iPad 7 Left Bluetooth and Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 52 Steps
Ready to swap out that left Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna in your iPad 7? This guide has got you covered, but just a heads-up: it’s for the LTE version only. If you’ve got the Wi-Fi model, click here for the right guide. Some instructions here are borrowed from an older model, but don’t worry—most of the process is the same. All you need is a bit of replacement adhesive to get the job done smoothly. Let’s get that antenna back in action!
Step 1
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that don’t like being pried:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The upcoming three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool crafted to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not working with the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
For full details on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, try adding a bit of tape to create some extra traction.
- Give that blue handle a little tug back to set the Anti-Clamp's arms free.
- Slide something underneath your iPad so it sits nice and flat between those suction cups.
- Pop those suction cups right around the center of the left edge—one up top and one down below.
- Stabilize the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and press down firmly on the top cup to create some solid suction.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until you see the cups start to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.
Step 5
Don't rush it! Turn just half a turn at a time, then take a breather for a minute between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting.
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If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you enough wiggle room, heat up the area a bit more and give the handle a gentle half-turn clockwise.
- Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a gap for you.
- If your screen isn't warming up enough, feel free to give it a gentle blow with a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and there's a decent gap, slide in an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
Got a seriously cracked screen? Slap a layer of clear packing tape over it to give your suction cup something to grab onto. No suction cup? No worries—strong tape can step in as your new best friend. And if things are really stubborn, a dab of superglue can help stick that suction cup right where you need it.
- When the screen feels nice and warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it as close to the left edge as you can.
- Gently pull the screen up with the suction handle, creating a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap you just made, and you're on your way!
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer—just pull it out. The LCD screen should be fine, but be aware that you might leave some sticky residue behind that's a bit tricky to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a pro.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your device to break free from that sticky adhesive.
- Keep that pick in the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t get all cozy and re-attach itself.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently glide the pick around the top-left corner of your device to break through that sticky adhesive. You've got this!
Step 12
Careful around the front camera! Slide that pick gently to avoid scratching the lens. We'll show you the safest way to do it in the next steps.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, just shy of the front camera. You’re almost there!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick above the front camera to break that adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving forward.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and gently slide it up towards the top-right corner of your device to fully break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep the pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from re-joining the party.
Step 15
- Grab your trusty iOpener and give it a warm-up! Place it on the right edge of your device and let it chill there for a solid two minutes. It's like a cozy blanket for your gadget!
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
The display cables are about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding when you're about three inches from the bottom to avoid any accidental snags. Take it slow and steady!
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it down to the middle of the iPad's right edge. It's like unlocking a secret passage—just be smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner, or you might accidentally mess with the antenna!
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick tucked in that corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Be careful to slide the pick only towards the home button—going the other way could give the antenna a bad day!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Gently slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick along the antenna, but stop just before reaching the home button.
- Leave the pick to the left of the home button, and you're all set to continue.
Step 21
Gently slide the pick in no more than 1 mm to keep that right antenna safe and sound.
- Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made, like slipping a bookmark into a favorite page.
- Carefully slide the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, keeping just the tip sneaking between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we definitely don't want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this section again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.
- Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take your time with this step—no rush! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, soft enough to work with, and that you've gently separated all of it using a pick. If you feel like it's getting tough, don't hesitate to reheat and try again!
If you hit some stubborn spots, go ahead and warm up the edges again, then gently slide your opening pick along to loosen things up.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad. This will give the digitizer a little lift and gradually break free the last bit of stubborn adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.
Step 26
- Hold the digitizer steady and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- Once you've successfully peeled off all that pesky adhesive, gently flip the digitizer open like a charming little book and lay it down parallel to your iPad.
- As you put everything back together, be sure to tidy up any leftover adhesive from the frame—and give the digitizer a little cleaning if you're reusing it—with some isopropyl alcohol. Don't forget to replace that old adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables while you're reassembling the device! Make sure they're neatly tucked away under the LCD screen so they don’t get hurt.
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and take out the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.
- Keep a close eye on every screw you remove—each one needs to go back to its original spot to keep your device happy and healthy.
- Peel away any tape that might be hiding the LCD screws before you start unscrewing.
Step 29
Don't try to yank the LCD off completely just yet – it's still holding on by a few cables near the home button. Take it slow and steady!
Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end, like you're gently nudging it awake. Easy does it!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD out of its snug little home—just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, like flipping the pages of your favorite book, flip the iPad LCD up near the camera and then roll it over towards the home button end of the rear case.
- Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and pop out the single 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Steady hands, you got this!
Step 31
These photos show you what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. Keep these pics handy as a guide while you carefully disconnect the battery.
Notice the battery connector has cantilever springs that press against the battery contact pads on the logic board. Since both the board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between them to disconnect the battery. Take it slow, and don’t rush!
Step 32
Handle the battery blocker with care! The contacts on the battery are a bit delicate and can bend or break easily, which can lead to some serious damage. Take your time and be gentle. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up like a proud flag!
Be gentle with that battery blocker; no need to force it under the connector. If you're having a tough time, grab a playing card to help disconnect the battery instead. It's way more fun!
The battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board smoothly, like a hot knife through butter. Once it's in, it should sit at a cool 15-degree angle. Easy peasy!
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you continue working—it's got your back!
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three little screws holding the display cable bracket in place—each one is just 1.4 mm long. You've got this!
Step 34
- Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 35
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift the LCD cable's press connector straight up to unplug it.
- When it’s time to reconnect these press connectors, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—misalignment can bend those tiny pins and cause irreversible damage.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Gently lift the LCD off and place it face down on a clean, soft surface. Make sure it's nice and comfy, free of any dust or lint. We don’t want anything getting in the way of this smooth repair!
Step 37
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape that's holding the home button cable ZIF connector in place. Take your time—no rush here!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable's ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 40
Be gentle with your iPad! Pry carefully on the connectors themselves, not the socket on the logic board. You got this!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the two digitizer cables straight up from the press connectors. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 41
Careful now—don’t poke or rip the home button ribbon cable while you work!
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the vibration isolator located beneath the SIM card reader to lift it up.
- Carefully take out the vibration isolator.
Tools Used
Step 42
The cable is lightly taped in place, making it easy to handle.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel the home button cable off the back case. Take your time, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame. It's like a little dance—just be careful not to trip!
Watch out! Without the right insulation, the digitizer's sensitive spots can get a bit too friendly with other components, leading to some touch input hiccups. Let's keep everything cozy and functioning smoothly!
The insulation is a sneaky little thing—it's not visible to the naked eye and is quite different from those foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads. Keep an eye out for it!
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, a thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape applied to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel usually does the trick. Replacement digitizers already come with the right insulation, so no extra tape should be needed.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Clean the glued areas with 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to prep it for fresh adhesive — this helps everything stick like it should.
- Before sealing it up, test your iPad’s functions and apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide.
Step 44
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to carefully lift up the small, hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. It's a simple move, but one that’ll help you get to the next step smoothly!
Tools Used
Step 45
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Be careful not to rush—take it slow, you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 46
There are two antenna cables in this area, but all you need to worry about is the one that’s farther from the edge. Go ahead and disconnect that one, and you’re good to go!
- Slide the sharp end of a spudger beneath the left antenna cable and gently lift it straight up to release the connection. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 47
- Carefully lift the left antenna cable away from the back casing.
Hold the antenna cable by the cable itself, not the connector. Yanking coaxial cables from the connector can easily cause them to break—treat it gently!
The tape holding the left antenna cable is actually under the tape securing the right antenna cable. If you're struggling a bit, try disconnecting and peeling off the right antenna cable first to make things easier.
Step 48
- Keep on peeling that left antenna cable away from the rear case, gliding along the bottom edge of the iPad like a pro!
Step 50
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and get ready to pop out the three screws holding down the right antenna:
- One screw that's 2.3 mm long
- Two screws that are 1.4 mm long each
Step 51
The antenna cable is secured to the speaker by a small metal bracket. This bracket is firmly attached to both the antenna and the speaker enclosure. To remove the antenna, you'll need to cut through the adhesive holding it in place.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—nice and easy does it.
- Now, move that pick towards the charging port and give the adhesive a little nudge to break the seal.
- Once that’s done, gently push the bracket away from the speaker to free it from the tape underneath. You’ve got this!
Step 52
- Now, just reverse those steps and put everything back together, piece by piece. You're almost there!
- Got any e-waste lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It's a win for you and the planet.
- Things didn’t quite go as planned? No worries—check out some basic troubleshooting, or head over to our community for a little extra help. We’ve got your back!
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