iPad 8 Button Control Cable Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 57 Steps
Remember to keep it safe! Make sure to let that battery drop below 25% before diving into your iPad disassembly.
Watch out for any bends or breaks!
Ready to tackle that button control cable replacement in your iPad 8 Wi-Fi? Awesome! Just a heads up, this guide is specifically for the Wi-Fi model—if you have the LTE version, just click here. The button control cable is your go-to for the lock button and volume buttons, all rolled into one. If any of those buttons start acting up, it’s time to replace the whole cable. Safety first! Make sure your battery is below 25% before diving in to minimize fire risks if the battery gets a little too friendly during the repair. And if your battery looks a bit swollen, take extra precautions. When isolating the battery with a battery blocker, be super gentle; those battery contacts can easily bend or break, leading to some serious damage. If you decide to skip the battery isolation (we won’t judge), just steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary—like when you’re removing screws—to avoid any accidental short circuits. A quick note: some of the photos here might come from a different model and may look a tad different, but don’t worry, they won’t mess with the steps you need to follow!
Step 1
– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of your device.
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Step 2
– As you chill and let the adhesive do its thing, keep an eye out for these areas that are a bit touchy when it comes to prying:
Step 3
In the next three steps, we’ll show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, our nifty little tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not rocking the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip down three steps for a different approach.
– Give the blue handle a little tug backwards to free up the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
– Find a solid object to place beneath your iPad, ensuring it’s sitting nice and level between those trusty suction cups.
– Center those suction cups right along the middle of the left side—one up top, one down below.
– Get a good grip on the Anti-Clamp’s base, then press down firmly on the top cup to activate the suction.
Step 4
– Go ahead and give that blue handle a little nudge forward to secure the arms in place.
– Now, twist that handle to the right a full 360 degrees or until you see those cups starting to stretch.
– Remember to keep those suction cups perfectly in line. If they start drifting apart, just give them a little wiggle and get those arms back on track.
Step 5
– Give the adhesive a minute to loosen up and create a little gap for you.
– If the screen isn’t warming up fast enough, feel free to reach for a hair dryer and warm up the left edge of your iPad.
– Slide in an opening pick beneath the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made enough space for you.
– Feel like taking a shortcut? Skip ahead to the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is looking like a spider web, don’t fret! Slapping on a layer of clear packing tape can help the suction cup stick like glue. If you’re feeling a bit bolder, you might try some strong tape instead of the suction cup. And if things get really tricky, a little dab of superglue can bond that suction cup right to the cracked screen. You’ve got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– First things first, let’s warm up that screen! Once it’s nice and toasty to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
– Now, gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You got this!
– Time to slide in an opening pick! Carefully insert it into the gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame.
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Step 7
No need to stress if you spot that opening pick peeking through the digitizer —just give it a gentle tug and pull it out. Your LCD screen should be just fine, but watch out for that pesky adhesive that might stick around for a bit of extra cleaning.
– Time to rock and roll! Pop in another opening pick right into that gap you just made.
– Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner of your device to work that adhesive loose.
– Keep that pick snug in the bottom-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t attempt a sneaky re-seal.
Step 8
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separating like a pro!
Step 9
– Gently glide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your device to break that adhesive’s hold.
– Keep that pick in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 10
– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the top edge of your device.
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Step 11
– Gently glide the pick around the top-left corner of your device to loosen that stubborn adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 12
Steer clear of sliding the pick over the front camera; you wouldn’t want to put a scratch on that lens! Follow these steps to keep everything safe and sound.
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to pause just shy of the front camera. You’re doing great!
Step 13
– Gently wiggle the pick out until just the tip rests snugly between the digitizer and the frame.
– Smoothly slide the pick above the front camera to gracefully detach the adhesive.
– Keep the pick positioned near the right side of the front camera as you proceed.
Step 14
– Pop in the pick and gently glide it towards the upper-right corner of the device to neatly detach the top adhesive.
– Keep the pick snug in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from sealing back up.
Step 15
– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.
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Step 16
– Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 17
Hey there! When you’re on the repair journey for your device, remember to locate those sneaky display cables about halfway from the bottom of your iPad. Keep sliding until you’re about three inches from the bottom. You’re doing great!
– Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it right into the heart of the iPad’s right edge.
Step 18
– Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You’re doing great!
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Step 19
– Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break that adhesive seal like a pro.
– Keep the pick snug in the bottom-left corner while you gear up for the next step.
Step 20
– Get ready to rock ‘n’ roll by inserting a fresh opening pick right into that gap you just made on the bottom edge of the iPad.
– Glide that pick smoothly over the antenna, making sure to stop right before you hit the home button.
– Give the pick a friendly high five to the left of the home button before you move on to the next groove.
Step 21
Be careful not to insert the pick more than 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound.
– Gently slide your trusty opening pick into that little gap you just made. You’ve got this!
– Now, glide that pick under the home button and ease it towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame—you’re doing great!
Step 22
– Stick the pick back in and smoothly slide it towards the home button to completely free up the bottom sticky stuff.
– Keep the pick chillin’ to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Patience is your best friend here—make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and use a pick to carefully separate it all. And hey, if things get tricky, don’t hesitate to reheat and give it another go!
If you encounter some tough resistance, try reheating the edges and slowly glide through with an opening pick.
– Give those two opening picks a twist at the left corners of your iPad, and watch it lift the digitizer slightly. It’s like separating the last of the adhesive in the process, easy peasy!
Step 25
– Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help loosen the adhesive on the right edge of the iPad.
Step 26
– While gently holding the digitizer in place, carefully slide an opening pick between the two display cables to peel away the last bit of adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 27
– Once you’ve successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to your iPad. Easy peasy!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards for a solid hold.
– Keep an eye on those display cables while you’re reassembling your device. Make sure they’re neatly tucked under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. You’ve got this!
Step 28
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those four 4.3 mm-long screws holding the LCD to the frame. You’ve got this!
– As you tackle this repair, keep an eye on each screw and remember where it belongs. This way, your device will stay happy and healthy!
Step 29
Hold your horses! We’re not ready to say goodbye to the LCD just yet—it’s still happily hooked up by a flex cable.
– Grab a spudger and gently wiggle out the LCD just enough to snag it with your fingers, kind of like catching a flying sandwich.
– Give the LCD a little flip like you’re turning the page of a suspenseful novel, but instead of near the camera, lift from the top end and twist it over to the home button side of the frame.
– Find a cozy spot for the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free surface so it can stretch out and relax, giving you easy access to those fancy display cables.
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Step 30
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector snugly against the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Check out these photos to get a peek at the battery connector hiding beneath the logic board. They’re your handy reference as you carefully disconnect the battery!
Take note of those clever cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are stuck down, you’ll want to slide something slim and flexible between the contact points to safely detach the battery. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 32
Watch out when you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker! Those battery contacts can be a bit delicate and might bend or break, leading to some serious damage. Take it easy and be gentle!
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
– Get that battery blocker moving by sliding it under the logic board’s battery connector with a cool, 35 degree angle vibe.
– Keep the battery blocker party going while you do your thing.
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Step 33
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three 1.4 mm-long screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers, and gently lift off the display cable bracket. You’ve got this!
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Step 35
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up the LCD cable press connector. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to reattach those press connectors, just line them up like a pro and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Easy peasy!
– Remember, no need to press down in the middle! If things get a little wobbly, the pins might bend, and we definitely don’t want that. Keep it steady!
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Step 36
– Gently take out the LCD and place it facing downwards on a spotless, soft, and lint-free surface.
Step 37
– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently remove the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Step 38
– Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail and gently lift that tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 39
– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.
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Step 40
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up to disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently pry up the vibration isolator hanging out in the bottom-right corner of your device.
– Now, say goodbye to the vibration isolator and remove it gently.
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Step 42
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You’ve got this!
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Step 43
– Start by gently taking off the front panel assembly. You’ve got this!
– If you’re dealing with pesky ‘ghost’ or ‘phantom’ touch issues on your new display, don’t worry! A quick fix is to add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Good news—iFixit replacement digitizers come with the right insulation, so you probably won’t need to add any tape.
– As you gear up for reassembly, make sure to remove any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth to clean those glued areas. This step is key for prepping your iPad for fresh adhesive and ensuring a solid bond.
– Before you wrap things up, test out your iPad’s functions and apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display, following our display adhesive application guide. Then, seal it up and enjoy your freshly repaired device!
Step 44
– Get ready to rock and roll by carefully removing any tape that’s covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
Step 45
– Gently lift the small, hinged locking flap on the button control cable ZIF connector using the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. You’ve got this!
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Step 46
– Grab hold of your trusty pair of tweezers and gently remove the button control cable in one smooth motion from the ZIF connector. Remember, a little finesse goes a long way in this repair journey!
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Step 47
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those two 2.3 mm-long screws that are holding the volume button bracket snugly in place on the rear case. Let’s do this!
Step 48
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out those two 2.3 mm-long screws holding the lock button bracket in place. You’ve got this!
Step 49
– Gently slide the tip of a spudger between the back cover and the bottom of the volume button bracket to pop it loose.
– Carefully take out the volume button bracket.
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Step 50
– Gently nudge those volume buttons back into place using the flat end of a spudger. You’re doing great!
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Step 51
– Gently slide an opening pick in between the button control cable and the rear case, just like a pro.
– Carefully glide that pick upwards towards the lock button to break the adhesive holding the button control cable to the rear case. You’re doing great!
Step 52
– Go ahead and unplug that button control cable.
Step 53
– Give the button control cable a cozy treatment by warming it up with an iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Step 54
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and give the upper volume button a gentle squeeze.
– Slide an opening pick right between the volume control cable and that upper volume button.
– Carefully peel away the volume control cable from the upper volume button like it’s a sticker!
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Step 55
– Give that volume control cable a clean break from the lower volume button just like you did before!
Step 56
– Grab that lock button bracket with a trusty pair of tweezers.
– Slide a halberd spudger or an opening pick right between the lock button bracket and the button control cable—let’s make some space!
– Gently peel the button control cable away from those pegs on the lock button bracket. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to use some Tesa tape to snugly attach those volume buttons and the lock button bracket back to the button control cable.
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Step 57
– Just the button control cable is left to tackle!
