iPad 4 GSM Logic Board Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 50 Steps
Hey there, repair champ! Just a little heads-up: Be sure to handle all components with care and keep those pesky screws organized. A little patience goes a long way in this journey. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
Ready to tackle that logic board replacement? You’ve got this! Just follow along with our guide, and you’ll be back up and running in no time. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. A clean bottom means less chance of any pesky residue sticking to the iOpener, and who wants that?
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and give it a warm hug!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: make sure you don’t let the iOpener get too toasty during your repair adventure. We wouldn’t want it to go pop! Keep the heat under 100˚C (212˚F), okay?
And remember, if the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it!
If the middle of the iOpener is still feeling a bit too hot to handle, just keep using it while it cools down a bit more before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener will stay cozy for about 10 minutes. You’ve got this!
– Give that iOpener a warm-up session in the microwave for thirty seconds. It’s like a little spa day for your repair buddy!
– As you dive into the repair, keep an eye on your iOpener. When it starts to cool off, pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the good vibes going.
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Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be pretty toasty, so handle it with care. If it’s too hot to handle, don’t hesitate to grab an oven mitt.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
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Step 4
If a microwave isn’t in your toolkit, no worries! Just pop that iOpener into some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely dunk that iOpener.
– Get that water bubbling like a hot spring! Once it’s boiling, turn off the heat.
– Now, gently place the iOpener into the steamy water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a nice, cozy dip.
– Using some trusty tongs, carefully fish out the warmed-up iOpener from the hot water.
– Give the iOpener a good towel-dry, so it’s all set to go!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all prepped and ready for action! If it needs a little extra warmth, just heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let it chill in there for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and gently pop out that SIM tray like a pro!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and say goodbye to it for a moment. Time to give that iPad a little upgrade!
– If you’re swapping in a new SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide in the shiny new one. You’ve got this!
Step 7
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen – we want it in one piece!
– If your display glass has taken a hit, let’s keep those pesky shards in check and stay safe while you work your magic—grab some tape and cover that glass up!
– Lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over your iPad’s display until you’ve got the whole face protected. It’s like giving it a cozy blanket!
– Now, do your best to follow the rest of the guide as it flows. Just a heads up: once the glass starts to crack, it might want to keep cracking as you go. You may need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the broken pieces. You’ve got this!
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder, as you might be dealing with some tricky broken glass in this process, it’s a great idea to pop on those safety glasses to keep those pesky shards from flying your way. Stay safe and stylish!
Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of your trusty opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle! Take your time and be gentle, giving the tool a little wiggle here and there if needed. You’ve got this!
– Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring, located in the upper right corner about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of this little opening!
– Position your tool near the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—just enough to gently widen that crack.
Step 11
– With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right alongside your trusty tool. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad’s embrace, and slide the opening pick in a bit deeper, about half an inch beneath the front glass. You’re doing great!
Step 14
The adhesive has a serious grip, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s perfectly safe to use the pick this deep, just a heads-up: you might end up with some sticky adhesive on the LCD. No worries, though!
– While the bottom edge is soaking up some warmth from the iOpener, start peeling back the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
– Gently glide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, freeing the adhesive as you go. You’re doing great!
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Step 15
As you release the adhesive, you might want to slide the heated iOpener back to the right edge of your iPad. Just keep an eye on how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy working your magic.
– If the opening pick is feeling a bit sticky in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that glue. You’ve got this!
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Step 16
– Before you pop that first opening pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking again.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it on the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fitted to the bottom right edge of the rear case of your iPad with screws and a cable. Given the unique positioning of the Wi-Fi antenna, it’s super important to handle this part with care—otherwise, you might end up causing some serious damage to the antenna. So, let’s keep it gentle and steady!
– Alright, folks! It’s time to tread carefully in the next few steps.
– You’ll need to gently peel away the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel, but watch out for those delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Keep your eyes peeled and follow these steps with care!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don’t slide that pick any further than the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little ouch, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to peel away that sticky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, remember that the Wi-Fi antenna is hanging out nearby. It’s a bit shy and can get snipped if the adhesive isn’t treated with care. Keep it friendly and everything will be just fine!
Just give that pick a gentle tug—no need to yank it out completely! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip snugly tucked under the front glass for a smooth operation.
– Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, freeing up that adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna like a pro!
Step 20
– Once you’ve navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently glide the pick to the right to free the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Easy peasy!
Step 21
Keep that iOpener cool, my friend! Heat it for no more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before firing it up again. You’re doing great!
– Keep on peeling that adhesive along the bottom of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to wrap around the home button, then pop it back in, pushing it down about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve passed the home button. You’ve got this!
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Step 22
– Keep peeling away the adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad with confidence.
– Nestle the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it chill there.
Step 24
If the adhesive has decided to chill a bit too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep on going. If the iOpener is feeling a bit too cool, give it a little reheating love.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– Keep in mind, the adhesive here is pretty tough, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If you find the opening pick is getting a bit stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling nice and warm, go ahead and take that iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still holding on a bit too tightly, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you tackle your project.
– Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner.
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Step 26
Hey there! The digitizer cable is hiding about 2″ (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re using your pick, remember to take a break and stop around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’re doing great!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, carefully peeling away the adhesive as you go. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running along the whole left edge. Just a friendly tip: keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (about 10 mm) to avoid any mishaps with the digitizer.
Step 27
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s edge. Take your time and handle it gently to avoid any accidental snips.
– With your trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive free at the bottom left corner.
Step 28
– Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s lifted, use your fingers to hold it in place like a pro!
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover sticky stuff that might still be holding the front panel in place. Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any adhesive that’s trying to keep things together. You’ve got this!
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– When putting things back together, take a moment to use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a little TLC—clean off any dust or fingerprints before you seal it up with the glass.
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable to the side to access and remove that sneaky bottom left screw.
– Take out those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the LCD snugly attached to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Whew, that ribbon cable is wimpy! Keep it nice and chill as you maneuver the spooky LCD. It’s like the princess in the castle – not to snag those cables on the way out!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a little finesse, rotate the LCD along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 32
– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape that’s hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You’re doing great!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle that LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
– If the LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, just hold down the power button and home button for about ten seconds until the Apple logo makes its grand appearance. You’ve got the power!
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Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD off the front panel without getting your fingers on the screen. You’re almost there!
Step 35
If you’ve got it, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape that’s hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You’re doing great!
Step 36
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Give it a little nudge and let it pop up with ease!
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull that home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy little socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable out from its cozy spot in the rear case.
Step 39
– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 40
– Lift the retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with a gentle touch.
Step 41
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently pry up the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place. You’re doing great!
– Once you’ve loosened it up, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 42
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully pry away the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 43
– With a gentle tug, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug little home in the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
– Now, carefully lift away the front panel from your iPad. It’s like peeling a banana, but way more high-tech!
Step 44
– Carefully peel back the electrical tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’re making great progress!
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Step 45
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger beneath the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive holding it snug against the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 46
– Gently peel away the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector cozy and hidden.
– Lift up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector like a pro.
– With your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out from its snug spot on the logic board.
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Step 47
Remember to gently pry under the connector, not the socket itself! Giving the socket a little poke could lead to some serious damage, and we definitely want to avoid that.
– Unplug the connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board.
Step 48
– Time to get your hands a little dirty! Start by unscrewing the seven screws that are holding the logic board snug against the rear aluminum panel. You got this!
Step 49
– Gently grip the logic board by the edge closest to the dock connector and smoothly slide it down toward the bottom of the iPad. Take your time, and remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 50
– Carefully flip the logic board over, watching out for any cables that might get tangled up.
– Grab your trusty spudger and use its tip to gently pop off the three antenna connectors from their sockets on the logic board.
