iPad 8 Right Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 57 Steps
For your own safety, make sure to drain that battery down to below 25% before you dive into disassembling your iPad!
Follow this guide to swap out the right speaker in your iPad 8 Wi-Fi model. Heads up: this walkthrough is just for the Wi-Fi version—if you have the LTE one, check the appropriate guide instead. Before you get started, make sure to drain your battery below 25% to lower the chance of fire if the battery gets damaged during the repair. If your battery looks swollen, take extra care. When disconnecting the battery using a battery blocker, be super gentle—the contacts are fragile and can bend or break, causing permanent damage. If you decide not to isolate the battery, try to avoid metal tools unless really necessary (like when unscrewing) to prevent short circuits and protect sensitive components. Some images in this guide come from a different model and might look a bit different, but that won't mess with the repair steps.
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is doing its slow dance and loosening up, keep an eye out for these parts that really don't like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps showcase the Anti-Clamp—a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
For detailed instructions on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface is a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to give it a better hold.
- Give the blue handle a little tug backward to set the Anti-Clamp's arms free.
- Nestle your iPad on something sturdy so it's snugly balanced between the suction cups.
- Set the suction cups right around the middle of the left edge—one up top and one down low.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while you give the top cup a firm press to create that satisfying suction.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Rotate the handle a full 360 degrees clockwise, or until you see the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.
Step 5
Take it easy, and don't twist more than half a turn at a time! Give it a minute between turns to let the Anti-Clamp do its magic. Patience is key, and you've got this!
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer for this job? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, just heat it up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn to get that perfect gap.
- Take a breather for a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and give you a cozy little gap to work with.
- If your screen's not warming up sufficiently, grab a hair dryer and give the left edge of the iPad a gentle heat-up.
- Slide an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp has created a nice enough opening for you.
- Feel free to hop over the next step!
Step 6
If your screen is looking like a shattered puzzle, don’t sweat it! A layer of clear packing tape can be your best buddy, helping the suction cup stick like a pro. If you want to get a little adventurous, super strong tape can also do the trick in place of the suction cup. And if you’re really in a bind, a dab of superglue on the suction cup might just save the day!
- First things first! Warm up that screen until it's cozy to the touch. Then, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Next, gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You've got this!
- Now, slide an opening pick into that little gap you've created between the digitizer and the frame. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just go ahead and pull it out! Your LCD screen should be safe and sound, though there’s a chance you might leave some stubborn adhesive behind. But hey, you’ve got this!
- Pop in a second opening pick right where you made that gap. You've got this!
- Gently slide that pick over to the bottom-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive holding it hostage.
- Keep that pick in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from trying to reattach itself. You’re almost there!
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets caught in the sticky stuff, just give it a little roll along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation moving smoothly.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick toward the top-left corner to start loosening that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive and get things moving.
Step 12
Keep your pick away from the front camera lens—sliding over it could cause some unwanted damage. The next steps will show you how to steer clear and keep that lens safe.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but make sure to stop just shy of that front camera—it's a little shy!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick above the front camera to break that pesky adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the top-right corner to fully loosen the top adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in that top-right spot to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free that stubborn adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide up until you're about three inches from the bottom, then pause and take a breather.
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and glide it smoothly to the center of the iPad's right side.
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the bottom edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid twisting the pick all the way around the corner – it's a quick way to accidentally mess with the antenna!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break that adhesive bond – it's like giving it a little nudge!
- Keep that pick snug in the bottom-left corner as you prep for the next step. You've got this!
Step 20
Be sure to slide the pick gently towards the home button and resist the urge to go the other way; you wouldn’t want to accidentally mess with the antenna and create a little chaos!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Gently slide a new opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick to the side of the home button before moving on.
Step 21
Careful now—slide that pick in just up to 1 mm to keep the right antenna happy and unharmed.
- Gently slide an opening pick into that little gap you've just made. You're doing great!
- Now, deftly maneuver the pick under the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame – nice and easy!
Step 22
Remember, slide that pick only towards the home button, not away! We want to keep that antenna safe and sound. You've got this!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area once more, simply pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner. Easy fix!
- Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.
- Park the pick just to the right of the home button and get ready for the next move.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm to get that perfect peel, and carefully separate all the adhesive with your pick. Don’t hesitate to pause and reheat if needed—patience pays off!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges a little heat and glide your trusty opening pick along them like a pro.
- Give those two opening picks a little twist at the left corners of your iPad! This will gently lift the digitizer just enough to break free the last bits of adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad a bit more.
Step 26
- Keep a steady hand on the digitizer while gently sliding an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive.
Step 27
- Once the adhesive is all separated, gently open the digitizer like you're flipping through a book and lay it flat next to your iPad.
- When you're putting things back together, grab some isopropyl alcohol to clean off any leftover adhesive on the frame and the digitizer (if you're reusing it). Then, just stick on some fresh adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables when you're reassembling. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to keep everything safe and sound.
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the four 4.3 mm-long screws holding the LCD in place.
- Keep a sharp eye on each screw as you go—making sure every one gets back to its original spot will save your device from any surprises.
- Peel away any tape that might be hiding those LCD screws so you can get a clear shot at them.
Step 29
Hold up! Don't yank the LCD out just yet—it's still hanging on by a flex cable. Be gentle and take your time.
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its slot so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Carefully flip the LCD over like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access the display cables without any scratches.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Keep it safe!
Step 31
Check out these photos to get a clear view of the battery connector under the logic board. Use them as your guide while you carefully disconnect the battery.
You’ll notice the battery connector has cantilever springs that push against the battery’s contact pads on the logic board. Since both the board and the battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to get the battery free. Take it slow and steady!
Step 32
When sliding in that battery blocker, go easy—those battery contacts are delicate and can bend or snap, which means the damage is permanent.
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing up—looking good matters!
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector with brute force. If it’s being stubborn, try sliding a playing card underneath to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide smoothly beneath the logic board without any resistance, settling at about a 15-degree angle once in place.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a cool 35-degree angle.
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you tackle the rest of the steps.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding that display cable bracket in place. Nice and steady, you got this!
Step 34
- Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers, and gently lift off the display cable bracket.
Tools Used
Step 35
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pry up to unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When it's time to reconnect, line up one side of the press connector and press down until you hear a satisfying click, then do the same for the other side.
- Avoid pressing down the middle — if the connector is off-center, the pins might bend and cause some serious damage.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Gently lift the LCD off your device and lay it face down on a soft, clean, lint-free spot—think of it as giving your screen a little comfy nap while you work.
Step 37
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel off the tape that’s protecting the home button cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable's ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 40
Careful now! When prying, only nudge those connectors themselves—not the socket on the logic board—to keep your iPad safe and sound.
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors. Take your time, they're stubborn but nothing you can't handle!
Tools Used
Step 41
Be careful not to poke or rip the home button ribbon cable! We've got your back, but let's keep that cable intact.
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop up the vibration isolator chilling near the bottom-right corner of your device.
- Carefully take out the vibration isolator and set it aside.
Tools Used
Step 42
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of light adhesive, just enough to keep it cozy and secure!
- Grab your tweezers and gently lift the home button cable away from the frame like you're peeling a sticker—easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive that might still be holding the front panel assembly snugly to the frame.
Watch out! If those areas of the digitizer aren't properly insulated, they might end up grounding out on other components, leading to some frustrating touch input hiccups.
The insulation is a bit of a sneaky character—it's not visible to the naked eye and differs from the foam dust barrier strips seen on many iPads.
- Start by gently removing the front panel assembly.
- If you're noticing any 'phantom' touch issues after installing the new display, don't worry—it's an easy fix! Simply add a thin layer of insulating tape (like Kapton tape) to the back of the panel in the highlighted areas. Pro tip: most replacement digitizers already come with insulation, so no need for extra tape unless you encounter this problem.
- Before putting everything back together, take a moment to clean up. Remove any old adhesive from the iPad and wipe down the glued areas with a cloth soaked in high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more). This ensures the fresh adhesive will stick like a charm!
- Once everything's looking clean and prepped, give your iPad a quick test to make sure it's functioning smoothly. Then, apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display. When you're ready, follow the adhesive application guide, seal everything up, and you're all set!
Step 44
- Take the pointed end of your spudger and gently slide it under the right antenna cable. Lift it up straight to disconnect it. Nice and easy—no need to rush!
- When you're putting it back together, those connectors can be a bit tricky. Just hold each one over its socket and press down gently with the flat end of your spudger. You'll feel it snap into place. Patience is key, and you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 45
Hold onto the antenna cable itself, not the connector—yanking on those connectors is a quick way to break them, and we want to keep things intact!
- Gently lift the right antenna cable like you’re giving it a little stretch.
Step 46
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the three screws holding the right antenna in place. Take your time!
- One screw, measuring 2.3 mm in length, is ready to come out.
- Two screws, each 1.4 mm long, are next—don’t lose track of them!
Step 47
The antenna cable is held in place by a tiny metal bracket that’s buddies with the speaker. This bracket is snugly crimped to the antenna and glued to the speaker enclosure. To free the antenna, you’ll need to break that adhesive bond. Easy peasy!
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—think of it like sneaking into a VIP section.
- Glide the pick toward the charging port to slice through the adhesive like a pro.
- Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it’s free from the tape holding it down.
Step 48
- Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna and speaker assembly to get things started.
- Carefully work the pick under the antenna to slice through that sticky foam adhesive.
- Lift out the right antenna and set it aside.
Step 49
- Gently slide the pointed end of your spudger under the left antenna cable, then lift it up with a steady hand to disconnect it.
Tools Used
Step 50
- Gently peel the left antenna cable away from the rear case, following along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully move the left antenna cable out of your way to keep things neat and tidy.
Step 51
Feel free to peel back the tape all the way or just enough to reach the right speaker ZIF connector—your call!
- Grab a pair of tweezers or your trusty fingernail and gently lift the tape that's hiding the speaker connectors. You're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the right speaker cable’s ZIF connector.
Tools Used
Step 53
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the right speaker cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 54
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.3 mm screw holding the right speaker in place.
Step 55
- Gently peel back the LCD buffer tape from the rear case, taking your time to ensure everything stays in one piece.
Step 56
- Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.
- Gently nudge the speaker away from the rear case—easy does it.
- Carefully pop the speaker out from under the little shelf on the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 57
- Now, just reverse the steps you followed to take everything apart, and your device will be good to go.
- Got e-waste? Don’t just toss it—take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Did things not go as planned? No worries! Try some quick troubleshooting or check out our iPad 8 Answers community for advice.
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