iPad 8 LTE Front Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 52 Steps
Get ready to change out that front camera in your iPad 8 LTE! Just a heads up, this guide is specifically for the LTE version, so if you've got the Wi-Fi model, make sure to click here. When you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker, take it easy—those battery contacts can be a bit fragile and might bend or break, leading to some serious trouble. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, stick to using metal tools only when absolutely necessary (like for screws) to keep your battery safe and avoid any mishaps with those sensitive circuit components. Some of the photos in this guide might be from a different model and could look a tad different, but don’t worry, they won’t change the repair process. Let's get started!
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left side of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening up, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.
For the full scoop on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to give it a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a good pull back to set those Anti-Clamp arms free!
- Grab something to prop up your iPad so it sits just right between those suction cups.
- Place the suction cups around the midpoint of the left edge—one on top, and the other on the bottom.
- Keep that Anti-Clamp steady at the bottom, then smash down on the top cup to get that suction going!
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups—they should stay nice and lined up. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Turn only half a twist at a time, then chill for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do all the heavy lifting!
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough space, just warm it up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise.
- Give it a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little gap for you to work with.
- If your screen isn't warming up enough, grab a hair dryer and gently heat the left edge of the iPad.
- Slide an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a sufficiently big gap.
- Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, slapping on a layer of clear packing tape could help the suction cup stick better. If that doesn’t do the trick, super strong tape can also be a solid substitute for the suction cup. And if you find yourself in a pinch, a little superglue can go a long way in securing that suction cup to your shattered screen.
- Once the screen is nice and warm, grab a suction handle and attach it to the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create just a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to start prying it open.
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Step 7
It's totally cool if the opening pick shows through the digitizer — just pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but be careful, as you might end up with some sticky adhesive that's a bit of a hassle to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the little gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down to the bottom-left corner to break through the adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t snap back together.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep working the adhesive apart.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick towards the top-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 10
- Warm up that iOpener and pop it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently rotate the pick around the top-left corner of your device to loosen the adhesive. Take your time—this part can be a little tricky, but you’ve got this!
Step 12
Keep your pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental scratches. The next steps will guide you on how to steer clear of it.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the device, but stop just shy of the front camera. No need to rush, take it nice and easy!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding everything together.
- Once you've done that, keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Pop the pick back in and slide it up to the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and stick together.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Swing that pick around the top-right corner of your device to coax the adhesive apart. You've got this!
Step 17
The display cables hang out about midway up from the bottom of the iPad. Once you slide down, keep an eye out and stop once you hit around three inches from the base of the iPad. You've got this!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly over to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a delightful two-minute interval.
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner — the antenna’s not a fan of that kind of twist!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick down to the corner to break that sticky bond. You're doing great!
- Once you've got the pick in the corner, leave it there while you gear up for the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—going the other way might mess up the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this section again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Gently slide a new opening pick into the little crack you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.
- Keep the pick to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be careful to only insert the pick a maximum of 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner, keeping just the tip tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Remember, slide that pick gently towards the home button only! Going the other way might just give the antenna a little too much love, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to give that pick another slide, just take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Slide that pick back in and give it a little nudge towards the home button to fully break free the bottom adhesive. You're almost there!
- Once you've got that pick in place, leave it hanging out to the right of the home button before you move on. Keep up the great work!
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and let it chill on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take your time with this step and handle it gently. Make sure the adhesive is warm and soft before you start, and carefully work around all the adhesive with a pick. If needed, pause and reheat to keep things smooth.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, just give those edges a little more heat and gently glide your opening pick along them. You're doing great!
- Give those two opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad. This will help lift the digitizer just enough to break free the last bits of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive along the right side of the iPad. Take your time and be careful; this part is all about finesse!
Step 26
- Keep a steady hand on the digitizer and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to ease apart the last stubborn bit of adhesive.
Step 27
- Once you've successfully separated all the sticky stuff, gently open the digitizer like a charming little book and let it rest parallel to your iPad. It's like giving it a little breather!
- When it's time to put everything back together, give that leftover adhesive on the frame—and on the digitizer, if you're recycling it—a good clean with some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap out the old adhesive for our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
- Watch out for those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they're neatly tucked away under the LCD screen so they don’t get squished. We want your device to be safe and sound!
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to peel away any tape hiding the LCD screws—time to uncover those little rascals!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's get to work! You'll want to unscrew those four 4.3 mm screws that are holding your LCD screen in place. Easy peasy!
Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame.
- Gently slide a spudger into the gap between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD. You're doing great!
- Carefully pry with the spudger to peel away the adhesive. Take your time; patience is key!
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Step 31
- Now, let’s tackle the top-left corner of the LCD just like we did before!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don't try to yank out the LCD just yet; it's still hanging on with a flex cable.
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its spot so you can grab hold with your fingers.
- Flip the LCD open like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD carefully on a clean, soft, and lint-free surface to give yourself easy access to the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle this! Remove the 2.3 mm-long screw that's keeping the battery connector snugly attached to the logic board. You've got this!
Step 34
Check out these photos to see what the battery connector looks like chilling under the logic board. Use them as your trusty guide while you carefully disconnect the battery.
You might notice those nifty cantilever springs on the logic board that are giving a little love tap to the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are secured down, you'll want to slide something thin and flexible between those contact points to get the battery disconnected.
Step 35
Take it easy while you're working to isolate the battery with that trusty battery blocker! Those battery contacts can be a bit fragile, and bending or breaking them could spell trouble for your device. Stay sharp and treat them with care!
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing upwards—no surprises here!
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector with too much muscle. If it's being stubborn, grab a playing card and gently slide it under the logic board to disconnect the battery instead.
Ideally, the battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board smoothly, without any hiccups. Once in place, it should sit comfortably at about a 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide that battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, aiming for a cool 35-degree angle. You're doing great!
- Keep the battery blocker right where it is while you tackle the next steps. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three 1.4 mm screws holding the display cable bracket in place.
Step 37
- Grab some tweezers or just your trusty fingers to lift off the display cable bracket with a bit of care.
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Step 38
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side.
- Avoid pressing the center area—if the connector isn’t lined up right, those pins might bend and cause permanent damage.
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Step 39
- Carefully detach the LCD and place it face down on a clean, soft surface that won’t leave any lint behind. You're doing great, keep it up!
Step 40
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that's hugging the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift that little hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 42
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 43
Heads up! When prying, target only the connectors themselves—avoid stressing the socket on the logic board to keep your iPad safe and sound.
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge up those two digitizer cable press connectors to disconnect them. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 44
Handle the home button ribbon cable gently—no poking or tearing, please!
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the vibration isolator just below the SIM card reader to lift it up.
- Carefully take out the vibration isolator.
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Step 45
The cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the back of the case.
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Step 46
Grab an opening pick to carefully slice through any leftover adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame.
Without proper insulation, parts of the digitizer might accidentally short out against nearby components, which can mess with touch input.
This insulation is super low-key—it's invisible to the naked eye and not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you might see on lots of iPads.
- Carefully remove the front panel assembly.
- If your new display starts acting up with mysterious "ghost" or "phantom" touches, you can fix this by applying a super thin layer of insulating tape—like Kapton (polyimide) tape—to the marked spots on the back of the panel. Replacement digitizers already come with this insulation, so you probably won’t need to add tape.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad, then clean those sticky spots using high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth. This gets the surface ready for fresh adhesive and helps it stick like a champ.
- Give your iPad a good test to check all functions, then apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it all up.
Step 47
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the upper component bracket like you're peeling a banana – it should come off smoothly!
Step 48
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and loosen the five screws holding down the upper component bracket:
- Three screws, each 1.4 mm long
- Two screws, each 1.9 mm long
Step 49
You might have to gently peel the top component bracket off some tape that's holding it down to the logic board.
- Grab your trusty spudger and give the pointed end a little lift to gently pop up that upper component bracket. Once it's up, feel free to give it a good grip with your fingers!
- Now, just go ahead and remove that upper component bracket like a pro!
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Step 50
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its flat end to lift up and disconnect that front camera cable press connector. You've got this!
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Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the front camera out of its cozy little spot until you can comfortably hold it with your fingers.
- Now, use that spudger to carefully peel away the adhesive foam pad that's stuck to the front camera. You're doing great!
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Step 52
- Now it's time to put everything back together! Just follow these steps in reverse and you'll be back in action in no time.
- Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give it a new life.
- If things didn’t quite go as planned, don’t sweat it! Try a bit of troubleshooting or reach out to our iPad 8 Answers community for some friendly advice.
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