iPad 7 SIM Card Reader Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 50 Steps
This guide shows you how to remove or replace the SIM card reader in an iPad 7, but heads up—it's for the LTE version only. If you have the Wi-Fi model, click here instead. When disconnecting the battery with a battery blocker, take extra care—those battery contacts are delicate and can be damaged permanently. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to avoid metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like when unscrewing) to prevent short circuits and protect the sensitive components. Some photos might be from a slightly different model, but don’t worry—they won’t throw off the steps.
Step 1
- Warm up your iOpener and give a little love to the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While waiting for that adhesive to loosen up, make sure you're mindful of these areas that don't love being pried at:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next few steps show how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
Want a deeper dive into how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for all the details.
If the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just add some tape to create a better surface for it to hold onto.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set your iPad on something to keep it level between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top and the other near the bottom.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top suction cup to create suction.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to securely lock those arms in place.
- Twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees, or until you see those suction cups starting to stretch out.
- Double-check that the suction cups stay lined up with each other. If they start slipping out of sync, just loosen them a little and get those arms back in line.
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then take a breather for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do all the heavy lifting for you.
For a full lowdown on how to work that hair dryer like a pro, check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough space, just warm it up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise to loosen things up.
- Give it a minute to let that adhesive do its thing and start loosening up, creating a nice little gap.
- If the screen's not heating up enough, try using a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad to give it some extra warmth.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and you've got a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to move things along.
- You can skip the next step. No need to worry about that one.
Step 6
- When the screen feels nice and toasty, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, keeping it as close to the edge as you can.
- Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to wiggle open a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you've just created between the digitizer and the frame.
If your display is cracked beyond recognition, try sticking a piece of clear packing tape over it. This can help the suction cup stick to the screen. If you don't have a suction cup handy, some heavy-duty tape can do the trick instead. Worst case scenario, you can glue the suction cup right onto the broken screen—just make sure it's secure. But hey, if you're feeling unsure or it's just too tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 7
No stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle pull. The LCD should stay safe, but be careful not to leave stubborn adhesive behind.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you made earlier.
- Slide it down toward the bottom-left corner of the device to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t try to seal itself back up.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, simply 'roll' it along the edge of the iPad to keep breaking the adhesive apart. Keep going, you've got this!
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break that stubborn adhesive loose.
- Leave the pick snugly in the top-left corner to keep that adhesive from playing tricks and sealing back up!
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the top edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Step 12
Hey there! Just a heads up—try not to glide that pick over the front camera. You might end up giving the lens a little love tap, and it doesn't need that! Follow the upcoming steps to keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, making sure to pause right before you reach the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip is snugly sitting between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick just above the front camera to break that pesky adhesive loose.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on. You're doing great!
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the device’s top-right corner to fully break through that stubborn top adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently glide that pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom edge of your iPad. Slide your fingers up until you hit roughly three inches from the bottom, then pause—you're right where you need to be!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your device. You'll be amazed at how much that helps!
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner—your antenna will thank you for keeping it safe!
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick chilling in the bottom-left corner while you get ready for the next step.
Step 20
Keep that pick close to the home button! Sliding it away might mess with the antenna, and we definitely don't want that. Stay safe!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this part again, just pop it out and tuck it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop in a brand new opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide that pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you reach the home button.
- Keep the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
Just slide the pick in up to 1 mm—any more, and you might mess with that delicate antenna. Keep it gentle!
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made—nice and easy!
- Now, gently glide the pick under the home button and head towards the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip slip in between the digitizer and the frame. You're doing great!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently only towards the home button — sliding it the other way could mess with the antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and start again from the bottom-right corner.
- Slide the pick back in and gently work it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.
- Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and ready.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow here – no rush! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, soft enough to work with, and that you've loosened it all up with your pick. It's totally fine to pause and reheat if needed. You’ve got this.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give the edges a little extra heat and gently work your way around them with an opening pick. Take it slow, you've got this!
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to nudge the digitizer up a bit, loosening the last bits of adhesive holding it in place.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
- With a gentle hand on the digitizer, carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 27
- After you've carefully separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting things back together, give the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—a good clean with isopropyl alcohol to remove any leftover adhesive. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.
- Keep a close eye on each screw throughout the repair—make sure every one goes back to its original spot to keep your device happy and healthy.
- Peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get to them without any trouble.
Step 29
Hold up! Don’t yank the LCD all the way out just yet—it’s still hanging on by a bunch of cables near the home button.
Gently peel the LCD up starting from the front-facing camera side only.
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger to ease the LCD out of its cozy little spot, just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Now, give that iPad LCD a little flip like you're turning a page in a book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over towards the home button end of the rear case.
- Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the lone 2.3 mm-long screw that's keeping the battery connector snugly attached to the logic board. You've got this!
Step 31
Check out these shots to see what the battery connector looks like tucked under the logic board. Keep these handy as you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
Heads up! When isolating the battery with a battery blocker, handle those contacts gently—they're delicate and can bend or break easily, causing damage you won’t want to deal with.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up—it's like giving it a little pep talk! Remember, don’t force the battery blocker under the connector like you're trying to impress someone. If it’s putting up a fight, grab a playing card and gently coax the battery free instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide right under the logic board like it’s gliding on ice—no roadblocks, please! Once it's in, it should sit at a cool 15-degree angle, just chilling out.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you continue working.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Steady hands, you got this!
Step 34
- Take off the display cable bracket.
Step 35
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the LCD cable connector straight up—think of it as a little elevator ride for the cable.
- When it’s time to snap those press connectors back in, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to keep those pins happy and unbent.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Carefully take out the LCD and set it down, screen side facing the surface, on a nice, clean, soft, lint-free spot.
Step 37
- Grab a handy pair of tweezers and gently peel away that tape hiding the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug the home button ribbon cable straight out of that ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 40
Be gentle and only pry on the connectors themselves—giving the logic board socket a poke is a no-go if you want to keep your iPad happy and healthy.
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the two digitizer cables straight up to pop those press connectors free. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 41
Be gentle and avoid poking or ripping the home button ribbon cable—it’s delicate and deserves some love!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up the vibration isolator located just below the SIM card reader. It's like giving it a little lift to say hello!
- Once it's popped up, go ahead and remove that vibration isolator. You're one step closer to achieving repair greatness!
Tools Used
Step 42
The cable is held in place with a little bit of adhesive magic.
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the back case like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that's still clinging the front panel assembly to the frame. It's time to set it free!
Watch out! If these areas of the digitizer aren’t insulated, they might accidentally ground out against other parts, leading to some pesky touch input issues. Let's keep things zippy!
This insulation is a sneaky little thing—not visible to the naked eye and quite different from the foam dust barriers found on many iPads. Keep your eyes peeled!
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, don’t panic! A thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape on the highlighted spots at the back of the panel usually does the trick. Replacement digitizers already come insulated, so this step might be unnecessary.
- When putting things back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean the sticky areas with high-proof isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth to get the surface ready for fresh adhesive. This helps everything stick just right.
- Before sealing it all up, test your iPad's functions and apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide.
Step 44
- Grab a SIM eject tool, a tiny bit, or even a straightened paper clip and pop it into the SIM card tray hole.
- Give it a firm press to make the SIM card tray pop right out.
Step 45
- Gently pop out the SIM card tray from your iPad to get started.
Step 46
- Grab the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail and gently lift up that little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 47
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 48
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom left corner of the back case to gently loosen the SIM card tray’s adhesive—give it about thirty seconds to do its magic.
Tools Used
Step 49
If the SIM card reader is being stubborn and won’t budge, try warming it up a bit more and give it another go.
- Gently slide your opening tool under the bottom edge of the SIM card reader, applying slow and steady pressure to carefully lift it up.
Step 50
- Now it’s time to put your device back together—just retrace your steps and you’ll be golden!
- Got some e-waste? Don’t toss it; take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. They’ll know what to do!
- If things didn’t quite go as planned, no worries! Give some troubleshooting a shot or check in with our iPad 7 Answers community for a little extra support.
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