iPad 6 Wi-Fi Left Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 48 Steps
Take extra care when using a battery blocker to isolate the battery – it's like handling delicate treasure!
Ready to tackle replacing the left antenna on your iPad 6 Wi-Fi? Let's do this! Just take it easy when disconnecting the battery with a battery blocker—those contacts are super delicate and could get wrecked, leading to permanent logic board damage. If you're going without the battery blocker, skip the metal tools unless it's absolutely essential, like for screws, to avoid any shorts that might harm the sensitive bits. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Warm up your iOpener and gently place it along the left edge of the device for about two minutes to get things loosening up nicely.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While waiting for the adhesive to loosen, keep an eye out for these tricky areas that might be a little sensitive when prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
These next few steps show off the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries, just skip ahead three steps for a different method.
Need help mastering the Anti-Clamp? Check out this full guide for all the details.
If the surface of your iPad is being a little too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, just add a little tape to help it hold on better.
- Give that blue handle a gentle pull backward to free the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Slip something under your iPad to keep it nice and level between those suction cups.
- Line up the suction cups in the middle of the left edge—one up top, one down below.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, and give that top cup a firm press to get the suction going.
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a friendly tug forward to lock those arms in place.
- Spin the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you feel the cups starting to stretch things out.
- Keep those suction cups playing nice and aligned. If they start getting out of sync, just loosen them a tad and realign the arms—easy peasy.
Step 5
Take it slow—don’t overdo it with more than a half turn at once. Give it a minute between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp do its magic and let time work its wonders.
For the full rundown on using a hair dryer, check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making enough of a gap, add a little more heat and twist the handle clockwise by half a turn.
- Take a breather for a minute. Give the adhesive some time to loosen up and create a gap for you.
- If your screen isn't warming up as quickly as you'd like, feel free to use a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to get things moving.
- Slip an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp creates enough of a gap. It’ll give you the space you need to keep going.
- You can skip the next step, no need to worry about it right now!
Step 6
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it as close to the left edge of the screen as you can. Get cozy with that corner!
- Gently pull up on the suction handle, just enough to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. No rush—take it slow.
- Now, slide an opening pick into that sweet little gap you made. Don't force it, just let it slide in and get to work.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you can spot the opening pick through the digitizer — just gently pull it out. The LCD screen should be fine, but keep in mind, some sticky adhesive might stick around, and it can be a little tricky to clean up.
- Slip another opening pick into that gap you just made.
- Slide it smoothly toward the bottom-left corner to break up the adhesive.
- Park that pick in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the gooey adhesive, give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that bond apart.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to break free the adhesive.
- Leave the pick in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 10
- Heat up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute session on the top edge of your device. Let it warm up, and you’ll be good to go!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently spin the pick around the top-left corner of the device to loosen up that adhesive—nice and easy!
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera—you don't want to accidentally damage the lens. The following steps will help you avoid that mishap.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, but stop right before you hit the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick smoothly above the front camera to loosen that adhesive.
- Leave the pick right there near the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Pop the pick back in and glide it toward the top-right corner to fully separate that top adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling in the top-right corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and gently place it on the right edge of the device for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Twist the pick around the top-right corner of the device to loosen the adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables are located about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Once you’re about three inches from the bottom, take a break from sliding and stop there.
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it along the right edge of the iPad, aiming to reach the middle. Take your time and keep it steady, you'll get there!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of your device for two minutes. This helps soften things up, making the next steps easier and smoother.
Tools Used
Step 19
Hey, keep that pick from fully circling the corner—don't want to accidentally mess up the antenna!
- Gently slide the pick into the bottom-left corner, making sure it separates that stubborn adhesive like a pro.
- Leave the pick in place at the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step. You're doing great!
Step 20
Slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it—let's keep that antenna happy and intact!
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
- Pop a fresh opening pick into that gap you just made at the bottom of your iPad.
- Gently slide the pick over the antenna, but stop right before the home button.
- Let the pick hang out to the left of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Ease the pick in gently, up to just 1 mm, to keep the right antenna from getting dinged.
- Gently slide an opening pick into the small gap you just made. Take it slow and steady—you're doing great!
- Now, carefully glide the pick under the home button, heading towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip of the pick should be between the digitizer and the frame—precision is key!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently towards the home button, not away from it, to avoid accidentally damaging the antenna.
If you need to run the pick over this section again, just pop it out and slide it back in starting from the bottom-right corner.
- Pop the pick back in and glide it towards the home button to fully release that bottom adhesive.
- Hang onto the pick right of the home button before you keep going.
Step 23
- Get your iOpener warmed up and give the right edge of the device a nice, toasty hug for two minutes to soften things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it chill on this step. Go at your own pace, make sure that adhesive is warm and pliable, and double-check you've pried up all the glue with your pick. Totally fine to pause and reheat if you need to.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, no worries! Just reheat those edges and gently work your way around them with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad. This will lift the digitizer just enough to loosen the last bit of adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer, giving it a little wiggle to separate the adhesive on the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
- Hold the digitizer steady and gently wiggle an opening pick between the two display cables to loosen the last bit of stubborn adhesive.
Step 27
- After you’ve loosened all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and let it chill parallel to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables during reassembly. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Peel back any tape that’s hiding those LCD screws before moving on.
Step 29
- Time to get the screws out! Use your Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. They’re not too tight, so no need to break a sweat!
Step 30
Don't go for a full LCD removal just yet! It's still hanging on by a few cables near the home button, so take it easy and start lifting from the front-facing camera side.
Be gentle with the LCD as you flip it over, and keep an eye on those cables. You don’t want any surprises!
Place the LCD gently on a soft, clean surface, free from lint. You want to keep it comfy while you work your magic on it.
- Grab your spudger and gently work the flat end under the LCD to lift it just enough to get a good grip with your fingers. If you run into any glue around the screw holes, a quick cut with a knife should do the trick.
- Now, carefully flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book—start at the camera side and gently fold it over toward the home button end of the case.
- Set the LCD down with its face facing you so you can easily access those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
These photos give you a clear view of what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Keep these handy as a guide while you carefully disconnect the battery.
Notice how the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press down on the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are securely glued in place, you'll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
To keep sparks at bay, grab a battery isolation pick and gently disconnect the battery first.
Take it easy when sliding the battery blocker under the connector—no need to muscle it in. If it’s being stubborn, a simple playing card can help nudge the battery free instead.
The goal is for the blocker or card to glide under the logic board smoothly, without any hiccups. Once in place, it should chill at about a 15-degree angle.
- Gently unscrew that one 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector to the logic board—easy does it!
- Now, angle your battery blocker at about 35 degrees and slide it right under the logic board's battery connector.
- Keep that battery blocker snug in place while you tackle the next steps.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the display cable bracket in place. A little twist here and there, and you're one step closer to unlocking your device's secrets!
Step 34
Heads up! The display cable connector is stuck to the bottom of the bracket, so don’t go shoving your spudger too far underneath—otherwise, you might end up giving that connector a rough time.
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently lift the display cable bracket away from the logic board. Take your time, no need to rush!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Start by carefully lifting the LCD screen away from the device. Take your time, and make sure you're gentle—it doesn't bite!
Step 36
- Peel off any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector. It's hiding under there, waiting for you to give it some attention.
Step 37
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently flip up the tab on the home button ribbon cable's ZIF connector.
- Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from the ZIF connector, nice and easy.
Tools Used
Step 38
When you're working on your iPad, make sure to gently pry only around the connectors. Avoid prying on the logic board socket to keep everything in tip-top shape!
- Grab the flat end of a spudger or your trusty fingernail, and gently lift those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets. A little finesse goes a long way here!
- When you’re putting everything back together, make sure those connectors sit snugly in their sockets. A loose connection could mess with your display, and we don’t want that!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the sticky adhesive on the back case—take it slow, no rush!
Step 40
Hey, this insulation isn't something you can spot with the naked eye—it's totally different from those foam dust strips on a lot of iPads.
- Start by removing the front panel assembly.
- If you notice any 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issues on your new display, don't panic! A quick fix is to add a very thin layer of insulating tape—like Kapton (polyimide) tape—on the marked spots on the back of the panel. No tape required if your panel already has the right insulation.
- Without this insulation, certain areas of the digitizer can accidentally ground out and cause touch issues. So, make sure everything's nicely insulated to keep things running smoothly.
Step 41
- Carefully slide a spudger under the right antenna cable near the edge of the iPad and gently lift it up to pop off the antenna cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 42
- You’ll notice two big pieces of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable. Don’t worry, it’s covering the tape on the left antenna cable too, but we're going to fix that.
- Gently peel back the tape from the rear case. Take your time, and be sure not to rush!
Step 43
- Gently slide a spudger under the left antenna cable, specifically the connector that's farthest from the iPad’s edge. Give it a little lift to safely disconnect the antenna cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 44
- The left antenna cable is cozying up to the rear case with six little tape hugs. Time to set it free!
- Grab some tweezers and carefully lift each piece of tape, releasing the antenna cable bit by bit. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 45
Hey, there's a bracket crimped onto the antenna cable, stuck to the speaker enclosure with adhesive. You'll need to slice through that glue to pull out the antenna.
- Gently slide your opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket. Go slow, no need to rush!
- Now, slide the pick to the right to carefully break through the adhesive. Patience here is key.
- Once you’ve made some space, push the bracket away from the speaker, freeing it from the tape. Almost there!
Step 46
- Time to unscrew some tiny things! Get ready to remove these Phillips #000 screws:
- Two screws, each 1.4 mm. Don’t lose them!
- One screw, measuring 2.3 mm. Be careful, it’s a little longer than the others!
Step 47
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly—no rush here, just a smooth move.
- Now, carefully slide the spudger towards the home button area to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. Take your time; it’s a simple step!
Tools Used
Step 48
- Alright, time to snap everything back into place! Just follow these steps in reverse order, and you'll be good to go. If you run into any snags along the way, remember you can always schedule a repair for a helping hand.
