iPad 4 GSM Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the rear-facing camera with confidence and ease.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins without a hitch. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn—so keep it moving!
Give your microwave a quick once-over before you start—nobody wants leftover gunk sticking to the iOpener and making things messier than they need to be.
- Pop the iOpener right in the microwave’s center to get it warmed up.
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Step 2
Heads up! Don’t let the iOpener get too hot—overheating can make it pop like a balloon. Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, give it a hard pass—do not touch it.
Still too toasty to handle in the middle? No worries, keep using it and let it cool down a bit before heating again. When heated just right, it should stay warm for about 10 minutes.
Depending on the power of your microwave, you might need a little more or less time. The iOpener is good to go when it's just shy of too hot to handle.
- Give that iOpener a quick 30-second spin in the microwave.
- As you move through the steps, keep an eye on the iOpener. If it starts to cool down, pop it back in the microwave for another 30 seconds. Just keep it warm and ready to go!
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Step 3
The iOpener can get pretty hot, so make sure you handle it with care! Oven mitts are your best friend here if you need them.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, holding it by one of the flat ends to steer clear of the hot center. Trust us, your fingers will thank you!
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Step 4
The iOpener's going to be super hot, so make sure you grab it by the end tabs only. Safety first, cool vibes second!
Don't have a microwave? No worries! Just heat up your iOpener in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it hot on the stove.
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully underwater.
- Use some tongs to fish out the warmed-up iOpener—watch out, it’s hot!
- Give it a good dry-off with a towel so it’s ready to roll.
- And just like that, your iOpener is good to go! Need to heat it again? Simply boil the water, turn off the heat, and dunk the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or just straighten out a paperclip, then gently push it into the small hole next to the SIM tray. Give it a little push, and voila – the tray will pop right out.
Step 6
- Gently slide out the SIM tray from its cozy little slot and give it a little wiggle to free it from the iPad.
- If you're swapping out the SIM card, just pop the old one out of its tray and slide in the new one like a pro.
Step 7
Pop on those safety glasses to protect your eyes and make sure to handle that LCD screen with care—it's a delicate one!
This keeps those sneaky glass shards in check and gives the screen some solid support while you’re prying and lifting.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping over the glass first.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is cracked, it might keep cracking as you work, so you might need to carefully pry out the glass pieces with a metal tool.
Step 8
Just a heads-up: You might run into some shattered glass while working, so it's a great idea to rock those safety glasses to keep any flying bits from causing trouble. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Let it hang out there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try opening the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Take your time, be patient, and gently wiggle that plastic tool back and forth until it slips in nicely.
- Check out the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring located in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little weak spot is your entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the narrow space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the tip will do to start widening the gap.
Step 10
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—getting in the perfect spot makes all the difference!
Step 11
- Wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right alongside the tool to gently pry things open.
Step 12
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit further under the front glass—aim for about half an inch deep to keep things smooth.
Step 13
- While you're working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad to keep things nice and warm. This will help get everything moving smoothly.
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Step 14
This adhesive is tough stuff, so you might need to bring some muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back a little. Don’t worry, using the pick this deep won’t cause any damage, but it could leave some adhesive residue on the LCD. No big deal—just something to watch out for!
- While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, easing the adhesive loose as you move along.
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Step 15
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you loosen the adhesive. How hot it still is depends on how long the iPad has had to chill while you were working on it.
- If the opening pick sticks to the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the device. Keep going, and you'll gradually release that sticky stuff like a pro.
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Step 16
- Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that stubborn adhesive from making a comeback.
- Give your iOpener a little reheating love, then place it at the top edge of your iPad.
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is screwed and connected along the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case. Since the antenna’s orientation is a bit particular, take it slow and steady to avoid any permanent damage to this little tech lifeline.
- Alright, here's the deal: these next steps need a bit of extra care. Take it slow!
- Your mission is to carefully release the adhesive that's holding the antenna to the front panel. Watch out for the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad—they’re fragile! Keep your focus and follow the steps closely. You've got this!
Step 18
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner — going beyond that could mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady, you'll get it!
Step 19
As you slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna hanging out nearby—it’s super close to the corner and can get cut if you’re not careful with the adhesive!
Keep the pick wedged just a tiny bit under the front glass—don't pull it all the way out. About 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip should stay tucked under to keep things steady.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 20
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable to the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully separates the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 21
Keep it cool and don’t heat the iOpener for more than a minute at a time. Then, give it at least two minutes to chill out before warming it up again.
If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, just pop the iOpener back in the heat to warm things up where you're working. It’ll get things nice and toasty again!
- Keep gently pulling the adhesive off along the bottom of the iPad. As you work, wiggle the opening pick around the home button. Once you've passed it, slide the pick back in, pushing it about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to make sure it's securely in place. Easy does it!
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Step 22
For iPad 4 models, be sure to gently slide the pick into this area no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm). We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep peeling that adhesive strip all along the bottom edge of your iPad—almost there!
- Slip the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there for now.
Step 23
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently warm up the adhesive in that spot.
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Step 24
If the adhesive has cooled too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep at it. If it's cooled down too much, give it another round of heat to get things moving again.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to get around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take your time and be careful to avoid slipping or causing any damage to yourself or the iPad.
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 25
If the adhesive has warmed up nicely, go ahead and take out the iOpener from the iPad to make things easier. But if it's still sticking pretty well, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it along the left edge while you work your magic.
- Peel off the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. Keep it steady and take your time – patience is key here.
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Step 26
The digitizer cable is hiding about 2" (50 mm) up from the iPad's bottom. When you're about 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom, stop sliding the pick. You're almost there!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left side of the iPad, freeing up that pesky adhesive as you go. The adhesive is a bit shy here since it’s hanging out with the digitizer all along that side. Just a friendly reminder to keep the pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental mishaps with the digitizer. You've got this!
Step 27
The digitizer cable's bottom is super close—just about 1 inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and steady here, and be extra careful not to snip that cable!
- Keep that opening pick right where it is under the bottom edge of the iPad, and gently slide it to break the adhesive seal near the bottom left corner.
Step 28
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to play sticky again. If that happens, carefully slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding tight and gently "cut" through the adhesive to free it.
- Grab one of those trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of your iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be sticking around. Grab an opening pick and gently cut through any sticky spots holding the front panel in place. Stay smooth and steady!
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting it back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to clear off any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the ribbon cable out of the way to get that screw out. A little maneuvering and you're good to go!
- Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame.
Step 31
Take it easy when handling the LCD. The ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Be gentle and patient!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of its cozy home inside the iPad.
- Now, carefully rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down gently on the front glass panel. Take your time and don't rush!
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Step 32
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that's hugging the LCD ribbon cable connector. You've got this!
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Step 33
- Lift the flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector gently.
- Using your fingers or tweezers, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board.
- If the LCD screen doesn't light up after you've reconnected the ZIF connector, try giving your iPad a quick restart. Just press and hold both the power button and home button for about 10 seconds until the Apple logo appears. That should do the trick!
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Step 34
- Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without getting your hands all over the screen.
Step 35
If there's any electrical tape hanging around, go ahead and peel it off! It might be covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You're doing great!
Step 36
- Lift the flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector gently, and you're ready to go!
Step 37
- Grab some tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Easy does it!
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Step 38
- Gently guide the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy little spot in the rear case.
Step 39
- Gently slide the pointy end of your spudger under the tape holding down the digitizer ribbon cable on the logic board, and peel it back with some smooth moves.
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Step 40
- Lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with a gentle touch.
Step 41
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the adhesive holding it down.
- Carefully slide the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.
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Step 42
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger to carefully free the adhesive that's holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You've got this!
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Step 43
- Time to get hands-on! Gently tug at the digitizer ribbon cable and pull it free from its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
- Now, let's say goodbye to the front panel of the iPad and remove it with care.
Step 44
- Gently peel off the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack cable connector. You got this!
- Take your spudger and carefully flip up the retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Easy does it!
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Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to break free the adhesive holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 46
- Gently peel back and say goodbye to the piece of tape that's been keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector under wraps.
- Give a little flip to the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector—it’s time to let it shine!
- With the precision of a ninja, use the tip of a spudger to smoothly pull the SIM board cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board.
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Step 47
- Unscrew the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the SIM board onto the aluminum frame. Keep track of these tiny champs!
Step 48
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, remember to treat that headphone jack with care. Pulling too hard could leave it feeling a bit too detached!
- Gently hold the headphone jack assembly cable aside and carefully lift the SIM board out of the iPad.
Step 49
- Carefully peel off the adhesive tape that’s holding down the headphone jack assembly. You've got this!
Step 50
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and remove the single 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw holding the camera cable to the headphone jack assembly. This will free up the cable so you can move on to the next step.
Step 51
- Grab the flat end of a spudger and gently pry the front-facing camera out of its cozy spot on the headphone jack assembly.
- Keep the spudger in place, then slide it to the right. This will let go of the adhesive that’s holding the camera cable down.
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Step 52
- Grab your spudger and gently lift up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!
- Carefully slide the spudger under the microphone ribbon cable, giving it a little nudge to detach it from the ZIF connector.
- Now, slide the spudger over to the left side, peeling away the adhesive that’s holding the microphone cable to the headphone jack assembly. A little wiggle should do the trick!
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Step 53
- Gently use the flat end of the spudger to lift the antenna connector cable out of its cozy little home on the headphone jack assembly board. You've got this!
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Step 54
- Gently lift the retaining flap that's keeping the volume/power button ribbon cable connector snugly attached to the headphone jack assembly board.
- Carefully detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector.
Step 55
These screws are angled into the aluminum frame, so make sure to keep your screwdriver aligned with the screw to avoid any stripping mishaps. It's a small detail that goes a long way, trust us!
- Time to remove a few screws from the headphone jack assembly, so grab your tools and let's do this!
- Start with five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws.
- Next up, two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws.
- And finish it off with two more 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws.
Step 56
- Grab the headphone jack assembly by its ribbon cable, then gently slide the assembly straight down toward the bottom edge of the iPad.
Step 57
- With both hands on the headphone jack assembly, gently pull it away from the iPad, keeping an eye out for any cables that might want to join the party.
Step 58
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pry the rear-facing camera out of its cozy socket on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. A little nudge goes a long way!
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Step 59
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 GSM Front Panel Adhesive Strips guide to secure the front panel like a pro.
- If you hit a snag or want a helping hand, you can always schedule a repair with us.
