iPad 6 Wi-Fi Right Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 56 Steps
Go easy on that battery blocker when isolating the battery – play it safe!
Ready to swap out the right-hand speaker on your iPad 6 Wi-Fi? Just a heads-up: when you're isolating the battery with a blocker, be super careful. The battery contacts are delicate, and if they get damaged, it could mess up the logic board—big time. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, stick to non-metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for screw removal) to keep things safe and prevent any short-circuiting or damage to sensitive parts. Need a hand? You can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Warm up your iOpener and gently place it on the left edge of the device for two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- Hey, while that adhesive is softening up, keep an eye on these spots that don't like being pried too hard:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps showcase our Anti-Clamp tool, designed to make opening up your device a whole lot smoother. If you're not using it, feel free to skip ahead three steps for an alternative approach.
For detailed instructions on how to wield the Anti-Clamp, take a peek at this guide.
If the surface of your iPad feels too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to latch on, just add some tape to give it better traction.
- Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms—easy does it!
- Find something to prop your iPad up so it sits nice and level between the suction cups.
- Set the suction cups close to the middle of the left side—one near the top, one near the bottom.
- Keep a firm grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down on the top cup to get that suction going.
Step 4
- Gently pull that blue handle forward to snugly lock the arms in place.
- Twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or just until you feel the suction cups beginning to give a little stretch.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they're staying perfectly aligned. If they start to drift, just loosen them up a tad and nudge the arms back into position.
Step 5
Take it easy – don’t twist more than half a turn at once, and give it a minute to breathe between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do their thing.
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer? Check out our handy guide for all the details.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making enough space, give it a little more heat and twist the handle a half turn clockwise. That should do the trick!
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap for you to work with.
- If the screen's not getting hot enough, just grab a hair dryer and run it along the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made enough space, slip in your opening pick under the digitizer.
- You can skip the next step. No worries!
Step 6
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it as close to the left edge as possible—right at the border.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a small opening between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slip an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame, and start working your way around.
If your display's cracked up pretty badly, you can try sticking a layer of clear packing tape on it to help the suction cup stick. Alternatively, you can use some super strong tape instead of the suction cup. And if nothing works, you can get creative and glue the suction cup to the screen using some superglue. If this sounds too tricky, you can always schedule a repair for professional help.
Tools Used
Step 7
Don't sweat it if you can see the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just pull it out. The LCD screen should be fine, though there’s a chance you’ll leave some sticky adhesive behind that might be a bit of a hassle to clean up.
- Grab your second opening pick and slip it into the gap you just made. Easy does it!
- Gently slide that pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to break up the adhesive. Smooth moves.
- Now, leave the pick chilling in the bottom-left corner to keep that adhesive from sealing itself back up. No surprises here!
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling back the adhesive like a pro.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner to loosen up that adhesive.
- Leave the pick tucked in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for about two minutes. It's like giving your device a little spa treatment, but for fixing!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Give that pick a gentle spin around the top-left corner to loosen up the adhesive – nice and easy!
Step 12
Hey, steer clear of sliding that pick over the front camera—you might scratch the lens! The upcoming steps will show you how to dodge it safely.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, stopping just shy of the front camera. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 13
- Pull the pick out slowly until just the tip remains nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick right above the front camera to loosen up that adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling near the right side of the front camera before you move on.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and nudge it up towards the top-right corner to fully release that sticky top edge.
- Keep the pick lodged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 15
- Grab your iOpener and heat it up! Now, place it on the right edge of your device and let it do its magic for two minutes. Time to warm up that device, literally!
Tools Used
Step 16
- Swing the pick around the top-right corner to gently peel away the adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables are chilling about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Slide carefully, and stop when you're about three inches from the bottom. You got this!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it onto the bottom edge of the device for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to twist the pick all the way around the corner – it could put the antenna at risk!
- Gently slide that bottom-left pick down to the corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Leave the pick parked in the bottom-left corner while we tackle the next part.
Step 20
Keep that pick gliding straight toward the home button—don't veer off, or you might nick the antenna!
If you need to slide the pick across this spot again, simply pop it out and re-insert it starting from the bottom-left corner. Easy as that!
- Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.
- Pause with the pick resting to the left of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Gently slide the pick up just 1 mm—tiny moves keep the right antenna happy and safe!
- Pop that opening pick into the gap you just created – let's keep the momentum going!
- Slide the pick underneath the home button, aiming for the bottom-right corner, and make sure only the tip slips between the digitizer and the frame – steady does it!
Step 22
Be careful when sliding the pick – aim towards the home button, not away from it, to avoid accidentally messing with the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, just remove it and re-insert it starting from the bottom-right corner. You got this!
- Grab your pick and gently slide it towards the home button to fully separate the bottom adhesive. Take your time here, we want it nice and clean.
- Once the pick is in place to the right of the home button, hold steady and get ready to move on. You're doing great!
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the right edge of your device for about two minutes. This will help soften things up for the next steps.
Tools Used
Step 24
Hey, take it easy on this step. Go slow, confirm that adhesive is nice and toasty, and make sure you've peeled off every last bit with your pick. Totally cool to hit pause and warm it up again if needed.
Feeling some serious resistance? Give those edges another quick heat-up and slide your opening pick along for the win!
- Give those opening picks a fun twist on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, breaking free from that last bit of adhesive.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left side of the digitizer and wiggle it a bit to help loosen the adhesive on the right side of your iPad. A little wiggle goes a long way!
Step 26
- Carefully support the digitizer and slide an opening pick between those two display cables to peel off the last bits of adhesive.
Step 27
- With all that pesky adhesive cleared out, gently open the digitizer like flipping through a favorite book and set it flat alongside the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—with some isopropyl alcohol. Swap in fresh adhesive using our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.
Step 28
- Peel off any tape that's hiding the screws on the LCD. This way, you can easily get to the screws without any sticky distractions!
Step 29
- Unscrew the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. A little twist and you'll be closer to that perfect screen!
Step 30
Don't try to pull off the LCD completely just yet! It's still hanging out with a few cables near the home button. Start lifting from the front-facing camera side for an easy release.
Be gentle with the flip and keep an eye on those cables. They’re a bit sensitive, so don’t rush the display over!
Gently lay the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound!
- Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently lift the LCD just enough to get a good grip with your fingers. If you hit any glue around the screw holes, just slice through it with a knife.
- Now, carefully flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book. Start near the camera and rotate it over toward the home button side of the rear case.
- Set the LCD face down so you can easily access those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
These photos give you a peek at the battery connector under the logic board. Use 'em as a guide to safely disconnect the battery.
Spot those cantilever springs on the logic board—they press against the battery pads. Since the board and battery are glued down, slide something thin and flexible between the contacts to get it disconnected.
Step 32
To avoid any shorts, use a battery isolation pick to carefully disconnect the battery.
Be gentle when sliding the battery blocker underneath the connector. No need to force it! If it's being stubborn, try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should smoothly slide under the logic board without any hitches. Once in place, it should rest at about a 15-degree angle.
- Take out the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw holding the battery connector to the logic board—easy does it!
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle—smooth moves here.
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you continue working to keep things safe and sound.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Don't worry, they're not too tight, but you'll need a steady hand!
Step 34
Heads up! The display cable connector is stuck under the bracket, so gently ease your spudger in—don’t go too deep or you might bend the connector. Stay chill and take it slow!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the display cable bracket up from the logic board. Take your time and be careful, you don’t want to force anything!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Gently detach the LCD from its place. Take your time and be careful, it's usually just waiting for you to lift it off. You've got this!
Step 36
- Peel off any tape that’s covering the connector for the home button ribbon cable. Nice and easy, just make sure you don’t rush it!
Step 37
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and give that tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector a gentle upward flip.
- Now, carefully slide the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 38
To keep your iPad safe and sound, pry only on the connectors themselves—not the socket on the logic board. You've got this!
- Grab the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail and gently lift those two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets – take it nice and easy!
- When you're putting things back together, make sure these connectors are fully seated in their spots, or you could run into some annoying display issues.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive keeping it stuck to the back case—think of it like freeing a tiny acrobat from a sticky stage!
Step 40
Psst, this insulation's invisible to the naked eye—totally different from those squishy foam dust strips on lots of iPads.
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting spooky with phantom touches, a little hack can help: stick a thin strip of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, on the marked spots on the back of the panel. Panels from Salvation Repair usually come with the right insulation, so you might not even need this step.
- Without proper insulation, certain spots on the digitizer might short against other parts, making your touch input act up. Keep it insulated to keep things smooth.
Step 41
- Gently slide a spudger under the antenna cable near the iPad’s edge and lift it up to pop the antenna connector free.
Tools Used
Step 42
- You’ll find two big pieces of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, holding it in place on the rear case.
- Gently peel that tape off the rear case.
- As you peel the tape, try to keep it attached to the antenna cable—this will make putting everything back together easier later!
Step 43
The antenna cable is secured to the speaker with a small metal clip. This clip is firmly attached to the antenna and is also glued to the speaker housing. Nice and snug!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
- Glide the pick toward the home button to slice through the adhesive.
- Push the bracket away from the speaker until it clears the tape underneath.
Step 44
- Alright, let's tackle these Phillips #000 screws keeping the right antenna snug—one 2.3 mm screw and two 1.4 mm ones. You've got this!
Step 45
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
- Carefully slide that spudger towards the home button to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Go ahead and gently remove the right antenna from the iPad – you're doing great!
Step 47
- Grab your trusty spudger and slide it under the left antenna cable. Gently lift upwards to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 48
- You'll spot five strips of tape looped around the left antenna cable, which is covering the right speaker cable connector.
- Carefully peel the tape up from the rear case.
- Fold the antenna cable out of the way to clear the space.
Step 49
If the speaker cable has a little bend, peeling the tape off from the end might be a bit tricky.
Handle the tweezers with care—just grab the tape and peel it off gently, avoiding the cable underneath.
- Now, grab the tape just beneath the speaker and gently peel it down, away from the case edge. Take your time, it’s a smooth move!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently peel the tape toward the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector.
Step 51
- Take the pointed tip of your spudger and gently flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
- Now, slide that speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 52
- Carefully peel off the tape that’s keeping the speaker attached to the back case. You’re almost there!
Step 53
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the back case, like you're freeing a tiny superhero cape!
Step 54
- Twist out the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s keeping the speaker snug against the rear case.
Step 55
- Gently slip your fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, close to the rear case corner.
- Carefully pull the speaker down, moving it away from the case corner.
Tools Used
Step 56
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently work it under the speaker, lifting it out from the edge of the rear case.
- Carefully remove the right speaker from your iPad. Nice and easy, you got this!
