iPad 8 LTE Cellular Antennas Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 61 Steps
Hey, let's swap out those cellular antennas on your iPad 8 LTE with this guide—easy peasy! Just a heads up: this one's for the LTE model only. If you've got the Wi-Fi version, hit up that link right there. Take it slow when you're using a battery blocker to isolate the battery; those contacts are super delicate and can get bent or busted, leading to permanent ouchies. Skip the isolation? No problem, but steer clear of metal tools unless you're dealing with screws to dodge any battery shorts that could fry your electronics. Oh, and some pics here might be from a different iPad model with tiny differences, but don't sweat it—they won't mess up the steps.
Step 1
- Grab your iOpener, heat it up, and press it against the left edge of the device for a solid two minutes.
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Step 2
- As the adhesive softens up, here's a quick note on these sensitive spots to watch when prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show off the Anti-Clamp, our handy tool that smooths out the opening process. If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, just jump ahead three steps for another way to do it.
For the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If the iPad's surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to make it stickier.
- Yank that blue handle back to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Prop your iPad up with an object so it sits level between the suction cups.
- Line up the suction cups in the middle of the left edge—one on top, one on the bottom.
- Hold the Anti-Clamp's bottom steady and press firmly on the top cup to create suction.
Step 4
- Grab that blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place. You've got this!
- Twist the handle clockwise for a full 360 degrees, or keep going until those suction cups start to stretch. Don't worry, it's all part of the magic!
- Keep those suction cups lined up like best friends at a concert. If they start to get out of sync, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms to keep everything looking sharp.
Step 5
Take it easy – don’t twist more than a half turn at a time. Give it a minute between each turn and let the Anti-Clamp and some time do their thing. Patience is key!
For a full breakdown on how to use a hair dryer, head over to this guide and check it out.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't quite creating enough of a gap, no worries—just give it a bit more heat and rotate the handle clockwise about half a turn.
- Hang tight for a minute—let that adhesive loosen up and create a nice gap.
- If the screen's not heating up enough, grab a hair dryer and zap the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp makes a good gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is looking like a shattered disco ball, try sticking a layer of clear packing tape over it to give your suction cup something to grab onto. If you're feeling fancy, super strong tape can stand in for the suction cup too. And hey, if you're really stuck, a little superglue between the suction cup and screen might just do the trick.
- After the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle on the left edge, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently pull up with the suction handle to make a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap to start loosening things up.
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Step 7
No big deal if you spot the opening pick through the digitizer—just slide it out. The LCD screen should stay intact, but you might leave some stubborn adhesive behind that could be a hassle to clean up.
- Slide that second opening pick into the gap you just opened up.
- Ease the pick down toward the bottom-left corner of the device to break up the adhesive.
- Leave the pick chilling in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets snagged in the adhesive, just roll it smoothly along the side of the iPad to keep loosening things up.
Step 9
- Slide that first opening pick up toward the top-left corner of the device to break free from the adhesive.
- Keep the pick parked in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from re-sticking.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a comfy two-minute rest on the top edge of your device. Let the heat do its thing—this will make the next steps a breeze!
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Step 11
- Gently spin the pick around the top-left corner of the device to peel away the adhesive. Take it slow – we want to make sure everything stays in one piece!
Step 12
Be careful when sliding the pick near the front camera lens—you don't want to accidentally damage it. We'll show you how to avoid that in the next steps!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, making sure to stop just before you hit the front camera. Careful, it's a tight squeeze up there!
Step 13
- Ease the pick out gently until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide it smoothly above the front camera to loosen up that adhesive.
- Park the pick near the right side of the front camera before we keep going.
Step 14
- Take your pick and slide it gently towards the top-right corner of your device. This will help you fully separate the top adhesive.
- Leave the pick where it is in the top-right corner to keep the adhesive from re-sealing. Nice and steady!
Step 15
- Grab your iOpener and warm it up. Now, gently place it on the right edge of your device for about two minutes. Let it do its magic!
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Step 16
- Spin that pick gently around the top-right corner to peel away the adhesive – nice work!
Step 17
The display cables are chilling about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Hit pause on that slide once you're three inches from the bottom edge.
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right to the middle of your iPad's right edge. Keep it smooth!
Step 18
- Get your iOpener warmed up and give the bottom edge of the device a nice, relaxing two-minute hug.
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Step 19
Hey, don't spin that pick all the way around the corner—it might scratch the antenna!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive.
- Leave the pick right there in the corner before you jump to the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick straight towards the home button—steer clear of going the other way, or you could nick the antenna!
If you gotta slide that pick over this spot again, just yank it out and slot it back in at the bottom-left corner—easy peasy!
- Slip a fresh opening pick into that gap you just opened on the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide the pick across the antenna, but pause just before hitting the home button.
- Let the pick hang out to the left of the home button while you move on.
Step 21
Ease that pick in gently, up to 1 mm only, to keep the right antenna happy and intact.
- Pop that opening pick into the gap you've created.
- Slide the pick under the home button, aiming for the bottom-right corner, and keep just the tip tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Hey, slide that pick right towards the home button—skip going the other way, or you might mess up the antenna!
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it towards the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.
- Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and gently apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy on this one—go slow, get that adhesive nice and melty, and use your pick to peel off every bit. No worries if you need to pause and heat it up again!
If you run into some serious resistance, give those edges another quick reheat and ease your opening pick along the way.
- Give those opening picks a gentle twist on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer just a tad, breaking free the last of the adhesive. Nice and easy!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to keep separating that adhesive along the right side of your iPad.
Step 26
- Hold the digitizer steady and slide your opening pick between those two display cables to peel off the last of the adhesive—nice and easy!
Step 27
- With all that adhesive loosened up, flip open the digitizer like you're cracking a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When you're putting everything back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—with isopropyl alcohol. Swap in fresh adhesive using our strips or pre-cut cards.
- Watch those display cables during reassembly—make sure they're folded neatly under the LCD screen to keep things safe and sound.
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to peel off any tape that's hiding the LCD screws – easy peasy!
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Step 29
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew those four 4.3 mm screws keeping the LCD screen snug in place.
Step 30
The screen's just lightly stuck to the frame with some adhesive.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide it between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Now, apply a little pressure and work the spudger to slowly break the adhesive seal. Take your time; no rush!
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Step 31
- Now, let's give the top-left corner of the LCD the same treatment—repeat the previous step!
Step 32
Don't go all the way with removing the LCD just yet – it's still holding on with a flex cable, so take it easy!
- Grab the flat edge of your spudger and give the LCD a gentle nudge out of its comfy recess—just enough to snag it with your fingers like a pro.
- Flip that LCD like you're turning a page in your favorite novel, lifting up near the camera and swinging it over to the home button side of the frame.
- Pop the LCD down on a spotless, soft, and lint-free surface to keep things tidy while you tackle those display cables.
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Step 33
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the 2.3 mm screw that secures the battery connector to the logic board.
Step 34
Check out these photos showing the battery connector beneath the logic board. Keep them handy as a reference while you carefully disconnect the battery.
You’ll notice those clever little cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the board and the battery are glued down, you’ll want to slide something thin and flexible in between to gently disconnect them. Take your time, and if you're not sure, just schedule a repair to get some pro help!
Step 35
Watch out when using the battery blocker to isolate the battery. Those battery contacts are delicate – bend or break them, and you're looking at some serious, irreversible damage. Handle with care!
Make sure the battery blocker’s logo is facing up—it's the right way to go!
Be gentle when sliding the battery blocker under the connector. If it’s giving you trouble, grab a playing card to help disconnect the battery—sometimes a little extra finesse is all it takes.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board smoothly, without any resistance. Once it’s in, it should rest at a comfy 15-degree angle—just like it’s meant to.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker in place as you keep working.
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Step 36
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently remove those three 1.4 mm screws holding the display cable bracket.
Step 37
- Grab your tweezers or use your fingers to carefully remove that display cable bracket.
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Step 38
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that LCD cable connector.
- When you're ready to reattach this kind of connector, line it up carefully and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then tackle the other side the same way.
- Just a heads up: avoid pressing in the middle. If things get misaligned, those pins could bend and cause some serious, permanent damage.
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Step 39
- Carefully lift out the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free cloth to keep things safe and sound.
Step 40
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully peel off the tape that's covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Take your time and stay steady, you’ve got this!
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, some opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently lift that tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable's ZIF connector.
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Step 42
- Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Nice and steady wins the race!
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Step 43
Hey, keep your iPad in top shape by prying only on the connectors, not the socket on the logic board—smart moves only!
- Grab the flat side of your spudger and carefully lift to disconnect those two digitizer cable connectors – you've got this!
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Step 44
Be gentle with that home button ribbon cable—give it some space! You don’t want to risk a puncture or tear. Handle with care!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently wiggle it under the vibration isolator just below the SIM card reader. A little pry, and it’ll pop right up!
- Now, just remove the vibration isolator. Easy peasy!
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Step 45
The cable's held in place with a little bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the home button cable off the rear case. Take your time, there's no rush!
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Step 46
Grab an opening pick and gently slide it under the edges to separate any stubborn adhesive still holding the front panel to the frame.
Without the right insulation, parts of the digitizer might short against other components, leading to funky touch responses.
This insulation is sneaky—it’s invisible to the eye and isn’t the same as the foam dust strips you see on lots of iPads.
- Let's kick things off by carefully removing the front panel assembly.
- If your new display starts giving you those pesky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch vibes, don't worry—fix it by slapping on a super thin insulating tape, like Kapton tape, to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel. (Our replacement digitizers usually come pre-insulated, so you probably won't need to add any tape.)
- During reassembly, before sliding in the display, peel off any leftover adhesive from the iPad and give those sticky areas a thorough wipe with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth. This preps everything for fresh adhesive and ensures a rock-solid bond.
- Run a quick test on all your iPad's features, then apply those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following our adhesive application guide before sealing it up. If you run into any snags, remember you can always schedule a repair.
Step 47
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape from the top component bracket, making sure to do it with care so it doesn’t stick back down.
Step 48
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the five screws holding down the upper component bracket:
- Three screws, each 1.4 mm long
- Two screws, each 1.9 mm long
Step 49
You might need to peel back the upper component bracket from the tape that's holding it to the logic board. Take it slow, and it should come off easily!
- Grab your spudger and use the pointy end to gently lift the upper component bracket. Once it’s raised, you’ll be able to grab it with your fingers.
- Carefully remove the upper component bracket.
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Step 50
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the front camera cable press connector. You're almost there!
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Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge that front camera up from its spot until you can snag it with your fingers.
- With the same spudger, carefully tug the adhesive foam pad away from the camera – take it slow and steady!
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Step 52
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully hold the front camera. Rotate it clockwise to guide the cable through its designated slot in the frame.
- Once the cable is nicely in place, gently remove the front camera.
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Step 53
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift the headphone jack connector straight up. A little wiggle, and it should pop right out, no sweat!
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Step 54
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the headphone jack off the logic board. Once it's free, carefully adjust the cable into the right position.
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Step 55
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and go ahead and unscrew the three 1.4mm-long screws holding the cellular antennas in place on the rear case. Easy peasy, you're doing great!
Step 56
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and get to work removing the four 1.4 mm screws holding those cellular antennas in place on the rear case. Simple enough, right?
Step 57
- Grab the pointed end of your spudger and gently pry up the right cellular antenna coaxial cable as close to the connector as you can.
- Time to disconnect the left antenna cable.
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Step 58
- Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pry up on the cellular antennas. Lift straight up on their connectors, and they'll disconnect without much fuss. Easy as that!
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Step 59
- Slip the pointed tip of your spudger behind the right cellular antenna bracket and give it a little nudge to loosen up.
- Now, pull out the right cellular antenna from the rear case—easy peasy!
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Step 60
When handling the antenna cable, grab it by the cable itself, not the connector. Tugging on the connector can cause it to snap off. Treat it gently, like it's a delicate little plant!
- Gently peel the left cellular antenna coaxial cable up from the rear case – nice work!
Step 61
- To wrap things up, simply follow the steps in reverse to put your device back together.
- When you're ready to say goodbye to your old electronics, make sure they go to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Repair didn't go as planned? No worries! Try out some quick troubleshooting, or if you're stuck, feel free to reach out to our iPad 8 Answers community for tips and tricks.
- Still need a hand? If things are getting tricky, don't hesitate to schedule a repair.
