iPad 9 LCD Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Keep things safe! Make sure your iPad’s battery is below 25% before you start taking it apart. It’s a simple step that helps avoid any surprises!
Ready to swap out the liquid crystal display (LCD) on your iPad 9? Unlike those newer iPads and most smartphones, the glass digitizer and LCD on this model are separate – no fusion here! Just a heads-up: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, you can find that guide right here. Before you dive into the disassembly, be sure to drain your battery below 25% – this helps reduce the risk of fire in case the battery gets damaged. If your battery is swollen, proceed with extra caution. When isolating the battery with a battery blocker, be gentle – the contacts can easily get damaged, and once that happens, it’s all downhill. If you skip isolating the battery (we won't judge), keep metal tools to a minimum, and only use them when absolutely necessary (like when removing screws). This avoids any accidental shorts that could damage your iPad’s delicate internals. Some of the images in this guide come from a slightly different model, so don’t be alarmed if things look a little off – they won’t mess with the procedure. If you're feeling unsure at any point, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Alright, let's make sure your iPad is powered off before diving in. It's just good practice, and it'll keep everything safe while you work your magic.
- Warm up an iOpener and let it chill on the left edge of your iPad for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you're giving the adhesive a chance to do its thing, keep an eye out for these sensitive spots that don't appreciate being pried at too much:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
- Ambient light sensors
Step 3
The following three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you're not working with the Anti-Clamp, just jump down three steps for another way to get it open.
For a full rundown on how to handle the Anti-Clamp like a pro, check out this guide.
If your iPad's surface feels too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a good grip, slap on some tape to give it a little extra hold.
- Slide the blue handle backward to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set an object under your iPad so it sits evenly between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one at the top and one at the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create suction.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep going until the suction cups start to stretch out a bit.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups — they need to stay perfectly lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a little and realign the arms before moving on.
Step 5
Take it easy with the turns – just half a turn at a time, and give it a minute between each one. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting for you.
Looking for detailed instructions on using a hair dryer? Check out this handy guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't creating enough space, try applying a little more heat to the area and give the handle a half-turn clockwise.
- Give the adhesive about a minute to do its thing and loosen up, creating a nice little gap.
- If the screen isn't warming up enough, a hair dryer along the left edge of the iPad should do the trick.
- Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has made enough space.
- Feel free to skip the next step, it's not needed right now.
Step 6
Here’s how to get your iPad open using a trusty suction handle.
If the screen is shattered to smithereens, slap on some clear packing tape to give the suction cup something to grip. No tape? No problem—strong adhesive tape works too. And if you're feeling adventurous, a tiny dab of superglue can help your suction cup stick to that cracked screen.
- After the screen feels warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it near the left edge, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to pop open a little gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and the frame to keep things moving.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if the opening pick peeks through the digitizer—just slide it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, though you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that's a bit of a pain to clean.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep the pick snug in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together on you.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
Step 12
Be careful when sliding the pick near the front camera—it's easy to accidentally damage the lens. Follow the next steps to keep everything safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, and stop just before you reach the front camera — careful there!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive's grip.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before you move on.
Step 14
- Slide your pick gently towards the top-right corner of the iPad, carefully separating the top adhesive. You're almost there!
- Keep the pick in the top-right corner to avoid the adhesive sticking back together. It's a small but important move!
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide your way up until you’re about 3 inches from the bottom, then hold steady!
- Grab a new opening pick and carefully slide it along the right edge of the iPad until you reach the middle.
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the bottom edge of the iPad for about two minutes. Let the heat work its magic!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to twist the pick too much around the corner—your antenna might not appreciate it.
Check out the third image to spot the bottom-left antenna hanging out right under the digitizer.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to start loosening the adhesive.
- Leave the pick in place while you get ready for the next step.
Step 20
Gently slide the pick towards the home button, but don't push it the other way. Going away from the button could mess with the antenna, and we definitely don't want that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this section again, just take it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner.
- Pop a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made at the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide it along the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.
- Leave the pick just to the left of the home button, then you’re good to go!
Step 21
- Carefully slide an opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently work the pick under the home button, guiding it toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is caught between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—steering clear of going the other way—to keep that antenna safe and sound!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and re-insert it starting from the bottom-right corner.
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the home button to fully break through that bottom adhesive.
- Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here! Make sure your adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to work with. Use your pick to carefully separate all the adhesive. Don’t hesitate to pause and reheat if needed.
If things feel stuck, just warm up the edges again and gently work your way around with an opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer, peeling away the last stubborn bits of adhesive as you go.
Step 25
As you move through the next steps, try to keep your fingers off the back of the glass and the LCD surface—fingerprints love to stick around and they’re a pain to get rid of.
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive from the right side of your iPad. Take your time, it's like peeling a sticker—slow and steady wins the race!
Step 26
Watch out for those two digitizer cables! Use your opening pick with care so you don’t accidentally slice through them.
- While gently holding the digitizer in place, use an opening pick to slide between the two digitizer cables. This will help you break free the last bit of adhesive and keep things moving smoothly.
Step 27
- Once you've separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When it's time to put everything back together, grab some isopropyl alcohol to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame and the digitizer (if you're keeping it). Swap in some fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut cards for a secure seal.
- Watch out for those display cables when you're reassembling! Make sure they're folded neatly under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.2 mm-long screws that are holding the LCD in place. Easy peasy.
- Keep those screws safe! You’ll want to remember exactly where each one came from to avoid any mishaps when putting everything back together.
- If there’s any tape covering those screws, peel it away to reveal the treasures underneath.
Step 29
Hold up! Don’t yank the LCD out just yet—it’s still hanging on by a few cables near the home button.
Carefully peel the LCD up starting from the front-facing camera side only.
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the LCD just enough to get a good grip with your fingers.
- Flip the iPad’s LCD over like turning a page in a book, starting near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the frame.
- Set the LCD down carefully on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to loosen the 2.3 mm screw that's holding the battery connector in place on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 31
Check out these shots of the battery connector hiding beneath the logic board. Keep them handy as your go-to reference while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector uses cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll want to gently slide a thin, flexible tool between the contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 32
Be super careful when isolating the battery with a blocker! The contacts are pretty delicate, and a small slip could lead to some serious, permanent damage. Take it slow and steady!
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing upward—no upside-down surprises here!
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector with too much force. If it’s being stubborn, try sliding a playing card underneath to gently disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide under the logic board smoothly, without any hiccups. Once in place, it should sit at about a 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board’s battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees. Take it slow—no rush here!
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you continue working. It’ll be your trusty sidekick as you move through the steps.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Keep them safe, you’ll need them soon!
Step 34
- Carefully take off the display cable bracket to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 35
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until it clicks, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to prevent bending pins, which can cause permanent damage.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Put your device back together by reversing the steps you just followed—easy peasy!
- Got some old tech lying around? Drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler and give it a new life.
- Repair didn’t go perfectly? No worries—try some basic troubleshooting, or if you’re stuck, you can always schedule a repair for a helping hand.
