iPad 4 Wi-Fi Wireless Communications Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Follow this step-by-step guide to swap out the Wi-Fi antenna and get your device back online in no time.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins smoothly. If the iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and burn out. Keep it moving to keep things cooking!
It's a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean before moving forward. Any leftover gunk on the bottom could get stuck to the iOpener, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. No need to overthink it, just give it a cozy spot in there.
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Step 2
Take care not to overheat the iOpener while working on your device. Going above 100˚C (212˚F) can cause it to pop like a balloon gone wrong.
If the iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, don’t touch it—better safe than sorry!
If the center of the iOpener feels too hot to handle, keep using it gently while it cools down a bit before heating it up again. When warmed just right, it should stay toasty for about 10 minutes.
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. The iOpener is ready to go when it feels just a tad too hot to handle. Keep an eye on it, and you'll be all set!
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty!
- As you work through the repair, keep an eye on that iOpener. If it's starting to cool down, just give it another thirty-second zap in the microwave to keep the heat coming!
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener will be super hot, so handle with care. Oven mitts or a thick cloth are your best friends here.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers away from the hot center. It's warm, so proceed with care!
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Step 4
The iOpener's gonna be pretty hot, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs. You don’t want to give yourself an unexpected heat hug!
If you don't have a microwave, here's a fun alternative: heat your iOpener by submerging it in boiling water!
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat.
- Carefully dunk the iOpener into the hot water, making sure it’s completely submerged, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes.
- Use tongs to fish the warmed iOpener out of the water.
- Give it a good dry off with a towel so it’s ready to roll.
- Now your iOpener’s all set! If it cools down and needs another heat boost, just repeat the boiling and soaking steps.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and take care not to scratch that shiny LCD screen!
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and give your display a solid backbone while you're prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep any further shattering in check and protect your fingers by taping over the glass before you get started.
- Cover the iPad’s screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed up.
- Follow the rest of the steps as best you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work, so you might have to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass out.
Step 6
Just a heads up—you're likely going to be dealing with some broken glass in this step, so it's a great idea to throw on some safety glasses. It’ll keep you safe from those flying shards and make you feel like a pro!
- Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s lying flat and fully touching the surface. We want that warm connection to do its magic!
- Let the iOpener chill on your iPad for about 90 seconds. This will give it just enough time to warm things up before you start working on the front panel.
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Step 7
It might take a little muscle to slip the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take it slow and steady, gently wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth when needed.
- Take a look at the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner. You'll notice a tiny gap, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. This is your cue to get started.
- Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that little gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just sneak the very tip in, enough to gently widen the crack.
Step 8
- Be sure to slide that tool right into the sweet spot—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 9
- Gently slide the tip of the plastic opening tool into the space between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Once it's in place, grab a plastic opening pick and slide it right next to the tool, easing it into the gap.
Step 10
- Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad and gently slide the opening pick further beneath the front glass, going about 0.5 inches deep. You've got this!
Step 11
- As you work on loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, don't forget to reheat the iOpener and place it along the bottom edge. That way, you're giving both sides a little extra heat love to make things go smoothly.
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Step 12
This adhesive means business—expect to use some serious muscle. Take your time and handle with care!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking underneath the front glass, just gently pull it out a bit. Don't worry, using the pick this deep won't cause any harm, but it might leave a little adhesive residue on your LCD. Keep it cool and clean as you go!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start easing the adhesive loose from the right side of your iPad.
- Gently slide your opening pick down along the edge, carefully peeling away the adhesive bit by bit.
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad while you’re loosening the adhesive. How long the iPad has had to cool off during your work will decide if it’s a quick move or a little repeat action.
- If the opening pick decides to stick to the adhesive, no worries—just roll it gently along the side of the iPad and keep easing that adhesive off.
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Step 14
- Before you whip out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, pop a second pick snugly under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will keep the adhesive from playing tricks and re-sticking itself!
- Now, let’s give that iOpener another warm hug! Re-heat it and then place it at the top edge of the iPad, ready to work its magic.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case, held in place by screws and a cable. Given the tricky positioning of the Wi-Fi antenna, it's super important to tread carefully—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some lasting damage. Let's keep that antenna happy and functional!
- Alright, folks, it's time to tread carefully! The next few steps are a bit tricky, so let's keep our cool.
- You'll need to gently detach the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to avoid any mishaps with the delicate parts connected to the bottom of the iPad. So, take a deep breath and follow these steps closely!
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner — going further could mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna nearby—it’s right in the corner and can be easily damaged if the adhesive is released too aggressively.
Don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just slide it out a bit so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked underneath. Keep it cozy under there!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 18
- After you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully separates the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you remove the panel.
Step 19
Don't overheat the iOpener—keep it to one minute max, and give it a good two-minute break before reheating. Patience is key here!
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much along the bottom edge, just reheat the iOpener and give that spot some extra love to warm things up again before you continue working.
- Keep on peeling away the adhesive at the bottom of your iPad, gently pulling the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button. Once you're past that little guy, pop it back in to a depth of about 1/2 inch (10 mm). You've got this!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in up to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) here—just enough to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep sliding that adhesive release tool along the entire bottom edge of the iPad like a pro.
- Let the opening pick chill right under the front glass by the home button to hold your spot.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to heat it up, then place it along the left edge of your iPad to gently warm up that adhesive and get things loosening up.
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Step 22
If your adhesive has gotten a bit too cool, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on truckin'. And if that iOpener isn’t as toasty as you’d like, give it a little reheat and you’ll be back in action!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is quite the tough cookie, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Take it slow and steady, ensuring you don’t slip and accidentally create new challenges for yourself or your iPad.
- If the opening pick seems to be playing hard to get in the adhesive, try giving it a little roll, just like we showed you in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But, if it's still pretty sticky, give the iOpener another heat-up session and place it on the left edge while you continue working.
- Keep peeling away the sticky stuff at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the iPad's bottom. When sliding your pick in, chill and stop once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the left edge of the iPad to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. Heads up—the adhesive here is pretty slim because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Keep your pick shallow (no deeper than about 10 mm or half an inch) to avoid any unwanted digitizer drama.
Step 25
The digitizer cable is pretty close to the bottom of the iPad—only about 1 inch (25 mm) away. Take it slow and steady here to avoid accidentally cutting this cable!
- Gently wiggle the opening pick tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive holding down the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the iPad’s edge likes to play clingy and stick back down. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the glass is still holding tight and carefully slice through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold that corner with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover adhesive hanging around, and use your opening pick to gently slice through any stubborn bits that might still be keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You're doing great!
- When it's time to put everything back together, whip out a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD a spotless shine, free of dust and fingerprints, before you seal it up with the glass.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the home button ribbon cable aside and you'll be all set to tackle that pesky bottom left screw.
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and loosen up the four 2 mm screws that are keeping the LCD snug in place against the aluminum frame. Once those are out, you're one step closer!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is as delicate as a butterfly and could snap if you bend it too much.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad like you're unveiling a surprise.
- Now, swing that LCD around its left edge and lay it down on the front glass panel like it's taking a cozy rest.
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Step 30
- Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift and peel back the tape that’s covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.
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Step 31
- Gently lift up the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.
- Carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable free from its socket on the logic board using your fingers or a pair of tweezers.
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Step 32
- Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel, but be sure not to touch the front of the screen. Keep it cool and steady!
Step 33
If there's a piece of electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel it off carefully. It’s just holding things in place—no need for it anymore!
Step 34
- Gently lift the little flap on the home button ribbon cable's ZIF connector to unlock it.
Step 35
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Nice and steady!
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Step 36
- Carefully move the home button ribbon cable out of its spot in the rear case. Give it a little gentle tug, but make sure not to yank it too hard. We want everything to stay intact, right?
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the piece of tape that's holding the digitizer ribbon cable down to the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 38
- Gently lift the retaining flap on both digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them.
Step 39
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place. Give it a little wiggle to loosen things up!
- Once you're feeling confident, pull that digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. Nice and easy!
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Step 40
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully loosen the adhesive that's keeping the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You're doing great!
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Step 41
- Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.
- Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad.
Step 42
If you see it, go ahead and peel off that piece of electrical tape covering the Lightning connector cable. It’s just hanging out there, waiting for you to give it a little nudge!
Step 43
- Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the Lightning connector to the rear case—time to get those screws out and keep the show moving!
Step 44
- Gently coax the Lightning connector cable upwards using the flat end of a spudger, freeing it from its snug home on the logic board.
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Step 45
- Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the Lightning connector cable and lift it gently away from the aluminum frame.
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Step 46
- Gently wiggle and pull the Lightning connector straight out from its cozy spot in the rear case.
Step 47
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the speaker and Wi-Fi antenna connectors straight up from their sockets on the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 48
- Let's get started by taking off those pesky screws holding the Wi-Fi antenna onto the back case:
- Two tiny 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws (they're like the little ninjas of screws)
- One slightly longer 4.15 mm Phillips #00 screw (a bit of a show-off, right?)
- And one 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screw with a wider head (the big guy in the group)
Step 49
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the foam adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the speaker assembly. Give it a little wiggle to loosen it up and set that antenna free!
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Step 50
- Grab the Wi-Fi antenna and speaker cable like a pro, holding them together securely.
- Gently lift the cables away from the rear case—easy does it!
Step 51
- To put your device back together, just reverse the steps you took to take it apart, and use our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to stick the front panel back on. If things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair!
