iPad 8 LTE Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 119 Steps
To keep things safe and sound, make sure to drain that battery to below 25% before diving into disassembling your iPad. It's a little precaution that goes a long way!
Ready to swap out the battery in your iPad 8 LTE? You’re in the right place! Just a heads up: this guide is for the LTE version only, so if you're rocking the Wi-Fi version, check out the other guide. First thing’s first—safety! Make sure the battery is under 25% before diving in. This lowers the risk of fire if things go sideways. If your battery's a little puffy, take extra care. When you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker, go slow! The contacts can be fragile, and you definitely don’t want to bend or break them. If you're feeling brave and decide not to isolate the battery, avoid using metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like when you’re unscrewing things) to avoid damaging your battery or the delicate components. Some of the photos in this guide are from a different model, but don’t worry—nothing that’ll mess with the steps. If this feels like too much, no worries! You can always schedule a repair for expert help.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As the adhesive is softening up, keep in mind these tricky spots where prying can cause trouble:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make prying open your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for another way to get things open.
For a full breakdown on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, try adding some tape to create a bit more traction.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
- Set an object under your iPad so it sits evenly between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create suction.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a smooth 360-degree clockwise turn, or keep going until you feel the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before moving on.
Step 5
Take it slow! Don't twist more than a half turn at a time, and give it a minute between each. Let the Anti-Clamp do its thing and work its magic while you chill.
Need the full scoop on how to use a hair dryer for repairs? We’ve got you covered with this easy-to-follow guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough space, don’t sweat it! Just add a little more heat and twist the handle clockwise for a half-turn to get that perfect gap.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little opening gap.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try gently heating the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is shattered to bits, slap on a layer of clear packing tape to give that suction cup something to grip onto. No suction cup? No problem! You can use some super strong tape instead. And if you’re feeling bold, supergluing the suction cup right onto the cracked screen works too.
- Once the screen feels pleasantly warm, grab a suction handle and stick it onto the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently pull up on the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made between the digitizer and the frame.
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Step 7
If you see the opening pick poking through the digitizer, no stress—just gently pull it out. The LCD should be safe, but leaving adhesive behind can make things messy to clean up later.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged there so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently 'rolling' it along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that sticky stuff away.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the top edge of your device.
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Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera – we definitely don't want to mess with that lens! Follow these steps to keep it safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, stopping just shy of the front camera to keep things safe and sound.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick so that only the tip is sitting comfortably between the digitizer and the frame. A little goes a long way!
- Slide the pick above the front camera, giving the adhesive a little nudge to separate. Just a smooth, steady motion.
- Keep the pick resting near the right side of the front camera for now, and get ready to move on to the next step!
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the top-right corner to fully loosen the adhesive holding that area.
- Keep the pick lodged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right side of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 16
- Give that pick a little spin around the top-right corner of your device to break free the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 17
The display cables hang out around the middle of the iPad. Ease up once you're about three inches from the bottom – no need to go too deep.
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slide it into the middle of the iPad's right edge like you're unzipping a cozy sleeping bag. Nice and smooth!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the bottom edge of your device for about two minutes. Give it some time to work its magic!
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Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner to keep that antenna safe and sound.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick all the way to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that adhesive.
- Keep the pick nestled in the corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Gently slide the pick towards the home button, but don’t go the other way – you don’t want to mess up that antenna!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this section again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Slide a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently glide the pick across the antenna, stopping right before you hit the home button.
- Keep the pick resting just to the left of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Careful now—pop the pick in no more than 1 mm deep to keep that right antenna safe and sound.
- Pop an opening pick into the little gap you just made.
- Carefully slide the pick under the home button heading toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is sneaking between the digitizer and frame.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently towards the home button—don't go the other way, or you might accidentally mess with the antenna. Trust us, you don’t want to cause any unnecessary drama here!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner. Easy fix!
- Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it towards the home button to fully loosen that bottom adhesive.
- Let the pick chill just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes—think of it as a little spa moment for your gadget before the next step.
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Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and gently work your pick to separate all that sticky goodness. If you need to pause for a reheat, don’t hesitate! You've got this!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges a little more heat and glide along with your trusty opening pick.
- Give those opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad! This will help you gently lift the digitizer just enough to break free the last bit of adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to help loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, making the separation smoother.
Step 26
- Keep the digitizer steady while you gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break apart the last bit of adhesive.
Step 27
- After you've successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, gently swing the digitizer open like a book and lay it down parallel to your iPad. Easy peasy!
- As you put everything back together, don't forget to tidy up! Use some isopropyl alcohol to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and if you're reusing the digitizer, give it a little love too. To stick it all back together, our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards are your best pals.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while you're reassembling your device. Make sure they're neatly tucked under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. You're doing great!
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just your trusty fingers, and gently peel away any tape that's hiding the LCD screws. You've got this!
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Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get to work! Start by removing those four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. You've got this!
Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame.
- Slide a spudger into the gap between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Gently pry with the spudger to break that stubborn adhesive free.
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Step 31
- Do the same thing you just did, but now tackle the top-left corner of the LCD. You got this!
Step 32
Don't try to yank the LCD off just yet – it's still hanging on by a flex cable. Keep it cool and steady, and we'll get there in a few steps.
- Take the flat end of your spudger and gently wiggle it under the LCD to pop it out just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Flip the LCD over like you're turning a page in a book—lift near the camera and carefully fold it over toward the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to give yourself some room to access those display cables.
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Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector onto the logic board. Steady hands, you got this!
Step 34
Check out these photos for a sneak peek at the battery connector hiding under the logic board. Use them as your trusty guide while you carefully disconnect the battery!
You'll notice those clever cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are firmly glued down, you'll want to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to make that battery disconnection happen smoothly.
Step 35
Handle the battery blocker with care! The contacts are fragile and can bend or snap easily, which could lead to some serious, irreversible damage. Just take your time and be gentle—patience is key!
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up like a champ!
Avoid shoving that battery blocker under the connector with too much oomph. If it's giving you a hard time getting under the logic board, a playing card can be your trusty sidekick to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board without any hiccups. Once it's in, it should be chillin' at about a 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a 35-degree angle—think of it as giving the connector a gentle nudge in the right direction.
- Keep the battery blocker in place as you continue working—like holding the door open for your next step.
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Step 36
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and go ahead and unscrew the three 1.4 mm-long screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Easy does it!
Step 37
- Grab those tweezers or use your fingers to gently pop off the display cable bracket. You've got this!
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Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the LCD cable press connector to pry it up and disconnect.
- When you're ready to reattach the connector, line it up carefully and press down one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side.
- Avoid pressing the middle too hard—if the connector is off-center, you might bend the pins, and that's a permanent bummer.
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Step 39
- Carefully lift the LCD off completely and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.
Step 40
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s guarding the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable’s ZIF connector to get things moving.
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Step 42
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!
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Step 43
To keep your iPad safe and sound, make sure to pry gently on the connectors themselves and steer clear of the socket on the logic board. You're doing great!
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently pry up and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You're doing great!
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Step 44
Careful now—don’t go poking or tearing the home button ribbon cable!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up that vibration isolator hanging out below the SIM card reader. It’s time for it to come out and play!
- Now, go ahead and pull out the vibration isolator. You’re doing great!
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Step 45
A light dab of adhesive is holding the cable in place.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the rear case. You've got this!
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Step 46
Grab your trusty opening pick and slice through any leftover adhesive that might still be holding the front panel assembly to the frame. Let's free that panel!
Watch out! If those areas of the digitizer aren't properly insulated, they might get a little too cozy with other components, leading to some touch input hiccups. Let's keep it grounded!
The insulation is a sneaky little thing—it's not visible to the naked eye and is quite different from those foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads. Keep an eye out for it!
- First up, let's pop off that front panel assembly. Easy peasy!
- If your new display is throwing a tantrum with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch inputs, don’t sweat it! Just grab some super thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, and stick it to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. Most replacement digitizers come prepped with the right insulation, so you shouldn't need to fuss with any extra tape.
- Now, during reassembly, make sure to clear off any leftover adhesive from your iPad. Give those glued areas a good scrub with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This little prep work is key to making sure your fresh adhesive sticks like it should.
- Before sealing everything back up, give your iPad’s functions a quick test and apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy display adhesive application guide. You got this!
Step 47
- Grab a SIM eject tool, a tiny bit, or even a straightened paper clip and pop it into the SIM card tray hole.
- Give it a firm press to make the SIM card tray pop right out.
Step 48
- Gently pop out the SIM card tray from your iPad to get started.
Step 49
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the top component bracket with care.
Step 50
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently take out the five screws holding the upper component bracket in place:
- Three screws, each 1.4 mm long
- Two screws, each 1.9 mm long
Step 51
You might need to gently peel away the upper component bracket from some tape that's hugging it to the logic board. No worries, just take your time and it'll come off smoothly!
- Gently use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up the upper component bracket just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Carefully lift and remove the upper component bracket.
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Step 52
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the front camera cable press connector. With a little finesse, pry it up to disconnect it. You're doing great!
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Step 53
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the front camera out of its cozy little spot until you can give it a friendly pinch with your fingers.
- Next, use that spudger to peel away the adhesive foam pad that's been hugging the front camera.
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Step 54
- Grab your tweezers and gently latch onto the front camera, then twist it clockwise to guide the cable smoothly through its frame slot.
- Now, carefully take out the front camera.
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Step 55
- Gently pry up the headphone jack connector straight up using the flat end of a spudger to disconnect it.
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Step 56
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift the headphone jack off the logic board, then give the cable a little nudge to set it back in place.
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Step 57
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's tackle those three little screws, each measuring 1.4 mm, that are holding the cellular antennas snugly to the rear case. You've got this!
Step 58
- Grab the pointy end of your spudger and gently pry up the right cellular antenna coaxial cable right next to the connector to disconnect it.
- Next up, unplug the left antenna cable with a smooth move.
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Step 59
Hold onto the antenna cable itself—grabbing the connector is a no-go since it can snap easily. Treat those coaxial cables with care!
- Gently lift the left cellular antenna coaxial cable away from the back of the case.
Step 60
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift straight up on those press connectors to unplug both cellular antennas like a pro.
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Step 61
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently lift the rear camera’s press connector straight up to unplug it. Easy does it!
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Step 62
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the microphone assembly straight up from the press connector. You've got this!
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Step 63
- Carefully peel back any tape that's hiding the button control cable ZIF connector.
Step 64
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to flip up the tiny, hinged locking flap on the button control cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 65
Hold onto the cable using the pull tab—leave the cable itself alone!
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that button control cable right out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 66
- Gently peel away any tape that's covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector. Take your time, no rush!
Step 67
- Grab your trusty spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently lift that little hinged locking flap on the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 68
Hold onto the pull tab when unplugging the cable—resist the urge to tug the cable itself!
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the Smart Cover sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector. No rush, just a steady hand!
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Step 69
- Gently use a spudger or an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail, to lift the little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 70
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector—easy does it!
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Step 71
- Slide the sharp end of a spudger under the right antenna cable and give it a gentle lift to disconnect it. You're doing great!
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Step 72
When you're handling the antenna cable, make sure you're gripping the cable itself, not the connector. Pulling by the connector can cause it to snap, and we definitely don't want that!
- Gently lift the right antenna cable up like you're giving it a little wave!
Step 73
- Gently slide the pointed end of your spudger under the left antenna cable. Give it a little lift to disconnect it, no need to force it!
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Step 74
- Gently lift the left antenna cable off the rear case, sliding along the bottom edge of the iPad.
Step 75
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wiggle the flat end to lift up the vibration isolator located in the bottom left corner of the iPad. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Hey, time to come out!'
- Once it's up, let your tweezers do the magic and carefully pull out the vibration isolator. You're on the right track!
Step 76
- Grab a pair of tweezers or use your fingernail to gently lift up the tape covering the speaker connectors. Easy peasy!
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Step 77
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny locking flap on both the left and right speaker cable ZIF connectors. Take your time, it’s a small step but totally necessary!
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Step 78
- Grab those tweezers and gently wiggle out the left and right speaker cables from their cozy ZIF connectors. You've got this!
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Step 79
- Grab the pointed end of your spudger and carefully pry up the Smart Connector coaxial cable right next to the connector to disconnect it without a fuss.
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Step 80
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the Smart Connector cable connector straight up to disconnect it.
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Step 81
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape holding the Smart Connector cables to the back case. Easy does it!
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Step 82
- Gently peel the Smart Connector cables off the rear case. Take your time—no need to rush, just a smooth pull will do!
Step 83
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom left corner of the back case to gently loosen the SIM card tray's adhesive for about thirty seconds.
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Step 84
If the SIM card reader is being stubborn, try warming it up a bit more and give it another go.
- Gently use an opening tool to lift the bottom edge of the SIM card reader. Take your time and apply a steady force—you've got this!
Step 85
- Carefully take out the SIM card reader.
Step 86
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four screws holding the charging port in place:
- Two 2.2 mm-long screws
- Two 3.2 mm-long screws
Step 87
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad, holding each spot for about thirty seconds to loosen things up.
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Step 88
- Gently slide an opening pick under the charging port cable, right by the charging port, and work your way towards the logic board to slice through the adhesive. Nice and easy – you're doing great!
Step 89
- Gently wiggle the charging port free from its cozy spot in the frame.
Step 90
- Slide an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and gently push it toward the board to slice through the adhesive holding it to the rear case.
- Keep that opening pick in place to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 92
Twisting or bending the logic board is a no-go—it can cause lasting damage. If the adhesive is being stubborn, just warm it up a bit more and give it another shot.
If your logic board is being stubborn, grab an opening pick and slide it under the bottom edge. This will help slice through the adhesive and loosen things up. If it still won’t budge, don’t stress—you’ve got this! And if you need a hand, just schedule a repair.
- Place an opening tool carefully near the bottom of the logic board. Gently work it under the board, applying a steady, controlled force to lift it away from the rear case. Patience is key—take your time, and you'll get it!
Step 93
Be extra careful when using the tool near the battery—if you puncture or bend it, you might unleash some dangerous chemicals or even start a fire. Stay safe and take it slow!
- Slide an opening tool gently into the middle of the logic board and carefully lift it up with a steady hand to separate it from the rear case.
Step 94
- Slide an opening tool in near the top of the logic board and gently pry it up with a slow and steady motion to separate it from the rear case.
Step 95
- Slide an opening tool into the center of the logic board and gently lift it up until you can hold it comfortably with your fingers.
Step 96
- Grab a halberd spudger or an opening pick and gently work your way through any stubborn adhesive still holding the logic board in place. A little patience goes a long way here!
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Step 97
- First things first, let's get that logic board out of there! It's time for a little extraction.
- When you're putting things back together, double-check that no pesky ribbon cables are caught under the logic board before you secure it down with glue.
- And before you seal the deal, make sure to wipe off any leftover adhesive using some high-strength isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher). Then, grab some Tesa tape to keep that Logic Board snugly attached to the chassis!
Step 98
Before you pop out the battery, make sure to protect the other parts in the rear case. A little tape will go a long way!
Run your finger along the bottom of the tape to make sure it’s sealed tight and ready to go.
- Grab a strip of painter's tape or some trusty Scotch tape, and cut it to match the width of your iPad.
- Now, take that tape and firmly press the bottom edge onto the rear case just above the speakers and bottom antennas.
- Finally, secure the top edge of the tape strip over the bottom components to keep those sneaky cables from interfering with your battery removal.
Step 99
- Now, let's give those upper components the same taping treatment. Keep it smooth and steady, and you'll be cruising through this step in no time!
Step 100
iFixit adhesive remover has acetone in it, which can be a bit pesky for your skin and eyes. So, keep those peepers and hands safe while you work your magic!
- Safety first! Pop on some eye protection before you dive into handling that adhesive remover.
- Contacts off! Make sure to protect those peepers with some eye gear if you're rocking lenses.
- We've got you covered with gloves in your kit. If you're worried about skin irritation, now’s the time to slip them on.
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Step 101
Give the bottle cap a twist to loosen or remove it before snipping the applicator tip.
Once done, twist the cap back on tight before moving on to the next step.
Pop that seal to let the pressure settle before you snip the applicator tip. Skipping this could lead to a surprise spray of adhesive remover when you cut it open!
Cutting near the narrow end gives you better control, letting you apply the adhesive remover in smaller, more manageable amounts.
- Start by carefully peeling off the black rubber stopper from your adhesive remover bottle. A gentle tug should do the trick!
- Next, grab your trusty scissors and snip off the sealed tip of the applicator. Be precise, but don't stress—it’s just a quick trim!
Step 102
- The red boxes highlight where those sticky strips are tucked away, holding the battery snugly against the back case.
Step 103
- Gently apply a few drops of adhesive remover or some strong isopropyl alcohol along the left edge of the battery. This will help loosen things up so you can proceed with the next step. Take it slow and steady!
Step 104
- Drop a few dabs of adhesive remover or some potent isopropyl alcohol right along the bottom edge of the battery. Let’s get that sticky situation sorted out!
Step 105
- Squeeze a couple of drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol right between the battery cells. This will help loosen things up, so you can keep moving forward with the repair!
Step 106
- Drop a few splashes of adhesive remover or high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the right edge of the battery. This will help loosen things up for the next step.
Step 107
- Drop a few beads of adhesive remover or some high-strength isopropyl alcohol right along the top edge of the battery. It's like giving your device a little spa treatment before we get to the real work!
Step 108
Be careful not to poke or twist the battery with your tool—doing so could lead to a leaky situation or even a mini-explosion! Let's keep things safe and sound.
Having a hard time getting that battery to budge? No worries! Just add a bit more adhesive remover or warm up the back case with a heated iOpener to loosen things up.
- Slide a plastic card gently into the bottom right corner of the battery to get things moving.
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Step 109
- Slide the plastic card carefully under the right edge, aiming for the center.
- Push the plastic card as deep as you can under the battery to gently separate it from the adhesive.
- Remove the plastic card and keep it aside.
Step 110
- Slide that trusty plastic card underneath the battery connector and push it in as far as it will go. You're doing great!
- Keep that plastic card right where it is. It'll be your little helper for a moment!
Step 111
- Slide another plastic card above the battery connector, pushing it in as far as it will comfortably go.
Step 112
- Gently slide a plastic card under the bottom edge of the battery, making sure it goes right under the battery connector. Be careful not to force it!
Step 113
- Gently slide that trusty plastic card along the bottom edge of the battery to break free the adhesive strip holding it in place. You've got this!
- When you hit the left corner at the bottom edge, slide the plastic card in as deep as it can go. Keep going; you're doing great!
Step 114
Having a tough time getting that battery loose? No worries! Just add a bit more adhesive remover, or give it a gentle nudge with a warmed-up iOpener on the back case.
- Gently slide the plastic card beneath the battery connector, just above it, and wiggle it in under the upper edge of the battery.
- Now, move the plastic card along the top edge of the battery to break through the adhesive strip.
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Step 115
- As you approach the upper left corner, slide that trusty plastic card in as deep as it'll go!
Step 116
- Slide the plastic card gently under the upper left corner of the battery.
- Carefully move the plastic card downwards towards the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Once you reach the center of the battery, push the card as deep as it will go to break through the adhesive strip in the middle.
Step 117
- Slip that plastic card gently under the bottom left corner of the battery.
- Now, glide the card upwards towards the top of your iPad like you're on a smooth, techy ride!
Step 118
- Once you hit the center edge, slide that plastic card in as deep as it’ll go to slice through the middle adhesive strip.
Step 119
Once the battery is out, it's time to let it go—reusing it could cause a safety issue. Get yourself a fresh battery to keep things running smoothly.
If you're still having trouble getting that battery out, just keep at it and give the battery adhesive another good cut! You've got this!
- Time to put everything back together! Just follow the steps you took in reverse order, and your device will be good to go.
- Don't forget to give your new battery a little TLC—calibrate it after you finish, and you'll be running smoothly.
- Got some old tech lying around? Take it to a certified recycler like R2 or e-Stewards and make sure it’s disposed of responsibly.
- Did something not go quite as planned? No worries, just try some basic troubleshooting. Or, if you're feeling stuck, feel free to schedule a repair and we'll help you out.
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