iPad 5 LTE Logic Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 77 Steps
Hey, let's dive into swapping the logic board on your iPad 5 LTE—follow these steps to get it done. Fair warning: you'll lose all your data and Touch ID won't work anymore. We shot part of this with a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a bit different, but the process is the same for both models except where we note it.
Step 1
- Get your iOpener warmed up and gently press it against the left edge of the device for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As the adhesive starts to give way, keep an eye on these sneaky spots that don't like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
Next up, we're going to show you the Anti-Clamp in action, a nifty tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries! Just skip ahead three steps for a backup method.
For all the deets on how to work the Anti-Clamp like a pro, check out this handy guide.
If your iPad's surface is being a bit too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grab hold, a little tape can do wonders to give it the grip it needs.
- Give that blue handle a backward pull to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slip an object under your iPad to keep it level between the suction cups.
- Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on top, one on the bottom.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press firmly on the top cup to apply suction.
Step 4
- Grab that blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place – simple and smooth!
- Twist the handle clockwise all the way around, about 360 degrees or until you feel the cups starting to stretch a bit.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they stay lined up straight. If they drift out of alignment, just loosen them up a tad and realign the arms – no biggie!
Step 5
Ease up on the cranking—only a half turn at a time, and give it a minute's breather between twists. The Anti-Clamp and a little patience will get it done smoothly!
For all the nitty-gritty details on safely wielding a hair dryer, be sure to check this guide out!
If the Anti-Clamp isn't quite making the magic happen, toss in some extra heat and give that handle a little clockwise twist—just a half turn should do the trick!
- Hang tight for a minute—give that adhesive a chance to loosen up and create a nice little gap.
- If your screen isn't heating up enough, grab a hair dryer and warm along the left edge of your iPad.
- When the Anti-Clamp makes a big enough space, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Skip the next step.
Step 6
If your display is seriously cracked, try layering on some clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick. Or, opt for some heavy-duty tape in place of the suction cup. If nothing else works, a touch of superglue on the suction cup should get it attached to the broken screen.
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it near the left edge, as close to the edge as you can manage.
- Gently pull the screen up using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Now, slide an opening pick into that gap you just created between the digitizer and the frame. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 7
Hey, no biggie if you spot the opening pick through the digitizer—just slide it out. The LCD screen should stay safe, but keep an eye out for that pesky adhesive that could be a pain to clean up.
- Grab your second opening pick and slide it into that gap you just opened up.
- Smoothly glide the pick toward the bottom-left corner to break free from the adhesive.
- Park the pick in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, just roll it along the side of the iPad to keep breaking through that sticky grip.
Step 9
- Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to loosen that adhesive gently.
- Leave the pick in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 10
- Warm up that iOpener and gently apply it to the top edge of your device for two minutes—let's get things heating up nicely!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently swing the pick around the top-left corner to release that adhesive – nice work!
Step 12
Be careful around the front camera when using the pick, as it’s easy to accidentally damage the lens. We’ll guide you through how to avoid this in the following steps!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but pause just before you reach that front camera. You've got this!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick until only the tip is sandwiched between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick just above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick near the right side of the front camera as you move forward.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and glide it over to the top-right corner to fully separate the top adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling in the top-right corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 15
- Get that iOpener warmed up and gently apply it to the right edge of your device for two minutes to get things loosening up nicely.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Give that pick a little twirl around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 17
Those display cables are chilling about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Ease up on the sliding once you're three inches from the bottom.
- Grab a fresh opening pick and glide it to the center of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and let it hang out on the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes. This will help loosen things up, making your next steps smoother.
Tools Used
Step 19
Hey, take it easy on that full twist with the pick around the corner—you might nick the antenna!
- Slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Leave it parked there before we tackle the next move.
Step 20
Carefully glide the pick towards the home button and resist the urge to pull it away. You wouldn't want to accidentally give your antenna a bad day!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick again, feel free to pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Slip a fresh opening pick into the crack you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you hit the home button zone.
- Nestle the pick just to the left of the home button and hold tight before moving on.
Step 21
Be gentle when inserting the pick, just up to 1mm – we don’t want to accidentally mess with the right antenna!
- Pop an opening pick into that little crevice you just uncovered. You're doing great!
- Gently glide the pick under the home button, heading towards the bottom-right corner. Just be sure to keep the tip tucked between the digitizer and the frame. Nice and easy!
Step 22
Hey, slide that pick towards the home button only—sliding away could mess up the antenna.
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area again, simply pull it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Alright, pop the pick back in and slide it towards the home button to fully separate the bottom adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and press it gently to the right edge of your device for about two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic, so the adhesive softens up!
Tools Used
Step 24
Hey, take it easy on this step. Go slow, make sure the adhesive is nice and warm and pliable, and confirm you've pried up every bit with the pick. No sweat if you need to heat it up again!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges another blast of heat and carefully work your way around them with the opening pick.
- Give those two opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad. This will gently lift the digitizer just enough to break the last of that pesky adhesive. You've got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to keep separating the adhesive along the right side of your iPad – nice work!
Step 26
- As you gently hold the digitizer in place, grab an opening pick and slide it between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You're almost there!
Step 27
- Once you've peeled away all that adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat parallel to the iPad.
- When you're putting everything back together, give the remaining adhesive on the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—a good clean with isopropyl alcohol. Then pop in some fresh adhesive using our strips or pre-cut cards.
- Take it easy on those display cables as you reassemble. Make sure they're neatly folded under the LCD screen to keep things damage-free.
Step 28
- Peel away any tape covering those sneaky LCD screws. No more hiding, they’ve got work to do!
Step 29
- Let's get those screws out! Start by removing the four Phillips screws holding the LCD in place:
- Three 4.0 mm screws
- One 4.8 mm screw
Step 30
Hey, don't try fully removing the LCD yet—it's still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Just lift from the front-facing camera side.
Be gentle and keep an eye on those LCD cables as you flip the display over.
Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free surface to keep things protected.
- Take the flat end of your spudger and gently ease the LCD out of its snug little home, just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Flip the LCD over like you’re flipping a book page, starting near the camera and turning it toward the home button side of the rear case.
- Now, carefully lay the LCD face down so you can get to the display cables. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 31
Feel free to use an iFixit battery blocker if you have one handy! Just remember to keep it gentle—no need to go all out and shove the blocker too far under the connector. Take your time and be careful, you've got this!
Craft a battery blocker with a playing card and gently slide it under the logic board connector to disconnect the battery. Go on, you got this!
- Grab that single 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the logic board and remove it.
- Leave the blocker in place to keep the battery connector leads from making contact until you've finished your repairs.
Step 32
- Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 33
Be careful! The display cable connector is snugly glued to the bottom of the bracket, so when you're sliding that spudger in, keep it gentle. Push it too far, and you might accidentally damage the connector. You've got this!
- Gently take the flat end of your spudger and lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Carefully lift out that LCD screen, buddy!
Step 35
- Carefully peel off any tape that's covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
Step 36
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and give that tab on the home button ribbon cable's ZIF connector a gentle upward flip.
- Carefully slide the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 37
Be super careful with your iPad! When you're prying, make sure to only work on the connectors themselves—leave the logic board socket alone to keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets—take it slow and steady!
Tools Used
Step 38
If the home button ribbon cable decides to hang out a little too closely with the iPad's rear case, don’t stress! Just use a pair of tweezers to gently coax it away from the case, and then you’ll be all set to fully remove the front panel assembly like a pro.
The insulation is tricky to spot with the naked eye, and it's definitely not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you often see on many iPads.
- Carefully remove the front panel assembly.
- If you run into 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issues with your new display, try adding a thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Quality replacement panels typically include the right insulation, so extra tape might not be necessary.
- Without that insulation, the digitizer could ground out on other components, messing up your touch inputs.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back the tape covering the SIM board cable connector on the logic board. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 40
- Gently use the pointy end of your spudger to lift the little flap holding the SIM board cable in place.
- Carefully slide the SIM board cable straight out from its ZIF connector, no twisting needed.
Tools Used
Step 41
- Let's tackle those screws holding the upper component cable bracket in place:
- Two 2.0 mm Phillips screws
- Three 1.4 mm Phillips screws
Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and gently start peeling back the tape holding the upper component cable bracket in place—nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 43
- Gently lift that upper component cable bracket from the iPad, pal—leave the tape pieces on the bracket for an easy reinstall later.
Step 44
Hey, the upcoming steps are all about carefully unplugging a bunch of press connectors from their sockets on the logic board. When you're disconnecting those cables, make sure to pry up just the connector—leave that socket alone to keep things hassle-free. If this feels too tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
- Gently pry the front-facing camera connector free from its cozy little home on the logic board using the flat end of a spudger. Just take it easy and let it pop out smoothly – teamwork makes the dream work!
Tools Used
Step 45
- Hey, slide your opening pick under the front-facing camera cable to loosen that adhesive grip.
- Gently push the camera cable up with a spudger to reveal the ribbon cable connector tucked underneath.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board—nice and easy!
- Now, carefully nudge that second ribbon cable aside again to uncover more connectors underneath.
Tools Used
Step 47
- Gently use the pointed tip of your spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from its cozy spot on the logic board.
- Next, go ahead and use that same spudger to unplug the GPS antenna cable, which sits just to the right of the microphone connector.
Tools Used
Step 48
- Grab the flat tip of your spudger and ease the rear-facing camera cable straight up from its socket on the logic board to disconnect it.
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently lift the antenna interconnect cable straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board to disconnect it. You've got this!
Step 50
- With the flat end of your spudger, gently disconnect the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board. Nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 51
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the primary cellular antenna connector out of its socket on the logic board. Take your time—no need to rush! A steady hand will make this part a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 52
- Unscrew the tiny 1.4 mm Phillips screw that's holding on the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket. You've got this!
Step 53
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently lift the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket with its flat end—you’ve got this! Move it up and out of your way for now.
- The little S-shaped interconnect cable is still hanging out, chilling with the bracket through a press connector underneath. If it happens to take a little detour and disconnects, no worries! Just press it back into place, and you're back in business.
Tools Used
Step 54
- Peel back the black tape that's keeping the upper button assembly cable connector under wraps.
Step 55
- Gently use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the flap on the connector for the upper button assembly cable. Take your time—no rush, we’re in this together!
Tools Used
Step 56
This cable likes to be a little stubborn, requiring a fair bit of muscle. Remember to pull it straight back rather than upward towards the connector, and you'll be golden!
- With a steady hand and a bit of finesse, use your tweezers to gently pull the upper button assembly ribbon cable straight out from its connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 57
These sockets are kinda delicate, so apply pressure straight up to avoid shearing it off the board.
- Gently lift the left and right Wi-Fi antenna cables straight up from their sockets on the lower end of the logic board. They should come off easily—no need to force them!
Step 58
Take it slow and peel back the tape gently—leave the antenna cable alone, it’s fragile and could tear.
If you're having trouble with the tape, try folding the SIM board cable back a bit for more room. Just be careful not to mess with the SIM board cable. Need extra space? Go ahead and remove the SIM board if you must.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape holding down the right Wi-Fi antenna cable near the SIM board. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 59
- Repeat that last peel to grab another strip of tape right underneath, keeping the left Wi-Fi antenna cable secure.
- Oops, if both tapes peeled up together by accident, just carefully split them apart before heading to the next move.
Step 60
- Hey, you'll spot four more pieces of tape holding the left Wi-Fi antenna in place near the lower edge of your iPad.
- Gently peel the tape up from the rear case.
- Fold the antenna cable out of the way to keep things clear.
Step 61
Handle your tweezers like a pro—snag the tape and peel it off, but steer clear of the cable hiding underneath!
That bend in the speaker cable is making it a bit tricky to peel the tape from the end—take it easy and work carefully!
- Alright, grab the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, steering clear of the case edge.
Tools Used
Step 62
If you're peeling that tape off the right speaker ribbon cable, grab a spudger to keep the cable steady and avoid any rips—let's keep it intact!
- Gently peel the tape toward the home button to uncover that hidden speaker cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 63
- Keep peeling that tape until the left speaker cable has enough slack to disconnect it.
- Don't completely remove the tape—leave a section attached to the rear case for easier replacement later.
Step 64
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector upwards. It’s like giving it a little high-five!
- Now, carefully pull the left speaker cable straight out of its socket. Just like unwrapping a gift, but without the party hat!
Tools Used
Step 65
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector—this is where the magic begins!
- Now, with a careful tug, disconnect the right speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 66
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the two 3.3 mm screws that are holding the Lightning connector in place on the back case. Once those are gone, you're one step closer!
Step 67
Alright, in the upcoming steps, we'll grab the iOpener to gently heat the back of the iPad, loosening the adhesive that holds the logic board.
As you apply and position the iOpener on each marked spot, let it sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the rear case.
- The adhesive comes in seven strips of black tape—keep an eye on this step while you heat and pry to remember where each piece goes.
Tools Used
Step 68
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of your iPad to loosen up the adhesive holding the Lightning port ribbon cable to the back case.
- Give it a couple of minutes for that sticky stuff to soften up, then jump right into the next step!
Tools Used
Step 69
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector cable to loosen it from the rear case.
- If it's a tight squeeze, carefully move the left speaker cable to the side to get better access to the Lightning connector.
Tools Used
Step 70
- Place a warm iOpener on the top edge of your iPad and let it sit for a couple of minutes. This will help soften the adhesive keeping the logic board in place, making it easier to remove.
Tools Used
Step 71
As you dive into the next few steps, gently work at prying away the adhesive that's got the logic board all snug and cozy. Always start with a light touch to check if the adhesive is feeling a bit more relaxed. If it’s still holding on tight, give the iOpener another heat-up and place it back on the rear case for a bit more warmth.
Gently slide the pick over the antenna cable that runs along the battery's length. It's a delicate move, so take your time and be careful not to disturb anything nearby.
- Hey, slide an opening pick gently under the logic board, right between the front-facing camera and the battery.
- Now, glide that guitar pick toward the front-facing camera connector and pause at the bend in the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 72
- Heat up your iOpener again and place it lengthwise on the back case, right over the logic board.
- Give it a couple of minutes to work its magic and soften the adhesive, then take off the iOpener and move along to the next step.
Tools Used
Step 73
- Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board at the edge of the big EMI shield.
- Carefully glide the pick upwards until you hit the battery connector; this will help loosen the adhesive keeping that logic board snug and secure.
Step 74
Hey, take it easy with that card under the logic board—don't want to rough up those battery pins! If it's sticking around, give the adhesive a quick reheat with an iOpener to loosen things up.
As you cut through the adhesive on the outer edge, watch out for that upper button assembly ribbon cable you unplugged in Step 60—keep it safe! Line up the card exactly like shown in the image.
- Let's kick things off by gently removing that battery isolation pick.
- Now, slide a plastic card right under the logic board where the battery connector is hanging out.
- With a little finesse, glide the card all the way under the logic board, effortlessly separating the adhesive that’s been holding it down along the edge.
Tools Used
Step 75
- Slide a plastic card gently under the lower edge of the logic board, right at the spot beneath the display connectors and the Wi-Fi module. You're on the right track!
Step 76
- Gently pull the Lightning connector straight out from its recess in the rear case – you've got this!
Step 77
- Now it's time to put everything back together! Just retrace your steps but in reverse—like a dance move in reverse. If you hit a snag or need an extra pair of hands, just remember, we're here for you! Feel free to schedule a repair anytime.
