iPad 8 LTE Microphone Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 68 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the microphone assembly on your iPad 8 LTE model. Heads up: this is specifically for the LTE version; if you have the Wi-Fi model, check the alternative guide. When isolating the battery with a battery blocker, handle with care—those battery contacts are delicate and can bend or break easily, causing permanent damage. If you opt not to isolate the battery, try to avoid metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like when removing screws) to steer clear of short circuits and protect sensitive parts. Some pictures come from a different model and might look a bit different, but don’t worry, they won’t throw you off the steps.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left edge of your device for about two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As the adhesive starts to loosen, keep these tricky spots in mind to avoid any oops moments:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The upcoming three steps showcase the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we crafted to simplify opening your device. If you're not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.
For the full scoop on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to give it a bit more traction.
- Slide the blue handle backward to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Prop your iPad up on something so it sits nice and level between the suction cups.
- Set the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one up top, one down low.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while you press down firmly on the top cup to get a good suction seal.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Next, spin the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you see the suction cups start to stretch a bit.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to slip out of place, just loosen them a little and realign the arms before continuing.
Step 5
Take it easy—no need to rush! Turn it just a half-turn at a time, and give it a minute to breathe between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience work their magic.
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough, just warm it up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise to loosen things up.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap to work with.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try gently heating the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp opens up a good-sized gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Skip the next step.
Step 6
Got a display that's more cracked than a jigsaw puzzle? No worries! Slap on some clear packing tape to help that suction cup stick around. If you're feeling adventurous, you can even use some strong tape instead of the suction cup. And if you're really in a bind, a little superglue can do the trick to keep that suction cup on your broken screen. Just remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
- When the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle onto the left edge, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently pull up on the suction handle to make a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap to start separating the digitizer from the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you can see that trusty opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just pull it out! The LCD screen should be just fine, but be aware that you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that could be a bit tricky to clean up.
- Slip a second opening pick into the gap you've just made. It's like giving the device a little more room to breathe.
- Gently slide the pick towards the bottom-left corner to start loosening up the adhesive. Take it slow, it's like peeling away the layers of a surprise.
- Keep that pick in the corner so the adhesive doesn't get any funny ideas and re-seal itself. You're doing great!
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a smooth 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation groove going.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive holding it tight.
- Leave that pick snug in the corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together while you work your magic.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Twist that pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive's grip!
Step 12
Keep your pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental damage. The next steps will guide you on how to steer clear of it with ease.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but hold up before you reach that front camera—just a little tease, okay?
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding on tight.
- Keep that pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move forward with your repair journey.
Step 14
- Grab that trusty pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of your device to break free the last bits of adhesive holding it back. You're almost there!
- Once you've made that separation, leave the pick right where it is in the top-right corner. This little buddy will keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again. You're doing great!
Step 15
- Heat up your iOpener and press it gently against the right edge of the device for two minutes. Let the warmth work its magic—this should loosen things up nicely!
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables are hiding about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Stop when you’re around three inches away from the bottom—no need to go too deep here!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it along the right edge of the iPad until you're right in the middle. You're doing awesome!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to rotate the pick all the way around the corner; we wouldn't want to accidentally mess up that antenna!
- Gently slide that bottom-left pick right into the corner to break the adhesive seal. You've got this!
- Keep the pick in place at the corner before you jump to the next step. You're on a roll!
Step 20
Be sure to slide the pick toward the home button only, and not away from it. Going the wrong way might just cause some antenna damage, and we certainly don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Slide that shiny new opening pick into the tiny gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick just to the left of the home button before you move on to the next step.
Step 21
Be gentle when inserting the pick—only up to 1 mm, so you don't accidentally mess with the right antenna. Easy does it!
- Grab an opening pick and gently slide it into the gap you've created. You got this!
- Now, carefully guide the pick under the home button, moving it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be snugly between the digitizer and the frame, no need to force it.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button only—going the other way might mess up your antenna, and we don't want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things moving smoothly.
- Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it toward the home button to fully loosen that bottom adhesive.
- Once you’ve done that, just let the pick chill to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, softening up nicely. Use a pick to gently separate all the sticky bits. Remember, it's totally okay to pause and reheat if you need to!
If you encounter a stubborn spot, just give those edges a little reheat and gently glide along with your trusty opening pick! You've got this!
- Gently twist those two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a tad, helping to break free the last bits of adhesive along the way.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the right edge of the iPad in place.
Step 26
- While holding the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to peel away the last bit of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After you've loosened all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Gently use tweezers or your fingers to peel away any tape hiding the LCD screws.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.3mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. You’ve got this!
Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame.
- Gently slide a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Slowly pry apart the adhesive using the spudger. Take it easy and let the tool do the work!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Go ahead and do the same thing for the top-left corner of the LCD.
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don’t go yanking the LCD out just yet; it's still got a flex cable keeping it cozy.
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger underneath the LCD, just enough to give it a little lift, so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Now, imagine you're flipping a page in a book—carefully flip the LCD near the camera, letting it roll over the home button end of the frame.
- Once you've got it flipped, place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle that pesky 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Unscrew it like a pro and keep your spirits high!
Step 34
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. Use them as your guide while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Watch out when you're isolating that battery with a battery blocker! Those battery contacts can be a bit finicky and might bend or break, leading to some serious bummer moments. Handle with care and keep that device safe!
Make sure the battery blocker logo is facing up – it's like giving it a little hello before it goes to work.
Don't force the battery blocker under the connector. If it's being stubborn, try sliding a playing card underneath the battery instead. It’s a neat little trick to get that connection loose.
The battery blocker (or your trusty playing card) should glide under the logic board without a hitch. Once it's in, it should rest at a comfy 15-degree angle, just hanging out in the right spot.
- Gently slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector, keeping it at a 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue with the repair. It’s your little helper for the job!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 37
- Grab your trusty tweezers or just use your fingers to carefully pop off that display cable bracket. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab your spudger and gently use the flat end to lift and disconnect the LCD cable press connector. Easy does it!
- To put the press connectors back in place, line it up carefully and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side.
- Avoid pressing the center – it’s like the connector’s 'sensitive spot'. Misalign it and those pins can bend, and that's a one-way ticket to permanent damage!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Carefully lift the LCD off and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot—think of it as giving your screen a comfy little nap!
Step 40
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel off the tape that’s holding down the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift up the little hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 43
Be gentle and only pry on the connectors themselves—laying hands on the socket on the logic board is a no-go if you want to keep your iPad happy and healthy.
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to pop them loose—easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 44
Be super careful not to accidentally snag or damage the home button ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
- Time to get a little spudger action going! Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift up the vibration isolator that's nestled right below the SIM card reader.
- Once you've done that, go ahead and pull out the vibration isolator. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 45
The cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently work the home button cable free from the rear case. Take your time—no need to rush, just a little finesse will do the trick!
Tools Used
Step 46
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that’s still holding the front panel assembly to the frame. It’s like cutting through the last piece of tape on a present!
Watch out! Without the right insulation, parts of the digitizer might touch other components and cause some serious touch input hiccups. We definitely don’t want that!
This insulation is a sneaky little thing—it’s invisible to the naked eye and totally different from those foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads. Keep your eyes peeled!
- Start by removing the front panel assembly. It's the first step, so take your time and be gentle.
- If you notice any weird 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches on the new display, don't worry! Simply add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. That should do the trick. But if you're using a replacement screen from us, you're all set, no extra tape needed.
- When you’re putting things back together, make sure to clear off any old adhesive from your iPad. Use a clean, lint-free cloth and some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) to wipe down the glued areas. This helps ensure the new adhesive sticks like it’s supposed to.
- Now, test out your iPad’s functions to make sure everything’s working. After that, add those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide, and then seal everything up nice and tight.
Step 47
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the upper component bracket—think of it like peeling off a sticker without leaving any sticky surprises!
Step 48
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's tackle those five screws holding the upper component bracket in place:
- Three of these little guys are 1.4 mm long,
- and two are a bit longer at 1.9 mm. Let's take them out!
Step 49
You might have to gently peel away the upper component bracket if it's stuck to some tape that's holding it to the logic board. A little patience goes a long way!
- Grab that spudger and use its sharp end to gently pry up the upper component bracket until you can give it a good hold with your fingers.
- Now, go ahead and remove the upper component bracket with confidence!
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the front camera cable connector and carefully lift it up to disconnect.
Tools Used
Step 51
- Gently pry the front camera out of its nook using a spudger until you can grab it with your fingers.
- Carefully use the spudger to peel away the adhesive foam pad from the front camera.
Tools Used
Step 52
- Grab your tweezers, catch the front camera, and give it a gentle clockwise twist to thread the cable neatly through its frame slot.
- Pop out the front camera carefully.
Tools Used
Step 53
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the headphone jack's press connector straight up and disconnect it. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 54
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift that headphone jack off the logic board, then give the cable a little nudge to reposition it like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 55
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the three 1.4mm screws holding the cellular antennas to the rear case. It's a quick move, and you'll be one step closer to getting things back to normal!
Step 56
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four tiny 1.4 mm-long screws that are holding the cellular antennas in place on the back cover. They’re small, but don’t worry, you’ve got this!
Step 57
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointy end to gently lift the right cellular antenna coaxial cable away from the connector. Get in close for the best angle!
- Next up, it's time to disconnect the left antenna cable. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 58
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift straight up on the press connectors to disconnect both cellular antennas. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 59
- With a gentle touch, slide the sharp tip of your spudger behind the right cellular antenna bracket to give it a little nudge and pop it free.
- Once it’s loose, carefully lift the right cellular antenna away from the rear case, and voilà!
Tools Used
Step 60
When handling the antenna cable, make sure to grip it by the cable itself, not the connector. Tugging on the connector can lead to a quick break. Treat it like a delicate flower and keep that connector safe!
- Gently lift the left cellular antenna coaxial cable away from the rear case. Take your time and be patient – this part can be a bit tricky, but you've got this!
Step 61
- Slide the flat end of your spudger under the left cellular antenna bracket and gently pop it up to free it.
- Lift the left cellular antenna away from the rear case and set it aside.
Tools Used
Step 62
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the tiny 1.4 mm screw holding the microphone assembly to the rear case. Easy does it!
Step 63
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its flat end to lift up and disconnect that microphone cable's press connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 64
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the top edge of your iPad's back for about thirty seconds. This little step helps to gently loosen the microphone assembly and make your repair journey smoother!
Tools Used
Step 65
If that microphone is playing hard to get, heat it up a bit more and give it another go.
- Gently slide a halberd spudger behind the upper microphone and carefully peel it off the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 66
- Grab your trusty halberd spudger and slide it under the lower microphone. Give it a gentle twist to peel it away from the rear case. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 67
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully pull the microphone assembly flex cable through the slot in the rear case. Nice and steady, no rush.
Tools Used
Step 68
- Put your device back together by following these steps in reverse — easy peasy!
- Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycling center.
- If the repair didn’t quite work out, give some simple troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our iPad 8 Answers community for tips.
- And if you’re stuck or want a pro touch, you can always schedule a repair.
