iPad 6 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 108 Steps
Handle with care when you're isolating the battery with a blocker. A little caution goes a long way!
Replacing the battery in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi? No problem, we’ve got you covered. If the battery’s looking a little swollen, be sure to take the necessary precautions. When you're working with the battery, use a battery blocker carefully. The battery contacts can be delicate, and if they get damaged, it can mess with the logic board—big time. If you’re skipping the isolation step (we get it, sometimes it's not for everyone), just keep metal tools to a minimum unless you're unscrewing something. We want to avoid shorting the battery and frying sensitive circuits. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Let's get things warmed up—heat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you're letting that adhesive loosen up, keep an eye on these areas—trust us, they don't like being pried around too much:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we came up with to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just jump down three steps for another way to get it done.
For a full rundown on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a little tug backward to release the Anti-Clamp's arms. You got this!
- Set your iPad down on something soft so it rests comfortably in between the suction cups, nice and level.
- Place the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on top, one on bottom, like a perfect little sandwich.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down gently but firmly on the top cup to apply suction. You’re almost there!
Step 4
- Gently pull that blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
- Twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep those suction cups aligned with each other. If they slip out of whack, loosen them a tad and realign the arms.
Step 5
Take it easy and don’t tighten more than half a turn at a time. Give it a minute between each turn—let the Anti-Clamp and some time do the heavy lifting for you.
For the full rundown on using a hair dryer, check out this guide. It's all the tips and tricks you'll need!
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t quite creating enough space, just give the area some extra heat and turn the handle clockwise for a half-turn. That should do the trick!
- Hang tight for a minute so the adhesive can loosen up and create a little space.
- If the screen's not warming up enough, grab a hair dryer and gently heat the left edge of your iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp makes a good-sized gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- You can skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen's got some serious cracks, try slapping on a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick. Or swap in some super-strong tape as a plan B. When all else fails, a tiny bit of superglue on the suction cup could save the day!
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle, just enough to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slip an opening pick into that gap you’ve created between the digitizer and the frame. You’re almost there!
Tools Used
Step 7
Hey, if you spot the opening pick showing through the digitizer, just slide it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but keep an eye out for any stubborn adhesive that might stick around.
- Pop in a second opening pick where you made that little gap.
- Gently slide the pick down toward the bottom-left corner to break the adhesive seal.
- Leave the pick chilling in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t try to make a comeback.
Step 8
- Hey, if your opening pick gets stuck in that gooey adhesive, just roll it along the side of the iPad to keep separating things smoothly.
Step 9
- Slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to break free from that pesky adhesive – easy does it!
- Keep the pick parked in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn't try to re-seal. Good thinking!
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Give it some time to work its magic—patience is key!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to break through the adhesive holding things together.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick too close to the front camera – that lens is precious! Follow the steps ahead to keep it safe and sound.
- Gently glide that opening pick along the top edge of your device, but stop right before you hit the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick smoothly above the front camera to loosen that adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling near the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Slide the pick into the top-right corner of the device to loosen that stubborn adhesive. Keep pushing until it gives way and completely separates.
- Leave the pick in place at the top-right corner. This keeps that adhesive from sticking back together and gives you a little breathing room.
Step 15
- Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and gently press it along the right edge of the device for two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables are about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Slide carefully, and stop when you’re about three inches from the bottom. No need to rush—just take it easy and let the cables do their thing!
- Grab a new opening pick and slide it carefully along the right edge of your iPad until you reach the middle.
Step 18
- Warm up that iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner—you don't want to accidentally mess up the antenna.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep the pick right there in the corner before we move on to the next step.
Step 20
Gently slide the pick towards the home button, but don't push it the other way—you don't want to mess up the antenna!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick across this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it from the bottom-left corner. You'll get it, no worries!
- Slip a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made at the bottom of the iPad.
- Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but stop right before the home button.
- Leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button for the next move.
Step 21
Slide that pick in gently, no more than 1 mm, to keep the right antenna safe and sound.
- Grab an opening pick and gently slide it into the gap you just made. No need to rush, just let it fit in there smoothly.
- Now, carefully work the pick under the home button, guiding it towards the bottom-right corner. Make sure only the tip of the pick sneaks between the digitizer and the frame. Take your time!
Step 22
Slide the pick only towards the home button—keep it away from the other side to avoid messing with the antenna!
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, just pop it out and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.
- Grab the pick and slide it towards the home button to fully detach the bottom adhesive. Keep it steady as you go!
- Leave the pick resting just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the right edge of the device for two minutes to get things loosening up nicely.
Tools Used
Step 24
Hey, go easy on this one. Take it slow, get that adhesive nice and gooey, and make sure you've lifted all the sticky bits with your pick. It's cool to stop and reheat if needed!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, no worries! Just heat up the edges a bit and gently work your way around them with an opening pick. Keep at it, you'll get there!
- Give the two opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad. This will gently lift the digitizer and help you separate the remaining adhesive—easy does it!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad. You've got this!
Step 26
- Gently support the digitizer and carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to free up any remaining adhesive. Take your time, it's like peeling away the last bit of sticker—slow and steady wins the race!
Step 27
- Once you've freed all that adhesive, open up the digitizer like a book and rest it flat alongside the iPad.
- During reassembly, give the frame a good clean of any leftover adhesive—and the digitizer too if you're reusing it—with isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- As you put it all back together, keep an eye on those display cables. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to keep everything safe and sound.
Step 28
- Peel off any tape that's hiding those LCD screws.
Step 29
- Start by unscrewing the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws that are keeping the LCD in place. It's like unlocking a secret, but for your device!
Step 30
Hold up there—don't try to fully detach the LCD just yet. It's still plugged in with cables near the home button. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
Take it nice and easy, and keep an eye on those LCD cables while flipping the display over.
Carefully place the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free surface to keep it safe.
- Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the LCD just enough to grab it with your fingers. If there's any stubborn glue around the screw holes, carefully cut it away with a knife.
- Flip the iPad LCD like you're turning a page in a book, starting from the camera side and rotating it over to the home button end of the rear case.
- Lay the LCD face down so you can access those display cables with ease.
Tools Used
Step 31
Check out these photos showing the battery connector beneath the logic board. Keep them handy as you gently disconnect the battery.
You'll notice the battery connector has little cantilever springs that press down onto the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued into place, you’ll need something thin and flexible to carefully slide between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
To keep things cool and avoid any pesky short circuits, grab a battery isolation pick to gently disconnect the battery.
Be gentle with the battery blocker—don't force it under the connector. If it's a tight fit, try using a playing card to ease the battery out instead.
The battery blocker (or playing card) should glide smoothly under the logic board, with no resistance. Once it's in place, it should be at a comfy 15-degree angle.
- Hey there, let's start by removing that single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
- Next, slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker in place as you keep working.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the display cable bracket in place. No need to stress—just take it easy and get those screws out!
Step 34
The display cable connector is snugly attached to the underside of the bracket. So, be gentle with your spudger and don’t push it too deep—it could accidentally damage the connector. Take it easy, you’ve got this!
- Grab your spudger and gently lift the display cable bracket away from the logic board. Use the flat end to ease it up – no need to rush, just take it slow and steady.
Tools Used
Step 35
- Carefully lift off the LCD screen. Make sure you don't rush—taking it slow will help prevent any accidental damage!
Step 36
- Peel away any tape that's covering the connector for the home button ribbon cable. It's a simple step, but it's key to unlocking the next phase of your repair journey!
Step 37
- Grab your spudger and gently use the flat end to lift up the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s a light flick, no need to force it!
- Once that tab is flipped, carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the connector. Take your time, no rush here!
Tools Used
Step 38
Hey, let's keep your iPad safe and sound—pry only on the connectors themselves, not the socket on the logic board, to avoid any hiccups.
- Grab the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to gently lift those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their spots on the sockets.
- When putting it all back together, double-check that these connectors are snugly in place, or you might run into some annoying display glitches.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
Step 40
The insulation here is a bit of a ninja – it's not visible to the naked eye. It's also a world apart from the foam dust barriers you might find on many iPads. Pretty cool, right?
- Kick things off by carefully removing the front panel assembly.
- If your shiny new display starts giving you those pesky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch glitches, don't sweat it— just slap on a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, right on the highlighted spots on the back of the panel.
- Without that nifty insulation, those digitizer bits can short out against other components, leading to wonky touch inputs. If you're stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 41
- Gently slide a spudger under the antenna cable near the edge of the iPad and lift it up to safely disconnect the antenna cable connector. Take your time—no rush here!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Hey, you'll see two hefty pieces of tape coiled around the right antenna cable, holding it snug against the rear case.
- Carefully peel that tape up from the rear case.
- While you're peeling the antenna tape away, leave it stuck to the antenna cable to make reassembly a breeze.
Step 43
Hey, the antenna cable's secured to the speaker with a small metal bracket. It's crimped securely onto the antenna and attached to the speaker enclosure. Easy peasy!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
- Glide the pick toward the home button to slice through the adhesive.
- Push the bracket away from the speaker until it's clear of the tape underneath.
Step 44
- Let's take out these Phillips #000 screws that are keeping the right antenna snug:
- One 2.3 mm screw
- Two 1.4 mm screws
Step 45
- Slip the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
- Glide the spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive securing the antenna.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Gently detach the right antenna from your iPad. Take your time and be careful; it's just a little twist and pull away!
Step 47
- Hey there, grab your trusty spudger and slip it under that left antenna cable—give it a little upward nudge to disconnect the connector smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 48
- Hey, check it out—five strips of tape are cozying up the left antenna cable, snugly covering the right speaker cable connector.
- Gently peel that tape up from the rear case, nice and easy.
- Now, fold the antenna cable out of the way to keep things tidy.
Step 49
A little bend in the speaker cable can make peeling the tape a bit tricky. Just take it slow!
Be gentle with your tweezers—aim to peel the tape without grabbing the cable underneath. A light touch goes a long way!
- Alright, grab the tape right under the speaker and peel it down, away from the case's edge.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently peel the tape toward the home button to uncover the speaker cable connector.
Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointed end to gently lift up the little retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
- Now, carefully slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Peel away the tape that’s keeping the speaker attached to the rear case. Nice and easy—just a quick tug and you’re good to go!
Step 53
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape from the rear case, taking care not to rush. Patience is key here!
Step 54
- Take out the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that's holding the speaker in place on the back case. Time to make some room for the magic to happen!
Step 55
- Gently slide your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove near the corner of the speaker housing, right by the rear case.
- Now, give the speaker a little pull, moving it away from the case's corner.
Tools Used
Step 56
- Grab a spudger and gently work it under the edge of the rear case to help lift the speaker out.
- Carefully pull the right speaker out from its spot in the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 57
- Unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the upper component cable bracket. Keep these little guys safe!
Step 58
If you're working with the Wi-Fi/Cellular version of your iPad, it'll look a little different. You’ll need to remove two extra screws to access those sneaky components hidden under this bracket. No worries though – you’ve got this!
- Gently lift off the upper component cable bracket. It’s a simple step, just take your time and make sure it comes off smoothly!
Step 59
- There are still two strips of tape holding the left antenna cable down to the rear case.
- Carefully lift the tape away from the rear case.
Step 60
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker housing and the antenna cable bracket like you're sneaking into a VIP lounge.
- Glide the pick towards the home button, slicing through that adhesive like a hot knife through butter.
- Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it's free from the tape hiding underneath.
Step 61
- Carefully unscrew the following Phillips #000 screws:
- Two screws measuring 1.4 mm
- One screw measuring 2.3 mm
Step 62
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. Take your time here!
- Now, carefully slide the spudger towards the home button to break the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. Nice and steady—you're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 63
- Let's carefully detach that left antenna from your iPad.
Step 64
- Peel away the tape that's covering the left speaker cable connector – you've got this!
Step 65
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently flip up that retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector—nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 66
- Ease the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector – nice and easy!
Step 67
- Carefully peel off the tape that's keeping the speaker stuck to the rear case.
Step 68
- Alright, let's unscrew that 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the speaker snug to the rear case.
Step 69
- Carefully lift that left speaker ribbon cable up gently, so it stays clear of the battery as you slide the speaker enclosure out.
Step 70
- Slip a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove on the speaker housing, right near the corner of the rear case.
- Give the speaker a gentle pull downward, away from the case's corner.
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Step 71
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the speaker free from its cozy spot under the rear case edge.
- Lift the left speaker out of the iPad like a pro.
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Step 72
Pry only on the connector, not the socket itself—keep it gentle and steady!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.
- Fold the front-facing camera cable out of the way to keep things tidy.
- There's a bit of conductive adhesive on those gold-colored cable contacts – make sure to apply some pressure to reattach them nicely when reassembling.
Tools Used
Step 73
Pry up only on the connector—steer clear of the socket itself!
- Grab your spudger's flat end and carefully disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board – you've got this!
- Fold that rear-facing camera cable out of the way to keep your workspace tidy and awesome.
Tools Used
Step 74
- Carefully use the flat end of your spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector from the logic board.
- Fold the headphone jack cable out of the way to keep it tidy.
Gently lift at the connector—avoid tugging on the socket itself!
On newer iPad models, there's a small loop of tape holding the connector in place on the logic board. You'll need to cut this tape to disconnect the headphone jack. It's a bit of a delicate move, but no worries – just take it slow and steady. If you're not sure or need an extra hand, feel free to schedule a repair!
Tools Used
Step 75
Hey, go easy and pry only on the connector—skip the socket to keep things smooth!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and carefully disconnect the microphone cable connector from the logic board.
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Step 76
- Peel off any tape covering the connector for the upper button assembly cable.
Step 77
- Alright, grab the pointed tip of your spudger and gently lift that retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector. Nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 78
- Gently slide the upper button assembly cable out of its ZIF connector. Keep it smooth and steady—no need to rush!
Step 79
Grab your iPad and stand it upright. Take a quick peek down at the Lightning port, and voilà – that's where you'll find these sneaky screws.
- Kick off the repair by removing the two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws that hold the Lightning port in place.
Step 80
Next up, you'll use an iOpener to warm up the rear case of your iPad. This will help soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place so you can do your thing.
As you heat up and position the iOpener in the recommended spots, give it a solid minute in each area to let the heat do its magic through the rear case.
- The adhesive comes in the form of six pieces of black foam tape—keep an eye on this step as you heat and pry, so you can track where each piece is placed. Stay focused and you'll have it done in no time!
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Step 81
Taking a bit more time won't cause any issues, but if the iOpener sits on the back too long, just warm it up again and slap it back on.
- Set a warm iOpener on the back near the rear camera of the iPad and let it hang out there for at least a minute to loosen up that sticky adhesive under the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 82
When you get to the next steps, start by gently testing the adhesive that’s holding the logic board in place. If it feels too firm, just reheat the iOpener and place it back on the rear case. Give it a little time to work its magic and then try again!
- Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board, right between the front camera and the battery—take it slow and steady.
- Now, slide that pick toward the front camera connector and stop at the bend in the logic board.
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Step 83
- Gently slide your opening pick under the logic board, from the front-facing camera all the way to the rear-facing one. You've got this!
Step 84
Give that iOpener a minute to chill and soften the adhesive under the back case.
- Take a warm iOpener and gently place it along the bottom edge of your iPad to loosen things up.
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Step 85
The Lightning connector cable is glued down to the case. To free it, gently slide an opening pick between the cable and the case. Take your time and be super careful not to nick or cut the Lightning connector cable itself.
- Slip an opening pick under the Lightning cable right where it connects to the logic board—nice and easy.
- Now, slide that pick down and around the bend in the cable, keeping it steady.
Step 86
Take your time and be gentle. If the opening pick isn’t sliding in smoothly, heat things up a bit more and give it another go. Pushing too hard might cause you to slip and accidentally cut the Lightning connector cable, and that’s a no-go!
- Keep sliding that opening pick under the cable, but stop right before you hit the bend near the Lightning connector. Nice and easy!
Step 87
- Alright, now gently slide that opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector to peel away the last bit of adhesive under the cable.
Step 88
- With a steady pull, extract the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.
Step 89
Give the iOpener a minute to chill and soften that adhesive under the rear case.
- Carefully position your heated iOpener on the left side of the rear case, right where the logic board is glued down.
Tools Used
Step 90
- Grab a plastic opening tool and slide it into the rectangular gap at the top of the logic board, then gently pry the board up from the rear case.
- Keep the opening tool tucked underneath the logic board and glide it along the length of the gap to loosen the upper end from the adhesive.
Step 91
Ease up the end of the logic board nice and slow. If it feels stuck like a stubborn puzzle piece, pause and reapply the iOpener to loosen things up.
- Carefully pry up the logic board from the lower edge of the rectangular gap, right near the EMI shield. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 92
Be careful not to slice through the battery with the opening pick—puncturing the battery can be risky. If you're hitting a roadblock, don't sweat it—just give it another round of heat and apply the iOpener again.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the logic board and battery to get things started.
- Carefully work the pick from the base toward the center of the logic board, making sure to cut through the adhesive along the way.
Tools Used
Step 93
- Gently slide that pick all the way along the logic board to loosen it up.
- Once the adhesive is cut, carefully lift the battery side of the logic board up and away from the rear case.
Step 94
- Gently lift the logic board starting from the side closest to the battery, just enough to slide an opening pick underneath the opposite edge.
- Carefully slice through any adhesive that’s keeping the logic board stuck to the back case.
Step 95
- Gently lift the logic board out of the iPad and set it aside. Make sure to be careful as you work through it.
Step 96
Take it easy with that iOpener! Don’t let it overheat during the repair – give it a little break for at least two minutes before you give it another round of heat. And keep those microwave sessions under 30 seconds, alright? We want to keep things cool while you fix it up!
Heat up the battery area just enough to loosen the sticky glue. If you want to play it extra safe, try gently applying a solvent, like a specialized adhesive remover, between the battery and the back case to melt that glue away.
Heads up: the iOpener can get a bit chilly between moves. If it cools down, just give it another 30-second heat-up before continuing to the next spot.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- Now, place the warm iOpener right in the middle of the iPad's back. Let it sit there for a cool 90 seconds to work its magic on the battery adhesive.
- Next, slide the iOpener to the right side (steer clear of the camera) and give it another 90 seconds to work its charm.
- Finally, move the iOpener to the right edge of the iPad for a solid 90 seconds. It's almost done!
Tools Used
Step 97
Hey, in the upcoming steps, we'll slide thin plastic cards between the battery and the iPad's rear case to peel away the adhesive. Keep those cards flat to avoid bending the battery—it could damage it and release some nasty chemicals.
If you're hitting some serious resistance, no worries! Just re-heat the iOpener and give it another shot. Let that adhesive soften up a bit more and you'll be back on track.
- Slide a plastic card under the lower battery cell, right at the bottom-right corner. Easy peasy!
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Step 98
- Got the card in about halfway? Cool—now slide it up toward the top of the iPad, but hold up right before that battery contact post.
Step 99
- Give the card a gentle lift from the rear case just enough to clear that battery contact post.
- Slide it smoothly from the center of the battery cells over to the upper right corner.
Step 100
- Slide another plastic card about halfway under the left side of the battery cell to keep it from sticking back when you reapply the iOpener.
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Step 101
- Set an iOpener on the right side of the battery, away from the cards, to help soften that stubborn adhesive.
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Step 102
- Ease that card around the lower right corner of the battery – you've got this!
Step 103
- Slide that plastic card smoothly to the lower left corner of the battery – you've got this!
Step 104
- Push that card in a bit more to break up as much of the adhesive gripping the battery as possible.
- Slide the plastic card under the lower left corner of the battery.
Step 105
Take it easy and gently glide that card over the front camera and headphone jack wires—let's keep everything intact and avoid any accidental snips!
- Ease that card around the upper right corner of the battery with a gentle slide.
Step 106
Take it easy and gently slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables—don’t want to accidentally snip those by mistake!
- Gently slide the plastic card towards the top-left corner of the battery, like you're giving it a little nudge to get it moving.
Step 107
- Give that card a firm push to loosen up as much of the battery's adhesive as you can.
- Slip the plastic card right under the upper left corner of the battery.
Step 108
- Alright, to get your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse. If anything feels tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
