If you need to heat it up again, just repeat the process—bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener relax in there for another 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or an unfolded paperclip, and gently pop out the SIM tray like a pro. It’s that simple!
Step 6
- Gently slide the SIM tray out from its cozy little spot and give it a friendly wave as you remove it from the iPad.
- If you're swapping out the SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one. You're doing great!
Step 7
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and maintain the screen's structural strength while you’re gently prying and lifting the display. A little extra care goes a long way!
- If your display glass is cracked, keep any further shattering in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you start.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it's fully sealed.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the broken glass out.
Step 8
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that while you’re tackling this repair, you might encounter some broken glass. To keep your eyes safe from any sneaky shards, we highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses. Better safe than sorry, right?
- Place the iOpener flat on the right side of your iPad. Give it a little smoothing action to make sure it’s making good contact with the surface.
- Let the iOpener hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you try opening up the front panel. Patience is key!
Tools Used
Step 9
Getting the plastic opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Don’t rush it! Gently wiggle the tool back and forth to work it in. Patience is key here—take your time and stay steady!
- You'll notice a tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the top right corner, about 2.0 inches (roughly 5 cm) down from the top. Time to use that gap to your advantage!
- Grab your plastic opening tool and align it with the mute button. Gently insert the tip of the tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just enough to give that crack a little nudge – don't go overboard, just widen it slightly.
Step 10
- Ensure you slide that tool right into the sweet spot—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 11
- Place the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Then, slide a plastic pick into the gap, right beside your tool. It’s a smooth move that gets the job done!
Step 12
- Take out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick under the front glass to about half an inch deep. Keep it steady and let's make some progress!
Step 13
- As you're working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener another warm-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 14
This adhesive is tough stuff—get ready to apply some serious muscle, but take it slow and steady!
If you can sneak a peek at the tip of the opening pick just under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While diving this deep with the pick won’t cause any harm, it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a friendly heads-up!
- As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, it's time to tackle that stubborn adhesive on the right edge of the iPad. Let's get this party started!
- Grab your opening pick and slide it down the edge of the iPad. Keep that momentum going as you free the adhesive, and you'll be on your way to a successful repair!
Tools Used
Step 15
Sometimes you'll want to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. How long the iPad has been cooling while you work will decide if this move is needed.
- If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just roll it along the side of the iPad to gently release the sticky stuff. Keep it moving and you'll be golden.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.
Tools Used
Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right edge of the rear case with screws and a cable. Be mindful of its orientation when handling, as a little slip-up could result in some not-so-repairable damage. Take your time and be gentle, and you’ll be golden!
- Alright, folks, it’s time to tread lightly! These next steps are all about finesse.
- You’ll need to gently free the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, all while ensuring the delicate connections to the bottom of the iPad remain unscathed. So, take a deep breath and follow these steps with care!
Step 18
Keep the pick chill and don’t push it past the bottom right corner — going further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and that’s a no-go.
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to break through the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 19
As you glide that opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep in mind that the Wi-Fi antenna is sneaky close to the corner. If you let the adhesive loose in the wrong way, you might just give it a little haircut! So, handle with care and keep it smooth sailing.
Gently pull the pick out from under the front glass, but leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still tucked underneath. No need to completely remove it just yet.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the iPad’s bottom edge, making sure to loosen the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time, and you’ll have it in no time!
Step 20
- Once you're past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick back in, all the way to its full depth.
- Now, gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive that holds the Wi-Fi antenna in place on the front glass.
- The antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step will detach it from the front panel, so when you remove the panel, the antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 21
Keep your iOpener chill by heating it for no more than a minute at a time, then give it a solid two minutes to cool down before firing it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled off too much, give the iOpener another quick heat-up to warm things back up where you're working.
- Keep on gently peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad. As you do this, slide that handy opening pick around the home button, then push it back in about half an inch (10 mm) after you've passed the button. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 22
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this spot to avoid any mishaps with the home button ribbon cable. Take it slow and steady!
- Carefully peel off the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad—take your time, it's all about that smooth, steady pull.
- Keep the opening pick snugly under the front glass, just near the home button, to keep things in place while you work.
Step 23
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave to get it nice and toasty, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making your repair journey a little smoother!
Tools Used
Step 24
If the adhesive has cooled off too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself has cooled down, give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful to avoid any slips or scrapes on you or your device.
- If the pick gets stuck in the sticky stuff, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 25
If your adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for a bit—it's all about convenience! But if it’s still clinging on like a friendly koala, give the iOpener another quick heat-up, and then place it on the left edge while you get to work.
- Peel away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad and gently work your opening pick around the top left corner. Take your time – it’s like a mini adventure for your device!
Tools Used
Step 26
The digitizer cable is about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, stop sliding the pick. Keep it steady, you've got this!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up: the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any oops moments with the digitizer.
Step 27
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to avoid any accidental snips.
- With the opening pick still tucked under the iPad's bottom edge, gently work your way to free up the adhesive along the bottom-left corner.
Step 28
Sometimes the adhesive around the edges of your iPad might stick back down, which can make things a little tricky. If that's the case, grab a pick and carefully slide it under the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck. Give it a little nudge to 'cut' through that adhesive and keep going!
- Use one of your opening picks to gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s loose, grab it with your fingers and carefully pull it up.
Step 29
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on! Use an opening pick to carefully slice through it, and gently lift the front panel free.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the device. It’s like giving your iPad a little stretch!
- When putting everything back together, whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to blast away any pesky dust or fingerprints on the LCD before you pop that glass back on.
Step 30
- Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame. A little twist here and there, and you’re on your way!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! The ribbon cable is delicate and can snap if you bend it too much. Take it slow and steady!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad.
- Carefully swivel the LCD around its left edge and rest it face-up on the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Gently use the tip of your spudger to lift up the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. Keep it smooth and steady!
Tools Used
Step 33
- Gently lift the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.
- Carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its spot on the logic board using your fingers or a pair of tweezers.
- If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try a force restart by holding down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until the Apple logo appears.
Step 34
- Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure not to touch the screen. Take your time and be careful!
Step 35
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift off the piece of tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable in place. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Lift up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the touchscreen ribbon cables.
Step 37
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pry up the adhesive hiding under the digitizer ribbon cable.
- Carefully slide the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully lift the adhesive that's keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. Take it slow, you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently use your fingers to pull the touchscreen ribbon cable out from its snug little home in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully remove the front panel from your iPad. It should come off without too much fuss, just give it a little nudge.
Step 40
- Carefully peel back and remove the electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector—almost like unveiling a tiny secret.
- Use the tip of your trusty spudger to gently flip up the locking flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to gently break the adhesive bond holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
- Gently pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 42
- Peel off the tape that’s hiding the SIM board cable ZIF connector – it’s ready to be revealed.
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector – think of it as unlocking a treasure chest.
- Grab your spudger and carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 43
- Start by unscrewing the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board in place on the aluminum frame.
Step 44
When moving the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, take it easy! Pull gently—if you tug too hard, you could risk tearing the jack off. Patience is key!
- Gently tuck the headphone jack assembly cable aside, then carefully lift the SIM board out of the iPad.
Step 45
- Gently peel off the adhesive tape that's covering the headphone jack assembly. Take your time, and remember, patience is key!
Step 46
- Loosen up by removing the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable onto the headphone jack assembly.
Step 47
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera away from its socket on the headphone jack assembly.
- Keep that spudger in place, then slide it to the right to let go of the adhesive that's keeping the camera cable stuck down.
Tools Used
Step 48
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
- Now, carefully slide the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable, and ease it out of the ZIF connector. No pressure, just a gentle touch.
- Take your spudger and glide it to the left to release the adhesive holding that microphone cable in place on the headphone jack assembly. Smooth and steady!
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the antenna connector cable out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly board. No rush, just a little wiggle and you’ll be good to go!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Lift the little flap that’s keeping the volume/power button ribbon cable connected to the headphone jack assembly board. It’s like unlocking a tiny secret compartment!
- Gently pull the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector. It’s a delicate operation, so take it slow and steady.
Step 51
These screws are angled into the aluminum frame. Make sure your screwdriver is aligned perfectly with the screw to keep everything tight and avoid any stripped threads. Just a little finesse and you're good to go!
- Alright, let's get those screws out of the way! Here's what you need to unscrew from the headphone jack assembly:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 52
- Grab the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and gently pull it toward the bottom of the iPad, making sure to keep it parallel to the device. Take it slow and steady, you'll get there!
Step 53
- Alright, it's time to gently grab the headphone jack assembly with both hands and give it a careful pull away from the iPad. Keep an eye on any cables that might try to sneak into the action and get stuck!
Step 54
- Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently work it under the rear-facing camera. Lift it out of its socket on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 55
- The headphone jack board is still in place.
