iPad 3 Wi-Fi Rotation Lock/Mute Switch Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 56 Steps
Ready to give your device a little upgrade? Let’s dive in and swap out that rotation lock/mute switch! It’s easier than it sounds, and we’re here to guide you every step of the way. If you run into any tricky spots, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some expert help!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate can spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn—so keep it moving!
Before you start, give your microwave a quick wipe down—no one wants crusty leftovers sticking to the iOpener when you heat it up.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s the star of the show!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. Letting it get too hot can cause it to pop like a balloon! So, keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) to ensure a smooth sailing.
If your iOpener looks a bit puffy, steer clear! It's not a good sign.
Still feeling the heat in the center? No worries! Keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another round of heating. A perfectly warmed iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes!
Microwave wattage varies, so you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. The iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready for the job.
- As you work and the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care! Grab an oven mitt if you need to, and you'll be just fine.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but be sure to grab it from one of the flat ends—stay clear of the super-hot center. Safety first, my friend!
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Step 4
Careful there! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only.
Don't have a microwave? No worries! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to get it warmed up.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give that iOpener a nice, relaxing soak.
- Get the water boiling hot and then turn off the heat. Safety first!
- Now, carefully drop that iOpener into the steamy goodness for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully submerged – we want it cozy in there!
- Using tongs (because we like our fingers intact), fish out the warm iOpener from its bath.
- Give it a good towel-dry – we don’t want any water hanging around.
- Boom! Your iOpener is all set and ready to rock! If it needs a little more heat later on, just repeat the boiling water ritual for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and handle that LCD screen like it’s the crown jewel—gentle and careful!
This will help keep any glass fragments in check while adding some extra strength to the display when you start lifting and prying. No surprises here, just a solid base to get the job done smoothly.
- Got a cracked display glass? Keep those shards in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you dive into the repair.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is wrapped up nice and snug.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can, but heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.
Step 6
Just a heads up! When you're tackling this task, you might come across some sharp glass pieces. So, why not play it safe and rock some safety glasses? They'll keep those pesky shards at bay while you work your magic.
- Place the iOpener flat on the right side of your iPad, making sure it’s snug against the surface for solid contact.
- Let the bag rest there for around 90 seconds, giving it some time to work its magic before you try opening the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might need a little muscle. Don't rush it—take your time, and gently wiggle the plastic tool back and forth to make sure it's working its way in. Patience is key here, so give it the time it needs.
- Spotting a little gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It's about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top, and that’s our ticket in! Let’s make the most of this tiny flaw.
- Get your tool ready and line it up with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge to widen the crack will do the trick!
Step 8
- Place the tool carefully where it belongs—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. That’s your sweet spot for a smooth repair process.
Step 9
- With the plastic opening tool nestled gently between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it, keeping things nice and smooth as you go.
Step 10
- Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick beneath the front glass, going in about 0.5 inches. You're doing great!
Step 11
- While you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give your iOpener another quick reheat and pop it back on the bottom edge of the device. It's all about that gentle heat to help everything peel away smoothly.
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Step 12
This adhesive is seriously sticky, so get ready to put some muscle into it. Take it slow and steady to avoid any mishaps!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick sneaking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a bit. Using the pick this deep won’t cause any damage, but it might spread some adhesive gunk onto the LCD—so a little caution goes a long way!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start gently loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, easing the adhesive away as you go.
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Step 13
You might need to move the heated iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad when you're peeling off the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has had a chance to cool while you were working your magic.
- If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad to help loosen that sticky stuff. You've got this!
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Step 14
- Before you pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, pop a second one under the right edge of the front glass. This helps prevent the adhesive from sticking back together. Smooth move, right?
- Heat up the iOpener again, and gently move it to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm. You’ve got this!
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Step 15
Hey there! Just a heads up: the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned just so, you'll want to be super careful while handling it. We wouldn’t want to accidentally damage the antenna, right? So, take your time and proceed with caution!
- Time to channel your inner repair ninja! The next few steps are a delicate dance, so let's move with care.
- You'll need to gently free the adhesive that's holding the antenna to the front panel. Remember, we want to be careful not to harm the fragile bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow the upcoming steps closely.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sneaking past the bottom right corner — going any further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free that pesky adhesive!
Step 17
Take your time as you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner and can get a bit snippy if the adhesive is not handled with care!
Keep the pick tucked just a smidge under the front glass—don't yank it all the way out. Aim to leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip hanging out under there, like a little secret helper!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, easing away the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Nice and steady!
Step 18
- After you've slid past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button—go ahead and slide that opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to break up the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna hangs out attached to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is all about disconnecting it from the front panel so you can lift the panel without causing any antenna drama.
Step 19
Heat the iOpener for no more than one minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before you warm it up again!
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, just give that iOpener another warm-up to cozy up the adhesive in your working area.
- Keep working your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, gently lifting the adhesive. When you get past the home button, carefully pull the opening pick out enough to curve it around the button, then slide it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to keep the job moving smoothly.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in gently up to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) right here—just enough to avoid giving the home button ribbon cable an unwanted surprise.
- Keep sliding that adhesive release tool all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a smooth operator.
- Leave the opening pick chilling under the front glass close to the home button, keeping things ready for the next move.
Step 21
- Heat up the iOpener in the microwave and place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that spot.
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Step 22
If your adhesive has decided to take a little vacation, simply swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on going. If the iOpener itself has gotten a bit too chill, give it another heat-up!
- Carefully slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, gently easing it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to use a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
- If the pick feels like it’s stuck in the goo, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to help it glide through.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still a bit sticky, just heat the iOpener again and keep it on the left edge while you work your magic.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable sits about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of the iPad. When you're sliding the pick in, stop once you reach around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left side of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty slim because of the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Keep the pick shallow (no more than about half an inch or 10 mm) to avoid giving the digitizer a surprise poke.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s base. Take it slow and steady to keep that cable safe and sound.
- Still holding the opening pick underneath the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work your way along the bottom left corner to free the adhesive. Take it slow—patience is key!
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edge of your iPad might have decided to play it cool and stick down again. No worries! Just slide a pick under the area where the front glass is still holding on tight and give that adhesive a gentle 'snip' to free it up.
- Grab one of your opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then carefully lift and hold it with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that's keeping the front panel snugly in place. You've got this!
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting it back together, give the LCD a little spa treatment with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to blast away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
- Loosen and remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly against the aluminum frame.
Step 29
Handle the LCD gently while moving it. The ribbon cable is delicate and can snap if bent too much. Take it slow and steady!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or a trusty spudger, and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of your iPad. You've got this!
- Now, swing that LCD around on its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 30
- Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape that’s protecting the LCD ribbon cable connector.
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Step 31
- Lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Easy, right?
- Now, gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board with your fingers or some tweezers. You've got this!
Step 32
- Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure to keep your hands clear of the screen. You've got this!
Step 33
If needed, gently lift the tape that's holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place on the logic board.
- Gently lift the little flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.
Step 34
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pry up the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place.
- Carefully and steadily pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its connectors on the logic board—patience is key here!
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Step 35
- Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully release the adhesive that's holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You've got this!
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Step 36
- Gently wiggle your fingers and carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
- Now, it's time to lift off the front panel from the iPad. You've got this!
Step 37
- Carefully peel back the electrical tape covering the headphone jack connector – it’s like peeling a sticker off a new notebook, only more technical.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable in place. Easy does it – we’re almost there!
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Step 38
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive that's been holding it snugly against the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 39
- Gently peel back and take off the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly.
Step 40
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the front-facing camera connector out of its spot on the headphone jack assembly.
- Now, give the spudger a little slide to the right to break the adhesive holding the camera cable down. Easy does it!
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Step 41
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the little retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You're doing great!
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Step 42
- Gently slide the spudger's tip under the microphone ribbon cable and pop it out of its ZIF connector with finesse.
- Now, glide that spudger to the left to free up the adhesive that’s keeping the microphone ribbon cable snug with the headphone jack assembly.
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Step 43
- Gently flip up the little flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector onto the headphone jack assembly board.
- Carefully slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.
Step 44
These screws are tilted into the aluminum frame, so make sure to hold your screwdriver straight and aligned with the screw. This will help you avoid any stripping mishaps. You've got this!
- Let's get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.0 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 45
- Carefully lift the headphone jack assembly ribbon cable away from the foam pad nestled in the top left corner of the rear case.
- If the adhesive is feeling a bit clingy, grab the flat end of a spudger to gently coax it free from the foam.
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Step 46
- Hold the headphone jack assembly firmly with both hands and gently pull it out from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any cables that might be hanging around.
Step 47
- Let's kick things off by loosening the screws that are holding down the power and volume button cable to the aluminum frame:
- Two 5.5mm Phillips #0 screws
- One 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Remember, these screws are angled into the aluminum frame, so keep your screwdriver aligned with the screw for a smooth operation. You've got this!
Step 48
- Peel off the plastic cover from the volume buttons – it’s like unwrapping a gift, but for your phone!
Step 49
This screw is tucked into the aluminum frame at an angle. Just make sure your screwdriver stays lined up with the screw as you turn it. No need to force it—just steady and precise!
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove the single 2.6 mm screw that’s keeping the volume button frame locked to the aluminum frame. Easy peasy!
Step 50
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor, being mindful not to tug too hard on that delicate cable.
- Carefully work the plastic opening tool around the sensor to break the adhesive seal.
Step 51
- Keep sliding that plastic opening tool under the power & volume cables to gently free up the sticky adhesive holding them in place.
Step 52
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the adhesive lurking under the volume button branch of the ribbon cable. You've got this!
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Step 53
- Gently slide the spudger tip upward toward the top of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive.
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Step 54
- With the spudger's tip still under the ribbon cable, carefully coax the power button out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
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Step 55
- Grab the power & volume button cable with both hands and gently wiggle those volume buttons and lock switch out of their cozy spots in the aluminum frame.
- Now, carefully lift and pull the power & volume button cable out from its snug home in the rear aluminum case. You got this!
Step 56
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax the mute/lock switch out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift and pull the mute/lock switch away from the back aluminum case.
