iPad 6 Wi-Fi Right Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 46 Steps
Handle with care when you're isolating the battery using a battery blocker—it's a delicate operation!
Ready to swap out that right-hand antenna on your iPad 6 Wi-Fi? Here’s the deal: when you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker, be super careful. The battery contacts are fragile and can easily cause major issues on the logic board if damaged. If you decide to skip the battery isolation step (not recommended!), make sure to keep metal tools to a minimum—only use them for screws or when absolutely necessary. The last thing you want is to accidentally short the battery or mess up sensitive circuits.
Step 1
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye on these tricky spots to avoid any oopsies:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp, a handy gadget we created to make popping open your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it open.
Want all the details on how to handle the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a bit more traction.
- Pull the blue handle back to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Pop something under your iPad to keep it level between the suction cups.
- Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one at the top and one at the bottom.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press firmly on the top cup to apply suction.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a smooth clockwise spin—360 degrees or until you see the cups starting to stretch out.
- Keep the suction cups lined up nice and neat. If they start to wander off, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before moving on.
Step 5
Take it easy—only half a turn at a time, then pause for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and time handle the rest.
Want to master the art of hair dryer wizardry? Dive into this guide for all the deets!
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making enough room, heat it up a bit more and give the handle a gentle half-turn clockwise. Easy peasy!
- Hang tight for a minute—let the adhesive loosen up and create that perfect gap.
- If your screen isn't heating up enough, grab a hairdryer and warm along the left edge of your iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp opens up a good gap, slide your opening pick right under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
- When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and attach it to the left edge of the screen, getting as close to the edge as you can.
- Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame.
If your screen is seriously cracked and the suction cup just won't stick, try putting a layer of clear packing tape on it. This should give the suction cup something to grab onto. If you're out of tape, you can use some heavy-duty tape instead of the suction cup. In a worst-case scenario, a little superglue on the suction cup can help it stay in place, though we hope you won’t need to go that far!
Tools Used
Step 7
No worries if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just pull it out gently. The LCD screen should be just fine, but be careful not to leave behind any sticky residue that's a pain to clean up!
- Slip a second opening pick into the gap you've just made.
- Gently glide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of the device, easing the adhesive apart.
- Leave that pick chilling in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t go back to its old ways.
Step 8
- If the opening pick sticks to the adhesive, gently roll it along the side of the iPad to help separate the sticky stuff and keep moving forward.
Step 9
- Slide the opening pick carefully towards the top-left corner to break that stubborn adhesive free.
- Once it's in place, leave the pick there to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. Nice work!
Step 10
- Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and gently place it on the top edge of the device for two minutes. It's like giving your device a warm hug to help loosen things up!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twirl the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive – you're doing great!
Step 12
Be careful around the front camera! Sliding the pick too close could risk damaging the lens. We’ll guide you through the steps to make sure that doesn’t happen.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping right before you hit the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick over the front camera to start loosening the adhesive.
- Leave the pick resting near the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Pop the pick back in and slide it toward the top-right corner to fully separate that top adhesive.
- Keep the pick parked in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and gently apply it to the right edge of the device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Swing that pick around the top-right corner like a champ to break free the adhesive – you're doing great!
Step 17
The display cables are hanging out about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding when you're three inches from the bottom.
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Get your iOpener warmed up and gently press it onto the bottom edge of your device for a couple of minutes – it'll help loosen things up just right!
Tools Used
Step 19
Hey, don't spin that pick a full circle around the corner—you might ding the antenna!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep that pick parked in the bottom-left corner before jumping to the next step.
Step 20
Hey, slide that pick towards the home button only—heading the other way could mess up the antenna.
If you gotta slide that pick over this spot again, just pull it out and tuck it back in at the bottom-left corner.
- Pop a fresh opening pick into that gap you just made on the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Slide the pick smoothly over the antenna, but stop right before you hit the home button.
- Leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
Be gentle – slide the pick in no more than 1 mm to avoid any drama with the right antenna.
- Slip your opening pick into that gap you just created.
- Gently slide the pick underneath the home button towards the bottom-right corner, ensuring only the tip stays between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Slide that pick towards the home button, buddy—steer clear of going the other way, or you might tick off the antenna!
If you find yourself needing to glide the pick over this part again, just pull it out and slide it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Pop the pick back in and glide it towards the home button to fully separate the bottom adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Get your iOpener heated up and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to separate. Use your pick to carefully work through all the adhesive—don’t rush it, and if things get sticky, just pause and reheat before moving on.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, just heat up the edges again and gently work your way around with an opening pick. It'll help loosen things up and keep the process smooth.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, breaking the last bit of adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Hey, go ahead and gently lift that left edge of the digitizer upwards to keep peeling away the adhesive along the right side of your iPad—nice and steady!
Step 26
- Keep that digitizer supported and glide an opening pick between the two display cables to peel off the final sticky adhesive.
Step 27
- Once all the sticky stuff is separated, gently open the digitizer like a little book and lay it flat next to your iPad.
- When putting things back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if you're reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
- Watch those display cables when reassembling. Fold them neatly under the LCD so they don’t get squished or damaged.
Step 28
- Peel away any tape that's hiding those pesky LCD screws. You want a clear shot at them, so make sure they're all visible before moving on.
Step 29
- Unscrew the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. You got this!
Step 30
Don't go all-in on removing that LCD just yet! It's still connected by some cables near the home button. Focus on lifting it carefully from the front-facing camera side first.
Take it slow and watch those cables as you flip the display. A little patience goes a long way here.
Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean surface that's free of lint.
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently coax the LCD out of its spot—just enough to snag it with your fingers. Keep an eye out for any glue lurking around the screw holes; slice it away with a knife if it puts up a fight.
- Now, flip that LCD like you're turning a page in a book—lift it up near the camera and swing it over to the home button end of the rear case.
- Lay the LCD face down to give yourself easy access to those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
Check out these pics of the battery connector tucked under the logic board. Use 'em as your guide to safely unplug the battery.
Spot those cantilever springs on the logic board pressing against the battery's contact pads? With both the board and battery glued down, you'll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect it.
Step 32
Hey, to dodge any sneaky shorts, snag a battery isolation pick and gently disconnect that battery.
Easy does it—don't jam the battery blocker under the connector too hard. If it's giving you grief sliding under the logic board, swap in a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board like a breeze, no hiccups. Once in, let it chill at a cool 15-degree angle.
- Let's start by removing that single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw that's securing the battery connector to the logic board.
- Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker in place as you continue with the rest.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Gently unscrew those three tiny 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the display cable bracket – easy does it!
Step 34
Hey, the display cable connector's glued to the bracket's underside, so slide that spudger in easy—don't go too deep or you might bust the connector!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift the display cable bracket away from the logic board. No rush—just give it a little nudge and it'll pop right out!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Alright, let's carefully remove that LCD screen.
Step 36
- Gently peel off any tape that's covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
Step 37
- Take the flat end of a spudger and gently lift the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. It's like opening a little door to the tech world.
- Now, carefully slide the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. A smooth, straight pull is all it takes to keep things working like a charm.
Tools Used
Step 38
Be gentle! When prying your iPad, make sure to focus only on the connectors themselves – not on the logic board socket. We don't want any accidental damage!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets—think of it as a little digital dance move.
- When putting things back together, double-check that these connectors are fully clicked into place. If they’re not snug, your display might throw a mini tantrum.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive gripping it to the rear case, like peeling off a pesky sticker.
Step 40
Just a quick note: this insulation is way too tiny to see with your eyes and totally different from the foam dust barriers you spot on a bunch of iPads.
- Let's kick things off by removing the front panel assembly.
- If you run into any spooky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch problems with your fresh display, fix it up by sticking a super thin layer of insulating tape—like Kapton (polyimide) tape—on the marked spots at the back of the panel. Our panels from Salvation Repair already rock with built-in insulation, so extra tape shouldn't be needed.
- Without that proper insulation, parts of the digitizer might ground out on nearby components, leading to wonky touch input.
Step 41
- Slide your trusty spudger under the antenna cable near the iPad's edge and gently lift it up to pop the connector free.
Tools Used
Step 42
- You'll find two sizable strips of tape coiled around the right antenna cable, holding it firmly to the back case.
- Carefully peel the tape up from the back case.
- When you're peeling the antenna tape, keep it stuck to the cable to make putting everything back together a breeze.
Step 43
The antenna cable is held in place by a tiny metal bracket attached to the speaker. This bracket is securely crimped to the antenna and stuck to the speaker enclosure, making sure everything stays connected where it should.
- Gently slide your opening pick between the speaker housing and the antenna cable bracket. Take it slow and steady!
- Now, move the pick toward the home button, and just cut through that adhesive like a pro.
- Give the bracket a little nudge away from the speaker until it's free from the tape underneath. You're almost there!
Step 44
- Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver and let's remove the screws holding the right antenna in place:
- One 2.3 mm screw
- Two 1.4 mm screws
Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and speaker assembly. Take it slow—you've got this!
- Now, carefully slide that spudger towards the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. No pressure, just a smooth move!
Tools Used
Step 46
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps backwards. You’ve got this! And if things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair for a hand.
