iPad 4 Wi-Fi Logic Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 46 Steps
Get ready to dive into the world of tech wizardry! In this guide, we're going to swap out the logic board like pros. Just follow along, and soon you'll be back to enjoying your device without a hitch. If you hit any bumps along the way, remember, we're here to help—just schedule a repair if you need it!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
It's a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in. That way, any pesky gunk stuck to the bottom won't hitch a ride on your iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the microwave, aiming for the center spot!
Tools Used
Step 2
Take it easy when heating the iOpener. Overheating it might cause a little pop, and we definitely don't want that! Keep the heat below 100˚C (212˚F) for a smooth repair.
If the iOpener looks puffed up, don't touch it. Seriously, it's not a stress ball!
If the middle of the iOpener is still too hot to handle, give it a breather. Let it cool down for a bit before re-heating. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
Microwave power can vary, so your heating time might need a little tweak. The iOpener is ready when it’s just a touch too warm to handle—perfect for loosening up those sticky spots!
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and warm.
- As you go along with the repair, keep an eye on the iOpener—it'll cool down. No worries though, just zap it again for another thirty seconds whenever it needs a little boost!
Tools Used
Step 3
The iOpener is going to be seriously hot, so handle with care! If you’re feeling cautious, grab an oven mitt for extra protection.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that toasty center. Stay cool and safe!
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
If a microwave isn't available, no worries! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener using boiling water.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener. We want it to take a nice, cozy bath!
- Heat that water until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat. We don’t want to cook the iOpener, just warm it up!
- Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's enjoying its soak and is fully submerged.
- Using some tongs (safety first!), lift the heated iOpener out of the water.
- Give the iOpener a good towel dry. We want it to be nice and dry before using it.
- And voila! Your iOpener is all set to help you out! If it needs another heat-up, just repeat the water boiling process and let it soak again for 2-3 minutes. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 5
Don your safety glasses to keep those peepers protected, and watch out for that LCD screen—it's more delicate than it looks!
This will keep those pesky glass shards in check while adding some solid support when you're prying and lifting the display.
- If your screen glass is cracked, protect yourself and keep the shards from spreading by taping over it before diving in.
- Cover the iPad's display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the whole front is shielded.
- Follow the rest of the steps as best you can. Just a heads-up—once the glass is cracked, it might keep chipping as you work, so a metal prying tool might be needed to gently lift pieces out.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you might be handling some broken glass here, it’s a smart move to pop on some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from catching you off guard.
- Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s nice and flat. Smooth it out so the iOpener is in full contact with the surface of your iPad.
- Now, give the bag about 90 seconds to work its magic before you start opening up the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
It might take a little muscle to slide the opening tool between the glass and plastic, but don't worry, it's all part of the process. Just take your time, gently wiggle the tool back and forth as needed, and stay patient. You'll get there!
- Spot the tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring over in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. That little opening is your secret entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge the tip in enough to gently pry the gap open a bit.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass to get in the perfect spot.
Step 9
- With the plastic opening tool's tip snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap, right beside the trusty opening tool.
Step 10
- Take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and gently slide the opening pick further beneath the front glass, going about 0.5 inches deep. A little patience here goes a long way!
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and reheat the iOpener, then pop it back onto the bottom edge to keep things nice and warm.
Tools Used
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to give it a little extra muscle! Take your time and be gentle with it.
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it out a smidge. While it's totally safe to use the pick this deep, it might end up spreading some adhesive goo all over the LCD. So, keep an eye out for that sticky situation!
- As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let's get to work on loosening that adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, freeing up the adhesive as you make your way along.
Tools Used
Step 13
You might want to reposition that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this is all about how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try 'rolling' it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.
Tools Used
Step 14
- Before you take out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, sneak a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. Nice and smooth!
- Give your iOpener another heat-up, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad. That'll make the next step even easier.
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Be careful while handling it—since the antenna's position is a bit tricky, one wrong move could leave it in a not-so-fun state. Keep steady, and you'll be good to go!
- Alright, time to slow down and take it easy. We're about to get into some delicate work here.
- You need to carefully free the antenna from its adhesive hold on the front panel. But remember, the antenna’s connection to the bottom of your device is a bit fragile. Handle with care and take your time with the next steps.
Step 16
Don't slide the pick too far past the bottom right corner – you could accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and that's no fun!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to break through the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out near the corner, and if you’re not gentle, you might accidentally cut through it. Let’s keep that signal strong!
Just a heads-up: don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass. Keep about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still tucked in, so it’s just barely peeking out. That'll give you the perfect leverage without popping everything off too soon.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad. This will help release the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna, so it can come apart smoothly.
Step 18
- Alright, let's get this party started! Once you've cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right by the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently slide the pick to the right. This will help free the adhesive that's keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
- Just a heads up: the antenna is held down at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. By doing this step, you're making sure the antenna gets detached from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, the antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 19
Keep your iOpener chill by heating it no longer than a minute each time, and give it a solid two-minute cooldown before the next round.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled off too much, just heat up the iOpener again to get that sticky stuff nice and warm where you’re working.
- Keep gently peeling back the adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick far enough to sneak it around the home button. Once you've passed the home button, poke it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 20
For iPad 4 models, be super careful and insert the pick no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this area to keep the home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of the iPad until it’s all free.
- Leave the opening pick snugly tucked under the front glass right by the home button to hold your spot.
Step 21
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave and place it on the left edge of the iPad to begin loosening up that sticky adhesive in that spot.
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, feel free to swap out the iOpener along the top edge and keep on working your magic. And if the iOpener itself has lost its heat, just give it a little reheating love.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scrapes on you or your iPad.
- If your pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of extra space. But if that adhesive is still holding strong, no worries – just heat up the iOpener again and place it along the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you slide that pick in, make sure to stop around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom. You're almost there!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, letting it free the adhesive as you go. This area has a thin layer of adhesive thanks to the digitizer lining the whole left side. Just be sure to keep the pick shallow (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You've got this!
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1" (25 mm) away from the edge of the iPad. Take your time and handle it gently so you don't accidentally cut this little guy.
- With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive away from the bottom left corner. You've got this!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to stick back down. When that happens, gently slide a pick under the iPad’s edge where the glass is still holding on, and carefully work through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab an opening pick and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up enough to get a good grip with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on, and carefully use an opening pick to slice through any glue keeping the front panel stuck.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting everything back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to clear off any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
That bottom left screw is playing peekaboo behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the ribbon cable out of the way so you can grab that sneaky screw and remove it.
- Start by unscrewing the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD in place on the aluminum frame. They’re small, so take it easy and don’t let them roll away!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and steady!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD away from the iPad.
- Now, carefully rotate the LCD from the left edge and lay it down on top of the front glass panel.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that piece of tape off the LCD ribbon cable connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Lift up the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.
- Gently wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel—just don’t touch the front side of the screen!
Step 33
If there's a piece of electrical tape hanging out, go ahead and peel it off! It's covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, and we want those guys to be free and clear for some smooth sailing.
Step 34
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Take it slow, you've got this!
Step 35
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. No need to rush—just take your time and let it come out smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the rear case.
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape that's holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently lift the little flap holding down the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors on both sides. Easy does it!
Step 39
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break the adhesive seal like a pro.
- Once it's loose, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy sockets on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 40
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab a spudger to carefully break the adhesive that’s keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case.
Tools Used
Step 41
- Give the digitizer ribbon cable a gentle tug with your fingers to lift it out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift off the front panel from the iPad and set it aside.
Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and carefully peel back that little strip of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
- Next, use the tip of your spudger to gently flip up the tiny retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board.
Step 43
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to break the adhesive bond holding it to the rear aluminum frame. Take it slow—no need to rush!
- Once it's loose, carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Keep it steady, and it'll come right out.
Tools Used
Step 44
Remember to gently pry under the connector, not on the socket itself! Going for the socket could lead to some serious damage, and we definitely want to keep everything in tip-top shape.
You might find a sneaky piece of black tape hiding this connector. Just grab some tweezers and gently peel it off!
- Alright, let's get this party started! First up, gently disconnect the following cables from their cozy homes on the logic board:
- Wi-Fi antenna cable
- Speaker connector cable.
- Dock/Lightning connector cable.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Let's loosen up these four screws holding the logic board to the rear aluminum panel—time to set them free!
- Three screws are 2.1mm Phillips #00,
- and one is a 2.5mm Phillips #00.
Step 46
- Grip the logic board by the edge opposite the Lightning connector and gently ease it away from the iPad. Go slow, be steady—this part is crucial to avoid any damage.
