iPad 4 CDMA Power & Volume Buttons Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 71 Steps
Get ready to swap out those power and volume buttons! Just a heads up, some of the images in this guide are from a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from the cellular version. No worries though, the steps are the same for both models, with just a few exceptions noted. Let's dive in and make your device as good as new!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure the plate spins smoothly. If the iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and burn out. Keep it moving for optimal performance!
Before you get started, give your microwave a quick clean—any leftover grime might just hitch a ride on the iOpener, and nobody wants that!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave, and let it soak up those warm vibes!
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Step 2
Keep an eye on your iOpener and don’t let it get too toasty—overheating could make it pop! Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffy or swollen, give it a pass—no touching!
Still too hot to handle in the middle? No rush! Let it chill a bit before heating again. When done right, a warmed-up iOpener stays cozy for about 10 minutes.
Microwave wattage can change how long you need to heat the iOpener. It’s ready to roll when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Give your iOpener a warm hug in the microwave for thirty seconds. It's like a cozy spa day for your tool!
- As you tackle the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty. If it starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds. Easy peasy!
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so handle it with care. If you want, slip on an oven mitt to keep those fingers safe and sound.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers away from the hot middle part.
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener is piping hot, so make sure to grab it only by the cool end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener in some hot, boiling water. Easy peasy!
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully dunk your iOpener.
- Turn the heat up and bring the water to a boil, then switch the burner off.
- Pop your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely submerged.
- Use some tongs to fish out the steamy iOpener from the water.
- Dry it off thoroughly with a towel so it’s ready to go.
- Your iOpener’s all set! If it cools down and you need more heat, just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out the SIM tray. Easy does it!
Step 6
- Gently slide out the SIM tray from its slot and set it aside. Easy does it, we don't want to make things harder than they need to be.
- If you're swapping out the SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide the fresh one in. It's like a little puzzle, but way easier!
Step 7
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen with care to avoid any oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check while giving your display some much-needed support as you pry and lift it up.
- Got a cracked display glass? To keep those shards from flying and keep your fingers safe, slap some clear tape over the glass before you dive in.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it's fully wrapped up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep fracturing as you work, so you may need to carefully use a metal pry tool to scoop out the broken pieces.
Step 8
Heads up! Since you might be handling some shattered glass here, it’s a smart move to wear safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from making a surprise appearance.
- Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it's nice and flat for the best contact. We want that iOpener and iPad to be best buddies!
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds before you dive in and try to pop open the front panel. Patience is key, my friend!
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Step 9
You might need to apply a little muscle to slide the tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Take your time, stay patient, and gently wiggle the tool back and forth if needed. No rush—just keep working at it and it'll pop open!
- You'll notice a tiny gap in the adhesive ring at the upper right corner of the iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. That's your sweet spot to start working.
- Line up your tool with the mute button and gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there – enough to widen that little crack.
Step 10
- Make sure to position your tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 11
- Keep the tip of the plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 12
- Take that plastic opening tool out of the iPad and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about half an inch in. You're doing great!
Step 13
- As you gently work to release the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, go ahead and reheat your iOpener. Place it on the bottom edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive there. Keep things steady and be patient—you're almost there!
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Step 14
- While you’re gently warming up the bottom edge with the iOpener, start loosening the adhesive from the iPad’s right edge.
- Grab your trusty opening pick and slide it down along the edge of the iPad, peeling away the adhesive as you go.
The adhesive is pretty tough, so you might need to use a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any mishaps.
If you can see the tip of the opening pick just under the front glass, gently pull it out a little. Don't worry, diving this deep won't break anything, but be careful – you might end up with some adhesive residue on the LCD. Keep it neat!
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Step 15
You might need to slide that heated iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad as you peel away the adhesive. How long your iPad’s been cooling off while you work will decide if this move is necessary.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a playful roll along the side of the iPad to keep releasing that sticky stuff and get back on track!
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Step 16
- Before you get started, pop a second opening pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking again. Once that's done, gently remove the first pick from the bottom corner of the iPad.
- Give your iOpener a quick reheat, and then place it at the top edge of the iPad. You're on the right track!
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is screwed and cabled to the bottom right edge of the iPad’s rear case. Since it’s positioned just so, take your time and be gentle—one wrong move and that antenna might wave goodbye for good.
- Alright, listen up! The next few steps are a bit tricky, so let’s take it slow and steady.
- You'll need to gently peel away the adhesive that's holding the antenna to the front panel. Just be super careful not to harm the fragile bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Stick to the steps below like glue!
Step 18
Heads up! Don't push the pick past the bottom right corner—doing so might give the Wi-Fi antenna an unwanted surprise.
- Gently maneuver the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 19
Careful as you slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel! The Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out close to the corner and can get cut if the adhesive lets go the wrong way.
Just wiggle that pick out a smidge—no need to go all the way! Keep about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip snugly under the front glass for now.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 20
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully separates the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you remove the panel.
Step 21
Keep your iOpener chill: heat it for no more than a minute each time, then give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before firing it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, give your iOpener another quick warm-up to heat the adhesive right where you're working.
- Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out enough to loop around the home button, then pop it back in, ensuring it goes in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) past the home button. You've got this!
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Step 22
When working on iPad 4 models, gently slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) right here to keep the home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
- Once you’re in, leave that opening pick right where it is, snug under the front glass near the home button. You're doing great!
Step 23
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick warm-up and then lay it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help get that adhesive nice and cozy in that spot.
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Step 24
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself feels chilly, just give it a quick heat-up and you’re good to go.
- Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- This adhesive is pretty sticky, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be cautious—no one wants to accidentally hurt themselves or their iPad!
- If your opening pick seems to be stuck in that adhesive, try 'rolling' the pick just like we showed in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for a bit. But if it’s still sticking around like a clingy friend, just heat it up again and rest it on the left edge while you keep working your magic.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and carefully slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 26
Hey there! Just a heads up: the digitizer cable is hanging out about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you're working with your pick, make sure to stop sliding it when you reach around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom. Keep it steady and you'll be golden!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, peeling away that pesky adhesive as you go. This area is a bit more forgiving since the digitizer runs along the entire left edge. Just be careful not to dive too deep (keep it to about 1/2 inch or 10 mm max) to avoid any damage to the digitizer. You're doing great!
Step 27
Hey there! Just a friendly heads up: the bottom of the digitizer cable hangs out only about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, take your time and be gentle—let's not accidentally snip that cable!
- With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of the iPad, gently free the sticky adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 28
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad likes to stick back down. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still stuck and carefully "cut" through the adhesive to free it.
- Grab one of the opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then pinch it with your fingers and give it a careful lift.
Step 29
Watch out for any sticky stuff still hanging on, and gently use an opening pick to slice through any adhesive keeping that front panel stuck in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the device like you're unveiling a surprise!
- When you're putting everything back together, don't forget to give that LCD a little love with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to zap away any dust bunnies or fingerprints before sealing the glass back on.
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hidden behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently shift the home button ribbon cable to the side so you can access and remove that pesky bottom left screw.
- Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that hold the LCD onto the aluminum frame—small screws, big job!
Step 31
Handle that LCD with care! The ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the LCD. It's like giving your iPad a little lift!
- Now, take that LCD and swing it over on its left edge, letting it rest comfortably on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 32
- Grab the tip of your trusty spudger and gently lift that sneaky piece of tape hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You've got this!
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Step 33
- Gently lift up the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.
- Carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its slot on the logic board using your fingers or some tweezers.
- If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the cable, try a hard restart by holding down the power and home buttons together for about ten seconds until the Apple logo pops up.
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Step 34
- Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, but be careful not to touch the front of the screen.
Step 35
If you've got it, peel off that piece of electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. It's a little step, but it gets you closer to the finish line!
Step 36
- Gently lift up the little flap holding down the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You got this!
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable until it pops right out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 38
- Gently ease the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the back case.
Step 39
- Carefully use the tip of your spudger to lift up the little piece of tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Take it slow and steady!
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Step 40
- Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. Take your time – we want to make sure everything stays in place!
Step 41
- Grab that trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently pry up the adhesive hiding beneath the digitizer ribbon cable.
- Once it's loosened up, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board. You're doing great!
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Step 42
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the cable to the back aluminum case.
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Step 43
- Gently use your fingers to wiggle out the digitizer ribbon cable from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad, like revealing a hidden treasure!
Step 44
- Gently peel back that piece of electrical tape that's hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It's like unveiling a surprise!
- Now, grab your trusty spudger and carefully flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You're doing great!
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Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, freeing it from the sticky grip of the adhesive holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 46
- Gently peel back and remove the tape that's keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector under wraps.
- Lift up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector—careful, don’t break it!
- With the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully slide the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 47
- Unscrew those three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the SIM board in place on the aluminum frame. You're almost there!
Step 48
When you're pulling the headphone jack assembly cable aside, take it easy—don't yank too hard or you might risk popping the jack off. A little care goes a long way!
- Gently shift the headphone jack assembly cable to the side and take out the SIM board from the iPad. You're doing great!
Step 49
- Gently peel back and take off the sticky tape covering the headphone jack assembly.
Step 50
- Carefully take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that is keeping the camera cable snugly attached to the headphone jack assembly.
Step 51
- Grab the flat side of your spudger and gently nudge the front-facing camera out of its cozy little spot on the headphone jack assembly.
- Keep your spudger in hand, then slide it to the right to peel off the adhesive that's holding the camera cable in place.
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Step 52
- Hey there! Grab your spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on that microphone cable ZIF connector. You're doing great!
- Next up, slide the tip of your spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and pop it out of the ZIF connector like a pro!
- Now, give that spudger a little slide to the left to break free the adhesive that's keeping the microphone ribbon cable stuck to the headphone jack assembly. Almost there!
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Step 53
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift the antenna connector cable out of its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly board. No rush, just give it a little nudge and it'll pop right out.
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Step 54
- Gently lift the little flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector onto the headphone jack assembly board.
- Carefully slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.
Step 55
These screws are positioned at an angle in the aluminum frame. Make sure to align your screwdriver with the screw to prevent any stripping mishaps. You've got this!
- Time to tackle those screws holding the headphone jack assembly! Let's get to it:
- First up, you'll need to remove five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws. They're waiting for you!
- Next, grab your tools and take out two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws. Almost there!
- Finally, finish strong by unscrewing two more 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws. You've got this!
Step 56
- With a gentle grip on the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly, carefully pull the assembly straight out towards the bottom of the iPad, keeping it parallel to the device. Let's make some progress!
Step 57
- Hold the headphone jack assembly firmly with both hands and gently pull it out from the iPad, keeping an eye on any cables that might want to hang on for the ride.
Step 58
The two screws on top are angled into the aluminum frame, so it's important to keep your screwdriver aligned with them as you work. Stay steady, and remember: a little patience goes a long way!
- Let's start by loosening the screws holding the power & volume button cable to the aluminum frame:
- Two 5.5 mm Phillips #0 screws
- One 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
Step 59
- Peel off the plastic piece that's covering the volume buttons. It's like unwrapping a little gift, but the gift is your phone's functionality!
Step 60
This screw goes in at an angle to the aluminum frame. Keep your screwdriver lined up straight with the screw to make things easier.
- Take out the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that’s keeping the volume button frame snug against the aluminum frame. You've got this!
Step 61
- Carefully slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor—watch out for that delicate cable!
- Gently work the plastic tool around the sensor to loosen the adhesive and free it up.
Step 62
- Carefully slide a spudger under the power and volume cables to gently loosen the sticky adhesive holding them in place.
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Step 63
- Grab the spudger and use the sharp tip (not the wide side) to carefully lift the adhesive under the volume button ribbon cable. It’s a delicate move, so take your time!
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Step 64
- Keep pushing the spudger's tip toward the top of the iPad, and watch as the adhesive lets go like it’s ready for a break!
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Step 65
- Keep the spudger tip tucked under the ribbon cable and carefully pry the power button free from its aluminum frame socket.
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Step 66
- Grab the power & volume button cable with both hands, and gently wiggle those volume buttons and lock switch free from their cozy spots in the aluminum frame. They’re just a little shy, so be patient!
- Once you’ve freed them, lift that power & volume button cable right out of the rear aluminum case like a pro.
Step 67
- Slide the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool right under the top edge of the power button.
- Gently lift the top part of the power button away from its bracket—it'll pop right off!
Step 68
- Don't forget to give some love to the underside of the power button just like you did before.
- Now, gently lift and take off the power button bracket from the power & volume button assembly. You've got this!
Step 69
- Slide the tip of your plastic opening tool under the top edge of the rotation lock/mute switch with a gentle wedge.
- Gently slide the tool downward to pop the top side of the rotation lock/mute switch out of its bracket.
Step 70
- Slide the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool under the top volume rocker and gently pry it upwards to pop it free from the volume buttons bracket. Easy peasy!
- Now, just do the same for the bottom volume rocker, separating it from the bracket like a pro!
Step 71
- Gently lift up and detach that power & volume button ribbon cable like a pro!
