iPad 3 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
When the stunning Retina display on your third-gen iPad stops working, it can feel like a real buzzkill. But don't worry, this guide will help you get your iPad back to its pixel-perfect glory.
Step 1
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave for a quick warm-up.
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without any hitches. If your iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and cause some serious damage. Keep it moving for smooth heating!
Before diving in, we suggest giving your microwave a quick clean. That way, you won't end up with any leftover gunk getting stuck to your iOpener. A little tidying goes a long way!
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Step 2
Don't go overboard heating the iOpener—too hot and it could burst. Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If the iOpener looks like it's puffed up, avoid touching it.
If it's still too hot to handle, no worries—just give it some time to cool off before re-heating. A properly heated iOpener will stay warm for around 10 minutes.
The cooking time for your microwave may vary based on its wattage. The iOpener is ready to roll when it feels just a tad too warm to touch comfortably.
- Pop the iOpener into the microwave for about thirty seconds. It's like giving it a quick power-up!
- As you go through the steps, the iOpener will cool down. No worries, just toss it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it needs a recharge!
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Step 3
The iOpener gets super hot, so watch out when handling it. If you're worried, grab an oven mitt for extra protection!
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to grab it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that toasty center!
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Step 4
Careful now! The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so make sure to grip it only by the end tabs. Safety first, folks!
If you don’t have a microwave handy, no worries! Just warm up your iOpener by placing it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or a pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
- Turn up the heat and bring that water to a rolling boil. Once it's bubbling away, go ahead and turn off the heat.
- Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully submerged for maximum warmth!
- Using some trusty tongs, fish out the heated iOpener from its spa session in the hot water.
- Give the iOpener a good wipe down with a towel to make sure it's nice and dry.
- And there you have it! Your iOpener is all set and ready to help. If it needs another round of heat, just repeat the water boiling, turning off the heat, and soaking process for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will keep those pesky glass shards in check and give your display the support it needs while you're gently prying and lifting it up. No drama, just smooth and steady!
- If your display glass is cracked, prevent any further damage and avoid hurting yourself by taping up the glass.
- Cover the iPad's screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is protected.
- Try to follow the guide as best as you can. But keep in mind, once the glass starts cracking, it may continue to break as you go. You might need a metal prying tool to carefully remove the pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder, while you're getting your hands dirty with that broken glass, it’s a great idea to rock those safety glasses! They’ll keep those pesky shards from flying your way.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down gently to make sure it’s snug against the surface.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of the opening tool in between the glass and plastic might need a bit of muscle! Take your time and approach it with care, gently wiggling the tool back and forth as needed. You've got this!
- Spot the sneaky little gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. It's your ticket to getting in there and making things right!
- Now, let’s get that tool ready! Line it up with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a tiny poke to start, enough to create a little wiggle room.
Step 8
- Place the tool carefully in the right spot—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You’ve got this!
Step 9
- Gently wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right next to it in the gap to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 10
- Grab that plastic opening tool and carefully remove it from the iPad. Now, gently push the opening pick underneath the front glass, going in about half an inch – just enough to get a good grip and keep moving forward.
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener another round of heat and then pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. Keep going, you're doing great!
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Step 12
The adhesive is super tough, so you might need to bring your A-game and some serious muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick tucked beneath the front glass, gently pull it out just a smidge. Having the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might leave some adhesive gunk on the LCD.
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, let's start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, releasing that stubborn adhesive along the way.
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Step 13
Sometimes you’ll need to slide that heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad while you’re peeling off the adhesive. How long the iPad has cooled down during your work session will decide if a quick reheating move is in order.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy to the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the side of the iPad. Keep at it, and you'll break free that sticky stuff in no time!
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again, then shift it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm for the next step.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is mounted on the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Due to the antenna's position, be extra careful here – a little slip-up could cause permanent damage to the antenna. Take your time, and if you need help, feel free to schedule a repair.
- Alright, we're getting into the tricky part now. Take it slow and steady!
- You're going to need to carefully free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Be super mindful not to damage the delicate parts that attach the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Follow these next steps closely, and you'll be all good!
Step 16
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: Avoid sliding that pick too far into the bottom right corner. You wouldn’t want to accidentally mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, right? Keep it cool and careful!
- Gently slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to release the sticky adhesive that's holding things together.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna near the corner—it’s easy to damage if the adhesive comes loose the wrong way.
Keep the pick tucked just a tiny bit under the front glass—about 1/8" (3 mm)—don’t pull it all the way out. Just enough to keep it cozy under there!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the iPad's bottom edge to release the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 18
- Once you've glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right near the home button), slip the opening pick back in all the way.
- Gently slide that pick to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- Remember, the antenna is snugly connected to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. By doing this step, you're safely detaching the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift it off, the antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 19
Keep it cool, buddy! Don't heat that iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather for at least two minutes before you heat it again. Your gadget will thank you!
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much along the bottom edge, just heat up the iOpener again and warm up the area you're working on. That should get things nice and toasty for a smoother repair!
- Keep on gently working that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Pull the opening pick out just enough to navigate around the home button, then pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you've passed the button. You're doing great!
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Step 20
For those working on iPad 4 models, be sure to slide that pick in just about 1/2 inch (10 mm) at most in this spot. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound, so let's avoid any mishaps while we're at it!
- Keep peeling the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of your iPad. Take your time—smooth and steady wins the race.
- Now, slide the opening pick underneath the front glass near the home button. It should sit there nicely, ready for the next move.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave to give it a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help the adhesive in that area start to soften up, making the next steps a breeze!
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled off a bit too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If it's feeling a little too cold, give it another quick heat-up session and you're good to continue.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little pull to get past the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty thick, so you might need to apply some solid pressure. Just take your time and be careful—no need to rush!
- If the pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it gently, just like we showed in step 9. It'll help get through without a hitch.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and toasty, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it's still feeling a bit clingy, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
- Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable sits about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom edge of the iPad. When you're sliding your pick in, pause once you reach roughly 2.25" (60 mm) from that bottom to avoid any oops moments.
- Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. Remember, the adhesive is a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer hugging the entire left side. Just keep the pick at a shallow depth (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer. You're doing great!
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s edge. Take it slow and steady to keep that cable safe and sound.
- With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently work your magic to loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Some of the glue around the edge of the iPad might have gotten a little clingy again. If that’s the case, gently slide a pick under the part of the front glass that’s still stuck and carefully slice through the adhesive.
- Using one of those nifty opening picks, gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little tug with your fingers. You've got this!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging around! Grab an opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive that could be keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting it back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to keep dust and fingerprints at bay before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
- Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD tight to the aluminum frame. You've got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care—it’s got a delicate ribbon cable that doesn’t like too much bending, so go easy on the flex!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad.
- Carefully swing the LCD open along its left edge and let it rest on top of the front panel.
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Step 30
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that's keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector snug. You've got this!
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Step 31
- Gently flip up the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.
- Carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.
Step 32
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse—easy peasy! And if you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.
