iPad 4 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 32 Steps
Time to give that cracked LCD screen on your iPad 4 Wi-Fi a fresh new look! Follow along and swap out the old screen for a shiny new one. With just a little effort, you'll have your iPad looking good as new in no time. Ready? Let's get started!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep an eye on it!
Give your microwave a quick clean before you start—no one wants leftover gunk sticking to the iOpener when you heat it up.
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and get it heated up! It's time to give your device a little warmth boost.
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Step 2
Watch out! Don't let the iOpener get too hot during the repair – it could burst! Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If the iOpener looks a little puffy, definitely don’t touch it – that's a no-go!
Still too hot to handle in the middle? No worries! Just let it cool down a bit before using it again. A good iOpener will stay warm for about 10 minutes.
Depending on your microwave's power, you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. The iOpener is good to go when it’s just barely too hot to touch. Don’t burn yourself though – it should be warm, not scalding.
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick 30-second warm-up.
- As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener toasty—if it starts to cool down, just zap it in the microwave for another 30 seconds at a time.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle with care. Toss on an oven mitt if you want to keep your fingers happy.
- Carefully lift the iOpener out of the microwave by one of its flat ends—avoid grabbing the sizzling hot center!
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Step 4
The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs, okay? Safety first, friend!
No microwave? No problem! Just warm up your iOpener by dunking it in some boiling water to get it nice and toasty.
- Fill a pot or pan with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.
- Carefully dunk the iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully soaked.
- Use tongs to fish the warmed iOpener out of the water.
- Dry it off thoroughly with a towel.
- Your iOpener is now good to go! Need to warm it up again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and maintain the display's strength while you're gently prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep the shards in check and protect yourself by taping over the glass before you start.
- Cover the iPad's screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed.
- Follow the rest of the guide as usual. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.
Step 6
Heads up! You’ll be handling some broken glass here, so pop on a pair of safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from flying into your eyes.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Let it chill there for about 90 seconds to warm things up before you try to lift the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that opening tool in between the glass and plastic might take a little elbow grease! Take your time and be gentle, giving that plastic tool a little wiggle here and there as needed. You've got this!
- Check out this tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring located at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. This little spot is your golden ticket to get started.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a quick, light poke with the tip to gently pry open the crack.
Step 8
- Ensure that you position the tool just right—nestled snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 9
- Wedge the tip of the plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic pick into the gap right next to it. Take it slow and steady – you're almost there!
Step 10
- Pop that plastic opening tool out of your iPad, and slide the opening pick in a bit deeper, about half an inch under the front glass. You've got this!
Step 11
- While you work on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so you’ll need to bring some serious muscle. Take your time and work smart!
If the tip of your opening pick is peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out just a smidge. While having the pick in this deep won't cause any harm, it might just leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
- As the iOpener warms up that bottom edge, let's get started on freeing up the adhesive from the right side of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, and watch that adhesive let go as you glide along.
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad while you peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this can vary based on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you’ve been busy at work.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.
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Step 14
- Before you dive in and remove that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep the adhesive from getting too cozy again.
- Give your iOpener a little reheat love and then place it on the top edge of your iPad. Let's keep things warm and friendly!
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Step 15
Heads up! The Wi-Fi antenna is nestled right along the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Because of its position, you'll need to be extra careful here. One wrong move could lead to permanent damage to the Wi-Fi antenna, and that's not something we want. Take it slow and steady!
- Alright, folks, it's time to tread lightly! The next few steps need your utmost care.
- You'll be gently releasing the adhesive that keeps the antenna snug on the front panel. Just be sure to avoid any mishaps with the delicate bits that connect the antenna to the bottom of your iPad. Keep your focus and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner to avoid a Wi-Fi antenna mishap. Stay sharp!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding there.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner and could get snipped if the adhesive isn't treated with care. Let's handle this with finesse!
Keep the pick nestled under the front glass but don’t pull it all the way out—just slide it back a smidge so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked underneath.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Carefully slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so it won’t get damaged when you take the panel off.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heat game strong, but don't go overboard! Heat it for just a minute at a time and give it a cool-down break of at least two minutes before you heat it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled off too much, just pop the iOpener back on to warm things up and get that glue nice and soft again where you’re working.
- Keep peeling the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, sliding the opening pick out just enough to curve around the home button, then tuck it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared the home button.
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Step 20
Hey there! When working on iPad 4 models, be sure to gently slide that pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this area. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.
- Let the opening pick chill right under the front glass near the home button to hold your spot.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to get that adhesive nice and toasty in that spot!
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself is feeling a bit chilly, give it a quick heat-up and you’re good to go!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little nudge to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips that could damage your device or your fingers.
- If the pick is feeling stuck in the adhesive, try rolling it as shown in step 9 to ease things along.
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Step 23
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit, go ahead and take the iOpener off your iPad—makes things a bit easier. But if it’s still feeling sticky, no worries! Just heat up the iOpener again and place it on the left edge while you continue working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
Hey there! The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you're sliding that pick, just ease off when you're around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom. You've got this!
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty thin because the digitizer runs the entire left side. Keep your pick shallow, no deeper than half an inch (about 10 mm), to avoid any accidental digitizer drama.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady—nobody wants a nicked cable here!
- With the trusty opening pick still wedged under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the sticky adhesive in the bottom left corner. You've got this!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edges of your iPad can get a little too cozy and stick back down. If that happens, just take a pick and gently slide it under the edge where the front glass is still holding on tight, and give that adhesive a little snip!
- Grab one of your opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold it with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on, and use an opening pick to carefully slice through any sticky spots holding the front panel down.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You've got this!
- When it's time to put everything back together, don't forget to give that LCD a little TLC! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any pesky dust or fingerprints before you seal the glass back on.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently set that ribbon cable aside so you can get to the bottom left screw and keep on rolling with your repair!
- Unscrew the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You've got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care—it's a delicate little thing! That ribbon cable is as fragile as a soap bubble, and too much bending could send it popping.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently coax the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You've got this!
- Now, swing that LCD around its left edge and let it rest comfortably on the front glass panel. Look at you go!
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Step 30
- Gently slide the tip of your trusty spudger under the tape shielding the LCD ribbon cable connector, and peel it back like a pro.
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Step 31
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
- With a little finesse—either using your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers—carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 32
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse and use our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back where it belongs. If things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair!
