iPad 6 Wi-Fi Microphone Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Handle the battery isolation with care and precision, just like a pro!
Get ready to tackle the microphone assembly replacement in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi! Just a friendly reminder: when isolating the battery, take it easy with that battery blocker—it's delicate work, and we wouldn’t want any damage to the logic board. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, keep metal tools to a minimum—only use them when absolutely necessary, like for those pesky screws. This way, you’ll avoid any accidental battery shorts and keep those sensitive circuit components safe. And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of the device for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is doing its thing and loosening up, keep these sensitive spots in mind before you start prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we made to simplify opening your device. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just jump ahead three steps for another approach.
For full details on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to give it a bit more traction.
- Slide the blue handle backward to release the grip of the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Prop up your iPad with something flat so it sits evenly between the suction cups.
- Set the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create suction.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree spin clockwise, or keep turning until the cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—they should stay lined up. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Take it easy! Only twist it half a turn at a time and pause for a minute between each twist. Let the Anti-Clamp do its magic while you relax.
For a full walkthrough on how to rock that hair dryer like a pro, check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, just warm it up a bit more and give the handle a half turn clockwise to loosen things up.
- Hang tight for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little space for you.
- If your screen isn’t warming up enough, feel free to grab a hairdryer and gently heat up the left edge of the iPad.
- Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and opened up a nice gap.
- Just skip the next step and keep going!
Step 6
If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, slapping on a layer of clear packing tape might just do the trick to help that suction cup stick. You could also go for some heavy-duty tape if you want to skip the cup altogether. And if you’re really in a bind, a little superglue on that suction cup could be your last resort to hold things together.
- Once your screen's feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge, as close to the edge as you can manage.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap you've just made between the digitizer and the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just give it a gentle tug out! Your LCD screen should be just fine, but be careful not to leave behind any sticky residue that could be a pain to clean up.
- Pop in a second opening pick right where you made that gap.
- Gently slide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of your device to break that adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner to stop that sticky stuff from sealing back up.
Step 8
- If your opening pick decides to stick to the adhesive like it's having a cozy moment, just give it a little 'roll' along the side of the iPad. This will help you keep separating that adhesive like a pro!
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick to the top-left corner of your device to break that pesky adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick in place at the top-left corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. You're doing great!
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Step 12
Steer clear of sliding that pick over the front camera! We wouldn’t want to risk a lens disaster. Follow these steps to keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, making sure to stop right before the front camera to avoid any surprises.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen the adhesive.
- Leave the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and glide it up towards the top-right corner of your device, ensuring that the top adhesive is fully released. You're doing great!
- Keep that pick in place at the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again. Nice job!
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. It's like giving your device a little spa treatment—nice and cozy!
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently swivel the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
The display cables are hanging out around the halfway mark from the bottom of your iPad. Just slide until you reach about three inches from the bottom, and then stop! You've got this!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it right into the center of the iPad's right edge. You're on your way to a smooth repair!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it along the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick completely around the corner, as it could cause some trouble for the antenna.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick to the corner to break that adhesive seal like a pro!
- Keep that pick in the bottom-left corner while you gear up for the next step. You've got this!
Step 20
Just a friendly reminder: slide that pick towards the home button only! Going the other way might give your antenna a bad day.
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slip it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth and easy.
- Gently slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick past the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Leave the pick resting to the left side of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be super careful when inserting the pick—just go for a gentle 1 mm max to keep that right antenna safe and sound!
- Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, keeping just the tip tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Slide the pick only toward the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to glide that pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it toward the home button to fully loosen that bottom adhesive.
- Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of your device, letting it work its magic for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy during this step, champ! Make sure that adhesive is nice and warm, and take your time to gently tease apart any stubborn bits with that trusty pick. And hey, if things start feeling a bit tricky, don’t hesitate to pause and give it a reheat! You've got this!
If it feels like it’s putting up a fight, warm up the edges a bit more and gently ease your opening pick along them.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up just a bit, breaking through the last stubborn adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad a bit more.
Step 26
- While gently holding the digitizer, ease an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully detach the last bit of adhesive.
Step 27
- Once you've peeled away all that pesky adhesive, gently swing the digitizer open like a book and lay it down parallel to the iPad.
- As you put everything back together, be sure to tidy up the leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're giving it a second chance—using a bit of isopropyl alcohol. You can swap in some fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards for a secure fit.
- Keep an eye on those display cables while you're reassembling your device. Make sure they’re neatly tucked away beneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Peel away any pesky tape that might be hiding the LCD screws.
Step 29
- Unscrew the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. Keep them safe—you’ll need them later!
Step 30
Don't try to yank the LCD all the way out—it's still connected by a few cables near the home button. Start lifting from the camera side to keep things cool.
Take it slow and keep an eye on those cables as you gently flip the screen. No sudden moves!
Place the LCD gently on a soft, clean, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift the LCD just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers. Keep an eye out for any glue around the screw holes – a knife will come in handy here.
- Now, flip the iPad LCD like you're turning a page in a book. Start from the side near the camera and roll it over toward the home button, gently lifting it out of its place in the rear case.
- Place the LCD face down so you can easily reach the display cables and continue with the repair.
Tools Used
Step 31
Check out these photos to see what the battery connector looks like nestled beneath the logic board. Use them as your trusty guide while you disconnect the battery safely!
Take note of those little cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are stuck down, you'll want to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
To keep things safe and avoid any shorts, try using a battery isolation pick to unplug the battery.
No need to Hulk smash the battery blocker under the connector—take it easy. If it’s being stubborn, a playing card can be a slick alternative to disconnect the battery.
Ideally, the battery blocker or playing card should slide smoothly under the logic board without any drama. Once in, it should chill out at about a 15-degree angle.
- Take out the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector onto the logic board.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you continue working to keep things safe and sound.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the display cable bracket and set them aside safely.
Step 34
Heads up! The display cable connector is stuck to the underside of the bracket, so don’t go poking the spudger too far under there—you might accidentally mess up the connector.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Carefully take out the LCD.
Step 36
- Peel away any tape that’s blocking the home button ribbon cable connector. It's like unwrapping a gift—let's get to the good stuff!
Step 37
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently lift the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 38
Be cool and gentle—pry only on the connectors themselves, not the socket on the logic board, so your iPad stays happy and healthy.
- Grab that trusty spudger or your fabulous fingernail and gently lift those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their cozy sockets. Easy peasy!
- When you're putting everything back together, make sure those connectors are snugly seated in their sockets. A little extra love here will save you from any pesky display hiccups later on!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the sticky adhesive holding it to the back of the case.
Step 40
The insulation here is stealthy—it's not something you'll spot with just your eyes. It's quite different from those foam dust barrier strips you might find in some iPads. So, don’t expect a flashy visual cue!
- First up, let's pop off that front panel assembly. Easy peasy!
- Now, if you're experiencing those pesky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches with your brand new display, don't fret! Just grab some super thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, and apply it to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. Good news: Salvation Repair panels come with the right insulation, so you probably won't need to add any tape.
- Remember, without the proper insulation, those parts of the digitizer can accidentally connect with other components, leading to some frustrating touch input problems. We're here to help you avoid that!
Step 41
- Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the upper component cable bracket. Easy as pie!
Step 42
If you've got the Wi-Fi/Cellular model, your iPad might look a bit different, and you'll need to take out two extra screws to get to those sneaky components hiding behind this bracket.
- Let's get started by gently taking off the upper component cable bracket. You've got this!
Step 43
Be sure to lift only on the connector— steer clear of the socket itself.
- Gently pop the front-facing camera connector off the logic board using the flat end of a spudger. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 44
Depending on how you took off the digitizer, this little guy might be sticking to the inside of the front panel. No worries, just give it a gentle nudge and it should pop right off!
- Grab your spudger and carefully nudge the front-facing camera housing up, then gently lift it out of the case.
Tools Used
Step 45
There’s a bit of conductive tape chilling between the front camera ribbon cable and the headphone jack cable. When you're swapping out that front camera, just give the gold contacts a gentle nudge to make sure these cables reattach properly.
- Gently slide a spudger under the front-facing camera to break it free from the adhesive holding it to the rear case.
- Carefully lift the front-facing camera out of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 46
Gently pry up the connector—avoid putting any pressure on the socket itself.
- Gently pry up the headphone jack connector from the logic board using the flat end of your spudger.
- Carefully tuck the headphone jack cable out of the way to keep things neat.
Tools Used
Step 47
Gently lift the connector— steer clear of the socket itself.
- Gently pry up the microphone cable connector from the logic board using the flat end of your trusty spudger.
Tools Used
Step 48
Heating things up will loosen the glue that's keeping the microphone assembly stuck to the case.
- Set the top part of your iPad down gently on a warmed-up iOpener. Let's get this show on the road!
Tools Used
Step 49
- Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger in between the case and the microphone cable. It's like giving your device a gentle nudge!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully scrape the lower part of that microphone cable away from the case. Just a little bit of finesse goes a long way!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift the fragile upper part of the microphone cable away from the adhesive that’s sticking it to the back case.
Tools Used
Step 51
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse! You've got this! And if you run into a tricky spot, remember, you can always schedule a repair for some extra help!
