iPad 7 Cellular Antennas Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 58 Steps
Ready to swap out or fix the cellular antennas in your iPad 7? Just a heads-up, this guide is for the LTE model only. If you're working on the Wi-Fi version, click here. When you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker, be extra careful – the contacts are super delicate, and one wrong move could lead to some serious damage. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, remember to avoid using metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for unscrewing). This will help you avoid shorting the battery or causing harm to other sensitive parts. Some of the photos in this guide may come from a different iPad model, so don't be alarmed by any slight differences – they won't mess with the steps at all!
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the device's left edge for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is loosening up, keep an eye out for these tricky spots where prying can cause trouble:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we came up with to make opening your device a bit smoother. If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, no worries—just skip ahead three steps for a different method.
Need more info on how to use the Anti-Clamp? We've got you covered with this full guide.
If your iPad's surface feels too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grab onto, just stick on some tape to give it a bit more grip.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug backward to set the Anti-Clamp's arms free!
- Slide something under your iPad to keep it nice and level between those suction cups.
- Place the suction cups snugly near the center of the left edge—one up top, and one down below.
- Stabilize the bottom of the Anti-Clamp, then confidently press down on the top cup to create a strong seal.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and slide it forward to lock the arms into place.
- Give the handle a nice, smooth 360-degree turn (or keep turning until the cups start to stretch).
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay aligned. If they start drifting apart, loosen them a bit and gently realign the arms. Simple fix!
Step 5
Take it easy and don’t twist more than half a turn at once, giving it a minute to breathe between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting for you.
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, give the area a bit more heat and turn the handle clockwise half a turn to loosen things up.
- Give the adhesive a moment—about a minute should do the trick—to loosen up and make room for an opening gap.
- If your screen isn't warming up as quickly as you'd like, a hair dryer can help out—just give the left edge of your iPad a gentle heat boost.
- Once you've got a decent gap thanks to the Anti-Clamp, gently slide an opening pick under the digitizer to move forward.
- Skip ahead to the next step; you're good to go!
Step 6
When your screen is shattered to smithereens, slap on a piece of clear packing tape to give the suction cup something to grab onto. No tape? No problem—strong adhesive tape can step in as the suction cup's sidekick. And if you're feeling extra determined, a dab of superglue can bond the suction cup right to that cracked glass. Keep it steady and let's get that screen off!
- When your screen is feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, getting as close to the edge as you can.
- Gently pull up on the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame – just enough to get things moving.
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you've made between the digitizer and the frame to keep it open.
Tools Used
Step 7
No stress if the opening pick shows through the digitizer—just slide it out gently. The LCD should stay safe, but be careful not to leave behind any sticky adhesive mess that's a pain to clean later.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick tucked in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a champ!
Step 9
- Gently glide that first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep the pick snug in the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t decide to play hide and seek again.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Take your pick and gently work it around the top-left corner of your device to peel away the sticky stuff. Go slow, we don't want to rush this part!
Step 12
Careful not to slide the pick over the front camera — we want to keep that lens safe and sound! The next steps will guide you on how to dodge any accidental lens damage.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, making sure to stop just before you reach the front camera. Take your time—no rush!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick smoothly above the front camera to break the adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera for the next steps.
Step 14
- Slide that pick back in and shimmy it over to the top-right corner of your device to fully break free the top adhesive. You're almost there!
- Keep that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and let it hang out on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes. It's like giving your device a mini spa treatment before diving into the repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Twist that pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive, and let’s get this party started!
Step 17
The display cables hang out around the halfway point from the bottom of your iPad. Once you get about three inches from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad's right side.
Step 18
- Warm up that iOpener and let it work its magic on the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes. Give it a little time to soften things up before you dive into the next step!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner – you might accidentally mess with the antenna.
- Gently slide the pick into the bottom-left corner to start separating that adhesive. It should come apart without too much trouble.
- Keep the pick in place in the bottom-left corner as you get ready to move on to the next step. We're almost there!
Step 20
Slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it, to avoid messing with the antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this area once more, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Pop a fresh opening pick into that little gap you just made along the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.
- Keep that pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
Careful now! Only slide the pick in up to 1 mm to keep that right antenna safe and sound.
- Slide an opening pick into the tiny gap you've just made. You're doing great!
- Gently maneuver the pick underneath the home button and aim it toward the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip sneak in between the digitizer and the frame—you're almost there!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—avoid pushing it the other way to keep that antenna safe and sound!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things moving smoothly.
- Slide the pick back in and gently ease it toward the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.
- Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and give some love to the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to work with, and carefully separate all of it using a pick. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to pause and reheat before moving on.
If you feel a lot of resistance, give those edges another warm-up and gently slide your opening pick along them to loosen things up.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just enough to break the last bits of adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer and give it a little nudge upwards. This will help loosen the adhesive on the right edge of your iPad. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 26
- Keep the digitizer steady and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break through the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- Once you've peeled away all the sticky stuff, carefully open the digitizer like you're flipping a page of your favorite book, and lay it down flat, parallel to your iPad.
- When you're putting everything back together, grab some isopropyl alcohol and give the remaining adhesive a good wipe-down—don't forget to clean the digitizer if you're planning to reuse it. Then, add fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards for that nice, clean seal.
- As you reassemble, take extra care with those display cables. Make sure they’re tucked neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. You've got this!
- As you dive into this repair adventure, keep an eye on each screw and make sure it finds its way back home. We don’t want any rogue screws causing mischief!
- Don’t forget to peel away any tape that’s hiding those sneaky LCD screws. Let’s make sure we can see what we’re working with!
Step 29
Hold your horses! Don’t go yanking that LCD out just yet—it’s still attached by a few cables over by the home button. Let’s keep it connected for now.
Gently lift the LCD from the front-facing camera side. You've got this!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the LCD just enough to grab it with your fingers. A little nudge goes a long way!
- Flip the LCD like you’re turning a page in a book, lifting it near the camera, and flipping it over towards the home button side of the rear case.
- Now, place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface. This will give you easy access to the display cables without any distractions.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the single 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board in place.
Step 31
Check out these photos to get a good look at the battery connector beneath the logic board. Keep them handy while you gently disconnect the battery.
You'll notice the battery connector has cantilever springs pressing against the battery contact pads. Both the logic board and battery are glued down, so you'll need to carefully slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.
Step 32
Take extra care when using a battery blocker to isolate the battery. The contacts are delicate and can easily bend or break, leading to permanent damage. Stay gentle and cautious, and remember, if things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing upwards—no upside-down surprises here!
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector with too much muscle. If it’s being stubborn, try slipping a playing card underneath to gently disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board smoothly, like a ninja avoiding obstacles. Once in, it should chill at about a 15 degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a cool 35-degree angle. You've got this!
- Keep that battery blocker snugly in place while you tackle the next steps. You're making great progress!
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 34
- Take off the display cable bracket.
Step 35
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the LCD cable by the press connector. Just straight up, like you're giving it a friendly high five!
- When it's time to reconnect those press connectors, take a deep breath and align one side just right. Press down until you hear that satisfying click, and then do the same on the other side. Remember, no poking the middle! If things get a little wonky and the connector isn't aligned, you might bend the pins, and that’s a no-go for keeping your device happy.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Take off the LCD with care and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.
Step 37
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift the tape that’s covering the home button cable’s ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable's ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 40
Be careful not to mess with the socket on the logic board—stick to prying just the connectors. You got this!
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift those two digitizer cables straight up from their press connectors to disconnect them without any drama.
Tools Used
Step 41
Be careful not to poke or rip that home button ribbon cable, it's a delicate little thing!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the flat end underneath the vibration isolator lurking just below the SIM card reader.
- Once it's pried up, go ahead and remove that vibration isolator like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 42
The cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive. Nothing too sticky, just enough to keep it from going anywhere.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel the home button cable away from the back case. Take your time—no rush, just a smooth and steady move.
Tools Used
Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame. It's like cutting through butter—if butter was a sticky mess!
Watch out for those sneaky areas on the digitizer! Without the right insulation, they might short-circuit against other components, leading to some touch input hiccups. Let's keep things smooth and responsive!
Now, here's a little secret: the insulation is a bit of a ninja—totally invisible to the naked eye! It's not the same as the foam dust barriers you might find on many iPads, so keep that in mind while you're working.
- Take off the front panel assembly. Easy does it!
- Got some 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issues with your new display? No worries! Simply add a thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. If you're using a replacement display from us, no tape is needed – it comes pre-insulated!
- Before putting everything back together, make sure to wipe away any leftover adhesive on your device. Use some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to clean the areas where the adhesive will stick. This ensures the new adhesive will bond just right.
- Give your device a quick test to make sure everything's working smoothly. Then, apply those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of your display, following our guide, before sealing it up.
Step 44
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the upper component bracket, taking care to keep it steady and smooth.
Step 45
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the five screws holding down the upper component bracket.
- There are three screws that are 1.4 mm long.
- And two screws that are 1.9 mm long.
Step 46
You might need to gently peel off the upper component bracket to free it from some tape that's keeping it snug against the logic board.
- Gently pry up the upper component bracket using the pointed tip of your spudger until it’s loose enough to grab with your fingers.
- Take off the upper component bracket.
Tools Used
Step 47
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop off the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 48
- Time to get that front camera out of hiding! Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift it out of its snug little spot until you can easily hold it with your fingers.
- Now, use that spudger magic to peel away the adhesive foam pad that's keeping the front camera in place. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 49
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently hold onto that front camera. Give it a little twist and guide the cable through its cozy slot in the rear case.
- Now it’s time to say goodbye to the front camera. Go ahead and remove it!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently pry up the headphone jack connector using the flat end of a spudger, lifting it straight up to disconnect it without any drama.
Tools Used
Step 51
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift that headphone jack off the logic board, then sweep the cable to the side like you're clearing a path for something cool to happen!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding the cellular antennas in place on the rear case. They're small, but you've got this!
Step 53
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four tiny 1.4 mm screws that are holding the cellular antennas in place on the rear case. Easy peasy, right?
Step 54
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointed end to gently pry up the right cellular antenna coaxial cable. Aim close to the connector for a smooth disconnection!
- Now, let's move on and disconnect the left antenna cable.
Tools Used
Step 55
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry up both cellular antennas right at their press connectors. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 56
- Slide the sharp end of your spudger behind the right cellular antenna bracket and give it a gentle nudge to pop it loose.
- Carefully lift the right cellular antenna away from the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 57
Hold the antenna cable by its wire, not the connector—pulling on the connector can snap it, and that’s no fun!
- Gently lift the left cellular antenna coaxial cable away from the back case.
Step 58
- Put your device back together by reversing these steps—easy peasy!
- Remember to drop off your e-waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- If things didn’t quite go as planned, give some basic troubleshooting a shot or reach out to the iPad 7 Answers community for a hand.
- And hey, if you ever get stuck, you can always schedule a repair with us!
