iPad 5 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 107 Steps
Take extra care when using the battery blocker to isolate the battery. You’ve got this, but a little caution goes a long way!
Time to swap out that battery in your iPad 5 Wi-Fi! When you're isolating the battery with a blocker, just be super gentle — the battery contacts can be a bit fragile, and once damaged, it’s game over. If you decide to skip isolating the battery (not recommended), steer clear of metal tools unless it’s absolutely necessary (like for screws) to avoid shorting the battery or messing with those delicate circuit components. And if things get tricky, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- Hang tight while that adhesive works its magic—keep an eye on these spots that get a bit touchy with prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
Get ready for some fun with the Anti-Clamp! This nifty little tool is here to make your opening adventure a breeze. If you’re going to tackle this DIY journey without the Anti-Clamp, just hop down three steps for a fallback plan.
For a complete rundown on how to expertly wield the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface is giving you the slip and the Anti-Clamp can't grab on, a little tape can create a much better grip. Get creative!
- Give that blue handle a backwards pull to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms—nice and easy!
- Slip something under your iPad to keep it level and comfy between the suction cups.
- Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge, with one up top and one down below.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, then give the top cup a firm press to get that suction going.
Step 4
- Gently pull that blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
- Twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or keep going until the cups start to stretch.
- Watch those suction cups to keep them aligned. If they slip out of sync, loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Take it easy with the turning—just a little twist, like half a turn max, and give it a minute to catch its breath in between. Let the Anti-Clamp do its thing while you chill out.
Need a little help with using a hair dryer? We've got you covered. Check out this handy guide for all the details on how to use it just right.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you enough space, no worries! Just add some extra heat to the area and give the handle a half turn clockwise. It should do the trick.
- Hang tight for about a minute so the adhesive can loosen up a bit and create a cozy little gap.
- If your screen isn't warming up as much as you'd like, grab a hair dryer and gently warm up the left edge of the iPad.
- Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has cooperatively made a nice enough space.
- Feel free to skip the next step!
Step 6
Got a severely cracked display? No worries! Slapping on a layer of clear packing tape might just do the trick to give that suction cup something to cling to. If you're feeling a bit bold, you can also use some heavy-duty tape instead of the suction cup. And if you're in a real bind, a little superglue can turn that suction cup into your screen's best friend. You've got this!
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it as close to the left edge as you can.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle, just enough to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Now, slide an opening pick into that gap, giving the digitizer and the frame just enough space to breathe.
Tools Used
Step 7
No worries if you catch a glimpse of that opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle tug and pull it out! The LCD screen should be just fine, but you might leave a bit of sticky adhesive behind that could use some cleaning up. But hey, you've got this!
- Slip in a second opening pick into that gap you just opened up.
- Slide it down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.
- Leave it parked there to stop the adhesive from gluing back together.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just gently 'roll' it along the side of your iPad to keep separating that sticky stuff. You'll get it unstuck in no time!
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up to the top-left corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Leave the pick in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of your device for about two minutes. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.
Step 12
Heads up! Keep the pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental damage. The next steps will guide you on how to steer clear of it with ease.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the device, but stop just before you hit the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull that pick out so just the tip is tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick up above the front camera to loosen that sticky adhesive.
- Park the pick near the right side of the front camera before we move on.
Step 14
- Slide the pick right up to the top-right corner of your device to help detach that stubborn top adhesive completely.
- Keep that pick snug in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn't get any sneaky ideas about re-sealing itself.
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently glide the pick around the upper right corner of your device to break through that adhesive like a pro!
Step 17
Hey, the display cables are chilling about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you're three inches from the bottom—nice and easy!
- Grab your opening pick and carefully slide it right to the middle of the iPad's right edge. Just take it easy and let it do its thing!
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and gently place it on the bottom edge of the device for about two minutes to get things loosened up nicely.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to over-rotate the pick around the corner—you don’t want to accidentally mess with the antenna!
- Slide that trusty bottom-left pick right into the corner to break free from that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick parked in the bottom-left corner before you dive into the next step!
Step 20
Slide that pick straight towards the home button—avoid going the other way, or you could mess up the antenna.
Hey, if you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
- Slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before you hit the home button.
- Leave the pick just to the left of the home button, and you’re ready to move on!
Step 21
Be super careful when inserting the pick—just slide it in about 1mm to avoid any mishaps with the right antenna. A little goes a long way!
- Gently slide an opening pick into that little gap you've made.
- Carefully maneuver the pick under the home button, sliding it towards the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip of the pick slip between the digitizer and the frame—keep it light and steady.
Step 22
Slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it, to avoid dinging the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, just pull it out and slot it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Carefully slide the pick toward the home button, making sure to peel off that stubborn bottom adhesive completely.
- Once you’ve got the pick in place, leave it just to the right of the home button before you move on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and press it gently against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. It's like giving your gadget a little spa treatment before getting to the good stuff!
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here—patience is your best buddy. Get that adhesive nice and toasty, then use your pick to peel it all apart. No rush, just hit pause and warm it up again if needed!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, try reheating those edges and gently work your way around with the opening pick. Take it slow, and remember—patience is key!
- Give those two opening picks a gentle twist on the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up just a bit, peeling away that stubborn last bit of adhesive.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to peel back more of that adhesive along the right side of the iPad. Nice and easy!
Step 26
- Hold the digitizer steady and slide an opening pick between those two display cables to peel off the last bit of adhesive.
Step 27
- Once you've peeled away all that adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—with some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut cards to keep it secure.
- Take care with the display cables during reassembly—fold them neatly under the LCD screen to steer clear of any damage.
Step 28
- Peel away any tape that's hiding those LCD screws. Time to get a good look at what's under there!
Step 29
- Unscrew these Phillips screws to release the LCD.
- You'll need to remove three 4.0 mm screws
- And one 4.8 mm screw
Step 30
Don't go overboard trying to take the LCD off completely just yet. It's still hanging on by a few cables near the home button. Gently lift from the camera side to avoid any trouble.
Take it easy while flipping the display. Keep an eye out for the cables as you go. You don't want to end up in a cable tangle!
Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean surface that's free of lint.
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently wiggle it under the LCD to lift it just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, flip the LCD like you're turning a page in a book. Start near the camera and gently rotate it over toward the home button side of the rear case.
- Place the LCD face down so you can easily access the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
Take it easy when isolating the battery with a battery blocker—those contacts are delicate, and a little mishap could lead to some serious damage. Handle with care!
Keep things safe and short-free by sliding in a battery blocker or a modified opening pick to disconnect the battery.
If that battery blocker is giving you grief under the logic board, try using a playing card instead—it's a handy trick to get it disconnected.
- Let's kick things off by removing that single 2.3 mm Phillips screw that's holding the battery connector to the logic board.
- Now, slide the battery blocker right underneath the battery connector area on the logic board, and keep it there while you get to work.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Let's gently remove those three 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket – nice and easy!
Step 33
Be careful when working around the display cable connector—it's attached to the underside of the bracket. Don’t push the spudger too far in, or you might accidentally mess with the connector. Take it easy and go slow!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and carefully lift the display cable bracket off the logic board. Take your time, steady hands make all the difference!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Carefully detach the LCD from the rest of the device.
Step 35
- Hey, gently peel away any tape that's covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
Step 36
- Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
- Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable horizontally out of the ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 37
To keep your iPad in top shape, gently pry only on the connectors themselves—skip the socket on the logic board to avoid any oops moments.
- Grab the flat end of a spudger or your trusty fingernail and gently pop those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. Nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive on the rear case, taking it nice and easy.
Step 39
Hey, just a heads up—this insulation is super tiny, not visible to the naked eye, and totally different from the foam dust strips you might see on other iPads.
- Carefully take off the front panel assembly.
- When putting it back together, give the inside of the front panel assembly a quick wipe to clear away any dust or smudges for that spotless display.
- If your new display starts acting up with those annoying 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, you can fix it by sticking on a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the marked spots on the back of the panel. Panels from trusted sources usually have the right insulation built-in, so you probably won't need extra tape.
- Without that insulation, parts of the digitizer might short out on other components, leading to touch problems.
Step 40
- Use your trusty spudger to gently slide it under the antenna cable, the one closest to the edge of the iPad. Once it's in there, give it a little nudge upwards to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 41
- You’ll spot two big strips of tape holding the right antenna cable snug against the rear case.
- Gently peel back the tape from the rear case.
- As you peel, keep the tape on the antenna cable—this little trick will help you when you’re putting things back together later.
Step 42
The antenna cable is securely attached to the speaker with a small metal bracket. This bracket is permanently crimped onto the antenna and glued to the speaker enclosure.
- Gently slide your opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
- Slide that pick toward the home button to slice through the adhesive.
- Give the bracket a push away from the speaker until it's free of the tape underneath.
Step 43
- Let's tackle these Phillips #000 screws holding the right antenna in place:
- One 2.3 mm screw
- Two 1.4 mm screws
Step 44
- Hey there, gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
- Now, glide that spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive keeping the antenna snug.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Let's carefully remove that right antenna from the iPad – nice and easy!
Step 46
- Slide your spudger under the left antenna cable and carefully lift it upward to disconnect the connector—easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 47
- You'll find five strips of tape wrapping around the left antenna cable, and they’re cozying up to the right speaker cable connector.
- Gently peel that tape off the back case—no rush, take your time.
- Carefully fold the antenna cable to the side, giving yourself some space to work.
Step 48
A kink in the speaker cable can make lifting the tape from the end trickier than usual.
Handle your tweezers with care — focus on grabbing and peeling just the tape, avoiding the cable underneath.
- Grab the tape just below the speaker and gently pull it downward, keeping it away from the edge of the case.
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently peel back the tape towards the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector. Easy does it!
Step 50
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointy end to lift up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
- Gently slide the speaker cable out of its ZIF connector—smooth and easy does it.
Tools Used
Step 51
- Peel off that tape securing the speaker to the rear case, nice and easy.
Step 52
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the back case with care.
Step 53
- Let's gently remove that 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the speaker to the rear case.
Step 54
- Slip your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove on the speaker housing, right by the corner of the back case.
- Gently tug the speaker downward, moving it away from the corner of the case.
Tools Used
Step 55
- Grab your spudger and gently coax the speaker out from under the rear case's edge.
- Carefully remove the right speaker from the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 56
- Let's get those three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws out—they're securing the upper component cable bracket. Go ahead and remove them!
Step 57
Heads up if you've got the Wi-Fi/Cellular model – your iPad might look a bit different and need two extra screws removed to get to the parts hidden under this bracket.
- Let's gently remove the upper component cable bracket.
Step 58
- There are two strips of tape still holding the left antenna cable in place on the back case.
- Gently peel up the tape from the back case and set it aside.
Step 59
- Gently wedge your opening pick between the speaker enclosure and that antenna cable bracket.
- Slide it towards the home button to slice through the adhesive like a pro.
- Give the bracket a nudge away from the speaker until it's free of that pesky tape below.
Step 60
- Time to bust out your screwdriver and remove the following screws:
- Two 1.4 mm Phillips screws
- One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
Step 61
- Slip the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly – nice and steady!
- Glide the spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive securing the antenna.
Tools Used
Step 62
- Carefully remove the left antenna from the iPad.
Step 63
- Peel off that tape hiding the left speaker cable connector – time to uncover it!
Step 64
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and carefully flip up that retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector – you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 65
- Gently wiggle the speaker cable out of its ZIF connector, no need to rush—let it come loose nice and easy.
Step 66
- Peel off that sneaky tape keeping the speaker attached to the back case – let's loosen things up!
Step 67
- Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the speaker in place on the back case.
Step 68
- Carefully lift that left speaker ribbon cable upward gently, ensuring it stays clear of the battery while you slide out the speaker enclosure.
Step 69
- Slide a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.
- Gently pull the speaker downward, away from the corner of the case.
Tools Used
Step 70
- Grab a spudger and carefully ease the speaker out from beneath the rear case. No rush, just give it a gentle nudge!
- Now, gently lift the left speaker free from your device. You're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 71
Pry only on the connector, buddy—not the socket itself, okay?
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and carefully disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.
- Fold that front-facing camera cable neatly out of the way.
- There's a dab of conductive adhesive on those gold-colored cable contacts—make sure to press them firmly back into place when reassembling.
Tools Used
Step 72
Hey, just gently pry up on the connector—skip the socket to keep things smooth!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board.
- Fold the rear-facing camera cable neatly out of the way, keeping things tidy.
Tools Used
Step 73
Gently pry up on the connector only—avoid pulling on the socket itself to keep things safe and sound.
Hey, in those newer iPad models, there's a slick loop of tape linking this connector to its home on the logic board. Just give that tape a quick snip to release the headphone jack and keep things rolling!
- Gently pry up the headphone jack connector from the logic board using the flat end of your trusty spudger.
- Carefully fold the headphone jack cable out of harm's way to keep it safe for the next steps.
Tools Used
Step 74
Gently pry only around the connector, not the socket itself. It's all about that delicate touch!
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop that microphone cable connector off the logic board. Nice and easy—no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 75
- Peel away any tape that’s hiding the upper button assembly cable connector. No need to rush, just a simple step to get you closer to fixing things up!
Step 76
- Grab the pointed end of your spudger and carefully flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 77
- Gently slide that upper button assembly cable straight out of its ZIF connector. It should come out smoothly, no need to force it. If you're feeling stuck, take a breather, and give it another go. You've got this!
Step 78
To spot these tiny screws, hold your iPad upright and peek down at the Lightning port – they're hiding right there at the bottom!
- Let's loosen those two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the Lightning port in place.
Step 79
Next up, grab your iOpener and start applying some heat to the back of your iPad. This will help soften the adhesive that's holding the logic board in place, making your life a lot easier.
As you work your way through the areas, make sure to leave the iOpener in each spot for at least a minute. This lets the heat work its magic, softening the adhesive so you can get to the good stuff.
- The adhesive comes in the form of six pieces of black foam tape—keep this in mind while you’re working on heating and prying, so you don’t lose track of where each piece goes.
Tools Used
Step 80
No big rush, but if your iOpener spends too much time chilling on the rear case, just pop it back in the microwave and reapply.
- Pop a heated iOpener on the camera end of the iPad's back and let it hang out for at least a minute to loosen up that adhesive inside the case.
Tools Used
Step 81
Alright, as you dive into these next steps to pry the adhesive holding the logic board, always give it a gentle test to see if it's softened up. If not, reheat the iOpener and slap it back on the rear case.
- Gently slide an opening pick beneath the logic board, right between the front-facing camera and the battery.
- Now, carefully move the pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop when you hit the bend in the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 82
- Hey, let's carefully slide that opening pick under the logic board, starting from the front-facing camera and heading towards the rear one.
Step 83
Give the iOpener a moment to work its magic—let it sit for at least a minute to help soften the adhesive holding the rear case in place.
- Take your heated iOpener and gently place it along the bottom edge of the iPad. Let it sit there for a bit to warm things up—this will help loosen things for the next step!
Tools Used
Step 84
The Lightning connector cable is glued to the case with some adhesive. To pry it free, you'll slide an opening pick between the cable and the case. Take it easy and don't slice the cable itself.
- Gently slide an opening pick under the Lightning cable where it connects to the logic board.
- Carefully work the pick down and around the curve in the cable. A little wiggle goes a long way!
Step 85
Take it slow and steady here. If the opening pick isn’t sliding easily, give it another go with a little more heat and try again. But remember, don’t force it! Too much pressure and you might accidentally slice through the Lightning connector cable, and that’s no fun.
- Gently slide the opening pick beneath the cable, but pause before you reach the bend near the Lightning connector.
Step 86
- Alright, slide the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector to peel away the last of that stubborn adhesive under the cable.
Step 87
- Gently pull the Lightning connector straight out from its snug spot in the rear case.
Step 88
Give the iOpener a minute to chill and work its magic on that sticky adhesive under the rear case.
- Gently place a heated iOpener on the left side of the rear case, right where the logic board is stuck.
Tools Used
Step 89
- Grab your plastic opening tool and wedge it into that rectangular gap up top on the logic board. Gently pry it up from the rear case – you've got this!
- With the tool still tucked underneath the board, slide it along the length of the gap to loosen the upper end from the adhesive. Nice and steady!
Step 90
Gently lift that end of the logic board. If you feel strong resistance, pause the prying and reapply the iOpener.
- Gently lift the logic board from the lower edge, right by the rectangular gap near the EMI shield. A little wiggle should do the trick!
Tools Used
Step 91
Be careful not to accidentally slice the battery with the opening pick. A punctured battery isn't just a nuisance—it can be dangerous! If you run into resistance, give the iOpener another round of heat and a little more love. Slow and steady wins the repair race!
- Gently wiggle an opening pick under the logic board, sliding it between the board and the battery like you're sneaking a note under a door.
- Glide the pick from the edge toward the center of the logic board to carefully loosen the adhesive, keeping it smooth and steady.
Tools Used
Step 92
- Gently slide that pick all the way along the logic board.
- With the adhesive cut, carefully lift the battery end of the logic board up from the rear case.
Step 93
- Gently lift the logic board starting from the side closest to the battery. Work your way up until you can slip an opening pick under the far edge of the logic board.
- Carefully slice through any adhesive holding the outer edge of the logic board to the back case.
Step 94
- Carefully lift the logic board out of the iPad and set it aside. Handle it with care, it’s a delicate part of the device.
Step 95
Don't let the iOpener get too toasty! Give it a breather for at least two minutes before reheating, and no more than 30 seconds in the microwave at a time. Trust us, it'll thank you later.
Time to get a little heat going! Using heat is an awesome way to soften the glue holding the battery in place. If you’re looking for a safer option, try injecting some adhesive remover between the battery and the case. It'll break down that glue like a charm.
Heads up: Your heat pack might cool off between uses. No worries, just reheat it for 30 seconds each time you move it around to keep things flowing smoothly.
- Give that iOpener a quick microwave spa – 30 seconds should do the trick to get it warmed up.
- Now, slap the hot iOpener right in the middle of the iPad's back. Hang tight for 90 seconds to let it work its magic on that sticky battery adhesive.
- Slide it over to the right side, steering clear of the rear camera, and let it chill there for another 90 seconds.
- One last move: shift it to the right-hand edge of the iPad and give it 90 more seconds to finish softening things up.
Tools Used
Step 96
As you slide those slim plastic cards between the battery and rear case of your iPad, keep them as flat as a pancake! This helps avoid bending the battery, which could cause some serious trouble by releasing harmful chemicals. Stay cool and take it easy—smooth moves only!
Hey, if you're hitting some serious pushback, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and redo the last step—that'll let the adhesive chill and soften up nicely.
- Carefully slide a plastic card under the lower battery cell, right at the bottom right corner—you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 97
- Got the card about halfway in? Slide it toward the top of the iPad, but hold up right before the battery contact post.
Step 98
- Gently lift the card a bit from the rear case to let it glide over that battery contact post.
- Slide the card smoothly from the center of the battery cells up to the upper right corner.
Step 99
- Slide a second plastic card about halfway under the left battery cell to keep it from sticking back when you reapply the iOpener.
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Step 100
- Pop an iOpener on the right side of the battery, opposite the cards, to loosen that sticky adhesive.
Tools Used
Step 101
- Gently wiggle the card around the bottom right corner of the battery to loosen it up.
Step 102
- Gently slide the plastic card over to the lower left corner of the battery.
Step 103
- Push the card in deeper, busting as much of the adhesive gripping the battery as possible.
- Slide the plastic card underneath the lower left corner of the battery.
Step 104
Take it easy sliding that card past the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables—let's not accidentally nick 'em!
- Gently slide the card around the upper right corner of the battery to loosen things up – nice and easy!
Step 105
Hey, gently slide that card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to keep from nicking them!
- Gently glide that plastic card over to the upper left corner of the battery.
Step 106
- Gently press the card in a little more, working to peel away as much of the sticky stuff that’s holding the battery in place as you can.
- Slide the plastic card under the upper left corner of the battery to get things moving.
Step 107
- Grab both cards with a firm hold and give them a little twist to lift the battery off the rear case. It’s like opening a little treasure chest!
- Once you've done that, gently lift the battery out of the rear case. You’re almost there!
