iPad 6 Wi-Fi Front Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 80 Steps
Be extra cautious when using a battery blocker to isolate the battery. It’s a delicate step, so take your time and stay steady!
Time to swap out the front-facing camera assembly along with the ambient light sensor for your iPad 6 Wi-Fi! Just a heads-up: when you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker, tread lightly! The battery contacts are delicate little things, and if they get damaged, your logic board could be in big trouble. If you decide to skip the battery isolation, make sure to keep metal tools to a minimum—only use them when absolutely necessary, like for screw removal. We want to avoid any battery shorting and keep those sensitive circuit components safe and sound!
Step 1
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As you let that adhesive chill out and get all loosey-goosey, keep an eye out for these sensitive spots that need a gentle touch:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries—just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.
For full details on how to handle the Anti-Clamp like a pro, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip properly, try adding some tape to give it a better hold.
- Give the blue handle a gentle tug back to unleash the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set your iPad on a stable surface, ensuring it's nicely balanced between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups toward the midpoint of the left edge—one up top and one down below.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while you press down firmly on the top cup to create a solid suction.
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a little tug forward to secure those arms into place.
- Twist the handle a full 360 degrees (or until those suction cups start getting a bit stretchy).
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they're still in sync. If they start to wander, just loosen them up a tad and get those arms back in line.
Step 5
Take it easy and turn just half a turn at a time. Give it a minute to chill between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp and the clock work their magic for you.
For a full walkthrough on how to wield a hair dryer like a pro, check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening the gap enough, just heat the spot a bit more and twist the handle clockwise by half a turn.
- Give the adhesive a minute to relax and create a nice little gap for you to work with.
- If the screen's not warming up enough, try giving it a little heat with a hair dryer along the left edge of your iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp makes a gap wide enough, slide in an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Go ahead and skip the next step, no need for it.
Step 6
- First off, let’s get that screen toasty! Once it’s warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and slap it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can manage.
- Now, give that screen a gentle lift with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You’re doing great!
- Next, slide an opening pick into that gap you just created between the digitizer and the frame. Keep it smooth and steady!
If your screen's looking like it's been through a battle, you can try covering the cracks with clear packing tape to give the suction cup something to stick to. Not a fan of suction cups? No worries – you can go for some heavy-duty tape instead. If that still doesn't do the trick, a bit of superglue might just do the job to keep the suction cup in place.
Tools Used
Step 7
Don't stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just gently pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, though you might leave behind some sticky adhesive that's a little tricky to clean.
- Slip a second opening pick into the gap you've just made.
- Gently slide the pick down toward the bottom-left corner to break up that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick lodged in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sealing itself back up.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets a little stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of your iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a pro.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to start loosening the adhesive.
- Once you're at the top-left corner, leave the pick in place to keep the adhesive from sealing back up.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently work the pick around the top-left corner of your device to loosen and break free the adhesive. Take your time – no need to rush!
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera, as it could harm the lens. The next steps will guide you on how to avoid this mishap.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, but stop just shy of the front camera—don’t get too close, we don’t want any accidental selfies!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and frame.
- Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen up that adhesive.
- Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and gently slide it toward the top-right corner of your device to fully break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep the pick snug in the top-right corner to stop that sneaky adhesive from re-sticking!
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Twist that pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free from the adhesive's grip.
Step 17
The display cables are about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. When you're around three inches from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding. Easy does it!
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it right to the middle of the iPad’s right edge. Keep it steady—you've got this!
Step 18
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug to the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to rotate the pick all the way around the corner—doing so could end up hurting the antenna.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break that stubborn adhesive free. You've got this!
- Keep that pick right there in the bottom-left corner while you get ready for the next step. You're doing great!
Step 20
Slide the pick gently towards the home button, not away from it. Going the wrong way could mess with the antenna. Take it easy and keep it steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this section once more, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Let the pick rest just to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be careful not to insert the pick more than 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Now, carefully slide the pick under the home button and towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure the tip of the pick is nestled between the digitizer and the frame—don’t push too hard!
Step 22
Remember, slide that pick toward the home button, not away, unless you want to give the antenna a not-so-fun surprise!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick through this section once more, just pop it out and re-insert it from the bottom-right corner. Easy fix!
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the home button to fully loosen that bottom adhesive.
- Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it to the right edge of your device for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic—patience makes perfect.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy and be super cautious with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and gently work your way through with a pick to separate it all. If you feel like you need to pause and reheat, go for it!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, just give those edges another little heat-up and gently glide along with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks positioned at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to peel away the last bits of adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left side of the digitizer upwards to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. Keep it cool—you’re doing great!
Step 26
- While keeping a steady hand on the digitizer, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of sticky adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- Once you've carefully separated the adhesive, open the digitizer like you're flipping open a book, and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, take a moment to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if you're reusing it—with a little isopropyl alcohol. Then, apply fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things in place.
- Be extra careful with those display cables during reassembly. Make sure they're tucked neatly underneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and cause damage.
Give your microwave a quick once-over before you start—any leftover grime on the bottom might just hitch a ride onto your iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the center of your microwave to get it warmed up and ready to work its magic.
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Step 29
Keep an eye on your iOpener’s temperature — overheating it can cause it to burst, and nobody wants that surprise! Don’t heat it past 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, give it a pass and don’t touch it.
If the iOpener is still too toasty in the middle to handle, just keep using it and let it cool down a bit more before reheating. When heated right, it should stay warm for about 10 minutes.
Microwave power can vary, so you might need to adjust the heating time a bit. You'll know the iOpener is ready when it's just a tad too hot to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds.
- As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.
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Step 30
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot—handle with care. If your hands aren’t feeling toasty, grab an oven mitt or something similar to keep safe.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle to keep those fingers safe!
Tools Used
Step 31
Careful now! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs.
Don't have a microwave? No worries! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water and let the magic happen.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it roaring.
- Pop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s completely submerged.
- Use tongs to carefully lift the iOpener out of the water—hot stuff!
- Give it a good dry-off with a towel to avoid any drips.
- Now your iOpener is all warmed up and ready to roll! If it cools down, just repeat the boiling and soaking steps to heat it back up.
Tools Used
Step 32
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This keeps all those sneaky glass shards in check and gives you solid grip power when you start prying and lifting the display.
- If your screen glass is cracked, keep those shards in check and avoid any ouch moments by taping the glass down first.
- Cover the entire iPad display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it’s fully wrapped up like a pro.
- Follow the rest of the guide as usual, but heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you work. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass pieces out.
Step 33
- Grab it by the tag, and gently set that warm iOpener on the left side of your iPad, just next to the home button assembly.
- Give the iOpener a minute to work its magic and loosen up that sticky adhesive hiding beneath the glass.
Tools Used
Step 34
The iPad may look like a solid block from the outside, but beneath that front glass lies some pretty sensitive gear. To keep everything safe, only apply heat and pry in the exact spots mentioned in each step.
- As you dive into this repair adventure, keep your eyes peeled and steer clear of prying in these sensitive zones:
- Front-facing camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 35
These next three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to do it.
For the full scoop on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a bit more traction.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to free the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set your iPad on a stable surface so it sits nice and level between those suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one at the top and one at the bottom, like a perfect little duo.
- Keep a steady hand on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and give that top cup a firm press to create a solid seal.
Step 36
- Gently pull the blue handle forward to secure the arms in place.
- Give that handle a twist—360 degrees or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch. You've got this!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups; they should be in sync with each other. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms. Easy peasy!
Step 37
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do their magic!
For full details on how to get the most out of your hair dryer, check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't quite giving you the gap you need, no worries—just apply a little more heat and turn the handle clockwise about half a turn.
- Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap for you.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, feel free to use a hair dryer to gently heat the left edge of the iPad.
- Slide an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp has made a spacious enough opening.
- Feel free to skip the next two steps.
Step 38
If your iPad's screen is looking like a spider web, a quick trick is to slap on some clear packing tape to give that suction cup a fighting chance. Or, if you're feeling a bit more adventurous, take a sturdy piece of duct tape, fold it into a handy handle, and get to work!
- Stick that suction cup about halfway up the warm side—right where it can do some good.
- Hold the iPad steady with one hand, then gently tug up on the suction cup to nudge the front glass away from the back casing just a bit.
- Make sure the suction cup is pressed flat against the screen to get a solid grip before pulling.
Step 39
Keep your opening pick just shy of the black bezel on the side of the display. Pushing it too far in could lead to some accidental LCD damage, and we definitely want to avoid that!
- Slide an opening pick into the gap created by the suction cup.
- Give that suction cup's handle a little tug to break the vacuum seal and lift it away from the display assembly.
Step 40
Take it easy with the heat! Avoid overheating the iOpener during the repair. Give it a solid 10-minute break before reheating it again.
- Heat things up again and swap out that iOpener for a fresh one!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Grab a second opening pick and slide it right next to the first one, then carefully glide it down the edge of the iPad to loosen that stubborn adhesive as you go.
Step 42
- Slide the opening pick slowly down the side of the display to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
- If the pick gets caught in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the edge of the iPad to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 43
- Grab the first pick you inserted and gently slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. Smooth and steady, like you're gliding into the weekend.
- If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking through the front glass, don’t stress! Just pull it out a tiny bit. Everything should be just fine, but try to avoid it if you can, as it might leave some adhesive on the LCD that’s a bit tricky to clean.
Step 44
Heads up! Don’t let the iOpener get too hot while you’re working. Give it a cool-down break of at least ten minutes before heating it up again.
If you have a flexible iOpener, feel free to give it a little bend so it can tackle both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time. Efficiency is key!
- Warm up the iOpener again and set it right on the top edge of the iPad, just above the front-facing camera.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to loosen up the adhesive. Nice and easy – you'll get there.
Step 46
Be extra careful not to slide the opening pick over the front facing camera—you don’t want to smear adhesive on the lens or risk messing up your camera. The upcoming steps will show you exactly how to keep that camera safe and sound.
Check out the third image to see exactly where the front-facing camera and its housing are located in the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but stop just shy of the camera. No need to rush, give it a little finesse.
Step 47
- Gently pull the pick out a little, then carefully slide just the very tip along the top edge near the front-facing camera.
Step 48
- Gently place the opening pick in your iPad, just a smidge past the front-facing camera. It’s like giving your device a little nudge!
- Now grab a second pick and slip it in to the left of the camera. Slide it over to the corner of the iPad to wrap up that adhesive cutting on this edge. You're doing great!
Step 49
- Gently push the previous pick a bit deeper into the iPad, then slide it away from the camera and towards the corner.
Step 50
- Pop those three picks into the corners of the iPad to keep that front panel from sticking back down on its own. We want it to stay nice and loose for now!
- Give your iOpener a little reheating love and then place it on the last side of the iPad, right where the volume and lock buttons hang out.
Tools Used
Step 51
Keep that pick right where it is to prevent the adhesive from sticking back together, and grab a fresh pick for the next step.
- Carefully slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive there. Take your time and stay steady—patience makes for a smooth fix!
Step 52
The display cables are hanging out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you're sliding that pick, stop when you're about 4.5 inches from the bottom. You've got this!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it halfway along the right edge of your iPad, easing through the adhesive like a pro.
Step 53
- Keep those opening picks snugly in place, and plop the reheated iOpener right on the home button side of your iPad. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 54
The third image gives you a peek at the two antennas and the cozy little home button nook nestled in the bottom case of the iPad.
- Gently slide the lower left pick into the corner to slice through the adhesive. Nice and easy, we got this.
- Keep that pick in place at the corner. Don't go prying any deeper, and definitely don’t pull the pick out just yet. Patience is key!
- Next up, we’ll guide you on where exactly to pry so you don't accidentally damage any sensitive parts. Stick to the heat and prying directions to keep things smooth.
Step 55
Slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad, and avoid going back toward the edge. Going in the wrong direction could mess with the antenna, and nobody wants that!
Keep the pick from the previous step in place to stop that adhesive from sealing back up. It's like holding a door open for a friend—just a little longer!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over the bottom section more than once, take it out, start fresh at the outer edge, and slide it inward. It's like starting over with a clean slate, but faster!
- Grab your trusty pick and gently glide it along the left-side antenna, making sure to stop just before you reach the home button.
- Keep that pick in place while you get ready to tackle the next step!
Step 56
- Grab a fresh pick and gently slide it in to the right of the last one. You're just adding another layer of support, no big deal.
- Lightly glide the pick over the home button and right-hand antenna, using only the very tip to carefully lift the adhesive. Take it slow, you're doing great!
Step 57
Just like with the left antenna, gently slide from the outer edge toward the center. Going the other way might mess up the antenna, and we definitely don't want that!
- Now that the adhesive is nice and loose, grab your pick and slide it gently near the right corner. Move it carefully to the left, but don’t go all the way to the Home button. Stop just before it!
Step 58
- Warm up the iOpener again and stick it back on the volume control side of your iPad.
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Step 59
Take your time with this step. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, soft to the touch, and that you've worked through all of it with your opening pick. If you need a moment, don't hesitate to reheat it and keep going at your own pace.
If you're feeling a bit of a struggle, keep those picks right where they are, give it another round of heat, and bring the iOpener back to tackle those stubborn spots.
- On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you'll find a pick nestled into each corner. Gently twist the picks to lift the glass just a bit, easing apart the last of the adhesive along the edge of the display cable. Take your time, no rush—patience is key here!
Tools Used
Step 60
- Gently lift it up to peel away the adhesive from the edge of the display cable. Take your time—you're doing great!
Step 61
Take it easy and watch out for those display cables! You don't want to accidentally cut or damage them. A little care goes a long way!
- Hold up that front glass like a champ and gently slide your opening pick to free the last stubborn bit of adhesive.
Step 62
- After you've carefully loosened all the adhesive, gently swing the glass panel open like a book and let it rest on your workspace.
- When putting things back together, clean off any leftover adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you're reusing it) using isopropyl alcohol. Then, apply fresh adhesive by following our display adhesive application guide and using the pre-cut adhesive strips.
- Watch out for those flex cables! It's easy to accidentally pinch one between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly. Make sure the flex cables fold gently and tuck neatly under the frame. If a flex cable gets pressed completely flat, it might be damaged beyond repair.
Step 63
- Carefully peel away any tape hiding the LCD screws so you can get to them.
Step 64
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove those four 4.3 mm screws that are holding your LCD in place. Take your time and get them out—then you’ll be one step closer to that sweet, working screen!
Step 65
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking that LCD off just yet. It's still hanging on for dear life with a few cables at the home button end. Gently lift from the front-facing camera side only.
Take it easy and keep a close watch on those LCD cables as you flip the display over. Patience is key!
Place the LCD gently on a soft, clean, lint-free surface. It's like giving it a comfy bed to rest on while you work your magic.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the flat end to pop the LCD out of its snug little home—just enough to get a good grip with your fingers. Watch out for any sneaky glue hiding around the screw holes; a little knife action might be needed to clear that up.
- Now, give that iPad LCD a little flip like you're turning the pages of your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over the home button end of the rear case.
- Place the LCD face down, allowing easy access to those display cables. We're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 66
Check out these photos for a sneak peek at the battery connector hiding under the logic board. Use them as your trusty guide while you carefully disconnect that battery like a pro!
You'll notice those clever cantilever springs on the logic board that keep the battery contact pads snug. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down tighter than a secret, grab something thin and flexible to slide between the contact points and disconnect the battery with finesse.
Step 67
To keep things safe and avoid any unexpected surprises, grab a battery isolation pick to help disconnect the battery without a hitch.
Remember, when using the battery blocker, gentle is the name of the game! No need to shove it under the connector with all your might. If it’s giving you a hard time, a playing card can work wonders to help you disconnect the battery.
The battery blocker or your trusty playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board without any bumps in the road. Once it's in, it should chill at a cool 15-degree angle.
- Unscrew the lone 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector to the logic board.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the battery connector on the logic board, angling it at about 35 degrees.
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working.
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Step 68
- Take out the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the display cable bracket. A little twist and they’ll be ready to go!
Step 69
Be careful not to shove the spudger too far under the bracket, as the display cable connector is stuck to the bottom. A little caution goes a long way, or you might accidentally give that connector a bad day!
- Carefully use the flat end of a spudger to lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board, taking it slow and steady.
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Step 70
- Time to say goodbye to that LCD! Carefully detach it from its cozy spot. You've got this!
Step 71
- Peel away any tape that's hiding the home button ribbon cable connector. Let's get that button ready to shine!
Step 72
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip the little tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward. You've got this!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 73
To keep your iPad in tip-top shape, remember to gently pry only on the connectors themselves—steer clear of the socket on the logic board. You've got this!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets—easy does it!
- When putting things back together, double-check that these connectors are fully seated in their sockets to avoid any pesky display problems down the line.
Tools Used
Step 74
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the sticky stuff keeping it attached to the back case. You've got this!
Step 75
You won’t spot this insulation with just a glance—it’s not like the foam dust barrier strips you see on lots of iPads.
- Time to pop off that front panel assembly! Let's get started.
- If your new display is acting a bit quirky with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issues, don't fret! You can easily tackle this by sticking on a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the areas we've highlighted on the back of the panel. Just a heads up, our panels typically come fully equipped with the right insulation, so you might not even need to add extra tape!
- Without the proper insulation, those digitizer areas can get a little too cozy with other components, leading to some touch input hiccups. Let's keep everything in tip-top shape!
Step 76
- Unscrew those three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the upper component cable bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 77
If your iPad sports the Wi-Fi/Cellular model, it might have a slightly different look and will need you to take out two extra screws to unveil the components hiding behind this bracket. No worries, you've got this!
- Take off that upper component cable bracket like a champ! You've got this!
Step 78
Be sure to lift the connector gently— steer clear of the socket itself.
- Gently pry up the front-facing camera connector from the logic board using the flat end of your spudger, like a pro unplugging a stubborn charger.
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Step 79
Depending on how you took off the digitizer, this part might still be stuck to the inside of the front panel, so keep an eye out!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up the front-facing camera housing, then lift it out of the case like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 80
Underneath, there’s a bit of conductive tape hanging out between the front camera ribbon cable and the headphone jack cable. When swapping out your front camera, give the gold contacts a little press to get those cables sticking back together like old friends.
- To put your device back together, simply retrace your steps in reverse. You've got this! And remember, if you hit a snag, feel free to schedule a repair.
