iPad 7 Right Bluetooth and Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 51 Steps
Ready to swap out the right Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna in your iPad 7? This guide is for the LTE version, so if you've got the Wi-Fi version, head over to this link. One thing to keep in mind: isolating the battery with a battery blocker is super important. The battery contacts are delicate, and messing them up can lead to some major issues. If you prefer to skip isolating the battery, just avoid using metal tools unless it's absolutely necessary (like when you’re taking screws out). This will help keep your battery and circuits safe from any accidents. Oh, and while some steps might come from an older model, don’t worry—there are just a few tiny differences. Overall, the process is pretty much the same!
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the left edge of the device for two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic and soften things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like to be messed with:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy little tool we've created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
Need a bit more info on how to work with the Anti-Clamp? Check out our full guide right here.
If your iPad’s surface is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to get a grip, no worries—just stick some tape on it to give it some extra traction.
- Grab the blue handle and gently pull it back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms. Nice and easy!
- Set something soft under your iPad to keep it perfectly balanced between the suction cups. We’re aiming for a smooth ride here.
- Place one suction cup at the top and one at the bottom, right near the middle of the left edge. We’re going for symmetry!
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down on the top cup to activate that suction. You're almost there!
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree twist clockwise, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to slip out of sync, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Take it easy and don't twist more than half a turn at a time! Give it a minute between those turns. Let that Anti-Clamp and some patience do the heavy lifting for you.
Want the full lowdown on using a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough room, just heat it up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise to loosen things up.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little opening gap.
- If your screen isn't warming up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to heat things up a bit.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, wrapping it up in a layer of clear packing tape might just do the trick to help the suction cup stick. Or, if you're feeling adventurous, you can swap the suction cup for some super strong tape. And if things get dire, a little superglue will help you attach that suction cup right to your broken screen!
- When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it right on the left edge, as close to the border as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame—slow and steady wins the race!
- Slide an opening pick carefully into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to start loosening things up.
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Step 7
No need to fret if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle tug and pull it out. The LCD screen is likely safe and sound, but be careful not to leave behind any sticky adhesive that could be a hassle to clean later!
- Pop in a second opening pick where you've just made some space.
- Gently glide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of your device to break that stubborn adhesive bond.
- Keep that pick snugly in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up.
Step 8
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stubborn in the adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep separating that sticky stuff like a pro.
Step 9
- Gently nudge the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break free that pesky adhesive.
- Keep that pick in place at the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn't decide to stick around again!
Step 10
- Warm up that iOpener and let it chill on the top edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently work the pick around the top-left corner of the device to ease off the adhesive. Take your time, it's all about patience!
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens—sliding over it could cause some unwanted damage. The next steps will show you how to dodge that mishap like a pro.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but ease up just before you reach the front camera to keep things safe.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick just above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it down.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you press on to the next step.
Step 14
- Grab your pick, reinsert it, and give it a little slide towards the top-right corner of your device to fully break free that top adhesive. You're doing great!
- Once you've got it separated, leave that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up.
Step 15
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide carefully and stop once you’re about three inches from the bottom—no need to go any further!
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it to the center of the iPad's right edge. You've got this!
Step 18
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let's get that adhesive nice and toasty!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to swing that pick all the way around the corner, or you might accidentally poke the antenna and cause some trouble.
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to start loosening that adhesive.
- Keep the pick right there in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Gently slide the pick only toward the home button—going the other way could mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this section again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Pop a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the pick across the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.
- Leave the pick just to the left of the home button before you keep going.
Step 21
Gently slide the pick in no more than 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Pop an opening pick into the little gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip sneaks between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Gently slide the pick towards the home button – don't push it the other way! You might end up messing with the antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Slide the pick back in and gently wiggle it toward the home button to fully break through the sticky bottom adhesive.
- Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to separate, and use your pick to carefully work through all the glue. Don’t hesitate to pause and heat it up again if needed.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges another little heat-up and gently glide your opening pick along them. You've got this!
- Gently twist those two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to give the digitizer a little lift, while also bidding farewell to the last bits of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
- Keep the digitizer steady while you gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to peel apart the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- Once you've carefully peeled away all that pesky adhesive, gently swing open the digitizer like a charming little book and lay it down parallel to your iPad.
- As you put everything back together, give a little love to the frame by cleaning up any leftover adhesive. If you're reusing the digitizer, a splash of isopropyl alcohol will do wonders! Don't forget to swap in our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards for a snug fit.
- Keep an eye on those display cables while you're reassembling. Tuck them in neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. We want everything to come together beautifully!
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.
- Keep an eye on each screw you take out and remember where it belongs—mixing them up can cause trouble down the line.
- Peel away any tape hiding the LCD screws so you can get to them easily.
Step 29
Hold up—don’t yank the LCD completely just yet! It’s still hanging out with a bunch of cables near the home button.
Gently lift the LCD starting from the front-facing camera side only.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its snug little spot—just enough so you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.
- Carefully flip the LCD like you're turning the pages of a book—lift from near the camera and gently swing it over towards the home button side of the rear case.
- Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables. Make sure it’s comfy!
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and twist out the lone 2.3 mm screw that’s holding the battery connector to the logic board. Easy does it!
Step 31
Check out these photos to get a good look at what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. These visuals will help you safely disconnect the battery without any hiccups!
You'll notice those clever cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are stuck down with glue, you'll want to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to get that battery disconnected.
Step 32
Handle the battery blocker with care! Those battery contacts can be a bit delicate and might bend or break, leading to some serious trouble down the line. Stay sharp and keep everything intact!
Make sure the battery blocker is facing up with its logo showing, just like the instructions say.
Avoid forcing the battery blocker under the connector. If it’s being stubborn, grab a playing card to carefully disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should smoothly slide under the logic board without any obstacles. Once it’s in, it should rest at a gentle 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, tilting it just right at a 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you tackle the rest of the repair.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three little screws, each measuring 1.4 mm. They're holding down the display cable bracket, and it's time to set them free!
Step 34
- Detach the display cable bracket with care.
Step 35
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD cable connector straight up and unplug it—no wiggle, just a smooth lift.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this one, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and avoid any bendy mishaps.
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Step 36
- Gently take off the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface. Let's treat it with care while we work our magic!
Step 37
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift off the tape that’s hiding the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Step 38
- Gently lift the tiny, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector using the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. You've got this!
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Step 39
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—steady hands win this round!
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Step 40
To keep your iPad safe and sound, remember to only pry gently on the connectors themselves—steer clear of the socket on the logic board. You've got this!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the two digitizer cables by their press connectors—just give them a little nudge straight up. You've got this!
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Step 41
Careful now! Avoid poking or ripping the home button ribbon cable—it’s delicate, like your favorite playlist on shuffle.
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently lift the vibration isolator tucked away beneath the SIM card reader. You've got this!
- Now, go ahead and take out the vibration isolator. Easy peasy!
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Step 42
The cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the rear case. You've got this!
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Step 43
Grab an opening pick to carefully slice through any leftover adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame.
Remember, without the right insulation, parts of the digitizer might short-circuit against other components, messing with touch responsiveness.
This insulation is sneaky — you won’t see it with the naked eye, and it’s not the same as the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, no worries! You can fix this by applying a super thin strip of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers usually come with the right insulation, so you probably won’t need to add tape.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those sticky areas with high-strength isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) using a lint-free cloth. This step gets your iPad ready for fresh adhesive and helps it stick perfectly.
- Give your iPad a quick function test, then apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.
Step 44
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to pop up the little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. You're doing great!
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Step 45
- With a gentle touch, grab a pair of tweezers and carefully pull the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 46
There are two antenna cables here, but you only need to unplug the one hanging out closest to the edge.
- Slide the pointed tip of your spudger carefully beneath the right antenna cable, then gently pop it straight up to unplug it.
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Step 47
Grab the antenna cable by the cable itself, not the connector. Tugging on those coaxial connectors can lead to breakage!
- Gently lift the right antenna cable up.
Step 48
- Gently keep peeling the right antenna cable away from the rear case, like you're unveiling a tiny tech mystery.
Step 49
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three screws holding the right antenna in place.
- One screw measuring 2.3 mm in length
- Two screws each 1.4 mm long
Step 50
The antenna cable is securely held in place by a tiny metal bracket attached to the speaker. This bracket is crimped onto the antenna and glued to the speaker enclosure like a match made in tech heaven. To free the antenna, you'll need to carefully cut through that adhesive. Let's get that antenna out and back in action!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket. Just like tucking in a blanket!
- Now, carefully guide the pick towards the charging port, slicing through the adhesive like a pro.
- Push the bracket away from the speaker until it clears the tape underneath. It should come loose without any drama!
Step 51
- Now, simply follow the reverse steps to put everything back together.
- When your device’s life has ended, make sure to recycle it with an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Repair didn’t quite go as planned? No worries—try some basic troubleshooting or check out our iPad 7 Answers community for some extra tips.
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