iPad 4 GSM Headphone Jack Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out that headphone jack board and get your device back to sounding great! It's easier than it sounds, and with a little patience, you’ll have it done in no time. Need a hand? If things get tricky, don't hesitate to schedule a repair.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener gets jammed, it could overheat and cause some serious issues.
Before you start, give your microwave a quick clean—any leftover gunk at the bottom might just stick to the iOpener, and nobody wants that!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave, like it's the star of the show.
Tools Used
Step 2
Take it easy when heating the iOpener—overcooking it can cause it to pop like a balloon! Keep the temperature below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, don’t touch it—better safe than sorry.
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, keep using it gently while it cools down a bit before reheating. When heated right, it should stay warm and ready for about 10 minutes.
Microwave wattages vary, so adjust the heating time accordingly. Your iOpener is ready to roll when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener for 30 seconds, giving it a little heat love.
- As you continue with the repair, remember to give the iOpener a quick reheat in the microwave every 30 seconds as it cools down.
Tools Used
Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot—handle with care and grab an oven mitt if you want to keep those fingers safe.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot center. Don't burn your hands!
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only to keep your fingers safe and sound.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener by placing it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
- Heat that water up until it's bubbling away, then turn off the heat.
- Carefully lower the iOpener into the steamy water for about 2-3 minutes—make sure it's fully submerged and enjoying the warmth.
- Use some tongs to fish out the warmed iOpener from its cozy water bath.
- Give the iOpener a good towel-dry to get rid of any excess moisture.
- Voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! Should it need another round in the hot tub, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out the SIM tray.
Step 6
- Gently slide the SIM tray out from its slot and take it out of the iPad.
- If you're swapping the SIM card, pop the old one out of the tray and slide the new one in.
Step 7
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and handle that LCD screen gently — it’s delicate!
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and give your display some sturdy support while you're prying and lifting it up.
- Got a cracked screen? No worries! Keep things safe and stop shards from flying by taping over the glass before you dive in.
- Cover the iPad's display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the whole front is snugly protected.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Heads up: broken glass can keep cracking as you work, so you might need a metal prying tool to carefully lift it out. Take it slow and if it gets tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 8
Heads up! Since you might be handling some broken glass here, we definitely suggest rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from making a surprise attack.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes good contact with the surface.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to pry open the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 9
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady, gently wiggle that tool back and forth until it slips in just right.
- Take a look at the upper right corner of your iPad – there's a tiny gap in the adhesive ring, about 2 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Time to use this to your advantage!
- Position your tool near the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the glass and the bezel. Just get the very tip in there, just enough to pry open that little crack.
Step 10
- Place the tool carefully in the right spot—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. Take your time and make sure it's snug in there, no rush!
Step 11
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into the gap next to it. Easy does it!
Step 12
- Time to move that plastic opening tool out of the way! Now, grab the opening pick and slide it gently under the front glass, going in about 0.5 inches deep. You’ve got this!
Step 13
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad, go ahead and warm up your iOpener again, then place it back along the bottom edge to keep things toasty.
Tools Used
Step 14
This adhesive is seriously strong — be ready to flex those repair muscles and take it slow!
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back a bit. Going this deep won't harm anything, but it might spread some sticky adhesive onto the LCD—no biggie, just a heads-up!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, carefully freeing the adhesive as you go.
Tools Used
Step 15
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back over to the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. How long the iPad has had to cool off while you work will decide when to make the move.
- If your opening pick decides to play clingy with the adhesive, just roll it smoothly along the side of the iPad to keep peeling that glue away.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Before you pop that first pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This will help keep the adhesive from sticking back where it came from.
- Re-heat the iOpener and move it up to the top edge of the iPad. The heat will make everything much easier to work with!
Tools Used
Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is nestled at the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case, held in place with screws and a cable. It's crucial to be gentle when handling this part – a little too much force could lead to some serious Wi-Fi antenna issues. Go slow and steady, and you'll be just fine!
- Time to take things slow and steady—these next steps need a bit of finesse.
- Gently work on loosening the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel. Be super careful around the sensitive parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the upcoming steps closely to avoid any accidents.
Step 18
Be careful not to slide the pick too far towards the bottom right corner. Going too far could put the Wi-Fi antenna at risk, and nobody wants that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.
Step 19
Slide your opening pick carefully along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna near the corner—it’s super close and can get cut if the adhesive lets go the wrong way.
Don't yank that pick all the way out from under the front glass! Just gently pull it back a bit, leaving about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still tucked under the glass. A little patience here goes a long way.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, easing up the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow, and remember, patience is key!
Step 20
- Once you've passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right by the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. It’ll come right off.
- The antenna is screwed into the bottom of the iPad and connected via a cable. This step is key—it detaches the antenna from the front panel, making sure it stays safe when you remove the panel. No antenna damage here!
Step 21
- Keep sliding that adhesive release tool along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling the pick out far enough to loop it around the home button, then slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’re past the button.
Keep the iOpener warm, but don't overdo it! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time and make sure to give it a good two-minute break before going for round two.
If the adhesive's gone a bit too cool along the bottom edge, just pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a little extra warmth. This'll get the adhesive back to a working temperature, so you can keep cruising through the repair.
Tools Used
Step 22
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Gently work your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Keep it steady, we’re almost there!
- Place the opening pick carefully underneath the front glass near the home button, and leave it there for now. This will help keep things open while you move on to the next step!
Step 23
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently heat that stubborn adhesive.
Tools Used
Step 24
If your adhesive has cooled off too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep at it. And if the iOpener itself has lost its heat mojo, give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, pulling it out a little as you work around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply some muscle. Take it slow and steady—no rush! We don’t want any slips that could damage the iPad (or your fingers).
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it gently like shown in step 9. This should help it glide through!
Tools Used
Step 25
If the adhesive feels warm and ready, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for now. But if it's still playing hard to get, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you keep going.
- Keep peeling the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, then slide that opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 26
Heads up! The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom edge of your iPad. When you're sliding that pick, ease up and stop once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left side of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up: the adhesive is pretty thin here because of the digitizer running along this edge. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.
Step 27
The digitizer cable's bottom is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad, so take it slow and steady here. A little extra care will go a long way—don’t want to accidentally cut this cable!
- With your trusty opening pick still hanging out under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently work it around the bottom left corner to break the adhesive seal. Take your time and be careful, it’ll pop right off!
Step 28
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad likes to play sticky tricks and reattach itself. If that’s happening, carefully slide a pick under the spot where the glass is still clinging on and gently 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab your opening pick and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it's lifted, give it a little nudge with your fingers to pull it up.
Step 29
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging around! Use an opening pick to carefully slice through whatever is left holding that front panel in place. Slow and steady wins the race!
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist the front glass away from the iPad. Easy does it!
- Before putting everything back together, use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give the LCD a quick clean. You want that fresh, spotless look before sealing it all up!
Step 30
The bottom left screw is playing hide and seek under the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the ribbon cable out of the way so you can grab that sneaky screw.
- Take out those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. They're small, but they’re no match for your screwdriver skills!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care—its ribbon cable is delicate and doesn't appreciate being bent like a contortionist.
- Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD from the iPad.
- Now, carefully rotate the LCD along its left edge and place it down onto the front glass panel, making sure everything is aligned.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the tape shielding the LCD ribbon cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.
- With a light touch, either use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.
- If your LCD screen is being a little shy and doesn't light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, a quick force restart might be needed. Hold the power and home buttons together for about ten seconds, and the Apple logo should make a grand reappearance.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Gently lift the LCD off the front panel, but make sure not to touch the front of it. Just give it a little nudge and let it pop free!
Step 35
If you spot any electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel it off gently.
Step 36
- Lift up the flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with care, it's just a small step, but we’re getting closer to fixing this thing!
Step 37
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Keep it smooth and steady!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently lift and slide the home button ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the rear case.
Step 39
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place on the logic board. Take it slow, we don't want to rip anything!
Tools Used
Step 40
- Gently lift the little flap locking each digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connector to free them up.
Step 41
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently loosen the adhesive holding down that digitizer ribbon cable.
- Now, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its sockets on the logic board. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive holding it to the back of the aluminum case. Take your time, and remember, patience is key!
Tools Used
Step 43
- Gently use your fingers to wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
- Lift the front panel off the iPad and set it aside.
Step 44
- Carefully peel back and remove the electrical tape covering the headphone jack cable connector. We know, it's a bit sticky, but you've got this!
- Using your spudger, gently lift the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Don't rush—steady hands will do the trick!
Tools Used
Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, and carefully peel away the adhesive that’s holding it onto the aluminum frame.
- Now, give the headphone jack assembly cable a straight pull, freeing it from its socket on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Gently peel back and lift off the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector under wraps.
- Flip up the little flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector to release it.
- Use the tip of your trusty spudger to carefully slide the SIM board cable straight out of its home on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 47
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove the three 1.75 mm screws holding the SIM board in place on the aluminum frame.
Step 48
Gently move the headphone jack assembly cable aside—don’t yank it too hard or you might accidentally rip the headphone jack off. Handle with care!
- Gently tuck the headphone jack assembly cable aside and then take out the SIM board from the iPad.
Step 49
- Carefully peel back and lift off the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly.
Step 50
- Loosen and remove the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable onto the headphone jack assembly.
Step 51
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop the front-facing camera out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly. Nice and easy, no rush!
- Now, without taking the spudger out, slide it to the right. This will release the adhesive holding the camera cable in place. Smooth and steady!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Gently use the spudger’s tip to flip up the little retaining flap on the microphone cable’s ZIF connector.
- Slide the spudger tip underneath the microphone ribbon cable and carefully lift it out of its ZIF connector.
- Smoothly slide the spudger to the left to peel back the adhesive holding the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly.
Tools Used
Step 53
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop the antenna connector cable out of its spot on the headphone jack assembly board. Keep it cool and steady!
Tools Used
Step 54
- Lift up the retaining flap that’s holding the volume/power button ribbon cable in place on the headphone jack assembly board.
- Gently detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector.
Step 55
These screws are set at an angle into the aluminum frame. Keep your screwdriver lined up straight with the screw to avoid any stripping mishaps.
- Alright, let's get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly. Here's what you'll need to do:
- Grab your Phillips #0 screwdriver and remove five 2.6 mm screws.
- Next, switch to your Phillips #00 screwdriver and take out two 2.2 mm wide head screws.
- Finally, grab that Phillips #00 again to remove two more 2.6 mm screws.
Step 56
- Grasp the headphone jack assembly's ribbon cable and gently slide the assembly straight down, keeping it parallel to the iPad, towards the bottom edge.
Step 57
- Hold the headphone jack assembly firmly with both hands and gently pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out so no cables get tangled up.
Step 58
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger, and gently pry the rear-facing camera from its snug spot beneath the headphone jack assembly board. It might take a little finesse, but with a bit of patience, it'll pop right out!
Tools Used
Step 59
- The headphone jack board is still in place.
