iPad 3 4G Power & Volume Button Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 67 Steps
Having a hard time getting your iPad to wake up or crank up the volume? No worries! This guide will help you swap out that Power & Volume Button ribbon cable in the third generation iPad with ease. Let's get this device back in action!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate has room to spin like it's on a dance floor! If your iOpener starts to feel a little too cozy and gets stuck, it could overheat and cause some serious trouble. Keep things moving smoothly!
Before you start, give your microwave a quick clean—any leftover gunk at the bottom might sneak onto the iOpener and make things messy.
- Pop the iOpener right in the center of the microwave to get it warmed up and ready to go.
Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventures. We want to avoid any overheating situations that could lead to a burst. Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffed up, steer clear of touching it. Safety first!
If the center of your iOpener is still too hot to handle, no worries! Just keep using it while it cools down a bit before you reheat. A well-heated iOpener should stay nice and warm for up to 10 minutes.
Microwave power levels vary, so you might need to adjust the time a bit. The iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready.
- As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.
Step 3
Careful now! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might just be your best buddy here!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Stay cool and safe!
Step 4
Careful now, the iOpener can get pretty toasty! Make sure to grab it by the end tabs only.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by placing it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
- Turn up the heat and get that water boiling, then switch off the stove.
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the steamy water for about 2-3 minutes, making sure it's completely immersed.
- Use tongs to fish out the heated iOpener from the bubbling water—don't forget to be careful, it's hot stuff!
- Give the iOpener a good towel dry; we want it nice and cozy for its next task.
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth later, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, switch off the heat, and let it chill in the water for another 2-3 minutes.
Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or a trusty uncoiled paperclip and give that SIM tray a little push to pop it out like a champ!
Step 6
- Gently pull the SIM tray out from its slot and take it out of the iPad.
- If you're swapping the SIM card, pop the old one out of the tray and slide the new one in.
Step 7
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and handle that LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This helps keep those pesky glass shards in one place and adds some extra strength when you’re prying and lifting the screen.
- Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards from going wild and avoid any ouch moments by taping up the glass first.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up snug.
- Stick to the guide as best as you can, but heads up—once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go. You may need to carefully pry out the glass pieces using a metal tool.
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: while you're getting into the nitty-gritty of this repair, you might be dealing with some sharp glass bits. So, pop on those safety glasses to keep those peepers safe from any sneaky shards that might fly your way!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it hugs the surface nicely for maximum heat transfer.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pop open the front panel.
Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a little muscle! Take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a bit of a wiggle as needed. You've got this!
- Check it out! There's a sneaky little gap in the iPad's adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (or ~5 cm) from the top. Let's take advantage of this little flaw.
- Get ready to align your trusty tool with the mute button! Gently insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just slide in the very tip—enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 10
- Be sure to position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 11
- With the plastic opening tool snugly nestled between the front glass and the plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to your trusty tool. You're doing great!
Step 12
- Carefully pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch.
Step 13
- As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, don't forget to give your iOpener a little heat boost and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Step 14
This adhesive is tough stuff, so you might need to bring your A-game and some serious muscle. Take your time and be careful!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a tad. While it's totally fine to have the pick this deep without causing any harm, just a heads up—it might leave some adhesive goo on the LCD. Keep it neat and tidy!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, peeling away the adhesive bit by bit as you go.
Step 15
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad when peeling away the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been cooling while you were busy working your magic.
- If the opening pick gets a bit cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive releasing like a champ.
Step 16
- Before you pop the first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again and place it at the top edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive there.
Step 17
Hey there! Just a heads-up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Given the way it's positioned, you'll want to be extra careful during this step—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious harm to the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time and be gentle!
- Alright, here's where you need to be extra careful. We’re getting into the tricky part.
- Take your time with this step—you need to free the antenna from the front panel without causing any damage. The antenna's delicate connections at the bottom of the iPad need some TLC. Follow the next steps closely and stay focused.
Step 18
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner—going further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and that’s not the kind of damage we want!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive holding it in place. You've got this!
Step 19
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, carefully lifting off the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time—it's all about finesse!
Take it easy and gently guide your opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Just a heads-up—the Wi-Fi antenna is tucked right near the corner, so a little extra care will keep you from accidentally cutting it if the adhesive lets go too quickly.
Don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass. Just gently pull it out a tiny bit, leaving about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still snug under the glass. This way, you'll have enough leverage to move forward without any drama!
Step 20
- Once you've bypassed the Wi-Fi antenna (it's about 3" or 75mm from the right edge, right by the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
- Slide the pick to the right, and you'll hear the satisfying release of the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is fastened to the iPad's bottom with screws and a cable. By detaching it from the front panel now, you'll make sure it stays safe and sound when you lift the panel off.
Step 21
Keep the iOpener heating sessions short—no more than a minute at a time—and give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before firing it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up to soften it right where you’re working.
- Keep sliding that adhesive release tool along the bottom edge of the iPad. Once you get past the home button, pull the pick out far enough to loop around it, then gently pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) deep to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 22
Hey there! When you're working on iPad 4 models, be sure to slide that pick in just halfway—about 1/2 inch (10 mm) max. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of the iPad. You're doing great!
- Now, slide that opening pick right under the front glass close to the home button and let it chill there.
Step 23
- Pop the iOpener into the microwave and give it a quick heat-up. Once it's nice and warm, place it on the left edge of your iPad to get that adhesive starting to loosen up. A little heat goes a long way!
Step 24
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, just pop that iOpener back along the top edge and keep on going! If your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a warm-up and you'll be back in action in no time.
- Gently slide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty tenacious, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any mishaps that could harm both you and your iPad.
- If your opening pick is feeling stuck in that sticky situation, try 'rolling' the pick as illustrated in step 9.
Step 25
If the adhesive feels nice and toasty, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for now. But if it’s still holding on tight, just warm it up again and place it back on the left edge while you keep working your magic.
- Gently peel back the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and then carefully slide the opening pick around the top left corner. Take it slow, no rush!
Step 26
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of the iPad. When you're sliding the pick, pause once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to avoid any oops moments.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up—the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running all along the side. Keep your pick shallow, no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch), to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.
Step 27
The digitizer cable is pretty close to the bottom of the iPad—about 1 inch (25 mm). So, take your time and be gentle with it. A little patience goes a long way here, and we want to avoid any accidental snips. Keep it slow and steady!
- With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently coax the adhesive loose in the bottom left corner. You're doing great!
Step 28
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad likes to play sticky again. If you find the front glass still clinging on, gently slide a pick under the edge where it’s stuck and carefully slice through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad, then snag it with your fingers like a pro.
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be hanging on! Grab your trusty opening pick and carefully slice through any sticky spots that might be keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting things back together, give the LCD a quick once-over with a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to clear away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.
Step 30
- Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame—careful, they’re small but mighty!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care—its ribbon cable is delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and steady!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from your iPad. It’s like lifting the lid off a treasure chest!
- Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest comfortably on top of the front panel. It’s a cozy little spot!
Tools Used
Step 32
- Grab your spudger and gently use the tip to lift that little piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Easy does it—just peel it back with care.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It's a small step, but it matters!
- With a little finesse, either with your fingers or some tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
- If the LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn't light up after you've connected the ZIF connector, just give your iPad a little pep talk! Hold down the power button and home button for at least ten seconds until that Apple logo makes its grand entrance.
Step 34
- Careful now—gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without touching its front side.
Step 35
- Gently use the tip of your trusty spudger to lift up the little piece of tape holding the touchscreen ribbon cable onto the logic board. Take it easy, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Gently lift the little flap on both touchscreen ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.
Step 37
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully break up the adhesive holding it down.
- Once free, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board with a steady hand.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently peel back the touchscreen ribbon cable, then grab a spudger and use its flat end to carefully break the adhesive holding the cable in place on the rear aluminum case. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently use your fingers to pop the touchscreen ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad.
Step 40
- Gently peel back and take off the bit of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
- With the tip of your trusty spudger, flip up the little retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable onto the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 41
- Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger beneath the headphone jack assembly cable. This will help you break free the adhesive that’s been holding it snug to the rear aluminum frame.
- Now, with a steady hand, pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 42
- Carefully peel back the tape that's been keeping the SIM board cable cozy. Time to let it breathe!
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. It's just a little flap, so be nice.
- With the finesse of a spudger master, pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 43
- Unscrew those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board in place. Give them a little twist, and you’re on your way!
Step 44
Gently move the headphone jack assembly cable aside—don’t yank it too hard or you might accidentally rip the headphone jack right off!
- Gently move the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, then carefully lift the SIM board from the iPad.
Step 45
- Carefully peel away the adhesive tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly. You've got this!
Step 46
- Unscrew the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable in place on the headphone jack assembly.
Step 47
- Take the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pop the front-facing camera off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.
- Keep the spudger in place and slide it to the right to break free the adhesive securing the camera cable.
Tools Used
Step 48
- Grab your spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!
- Next, carefully slide the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and pop it out of its ZIF connector. Just like peeling off a sticker.
- Now, slide the spudger to the left to loosen up the adhesive keeping the microphone ribbon cable attached to the headphone jack assembly. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 49
- Take your trusty spudger and gently lift the antenna connector cable out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently flip up the little flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector attached to the headphone jack assembly board.
- Carefully slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector – nice and easy does it!
Step 51
These screws are angled into the aluminum frame, so make sure you're holding your screwdriver straight and aligned with the screw. This way, you'll avoid stripping it and keep everything running smoothly.
- Let's get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly! Here's what you'll need:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 52
- Grab the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and gently pull it straight out, keeping it parallel to the iPad. Ease it down toward the bottom of the device, nice and steady!
Step 53
- With both hands, gently grip the headphone jack assembly and carefully pull it free from the iPad, making sure to avoid any cables that might get tangled along the way.
Step 54
The screws up top are angled into the aluminum frame, so make sure you’re holding that screwdriver nice and steady, lined up with the screw. A little patience goes a long way here!
- Let’s get those screws out so we can move ahead! Unscrew the following screws that are holding the power & volume button cable to the aluminum frame:
- Two 5.5 mm Phillips #0 screws
- One 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
Step 55
- Gently pop off the little plastic cover hiding the volume buttons.
Step 56
This screw is set at an angle into the aluminum frame. Keep your screwdriver perfectly aligned with the screw to avoid any slip-ups.
- Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s keeping the volume button frame glued to the aluminum frame. Steady hands, you got this!
Step 57
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor. Be careful not to hurt the delicate cable underneath.
- Slowly work the plastic tool around the sensor to loosen the adhesive. Take your time, it’ll come off without a hitch.
Step 58
- Gently slide a spudger under those power and volume cables to free them from their sticky situation.
Tools Used
Step 59
- Grab the spudger and use its pointy end (not the wide side!) to carefully lift the adhesive under the volume button's ribbon cable. Take your time and go slow!
Tools Used
Step 60
- Keep sliding the spudger tip upward along the iPad, gently freeing the adhesive as you go.
Tools Used
Step 61
- Keep the spudger tip tucked under the ribbon cable and carefully pop the power button out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
Tools Used
Step 62
- Grab the power & volume button cable with both hands and gently wiggle the volume buttons and lock switch out of their snug spots in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift and slide the power & volume button cable out from the rear aluminum case. Easy does it!
Step 63
- Slide the tip of your plastic opening tool gently under the top edge of the power button.
- Lift the top part of the power button away from its bracket like a pro.
Step 64
- Go ahead and do the same move on the underside of the power button—consistency is key!
- Now, gently lift off the power button bracket from the power & volume button assembly and set it aside.
Step 65
- Slide the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool under the top edge of the rotation lock/mute switch.
- Gently glide the tool downward to pop the top side of the rotation lock/mute switch out of its bracket.
Step 66
- Gently slide the plastic opening tool under the top volume rocker and lift it up to separate it from the volume button bracket. No need to rush, take your time!
- Now, do the same for the bottom volume rocker. A little upward prying and you'll have it free from the bracket. Nice and easy!
Step 67
- Now that you've got everything back together, just reverse those steps and enjoy your revitalized device! If you hit any snags along the way, don't hesitate to schedule a repair for some extra help.
