iPad 6 Wi-Fi Right Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 46 Steps
Take extra care when isolating the battery with a battery blocker—safety first, and keep it chill!
Follow this guide to swap out the right-hand antenna in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi. When it comes to isolating the battery with a battery blocker, take it slow and steady—those battery contacts are delicate and can cause permanent logic board troubles if damaged. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, stick to non-metal tools whenever possible, only bringing in metal ones for screw removal to avoid any accidental short circuits or harm to the sensitive electronics.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and gently place it on the left edge of your device for about two minutes. This will help soften things up and make the next steps smoother. Hang tight, you got this!
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you're giving the adhesive some time to loosen up, make sure to pay attention to these delicate areas that don't love a lot of prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next few steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a nifty tool we've designed to make opening up your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries! Just skip ahead a few steps for another method.
Need the full scoop on how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out the complete guide here.
If your iPad's surface is too smooth for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, just use a bit of tape to give it some extra traction.
- Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set something under your iPad so it sits evenly between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one up top, and one down low.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down hard on the top cup to get a good seal.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock the arms in place.
- Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—they need to stay lined up. If they start to drift, loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and patience do their magic!
Want a full rundown on how to wield a hair dryer like a pro? Check out this guide.
If your Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, just warm it up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn to get that perfect gap.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive do its thing and create a little gap for you to work with.
- If the screen's not getting hot enough, grab a hair dryer and warm up the left edge of the iPad for a few seconds.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has created a good gap, slip an opening pick under the digitizer to get things moving.
- Feel free to skip the next step!
Step 6
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your suction handle and stick it near the left edge—right up close to the edge.
- Gently pull the screen using the suction handle to create a little space between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap you've made between the digitizer and the frame.
Got a cracked screen that's making things tricky? No worries! Stick a layer of clear packing tape on it—this can help the suction cup grip better. If you're feeling adventurous, strong tape can also do the trick in place of a suction cup. And if nothing else works, a little superglue can help bond that suction cup to your screen. Just remember, we're here to help if you need it—if you're stuck, don't hesitate to schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 7
Don't stress if you spot the opening pick poking through the digitizer. Just gently pull it out! The LCD screen should stay safe and sound, but do keep in mind you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that’s a bit of a pain to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick lodged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t snap back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently 'rolling' it along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that sticky stuff away.
Step 9
- Gently glide the first opening pick up to the top-left corner of your device to break that sticky adhesive seal.
- Once you're there, let the pick chill in the top-left corner to keep that adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the top edge of your device for two minutes. Let's get that adhesive loosened up!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently wiggle the pick around the top-left corner of your device to peel away the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 12
Keep that pick away from the front camera! We wouldn't want to risk a lens disaster. Follow these tips to keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to pause just shy of the front camera. You’ve got this!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out, leaving just the tip wedged between the digitizer and the frame. Easy does it!
- Slide the pick above the front camera to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick near the right side of the front camera—just a little heads up before moving forward!
Step 14
- Grab your pick and gently slide it up toward the top-right corner to break the top adhesive seal completely.
- Leave the pick tucked in the top-right corner to keep that adhesive from sticking back.
Step 15
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and stick it to the right edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently work the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break the adhesive seal. Easy does it, no need to rush!
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide carefully and stop once you’re around three inches from the bottom—no need to go further!
- Pop in a new opening pick and slide it halfway along the right edge of the iPad. Easy does it!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and let it chill on the bottom edge of your device for two minutes. It’s like giving your gadget a little spa treatment!
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner—your antenna will thank you!
- Gently slide the pick from the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive. Take your time, there's no rush!
- Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner while you're prepping for the next move. You're doing great!
Step 20
Slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it—going the wrong way could mess with the antenna. Let's keep it safe and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop a fresh opening pick into that little gap you've just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.
- Make sure to park the pick to the left of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Be careful to insert the pick no deeper than 1 mm to keep that right antenna safe and sound!
- Slide an opening pick into the little gap you just made. You're doing great!
- Now, gently work that pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip nestle between the digitizer and the frame—you're almost there!
Step 22
Remember to slide the pick gently toward the home button, not away from it! We wouldn’t want you to accidentally mess with the antenna, right?
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this section again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Insert the pick and gently slide it towards the home button to fully break free the bottom adhesive.
- Leave the pick resting just to the right of the home button and then move on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. This helps loosen things up so you can get to work!
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to work with, and carefully separate all the adhesive using a pick. Don’t hesitate to pause and warm things up again if needed.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges a little heat and glide your trusty opening pick along them like a pro.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a little. This should help you peel away the last of the adhesive—no stress, just a smooth move.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad a bit more.
Step 26
- Carefully hold up the digitizer while sliding an opening pick between the two display cables to gently pry apart the last sticky bits of adhesive.
Step 27
- Once you've successfully separated all the adhesive, gently flip the digitizer open like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When you're putting everything back together, take a moment to tidy up—use some isopropyl alcohol to clean any leftover adhesive from the frame, and the digitizer too if you're reusing it. Don't forget to reapply the adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables while you're reassembling! Make sure they’re snugly tucked under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.
Step 28
- Peel away any tape that's hiding the LCD screws. Let's get that screen open!
Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. You got this!
Step 30
Don’t try to yank the LCD off completely just yet—it’s still hanging on by a few cables near the home button. Start lifting from the front-facing camera side instead.
Take it slow and steady, and keep an eye on those LCD cables as you flip the display over.
Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean surface that won't leave any pesky lint behind.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD out of its snug little home—just enough to give it a friendly lift with your fingers. Watch out for any sticky glue around the screw holes; a little knife action might be needed to slice through it.
- Now, flip that iPad LCD like you're turning the pages of a thrilling novel! Lift near the camera and swing it over to the home button end of the rear case.
- Carefully lay the LCD face down, giving you full access to those display cables below. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 31
Here’s a look at the battery connector under the logic board. These photos are your reference to safely disconnect the battery. Take a good look, and don’t rush—it’s all about precision!
The battery connector has cantilever springs pressing against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need something thin and flexible to gently separate them. No need for force—just a little patience and finesse!
Step 32
To keep things safe and sound, grab a battery isolation pick to gently disconnect the battery without causing a short. Safety first, right?
When using the battery blocker, remember to be gentle! No need to force it under the connector. If it’s being stubborn, a playing card can swoop in as a backup hero to help you disconnect the battery.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board—no bumps allowed! Once it’s in, aim for a cool 15-degree angle to keep it steady.
- Unscrew that little 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector down to the logic board.
- Now, gently slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector at a cozy 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you move on to the next step!
Tools Used
Step 33
- Unscrew those three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket and let’s get this show on the road!
Step 34
The display cable connector is snugly attached to the underside of the bracket, so be careful not to shove the spudger in too far. If you do, you might end up messing with the connector. Take it slow and steady!
- With the flat end of a spudger in hand, gently lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. Take your time – you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Gently detach the LCD screen. Be careful not to apply too much force, just a little wiggle should do the trick.
Step 36
- Carefully peel away any tape that’s blocking the home button ribbon cable connector.
Step 37
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to lift that little tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector up into the air.
- Once that's done, carefully wiggle and pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 38
Be careful! When prying, stick to the connectors themselves—no need to mess with the socket on the logic board. That’s the sweet spot to avoid any damage!
- Grab that trusty spudger or your fingernail, and gently pry up those two digitizer cable connectors from their cozy sockets. They’re just waiting for a little lift!
- As you piece everything back together, be sure those connectors are snugly seated in their sockets. If they’re not, you might run into some display hiccups. Let’s keep it smooth!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the sticky adhesive that's keeping it snug against the rear case. You've got this!
Step 40
You won’t spot this insulation with the naked eye—it’s not like the foam dust barrier strips you see on many iPads, so keep an eye out!
- Let's kick things off by removing the front panel assembly.
- If your brand new display is feeling a bit mischievous with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch input issues, fear not! You can smooth things out by applying a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Our panels already come with the right insulation, so you might not even need to add any tape.
- Without the right insulation, those pesky areas of the digitizer could end up grounding out against other components, leading to some touch input shenanigans. Let's keep things neat and functional!
Step 41
- Slide a spudger gently under the antenna cable near the edge of the iPad and pop it up to unplug the antenna cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 42
- You'll spot two big pieces of tape giving a warm hug to the right antenna cable, holding it snugly against the rear case.
- Gently peel that tape away from the rear case like you're unwrapping a present.
- As you lift the antenna tape, keep it attached to the antenna cable; it’ll be your trusty sidekick during reassembly!
Step 43
The antenna cable is held in place by a small metal bracket that’s securely attached to both the antenna and the speaker enclosure. This little guy is pretty permanent, crimped into place for good.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket—think of it as giving your device a little tickle.
- Now, glide that pick toward the home button to break the adhesive seal—like spreading butter on warm toast!
- With a little finesse, push the bracket away from the speaker until it pops free from the tape below. You're doing great!
Step 44
- Take out these Phillips #000 screws holding down the right antenna:
- One screw measuring 2.3 mm
- Two screws measuring 1.4 mm each
Step 45
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. You're doing great!
- Now, glide that spudger toward the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. Almost there!
Tools Used
Step 46
- Put your device back together by retracing these steps in reverse—easy peasy!
