iPad 9 Headphone Jack Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Heads up! Make sure to drain your iPad’s battery below 25% before popping it open — it’s safer and smarter that way.
Follow this guide to swap out the headphone jack on your iPad 9 Wi-Fi. Heads up: this is for the Wi-Fi model only—if you have the LTE version, click here instead. Before you dive in, make sure your battery is drained below 25% to lower fire risks if it gets damaged during the repair. If your battery looks swollen, take extra care. When disconnecting the battery using a battery blocker, be super gentle—those contacts are fragile and easy to ruin. If you skip isolating the battery, try to avoid metal tools except when absolutely needed (like for screws) to prevent short circuits and protect the delicate circuits. Some photos might show a slightly different model, but don’t worry—they won’t affect your repair steps.
Step 1
Before diving into your repair, take a moment to power off your iPad. It’s the best way to keep things safe while you work. Trust us, it’ll make the process smoother!
- Warm up that iOpener and place it on the left side of your iPad. Let it do its magic for about two minutes.
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Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening up, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like to be pried:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
- Ambient light sensors
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for another way to get the job done.
For detailed instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to create a bit more traction.
- Pull back the blue handle to unlock the Anti-Clamp arms—this is your cue to get started!
- Place something under your iPad so it sits nice and level between the suction cups—think of it like giving it a comfy bed.
- Position the suction cups on the left edge of the device, one near the top and one near the bottom. Keep them about halfway across for a balanced hold.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create a good suction. You got this!
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then hang tight for a minute. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting!
Want the full scoop on using a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide and get the hang of it.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough wiggle room, heat the area a bit more and twist the handle clockwise about half a turn.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a gap you can work with.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, try warming the left edge of the iPad gently with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a big enough gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Skip this step and keep going.
Step 6
Here’s how to pop open the iPad using a suction handle.
If the screen is shattered beyond belief, slap on some clear packing tape to give the suction cup something to grip. No tape? No problem — strong tape can do the trick too. And if you’re feeling adventurous, a dab of superglue can help the suction cup stick to that cracked screen.
Remember, if this step feels tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
- Once the screen is slightly warm, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge, right as close to the border as you can.
- Gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame—just enough to wiggle a tool in.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and frame and carefully work your way around.
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Step 7
Don't stress if the opening pick peeks through the digitizer—just slide it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but keep in mind that you might end up with some sticky adhesive left behind that's a bit of a hassle to clean up.
- Slide your second opening pick into the gap you just created—smooth and easy does it.
- Gently glide the pick down towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive's hold.
- Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to stop that sticky adhesive from making a comeback.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just gently roll it along the side of the iPad to keep the adhesive separation going. Keep a steady hand and you'll breeze through it.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal.
- Leave the pick in the corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the top edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
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Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
Step 12
Be careful around the front camera! You don't want to accidentally scratch that lens. Follow these next steps to keep everything smooth and safe.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, making sure to stop just before reaching the front camera. Take it slow, no rush here!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so that just the tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
- Rest the pick near the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Grab the pick again and gently slide it up to the top-right corner of the iPad. This should completely separate the top adhesive.
- Leave the pick in place at the top-right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t re-stick.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 16
- Swing that pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen up the sticky adhesive holding things tight.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. When you’re sliding, stop once you hit the 3-inch mark from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slide it to the right edge of the iPad, aiming for the middle. Take your time and get it in there just right!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it to the bottom edge of the iPad for two minutes. This will help loosen things up a bit and make your repair smoother!
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Step 19
Be careful not to rotate the pick too much around the corner – you don't want to risk messing up the antenna!
Check out the third image to spot the bottom-left antenna hanging out right beneath the digitizer.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner, just enough to break that adhesive seal. You're doing great!
- Leave the pick in place right there, and get ready for the next step—you're almost there!
Step 20
Slide the pick gently only toward the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
If the pick isn't sliding smoothly, try removing it and reinserting it at the bottom-left corner. It should slide like butter from there!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it into the gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick across the antenna, stopping just before you hit the home button.
- Leave the pick to the left of the home button and move on to the next step.
Step 21
- Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you've just made. Take your time, it's all about precision!
- Now, carefully slide the pick under the home button and toward the bottom-right corner. Just make sure you're only sneaking the tip between the digitizer and the frame—no need to go too deep!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you need to slide the pick over this part again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth.
- Gently re-insert the pick and glide it toward the home button to completely break free the bottom adhesive.
- Leave the pick just to the right of the home button, and take a moment before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 24
Take it easy on this step—no need to rush! Make sure the adhesive is nice and soft before you get started, and use your pick to gently separate all the adhesive. If things aren't going perfectly, feel free to pause and give it another round of heat. You got this!
If you feel things are sticking a bit too much, gently warm up the edges again and slide your opening pick along to ease it open.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the iPad's left corners to lift the digitizer just enough to break the last of the adhesive's grip. It's a bit like getting the last cookie out of the jar—just a little nudge and you're there!
Step 25
As you go through the remaining steps, try to avoid touching the back of the glass or the surface of the LCD with your fingers—those pesky fingerprints are hard to get rid of. A little extra care goes a long way!
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to give the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad a little extra nudge to separate. A little patience goes a long way!
Step 26
Handle those two digitizer cables with care while using your opening pick – they’re delicate and deserve some extra love!
- Carefully support the digitizer while gently sliding an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to peel apart the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- After carefully loosening all the adhesive, open up the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting things back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, freshen things up by applying new adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly. Fold them neatly underneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD to the frame.
- Keep a close eye on each screw during the repair—putting them back exactly where they came from will keep your iPad happy and safe.
- Peel away any tape covering the LCD screws so you can get a good grip on them.
Step 29
Hold up! Don’t yank the LCD off completely just yet—it’s still hanging on by a few cables near the home button.
Gently lift the LCD starting from the front-facing camera side only.
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently wedge the flat end underneath the LCD. Just lift it a little—enough to get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, treat the iPad LCD like a book and carefully flip it open. Start at the camera end and fold it over towards the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD down on a clean, soft surface that's free of lint. This gives you all the space you need to work on the display cables.
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Step 30
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the tiny 2.3 mm-long screw that’s holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. Take your time—don’t rush it!
Step 31
Check out these photos showing the battery connector hiding beneath the logic board. Use these as a guide while carefully disconnecting the battery.
Notice how the battery connector has cantilever springs pressing down on the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and the battery are glued in place, you'll need something thin and flexible to slide between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
Take it easy when isolating the battery with a blocker! The battery contacts are pretty delicate and can bend or break with just a little too much force, so be gentle to avoid permanent damage.
Make sure the battery blocker logo is facing up—that way it knows where it's supposed to go.
Don’t force the battery blocker underneath the connector like you're trying to win a tug-of-war. If it's being stubborn, grab a playing card to gently separate the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board without any resistance. Once in place, it should settle at a slight 15-degree angle.
- Carefully slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees. Take your time; precision is key.
- Leave the battery blocker where it is while you continue working. It's doing its job, so don't worry about it.
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Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully remove the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 34
- Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things moving along smoothly.
Step 35
- Grab your spudger and use the flat end to gently lift up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector. Easy does it!
- To reattach connectors like this, carefully line it up and press down on one side until you hear that satisfying 'click.' Then do the same on the other side. Don’t press in the middle—if the connector gets misaligned, it could bend the pins, and we don’t want that kind of drama. Take it slow and steady!
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Step 36
- Carefully peel off the LCD and gently lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.
Step 37
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully peel back the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector. Take it slow and steady—you've got this!
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Step 38
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Step 39
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector—steady hands win the day!
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Step 40
Be gentle and only pry at the connectors themselves—avoiding any pressure on the logic board socket is key to keeping your iPad happy and safe.
- Take the flat side of your spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors. Keep it steady, no rush—just a smooth move!
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Step 41
Be extra gentle with the home button ribbon cable—no poking or tearing, please!
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the buffer block located near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.
- Lift and remove the buffer block carefully.
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Step 42
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
- Gently grab your tweezers and carefully peel the home button cable off the frame. Take your time, no rush here!
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Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that might still be clinging the front panel to the frame. It's like peeling a sticker off your phone, but with a little more finesse.
Watch out! Without the right insulation, the digitizer could short-circuit and mess up your touch input. Not the kind of malfunction you want!
This insulation isn’t something you can spot with your eyes, and it’s different from the foam dust barriers you see on iPads. It's the sneaky hero that keeps things running smoothly.
- Start by carefully removing the front panel assembly. Take your time, no rush!
- If you're seeing some 'phantom' touch issues after installing your new display, here's a quick fix: Add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, to the areas highlighted on the back of the panel. Don’t worry, most new displays come with the right insulation, so this step is usually only needed for some tricky cases.
- Before putting everything back together, make sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab a cloth and some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) and wipe down the glued areas. This will prep the surface for fresh adhesive and ensure it sticks perfectly!
- Finally, give your iPad a quick functionality test and add the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy guide. Once everything’s in place, seal it up and you're good to go!
Step 44
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the upper component bracket. Keep them safe!
Step 45
- Grab some tweezers or just your fingers and carefully lift that upper component bracket right off the frame.
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Step 46
- Carefully peel away any tape that’s covering the left ambient light sensor’s ZIF connector.
Step 47
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to lift up that little hinged locking flap on the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector. It's a small move, but it'll make a big difference!
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Step 48
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the left ambient light sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector—no sudden moves, we want it smooth and easy!
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Step 49
The left ambient light sensor is gently sticking to the frame. A little nudge and it’ll be free.
- Gently grab the sensor with tweezers or your fingers and carefully lift it away from the frame.
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Step 50
- Grab those tweezers and gently pick away any leftover adhesive on the frame. You got this!
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Step 51
- Gently lift any tape hiding the headphone jack connector—think of it like peeling back a sticker, but for tech!
Step 52
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift and unplug the headphone jack's press connector.
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Step 53
Heads up: the headphone jack cable is just lightly stuck to the frame, so a gentle touch will do the trick!
- Gently lift the headphone jack cable off the frame using tweezers or your fingers—easy does it!
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Step 54
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and twist out the 3.3 mm-long screw holding the headphone jack in place on the frame. Easy does it!
Step 55
- To put your device back together, simply follow these steps in reverse order. It's like a puzzle, but with less stress!
- Got e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let's keep things eco-friendly!
- Did things not go as planned? No worries, give some basic troubleshooting a shot or reach out to our community for some helpful tips and tricks!
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