iPad 5 Wi-Fi Front Panel Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 45 Steps
Ready to swap out the front glass and digitizer on your iPad 5? No worries, we've got you covered! Just a heads-up: since the Touch ID sensor in the home button is linked to the logic board, you'll need to transfer the original home button to your new front panel assembly if you want to keep that fingerprint feature. When isolating the battery with a battery blocker, be careful—those battery contacts are delicate and could get damaged easily. If you decide to skip the isolation step (not recommended), be super careful with metal tools, especially when you're removing screws. We want to avoid shorting the battery or causing any trouble with the sensitive circuits. If you're feeling unsure or stuck, don't hesitate to schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your device for about two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you're letting that adhesive take its sweet time to loosen up, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that are a bit touchy when it comes to prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The upcoming three steps show how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries—just skip ahead three steps for another way to get this done.
For a full walk-through on how to handle the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a better hold.
- Gently pull the blue handle back to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms. It's like giving it a little stretch!
- Place your iPad on a flat surface with something underneath to keep it steady—like a comfy pillow for your tablet.
- Position the suction cups about halfway along the left edge, one on top, and one on the bottom. It's like giving your iPad a nice little hug.
- Now, hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down on the top cup to activate the suction. Make sure to apply some solid, but gentle pressure.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
- Twist the handle a full 360 degrees clockwise, or until the suction cups start to stretch out a bit.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—make sure they're staying lined up. If they start slipping, just loosen them a little and adjust the arms back into position. Easy peasy!
Step 5
Take it easy! Don't twist more than a half-turn at a time, and give it a minute to breathe between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp do its thing and take the pressure off you.
For a full walkthrough on how to use a hair dryer effectively, check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough space, try heating the area a bit more and twist the handle clockwise by half a turn.
- Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive chill out and form a little gap for you.
- Not feeling the heat? Give your iPad's left edge a gentle blast with a hair dryer to warm things up.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has done its thing and there's a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Feel free to jump ahead to the next step!
Step 6
Got a cracked screen? No worries! Try putting a layer of clear packing tape over it to help the suction cup stick. If that's not enough, you can always use some strong tape as a backup. In case the screen is giving you extra trouble, a little superglue on the suction cup could do the trick. You're on your way to a smooth repair—just keep going!
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and gently place it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle, creating a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap you've just made between the digitizer and the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle tug. The LCD screen should be just fine, although you might want to watch out for that sticky adhesive that can be a bit of a chore to clean up.
- Pop in a second opening pick right where you just made some space.
- Gently glide that pick down towards the bottom-left corner of your device to help break free the adhesive holding things together.
- Once you’re there, just leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to keep that adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 8
- If your opening pick is having a little trouble with the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a champ!
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the device's top-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in there to stop the adhesive from sticking back together like it never left.
Step 10
- Grab that iOpener and give it a nice warm-up! Apply it to the top edge of your device for two minutes. You're on your way to a successful repair!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens—sliding it there could mess up your shot. Don’t worry, the next steps have got you covered on how to dodge that!
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but hold up right before you bump into the front camera. You're doing great!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick right over the front camera to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Pop the pick back in and slide it up to the top-right corner to fully free up that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen that sticky adhesive and get things moving.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. When you're sliding, make sure to pause when you're just three inches from the bottom – it's like a little 'stop and smell the roses' moment for your device!
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it into the middle of the iPad's right edge. You've got this!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner — we want to keep that antenna safe and sound!
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that adhesive.
- Keep the pick snug in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Keep the pick sliding towards the home button—no sneaky moves away from it, or you might mess up the antenna!
If you're finding it tricky to slide the pick in this area, no worries! Just take it out, reposition it at the bottom-left corner, and try again.
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.
- Leave the pick just to the left of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Pop the pick in just 1 mm deep—go any deeper and the right antenna might get grumpy!
- Time to start the magic! Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you’ve just made.
- Now, carefully work the pick under the home button and move it toward the bottom-right corner. Just make sure you only slide the tip between the digitizer and the frame—no need to go overboard!
Step 22
Be sure to slide that pick towards the home button only! Going the other way might just invite some antenna trouble, and we don’t want that!
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little wiggle towards the home button to fully free up the bottom adhesive. You're almost there!
- Now, leave the pick hanging out to the right of the home button for the next step. Keep going, you're doing great!
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things loosened up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to separate, and carefully work your pick all around to loosen it. Don’t hesitate to pause and reheat if you need to—patience pays off!
If you're feeling a bit of resistance, no worries! Just warm up those edges again and gently glide your opening pick along them. You've got this!
- Gently twist the two opening picks into the left corners of the iPad to give that digitizer a little lift, while also saying goodbye to the last bits of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
- While holding the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After carefully separating all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting things back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything secure.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while reassembling. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any damage.
Step 28
- Peel off any tape that's hiding those sneaky LCD screws!
Step 29
- Time to tackle those screws! Let's get the LCD free by removing the Phillips screws holding it in place.
- First up, you'll need to take out three 4.0 mm screws.
- And don't forget to grab that one 4.8 mm screw too!
Step 30
Hold up! Don’t try to yank the LCD off completely just yet — it’s still hanging on by a few cables near the home button. Start lifting gently from the front-facing camera side instead.
Take it slow and watch those LCD cables like a hawk as you flip the display over.
Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean surface that won't leave any pesky lint behind.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to nudge the LCD out of its snug little home—just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, treat that iPad LCD like a fresh, exciting book! Flip it open near the camera and let it gracefully turn over towards the home button end of the rear case.
- Set the LCD down on its face to give yourself a clear view of those display cables waiting for your attention.
Tools Used
Step 31
Handle the battery contacts with extra care when using a battery blocker—these little guys are delicate and a slip-up can cause permanent damage. Play it cool and take your time!
To keep shorts at bay, consider using a battery blocker or a nifty modified opening pick to safely disconnect the battery.
If the battery blocker is playing hard to get under the logic board, a trusty playing card can come to the rescue for a smooth battery disconnection.
- Time to get your screwdriver out! First, let's tackle that tiny 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector snugly to the logic board. Give it a gentle twist and remove it.
- Next up, slide the battery blocker under the battery connector area of the logic board. Keep it there while you work your magic!
Tools Used
Step 32
- Unscrew those three 1.4 mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket and let's get this party started!
Step 33
Be careful not to push the spudger too far under the bracket, as the display cable connector is stuck to the bottom of it. Going too deep could lead to some unwanted damage to that connector!
- Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the display cable bracket and lift it straight up off the logic board like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 34
- Gently detach the LCD screen. It's like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Hey, time to come off!'
Step 35
- Carefully peel away any tape hiding the home button ribbon cable connector.
Step 36
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift that little tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s like giving it a friendly nudge to say, 'Hey, time to come out!'
- Now, with a steady hand, gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Think of it as sliding out a secret note—smooth and easy!
Tools Used
Step 37
Be gentle when prying around those connectors! Stick to the connectors themselves, and steer clear of the logic board socket. Your iPad will thank you for it!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your trusty fingernail to nudge those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their cozy little sockets. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable off the adhesive that's keeping it snug against the rear case. Take your time and go slow—no rush, it’ll come off easily!
Step 39
You won't spot the insulation just by looking—it’s a sneaky little layer, quite different from the foam dust barrier strips you see on many iPads.
- First up, let's detach that front panel assembly. It's time to get up close and personal with your device!
- As you put everything back together, don't forget to give the inside of the front panel a little TLC. A quick wipe down will keep your display looking sharp and free of dust or fingerprints.
- If you find yourself dealing with those pesky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches on your new display, fear not! Just grab some ultra-thin insulating tape, like that cool Kapton (polyimide) tape, and stick it to the areas we highlighted on the back of the panel. Good news: our panels come with the right insulation, so you might not need any extra tape!
- Remember, without the right insulation, those digitizer areas could accidentally connect with other components, leading to touch input chaos. Let's keep things smooth and functioning!
Step 40
- Start by carefully lifting the home button cable from the back of the front panel. Take it slow!
- Keep peeling until you hit the metal shield on the cable. Almost there!
Step 41
- Slide an opening pick between the metal shield and the front panel, then gently nudge it away from the digitizer like you're coaxing a shy cat out from under the bed.
Step 42
- Carefully lift the metal contact off the home button bracket with a gentle touch.
Step 43
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently nudge the home button bracket away from the back of the front panel. It's like giving it a little hug to say goodbye!
- Once you've popped one side of the home button bracket loose, hold onto it firmly and peel it off the front panel like it's a sticker that's outstayed its welcome.
- When it's time to put the home button bracket back on, a little dab of adhesive or some double-sided tape will do the trick to keep it snug and secure!
Step 44
Take it easy and apply pressure gently. There's a fragile gasket involved here that could tear if we're not careful.
- Gently press the home button from the outside of the digitizer to loosen the adhesive holding it down.
Step 45
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse—easy peasy! And if you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair with us.
