iPad 4 Wi-Fi Microphone Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Get ready to tackle microphone replacement like a pro! Follow this guide to swap out that old mic for a brand new one. It's easier than you think!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate is spinning like it’s on a dance floor! If your iOpener gets caught in a groove, it might overheat and cause some unwanted drama.
Before diving into the repair, it’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean. Any leftover gunk or grime could get in the way and stick to your iOpener. Just a quick wipe and you’ll be all set!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. Make sure it's centered for the best results.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure! Overheating is a no-go, as it could lead to a dramatic burst. Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it's been hitting the gym and seems a bit swollen, steer clear of it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just keep using it while it cools off a bit more before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes.
Microwave power varies, so adjust the heating time as needed. Your iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too hot to hold comfortably.
- Give that iOpener a cozy thirty-second microwave spa treatment! It's like a warm hug for your device.
- As you work your magic on the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by giving it a quick reheat in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. You're doing great!
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Step 3
The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care! Grab an oven mitt if you need to—safety first, right?
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the flat ends—avoid the hot center, it’s toasty in there!
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Step 4
The iOpener gets pretty hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to avoid any burns.
If you don't have a microwave on hand, no worries! Just take a moment to heat your iOpener in some good old-fashioned boiling water.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Heat that water up until it’s bubbling like a hot spring. Once it’s boiling, turn off the heat.
- Now, gently place your iOpener into the steaming water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's taking a nice dip and is fully submerged!
- Use some tongs to carefully fish out the warm iOpener from its bath.
- Give it a good towel dry to ensure it’s all set.
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all prepped and ready to go! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the steps—boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards contained and maintain the structure when you're prying and lifting the display.
- If your screen is sporting a crack, let's keep it from shattering further and ensure you stay safe during the repair by applying some tape to it.
- Cover the entire face of that iPad with overlapping strips of clear packing tape, like a protective shield against additional damage.
- Try your best to follow the rest of the guide as we go along. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work, so be ready to use a metal prying tool to carefully scoop out the pieces.
Step 6
Heads up! You'll be dealing with some glass here, so for your safety, it’s a good idea to rock a pair of safety glasses to protect yourself from any unexpected glass bits flying your way.
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure to smooth it out for a snug fit. We want that iOpener to make some good contact with the surface!
- Allow the iOpener to hang out on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in and try to pry open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. Stay cool, be patient, and gently wiggle that tool back and forth until it slips in. You’ve got this!
- There's a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This is where we’re going to start working our magic.
- Line up your tool with the mute button, and gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and plastic bezel. You don’t need to force it—just enough to get the crack to widen a bit.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front glass—right in that sweet spot to get things moving smoothly.
Step 9
- Place the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick in right next to it, carefully working your way through the gap.
Step 10
- Gently take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches down. Keep it smooth and steady—you're doing great!
Step 11
- While you’re working on loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, go ahead and reheat your iOpener, then place it on the bottom edge of the iPad. Take your time – everything’s got its rhythm!
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Step 12
This adhesive is tough stuff—brace yourself and apply some muscle, but keep it cool and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick sneaking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a bit. Going this deep with the pick won’t cause damage, but it might spread some adhesive gunk onto the LCD.
- While the iOpener is working its magic on the bottom edge, start gently peeling away the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.
- Carefully slide the opening pick down the edge, as it lifts the adhesive. Take your time and let it do its job.
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Step 13
If you're finding it tricky to release the adhesive, you might want to place the heated iOpener back on the right edge of the iPad. Whether you need to do this or not depends on how much the iPad has cooled while you’ve been working. Keep an eye on it!
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently roll it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening the glue and make progress smoother.
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Step 14
- Before you dive in and pull that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, be sure to slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little move will keep the adhesive from sticking again, making your life a whole lot easier!
- Give your iOpener a quick reheat and then place it on the top edge of the iPad. You're doing great!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out on the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Since it’s positioned just so, take your time and handle it with care—one wrong move and that antenna could be toast!
- Heads up: the next steps need you to be super careful.
- You’ll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate connections attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick beyond the bottom right corner. Doing so could cause damage to the Wi-Fi antenna. Take it slow and steady!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hiding out there.
Step 17
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner, and if the adhesive decides to rebel, you might accidentally cut it. Let's be careful and make this a smooth operation!
Don't fully pull the pick out from under the front glass—just wiggle it a little so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays under there. A little goes a long way!
- Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna — smooth moves, you're doing great!
Step 18
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), gently slide the opening pick all the way back in.
- Carefully slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step frees the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Keep it cool! Don't heat the iOpener for more than a minute at a time, and give it a breather of at least two minutes before you heat it up again.
If the adhesive has cooled down too much at the bottom edge, give the iOpener a little heat-up session to warm up that sticky stuff where you’re working. Keep it cozy!
- Keep sliding that opening pick under the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully working it around the home button. Once you’re past the button, tuck the pick back in about half an inch (10 mm) to keep the adhesive coming loose without any fuss.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.
- Slip the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently heat up the adhesive in that spot.
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Step 22
If your adhesive is feeling a bit sluggish and has cooled down too much, simply swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep going. If your iOpener has lost its warmth, give it a little reheating love!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around that front-facing camera bracket. It’s like a little dance!
- The adhesive in this area is pretty tenacious, so you might need to channel your inner strength. Take your time and be cautious—no need to slip up and hurt yourself or your precious iPad.
- If your opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the gooey adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' move as demonstrated in step 9. You've got this!
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. But if it’s still holding on tight, just heat up the iOpener again and place it back on the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of the iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you're about 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it's time to hit the brakes on that pick!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the iPad's left edge, letting the adhesive release as you go. Keep it light here, since the digitizer runs along the left side. Aim for a shallow depth—no more than 10mm (about 1/2 inch)—to avoid messing with the digitizer. Stay smooth, steady, and don’t push too deep.
Step 25
The digitizer cable is super close to the bottom of the iPad, just about 1 inch (25 mm) away. Take your time and be gentle – we don’t want to cut that cable by mistake!
- Take that trusty opening pick still hanging out under the iPad’s bottom edge and gently work it to free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You got this!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edges of the iPad likes to stick back down. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the edge where the glass is still holding tight and carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to loosen it.
- Take one of those handy opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it's up, grab it with your fingers and pull it free.
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky spots that are keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and give the front glass a little twist away from the device. Be gentle, it's just a glass panel, not a boulder!
- When putting things back together, take a moment to wipe the LCD screen with a microfiber cloth and give it a quick blast of compressed air to remove any dust or fingerprints before sealing the glass back in place. A clean screen makes all the difference!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is tucked behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently shift the ribbon cable to the side to get that screw out.
- Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. Easy, right? Just a little twist and you're one step closer to freeing that screen!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a delicate little guy and could snap if you bend it too much. Stay gentle and keep it happy!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger, and gently work your way under the right edge of the LCD to lift it out of the iPad.
- Once you've got it lifted, slowly rotate the LCD along its left edge and carefully lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Easy does it!
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Step 30
- With the spudger's pointed tip in hand, gently lift up the tape that's keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector all snug and secure.
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Step 31
- Gently lift the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It's like a tiny door waiting to be opened!
- With a bit of finesse, use your fingers or a trusty pair of tweezers to slide the LCD ribbon cable out of its snug home on the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure not to touch the front of the screen.
Step 33
If you see it, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape that's hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. Let's get those components ready to shine!
Step 34
- Lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick.
Step 35
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 36
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the back case.
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape that's holding the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 38
- Gently flip up the little retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to get them ready for the next step.
Step 39
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break free the adhesive holding it down.
- Once you've done that, carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy little home on the logic board.
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Step 40
- Carefully lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to gently coax the adhesive that's holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. You're doing great!
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Step 41
- Gently use your fingers to wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad.
Step 42
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the adhesive tape that's keeping the front-facing camera connector snug as a bug. You've got this!
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Step 43
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop the front-facing camera out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly.
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Step 44
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the front-facing camera and pop it out from its spot in the rear case.
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Step 45
- Gently lift and detach the front-facing camera from the iPad.
Step 46
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the adhesive tape that's hiding the microphone ribbon cable. You're on your way to a smooth repair!
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Step 47
- With the spudger's pointy tip, gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
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Step 48
- Slide the spudger's tip under the microphone ribbon cable and gently nudge it out from its cozy spot in the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
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Step 49
Heads up! Don’t yank the microphone cable assembly all the way out—it’s still stuck to the top edge of the rear case with some stubborn adhesive.
- Gently slide the flat edge of a spudger under the microphone ribbon cable and lift it off the sticky adhesive that's holding it to the rear case. You've got this!
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Step 50
Next up: gently pry the microphone assembly using the small gap (highlighted in red) near the top right corner as your leverage point. You’ve got this!
Step 51
- To put your device back together, just follow the steps in reverse order and use our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive Strips guide to secure the front panel.
- If you hit a snag or want a helping hand, you can always schedule a repair with the pros.
