iPad 8 LTE Right Bluetooth and Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 54 Steps
Get ready to swap out that Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna in your iPad 8 LTE! Just a heads up, this guide is exclusively for the LTE version—if you’ve got the Wi-Fi model, you’ll want to check out a different guide. When you’re isolating the battery with a battery blocker, tread lightly! Those battery contacts can be a bit delicate, and bending or breaking them could lead to some serious heartbreak. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like when you're dealing with screws) to avoid any battery drama or circuit mishaps. A few bits of advice in this guide may come from an older model, so keep in mind there are minor variations between models, but don’t worry—the overall process is pretty much the same. If you find yourself in a pickle, remember you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
- Warm up your iOpener and place it on the left edge of your device for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you chill and let the adhesive do its thing, keep an eye out for these little trouble spots that don’t take kindly to prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps will showcase the Anti-Clamp, our nifty little gadget designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re opting out of using the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just zip ahead three steps for a different approach.
Looking for the full scoop on how to use the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface feels a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just grab some tape and create a more textured surface. Easy peasy!
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to unleash the Anti-Clamp's arms! It's like giving it a little high-five.
- Find something to prop your iPad up, ensuring it's nice and level between those suction cups—just like a comfy pillow.
- Now, let’s place those suction cups! Aim for the middle of the left edge—one on top and one on the bottom, just chillin'.
- Keep a steady grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and give that top cup a firm press to create some sweet suction magic.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place.
- Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you notice the suction cups stretching.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then take a breather for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do the heavy lifting!
For a detailed guide on how to wield that trusty hair dryer, be sure to check this out.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you the gap you need, just warm things up a bit more and give the handle a half-turn clockwise. You're doing great!
- Take a moment and let that adhesive chill for about a minute to create a little wiggle room.
- If your screen is playing hard to get and isn’t warming up, a hair dryer can help. Just give some love to the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and there's a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next step!
Step 6
Got a screen that’s more cracked than a sidewalk? Slap on a piece of clear packing tape to give your suction cup something to grip. No tape? No problem—super strong tape can step in as your new suction cup. And if you’re really stuck, a dab of superglue can help your suction cup stick to that shattered screen like a champ.
- Once the screen's nice and warm to the touch, stick a suction handle on the left edge, as close to the edge as you can manage.
- Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to make just enough room between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slip an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame, and you're all set!
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Step 7
No stress if the opening pick peeks through the digitizer — just pull it out when you're ready. The LCD screen should be safe, but you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that could be a bit of a pain to clean up later.
- Pop in a second opening pick where you just made some space.
- Gently slide that pick over to the bottom-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick in that corner to stop the adhesive from re-sticking. You're doing great!
Step 8
- If the opening pick is getting a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of your iPad. That should help separate the adhesive without any fuss.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of your device to break the adhesive seal.
- Keep that pick in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn't seal itself back up. You've got this!
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy hug to the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
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Step 11
- Give the pick a gentle spin around the top-left corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive. Just a little turn and you'll be on your way!
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera; you wouldn't want to accidentally give that lens a bad day! Follow these steps to keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, pausing just before you reach the front camera.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move ahead.
Step 14
- Grab that pick and gently slide it over to the top-right corner of your device to fully break free the adhesive holding it down.
- Once you've made that separation, keep the pick in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it right on the device’s right edge for a solid two minutes.
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Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free that pesky adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide carefully and stop once you’re about three inches from the bottom—no need to go further!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and gently slide it halfway along the right edge of your iPad.
Step 18
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin that pick all the way around the corner, or you might accidentally give the antenna a little love tap it doesn't want!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break the adhesive seal. You're doing great!
- Keep that pick in place before moving on to the next step. You're on the right track!
Step 20
Just remember to slide that pick toward the home button, not away! We wouldn't want you to accidentally mess with the antenna – keep it cool and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this section once more, simply take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner.
- Wedge a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the pick past the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Pause and leave the pick just to the left of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Just a friendly reminder: only slide the pick in about 1 mm to keep that right antenna safe and sound!
- Gently slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made. Nice job!
- Now, ease the pick underneath the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame. You've got this!
Step 22
Be sure to slide the pick toward the home button and resist the urge to go the other way, or you might accidentally mess up the antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide that pick over this area again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Slide the pick back in and gently work it towards the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.
- Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to work with, and carefully separate all the adhesive using a pick. Don’t hesitate to pause and heat it up again if needed.
If you're encountering some stubborn resistance, give those edges a little more heat and gently glide along them with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a tad, while freeing up the last bit of adhesive along the way. You've got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help loosen that stubborn adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. You've got this!
Step 26
- Keep a steady hand on the digitizer, then gently wiggle an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully loosen the last bit of stubborn adhesive.
Step 27
- Once you've peeled away all that sticky stuff, flip the digitizer open like a book and lay it down next to the iPad.
- When it's time to put everything back together, make sure to wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—with a bit of isopropyl alcohol. Toss on some fresh adhesive using our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables as you reassemble your device. Be sure they're neatly tucked away under the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to peel away any tape that's holding down those pesky LCD screws. Nice and easy, you'll be on your way to the next step in no time!
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Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those four 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. You've got this!
Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame. Just a little nudge and it should come right off!
- Gently slide a spudger into the gap between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD. You're doing great!
- Carefully pry with the spudger to loosen the adhesive. Take your time, and remember, you've got this!
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Step 31
- Now, let's tackle the top-left corner of the LCD just like we did before!
Step 32
Hold off on yanking the LCD all the way out here—it's still hanging on by that sneaky flex cable.
- Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently wiggle the LCD free from its snug spot—just enough so you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.
- Now, flip the LCD like you're turning a page in a book, but start near the camera and carefully rotate it over the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface. This gives you easy access to the display cables without any mess.
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Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector to the logic board. Let's get that battery loose and ready for action!
Step 34
Here are some shots of what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. Use these as your guide while gently disconnecting the battery.
Take note of the cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are secured with adhesive, you'll need to carefully slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Take it easy when using the battery blocker to isolate the battery. The battery contacts can be pretty fragile—bend or break them, and you’re in for some major headaches. Handle with care!
Make sure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing upwards for best results!
Be gentle with the battery blocker—no need to force it under the connector. If it's giving you a hard time, a playing card can work wonders to disconnect the battery!
The battery blocker or playing card should glide smoothly under the logic board without any snags. Once it's in, it should rest at a cool 15-degree angle!
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector at about a 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker right where it is while you continue working.
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Step 36
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 37
- Gently pry up the display cable bracket using tweezers or your fingers to get it out of the way.
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Step 38
- Grab that trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector. You've got this!
- When it's time to reattach connectors like this one, just take your time! Align it carefully and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same on the other side. Easy peasy!
- A little tip: avoid pressing down in the middle. If the connector's off-kilter, the pins might bend, and nobody wants that kind of drama!
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Step 39
- Carefully take out the LCD and set it down gently, screen-side down, on a clean, soft, lint-free surface. Give it a nice little cushion so it stays safe and sound!
Step 40
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift off the tape that’s covering the home button cable’s ZIF connector.
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift that little hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. It's a small step, but it’s totally necessary for the next part of your repair adventure!
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Step 42
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 43
To keep your iPad safe and sound, make sure to gently pry right on the connectors themselves. Avoid the socket on the logic board like it's a hot potato!
- Grab that trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently lift up and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You've got this!
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Step 44
Be super careful not to poke or rip that home button ribbon cable!
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the vibration isolator located beneath the SIM card reader to lift it up.
- Carefully take out the vibration isolator.
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Step 45
The cable is held down with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the rear case like a pro.
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Step 46
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that might be holding the front panel assembly to the frame. Let's break that bond!
Watch out! If these areas of the digitizer aren't insulated properly, they could accidentally short out against other components, leading to touch input troubles. No one wants that!
The insulation is a sneaky little thing—not visible to the naked eye and distinct from the foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads.
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting like it has a mind of its own with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch issues, a thin insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape applied to the marked spots on the back of the panel usually sorts it out. Replacement digitizers already include the right insulation, so no extra tape should be needed.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean all glued surfaces with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth. This preps the surfaces perfectly for new adhesive and helps it stick like a champ.
- Give your iPad a full test to make sure everything’s working. Then, apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.
Step 47
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up that little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 48
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that SIM card reader cable out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 49
There are two antenna cables here, but you only need to unplug the one closest to the edge. Easy, right? Just grab that one and go for it!
- Gently slide the spudger's pointed end underneath the right antenna cable and lift it up carefully to disconnect. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 50
Hold the antenna cable firmly by the cable itself, not by its connector—pulling on the connector can snap it, and nobody wants that!
- Gently lift up the right antenna cable. Easy does it!
Step 51
- Gently keep peeling the right antenna cable off the rear case until it’s fully free and clear.
Step 52
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and get ready to remove the three screws holding that right antenna in place.
- One screw, 2.3 mm long—easy to spot!
- Two screws, each 1.4 mm long—don't let them slip away!
Step 53
The antenna cable is snugly held to the speaker by a tiny metal bracket. This little guy is crimped onto the antenna and stuck to the speaker enclosure with some strong adhesive. To free up the antenna, you'll need to cut through that adhesive. Let's do this!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—nice and easy now.
- Carefully move the pick toward the charging port to slice through the adhesive holding things down.
- Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it pops free from the tape underneath.
Step 54
- Now it's time to put everything back together—just retrace your steps like a pro!
- Got some old tech hanging around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let's keep our planet happy!
- If things didn't go as smoothly as you'd hoped, no worries! A little basic troubleshooting might do the trick, or feel free to reach out to our iPad 8 Answers community for some friendly advice.
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