iPad 6 Wi-Fi Front Panel Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 46 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that the Touch ID sensor in your Home button is like a best friend to the logic board. To keep that awesome Touch ID magic going, make sure to move your original Home button over to the new front panel assembly. You've got this!
And a little tip: when you're isolating the battery with that battery blocker, take it easy and be super careful. Safety first, right?
Follow this guide to swap out the front glass and digitizer assembly on an iPad 6. Heads up—the Home button’s Touch ID sensor is locked to the logic board, so to keep Touch ID working, you’ve got to move the original Home button over to the new front panel. When you disconnect the battery using a battery blocker, take extra care—the battery contacts are super fragile and can be permanently damaged if handled roughly. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to avoid metal tools except when absolutely necessary (like removing screws) to prevent short circuits and protect the delicate components inside.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these tricky spots where prying could cause trouble:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
In the next three steps, we're introducing the Anti-Clamp—a nifty little gadget we've created to simplify your opening adventure! If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for an alternative approach.
Want the full scoop on how to work your magic with the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface is being a bit too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, a quick fix is to apply some tape to make it stickier!
- Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set your iPad on something sturdy so it stays nice and level between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one up top and one down low.
- Keep a firm grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp while pressing down hard on the top cup to get a good suction seal.
Step 4
- Gently pull the blue handle forward to secure those arms like a pro!
- Give that handle a smooth clockwise twist, making a full 360-degree turn, or until those suction cups start stretching out just right.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they're in perfect harmony. If they start to drift apart, simply loosen them a bit and realign the arms for a snug fit.
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and patience do their magic.
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough room, just heat things up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small gap for you to work with.
- If the screen isn’t getting warm enough, try warming up the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Skip this next step.
Step 6
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it right on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to help separate them.
If your screen's looking rough with a big crack, try sticking on some clear packing tape—this might just help the suction cup stay put. If you’re feeling extra resourceful, you can swap in some heavy-duty tape instead of the suction cup. If that’s still not working, you can always get a bit creative and superglue the suction cup to the cracked screen to keep things together.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if the opening pick is peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle tug and pull it out. The LCD screen should be safe and sound, but do keep in mind that you might end up with some sticky adhesive that needs a little extra love to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to break up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick tucked in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick finds itself stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going strong!
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free that sticky adhesive. You've got this!
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental scratches. We'll guide you through the steps to keep that camera safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so only its tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick resting just to the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and nudge it towards the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.
- Keep the pick lodged in the top-right spot so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and press it gently on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. This will soften things up just right for the next step.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently rotate the pick around the top-right corner of your device to loosen that sticky adhesive. It’s like giving your device a little stretch, but don’t go too hard, you’ve got this!
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide carefully and stop once you’re about three inches from the bottom edge.
- Place a new opening pick and gently slide it along to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to rotate the pick too much around the corner—you don't want to risk damaging the antenna.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner, coaxing the adhesive to separate. You're doing great!
- Once you've got that pick snugly in the bottom-left corner, hang tight before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—never away from it—to keep that antenna safe and sound.
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You're doing great!
- Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before you reach the home button.
- Let the pick rest to the left side of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be super careful and only slide that pick in about 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Gently slide an opening pick into that gap you've made.
- Carefully work the pick under the home button, guiding it towards the bottom-right corner. Make sure only the tip of the pick is between the digitizer and the frame, keeping it nice and snug.
Step 22
Be sure to slide the pick gently towards the home button and not away from it. Going the wrong way could cause some antenna trouble. Keep it steady and you'll do great!
If you find yourself needing to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop that pick back in and slide it toward the home button to fully free up the adhesive at the bottom. You've got this!
- Now, let that pick chill to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step. Easy peasy!
Step 23
- Warm up the iOpener and let it chill on the right edge of your device for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, and don't forget to use a pick to separate all that sticky stuff. If you need to pause and reheat, go for it!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, no worries—just reheat the edges and gently work your way around them with an opening pick. Take it slow, it’ll give way soon enough!
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad. This will help lift the digitizer just a bit, making it easier to separate the last bit of stubborn adhesive. Take your time, and don't rush it—you’ve got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to help loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
Step 26
- Keep the digitizer steady while you carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to gently loosen the last bit of stubborn adhesive.
Step 27
- After you've successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, gently swing the digitizer open like a delightful book and lay it down parallel to your iPad.
- As you gear up for reassembly, take a moment to tidy up by removing any leftover adhesive from the frame—and if you're reusing the digitizer, give it a little love with some isopropyl alcohol. Don’t forget to replace that adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut cards!
- When you're putting everything back together, keep an eye on those display cables! Be sure to fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.
Step 28
- Carefully peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get to the good stuff.
Step 29
- Unscrew those four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. Let's get that screen free and ready for action!
Step 30
Hey there, superstar! Just a quick reminder: don't try to yank that LCD all the way out. It's still buddies with several cables down by the home button. Gently lift it from the front-facing camera side, and you'll be golden!
Take it easy and keep an eye on those LCD cables as you flip the display over. You've got this!
Gently place the LCD face down on a soft, clean, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently nudge the LCD out of its snug little home. Just a bit will do—enough to get a good grip on it with your fingers. Keep an eye out for any sticky glue around those screw holes; a careful cut with a knife will do the trick.
- Now, flip that iPad LCD like you're turning the pages of a favorite book! Lift it near the camera and swing it over to the home button end of the rear case.
- Place the LCD face down, giving you easy access to those display cables. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 31
These photos give you a peek at the battery connector hiding beneath the logic board. Use them as a guide while you carefully disconnect the battery.
You'll spot cantilever springs on the logic board that gently press against the battery contact pads. Both the logic board and battery are glued down, so to safely disconnect the battery, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points. Take your time and be gentle!
Step 32
Want to avoid a short circuit? Grab a battery isolation pick to safely disconnect the battery.
No need to force the battery blocker under the connector! If it’s being stubborn, try using a playing card to ease the battery out instead.
The battery blocker (or playing card) should slide smoothly under the logic board without any hiccups. Once it’s in, aim for a comfy 15-degree angle, and you’re golden!
- Unscrew the lone 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector onto the logic board.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the battery connector on the logic board at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you continue working to keep things safe and sound.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Carefully unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep them safe!
Step 34
Be careful! The display cable connector is stuck to the bottom of the bracket, so don’t go jamming the spudger too deep under there, or you might accidentally give that connector a bad day.
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift that display cable bracket right off the logic board. Take it slow and steady – no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Carefully detach the LCD from its position.
Step 36
- Peel off any tape that’s holding down the home button ribbon cable connector. You've got this!
Step 37
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the little tab on the home button ribbon cable's ZIF connector.
- Slowly and steadily pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from the connector.
Tools Used
Step 38
Be gentle and only pry on the connectors themselves—avoid messing with the socket on the logic board to keep your iPad safe and sound.
- Use the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to gently lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. Take your time; no rush!
- When putting things back together, double-check that these connectors are properly seated in their sockets. A snug fit will prevent any display glitches down the road!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the sticky adhesive that's keeping it snug against the rear case.
Step 40
You won’t spot this insulation just by looking—it’s sneaky and way different from the foam dust barrier strips you might find on plenty of iPads.
- Start by removing the front panel assembly.
- If you're dealing with a pesky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issue on your shiny new display, a quick fix is to add a thin layer of insulating tape (like Kapton tape) to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. Don't worry, the panels from Salvation Repair usually come prepped with the right insulation, so you probably won’t need to add any extra tape.
- When the insulation is missing, those sensitive areas on the digitizer might make unwanted contact with other components, leading to frustrating touch problems. Just a little insulation, and you're back in business!
Step 41
- Carefully start lifting the home button cable from the back of the front panel—take it slow, no rush!
- Keep peeling it back until you hit the metal shield protecting the cable.
Step 42
- Slide an opening pick carefully between the metal shield and the front panel, then gently wiggle it to pop the digitizer free.
Step 43
- Carefully lift the metal contact off the home button bracket. Take it slow, no rush—patience pays off!
Step 44
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the home button bracket away from the back of the front panel.
- After you’ve loosened one side of the home button bracket, confidently pull the bracket off the front panel.
- When it’s time to put the home button bracket back, add a small dab of adhesive or some double-sided tape to keep it snug and secure.
Step 45
Take your time and apply pressure gently. The adhesive is bonded to a fragile gasket that can easily rip. You've got this!
- Gently press the home button from the outside of the digitizer to loosen the adhesive keeping it in place. A little push goes a long way!
Step 46
- Take off the home button assembly and set it aside. You've got this!
