iPad 5 Wi-Fi Right Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Take it slow and easy when isolating the battery with that battery blocker—safety first!
Hey, let's replace that right-hand speaker in your iPad 5 Wi-Fi. Take it nice and easy when isolating the battery with your battery blocker—those contacts can get dinged up real quick, and that might mean goodbye to your logic board. If you're skipping the battery isolation, steer clear of metal tools except when you absolutely have to, like for screws, to avoid a short and zapping the sensitive bits.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and gently apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes – nice and easy.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is loosening up, keep in mind these delicate areas to pry carefully around:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp, our nifty tool that makes opening up your device a breeze. If you're not using it, just skip ahead three steps for an alternative approach.
For all the details on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface feels too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, add some tape to give it better traction.
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slide an object under your iPad to keep it level and stable between the suction cups.
- Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top and one on the bottom.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, then press firmly on the top cup to create some solid suction.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place. Nice and secure!
- Give the handle a solid 360-degree turn (or until the suction cups start to stretch). Keep going—you got this!
- Double-check that the suction cups are lined up perfectly. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms. Easy fix!
Step 5
Ease up on the cranking—half a turn max per go, then give it a full minute to breathe. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience take over!
Need a refresher on how to use a hair dryer? No worries! Check out this guide for all the deets.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't creating enough of a gap, just heat it up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise to make sure it's doing its thing.
- Hang tight for a minute—let that adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap to work with.
- If things aren't heating up as they should, grab a hair dryer and give the left edge of your iPad a warm blast.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough space, slide your opening pick right under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next one.
Step 6
- Once the screen feels nice and warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it on the left edge, right up against the side for the best grip.
- Gently lift the screen with that suction handle to open up a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame – you're on a roll!
If your screen's shattered, don’t panic! A layer of clear packing tape could give the suction cup a little more grip. If that doesn't do the trick, you can always go for a super-strong tape as a backup. And if you're feeling a bit daring, a dab of superglue on the suction cup could help it stick to that cracked screen. Just remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 7
No sweat if you spot the opening pick poking through the digitizer—just slide it out. Your LCD screen should be fine, but watch out for any stubborn adhesive that might need a good cleaning later.
- Slide a second opening pick into the gap you just made. Don't be shy, it should fit right in.
- Now, gently move the pick toward the bottom-left corner. This is where the magic happens—separating that stubborn adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling in the bottom-left corner. This will keep the adhesive from getting any funny ideas and sealing back up.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently 'rolling' it along the side of the iPad to keep the adhesive separation moving smoothly.
Step 9
- Gently slide the opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal.
- Once you're in the top-left corner, leave the pick in place to keep that adhesive from sealing back up.
Step 10
- Heat up that iOpener and gently apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes – you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently work the pick around the top-left corner of your device to loosen the adhesive. Take your time – no need to rush here!
Step 12
Steer clear of sliding the pick over the front camera to avoid messing up the lens. The upcoming steps will guide you on dodging that pitfall.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge, but stop just shy of the front camera—don't go all the way, you’ve got this!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until only the tip is left snug between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick up above the front camera to peel away that adhesive.
- Leave the pick hanging out near the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Slide that pick back in and glide it up to the top-right corner to fully break loose the top adhesive.
- Keep the pick parked in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from gluing back up.
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and press it to the right edge of your device for a good two minutes. Let that heat work its magic!
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently swivel the pick around the top-right corner of the device to break free that pesky adhesive.
Step 17
Hey, the display cables are chilling about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Pause your slide when you hit the three-inch mark from the base.
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and gently place it on the bottom edge of the device for two minutes—let's get that adhesive nice and soft!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to twist the pick too much around the corner – you don’t want to accidentally mess with the antenna.
- Slide the bottom-left pick into the bottom-left corner to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button only—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we definitely want to keep that happy!
If the pick needs another go over this part, just pop it out and slide it back in from the bottom-left corner. Nice and easy!
- Slip a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you hit the home button.
- Park the pick just to the left of the home button and get ready for the next move.
Step 21
Careful now—slide that pick in just 1 mm max to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you've just made. Be smooth, no rush!
- Now, carefully work the pick underneath the home button, moving towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure the tip stays between the digitizer and the frame—you're doing great!
Step 22
Slide the pick toward the home button—don't go the other way, or you might zap that antenna!
If you need to glide the pick over this section once more, just take it out and pop it back in from the bottom-right corner.
- Grab the pick and gently slide it towards the home button to peel off that stubborn bottom adhesive.
- Once you're there, leave the pick resting just to the right of the home button and take a breather before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and gently apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes—let's get this heat going!
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and soft, and use a pick to carefully separate it all. If you're unsure, it's totally fine to pause and reheat – no rush, just make sure it's done right.
Hey, if you hit some serious pushback, just warm up those edges again and glide your opening pick along them smoothly.
- Give those two opening picks a gentle twist at the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer just a smidge, peeling away the last bits of that sticky adhesive.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to help separate that pesky adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
Step 26
- Hold the digitizer steady and gently wiggle an opening pick between the two display cables to loosen the last bit of stubborn adhesive.
Step 27
- Once you've peeled away all that stubborn adhesive, flip open the digitizer like you're opening a favorite book and lay it flat beside the iPad.
- When putting things back together, give the frame a good wipe-down with isopropyl alcohol to clear off any leftover adhesive—and don't forget the digitizer if you're reusing it. Swap in some fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut cards for a solid hold.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly; tuck them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.
Step 28
- Peel off any tape that's covering the LCD screws to clear the way.
Step 29
- Time to gently remove the Phillips screws holding the LCD in place.
- You'll be taking out three 4.0 mm screws and one 4.8 mm screw.
Step 30
Don't try to fully take off the LCD just yet! It's still connected to the iPad by a few cables near the home button. Gently lift from the front-facing camera side first.
Take it easy and keep an eye on those LCD cables as you carefully flip the display over.
Place the LCD gently on a soft, clean surface free from any lint. You want it to stay safe and scratch-free, so let’s treat it with some TLC!
- Grab your spudger's flat end and gently pry the LCD out of its spot—just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, flip that iPad LCD like turning a page, lifting by the camera and swinging it over toward the home button side of the rear case.
- Lay the LCD face-down to give yourself easy access to those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
Handle the battery blocker with care! Those battery contacts are delicate little things, and a slip-up could cause permanent damage. Keep it cool and steady.
To avoid any accidental short circuits, try using a battery blocker or a handy modified opening pick to disconnect the battery.
Struggling to slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board? A playing card can be a great backup to help you safely disconnect the battery.
- Unscrew that lone 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the logic board—think of it as freeing the little guy!
- Slide the battery blocker gently under the battery connector area on the logic board and let it chill there while you handle the next steps.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding that display cable bracket in place. A little twist, and you're good to go!
Step 33
The display cable connector is stuck to the underside of the bracket, so be gentle with your spudger. Don’t go too deep under the bracket, or you might accidentally damage that connector. Take your time here!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board – nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Gently lift the LCD off. No rush, take your time and make sure everything is loose and ready to come free.
Step 35
- Peel off any tape hiding the home button ribbon cable connector to set it free.
Step 36
- Grab the flat side of your spudger and gently lift the tab on the home button ribbon cable's ZIF connector. Just a little nudge is all it needs!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully pull the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Keep it smooth and easy, no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 37
Hey, champ, to keep your iPad safe, pry only on the connectors themselves—not the socket on the logic board.
- Grab the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to gently pop those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. Take it slow and steady!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive on the rear case – take it slow and steady!
Step 39
Pro tip: this insulation stays hidden from plain sight and differs from the foam dust strips found on plenty of iPads.
- Pop off that front panel assembly!
- When putting it back together, give the inside of the front panel a quick wipe to banish any dust or fingerprints for that spotless display.
- If you're running into those annoying 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issues on your new display, fix it by adding a layer of super thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Some panels already come with this insulation, so you might not need to add any extra tape.
- Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can short out against other components, causing touch input glitches.
Step 40
- Slide your spudger beneath the antenna cable near the iPad's edge and give it a gentle upward lift to disconnect that connector—easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Hey, check it out—there are two big pieces of tape coiled around the right antenna cable, holding it snug to the back case.
- Gently peel that tape away from the back case, taking it easy.
- As you lift the antenna tape, keep it attached to the cable for now—it'll make putting everything back together a breeze.
Step 42
The antenna cable connects to the speaker using a small metal bracket. This bracket is crimped permanently onto the antenna and glued to the speaker enclosure.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket—like you're slipping a note under a door.
- Carefully slide the pick toward the home button to sever the adhesive. Take it slow—patience is key.
- Now, give the bracket a little nudge to push it away from the speaker, just enough to free it from the tape underneath.
Step 43
- Let's unscrew the Phillips #000 screws holding the right antenna:
- One 2.3 mm screw
- Two 1.4 mm screws
Step 44
- Slip the flat tip of your spudger right between the antenna and the speaker assembly for a smooth entry.
- Slide it toward the home button to slice through that foamy adhesive holding the antenna in place.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Gently pull out that right antenna from the iPad – easy does it!
Step 46
- Gently slide a spudger under that left antenna cable and lift it up to disconnect the connector – easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 47
- There are five pieces of tape holding down the left antenna cable, and they're covering the connector for the right speaker cable. Sneaky, right?
- Gently peel the tape off from the rear case—no need to rush, take your time!
- Carefully fold the antenna cable out of the way so it’s not in your way while you work.
Step 48
That bend in the speaker cable can make peeling the tape a bit tricky from the end.
Handle your tweezers with care—only grip and lift the tape, not the cable below.
- No worries, just grab the tape right below the speaker and peel it downward, keeping it clear of the case's edge.
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently peel back the tape towards the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector. Easy does it!
Step 50
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointy end to gently lift the flap holding the right speaker cable connector in place.
- Once that flap is up, carefully slide the speaker cable right out of its ZIF connector. Easy, right?
Tools Used
Step 51
- Peel off the tape that's keeping the speaker stuck to the rear case.
Step 52
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the back case, just like peeling a sticker off a book!
Step 53
- Take out the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that's holding the speaker to the rear case. You got this!
Step 54
- Gently slide a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove on the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case.
- Give the speaker a little nudge, pulling it away from the corner of the case. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 55
- Grab a spudger and gently work it under the edge of the rear case to loosen the speaker.
- Carefully lift the right speaker out of the iPad. It's time for it to come free!
