iPad 9 Left Bluetooth and Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
For a smooth repair experience, make sure to drain your iPad’s battery to under 25% before you start taking it apart. Safety first!
Ready to replace that left Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna on your iPad 9 Wi-Fi? No problem, we've got you covered! Just a heads up, this guide is for the Wi-Fi version—if you have the LTE version, make sure to check out the right guide. Before you dive in, make sure to drain the battery to below 25% for safety's sake. It lowers the chance of a fire in case something goes wrong while working on the battery. If your battery’s swollen, handle it with care—precautions are key. Be extra cautious when isolating the battery with a blocker. The contacts can be delicate, and any damage here is a one-way ticket to permanent damage. If you skip the battery isolation, be gentle with the tools, especially metal ones—only use them when you absolutely have to (like for screws) to avoid shorting the battery and causing any trouble with the sensitive circuits. You’ll also need some replacement adhesive to wrap things up. A quick note: Some of the photos here may be from a different model, but no worries—they won’t throw off the repair process. If you hit a snag or need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Before you dive in, make sure your iPad is powered off. Safety first, always!
- Warm up an iOpener and place it along the left edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As the adhesive starts to chill out and loosen up, keep an eye on these sneaky spots that don’t like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
- Ambient light sensors
Step 3
These next three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we designed to make opening things a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps to try the alternate method.
Want a complete rundown on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for all the details.
If your iPad is being slippery and the Anti-Clamp is having trouble sticking, try adding some tape to give it a better grip.
- Slide the blue handle back to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms—easy does it!
- Prop your iPad up on something so it stays nice and level between the suction cups.
- Set the suction cups close to the middle of the left side—one near the top and one near the bottom.
- Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady, then press down firmly on the top cup to get a good seal.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree clockwise spin, or keep turning until the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups — they should stay perfectly lined up. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms before continuing.
Step 5
Take it easy with the turning – no more than half a twist at a time, and give it a minute to chill in between. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do their thing.
Want to get the most out of your hair dryer? We've got you covered with this handy guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making enough space, just add a little more heat to the area and turn the handle clockwise about half a turn.
- Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap to work with.
- If your screen isn’t warming up enough, try giving the left edge of the iPad a quick heat boost with a hair dryer.
- Once the Anti-Clamp opens a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to get things moving.
- Go ahead and skip the next step.
Step 6
Here’s how to pop open your iPad using a suction handle—nice and easy.
If your screen is shattered into a million pieces, try sticking clear packing tape over it to give the suction cup something to grip. If that’s not cutting it, some strong tape can step in for the suction cup. And if all else fails, a little superglue on the suction cup will help it stick to that cracked screen.
- After the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle onto the left edge of the screen, making sure it's as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame to start the separation.
Tools Used
Step 7
If you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer, no sweat—just slide it out gently. The LCD should stay safe, but be careful not to leave behind any sticky adhesive residue that's a pain to clean up later.
- Pop in a second opening pick right into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
- Leave the pick tucked in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets a bit too cozy stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going smoothly.
Step 9
- Take your first opening pick and gently slide it towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
- Leave that pick in place at the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 10
- Warm up that iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera – it could scratch the lens! We'll show you how to avoid that in the next steps.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, but be careful not to get too close to the front camera. A little distance goes a long way.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out so only its tip stays tucked between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick over the front camera to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep the pick resting just to the right side of the front camera before moving on.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and gently glide it toward the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it onto the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently glide the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of the iPad. Ease up on that sliding once you hit 3 inches from the bottom—you're on the right track!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and glide it smoothly to the center of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and gently place it along the bottom edge of the iPad for about two minutes. Give it a little time to work its magic and soften things up.
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid twisting the pick all the way around the corner — the antenna might throw a fit if you do!
In the third image, you'll spot the bottom-left antenna hanging out under the digitizer. Keep an eye on it—it's sneaky, but you'll get it.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick all the way down to the bottom-left corner to loosen that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick tucked in the corner while you get ready for the next step.
Step 20
Make sure to slide the pick only toward the home button, not away from it, to keep that antenna safe and sound!
If you find yourself needing to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
- Slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before you reach the home button.
- Leave the pick resting to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
- Gently slide an opening pick into the gap you've made.
- Carefully guide the pick underneath the home button, moving it towards the bottom-right corner. Just make sure only the tip of the pick sits between the digitizer and the frame—easy does it!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button, not away from it, to keep that antenna safe and sound!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-right corner. You've got this!
- Pop that pick back in and shimmy it toward the home button to fully peel away the bottom adhesive. You're almost there!
- Just leave the pick hanging out to the right of the home button while you move on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and press it against the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes. Let the heat work its magic.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy and proceed with caution on this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and that you've separated all the sticky bits with your trusty pick. And hey, if you need to pause and give it another heat-up, go for it!
If you hit some stubborn resistance, just warm up the edges again and gently work your opening pick along them to loosen things up.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, loosening the last stubborn bits of adhesive as you go.
Step 25
As you tackle the remaining steps, keep those fingers away from the back of the glass and the LCD surface—fingerprints can be a real hassle to wipe off later!
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad.
Step 26
Heads up! Gently wiggle your opening pick around those two digitizer cables — they’re delicate and deserve some TLC.
- Gently lift the digitizer while slipping an opening pick between the two cables. This will help you separate any remaining adhesive. Take it slow, and you'll get there in no time!
Step 27
- Once you've expertly separated all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a charming little book and lay it down parallel to your iPad.
- When it's time to put things back together, give the remaining adhesive a good clean with some isopropyl alcohol—don't forget the digitizer if you're reusing it! Replace that sticky stuff with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables while you're reassembling your iPad! Make sure they're neatly folded underneath the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps.
Step 28
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and remove the four 4.2 mm screws that are holding the LCD in place—nothing too tricky here!
- As you go through the repair, keep track of those screws—each one has its special home, so putting them back in the right spot will save you from any iPad drama later.
- If there's any tape covering the LCD screws, just peel it away before you get to work. Smooth sailing ahead!
Step 29
Don't try to yank the LCD all the way off just yet – it's still attached by a few cables near the home button.
Gently lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end, and take it slow.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the LCD just enough so you can grab it with your fingers. No need to rush, take your time!
- Flip the iPad LCD like you're turning the pages of a book, starting near the camera and smoothly rotating it over the home button end of the frame.
- Carefully set the LCD down on a soft, clean surface so you can get a good look at the display cables without any distractions.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and gently unscrew the tiny 2.3 mm-long screw that's holding the battery connector to the logic board in place.
Step 31
These photos give you a clear view of the battery connector beneath the logic board. Keep these images handy while you carefully disconnect the battery.
You'll notice the battery connector has some little cantilever springs that press onto the battery contact pads. Since both the board and battery are glued down, you’ll want to slip something thin and flexible between the contact points to get the battery loose. Just take it slow, and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 32
Take your time and follow the steps closely if you're isolating the battery with a blocker. The battery contacts are fragile and can easily get bent or broken, leading to some serious damage. So, stay steady and don't rush! If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing up. It’s like giving it a high-five before you get to work!
Don’t force the battery blocker under the connector. If it's being a bit stubborn, try using a playing card to disconnect the battery gently. No need to be a superhero here!
The battery blocker or playing card should slide smoothly under the logic board. It should rest at about a 15-degree angle once it's in place, like a little ramp for your battery to chill.
- Gently slide that battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a snazzy 35-degree angle.
- Keep the battery blocker right where it is while you tackle the rest of the repair!
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three tiny screws holding the display cable bracket in place. Each screw is just 1.4 mm long, so they're like little ninjas waiting to be removed!
Step 34
- Take off that display cable bracket and set it aside. It's a small step, but it makes a big difference in the process!
Step 35
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this one, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle, as misalignment can bend the pins and cause permanent damage.
Tools Used
Step 36
- Gently lift off the LCD and lay it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe while you work.
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that’s cozying up to the home button cable ZIF connector. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail to gently lift up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Take it slow, it's a delicate little flap, but you'll get it!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector, keeping it nice and straight. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 40
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: when you're prying open your iPad, make sure to focus on the connectors themselves, not the socket on the logic board. We want to keep your device safe and sound!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
Tools Used
Step 41
Be super gentle to avoid poking or ripping the home button ribbon cable—it’s a delicate little guy!
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the buffer block at the bottom-right corner of your iPad. Take your time, no rush!
- Lift the buffer block away carefully and set it aside.
Tools Used
Step 42
The home button cable is lightly glued in place, so a gentle nudge should do the trick to get it free.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently lift the home button cable off the frame. Take your time – a steady hand here goes a long way.
Tools Used
Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and carefully slice through any leftover adhesive that might still be clinging the front panel assembly to the frame. It's time to set it free!
Watch out! If these areas of the digitizer aren’t insulated properly, they could accidentally touch other components and throw a tantrum, leading to touch input issues. Let’s keep things grounded!
Just a heads-up: the insulation is sneaky—it won’t be visible to your eye and it’s not the same as the foam dust barriers you might find on some iPads. Stay sharp!
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If you notice any spooky "ghost" or "phantom" touch issues with your new display, a thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape applied to the highlighted spots on the back of the panel usually does the trick. Replacement digitizers already have this insulation, so no extra tape should be needed.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad and clean those sticky areas with a strong isopropyl alcohol solution (90% or higher) and a lint-free cloth. This preps your device for fresh adhesive and helps it stick like a charm.
- Give your iPad a test run to check all functions, then add the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.
Step 44
- Slide the pointed end of your spudger gently under the left antenna cable and lift straight up to unplug it—easy does it!
- When putting everything back together, these connectors like a little extra TLC. Hold each connector steady over its socket and press down with the flat end of your spudger until it clicks snugly into place.
Tools Used
Step 45
Hold onto the antenna cable itself, not the connector! Tugging on those connectors can lead to breakage. Let's keep them safe and sound!
Heads up: the tape holding down the left antenna cable is hiding right under the tape securing the right antenna cable. If it’s being stubborn, gently peel up the right antenna cable tape first to get better access.
- Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the rear case like you’re unveiling a secret.
Step 47
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three screws holding the left antenna in place. No need to rush, take it easy.
- One 2.2 mm screw, it's a small guy but it’s got a big job!
- Two 1.3 mm screws, just a little bit shorter than the last one. No sweat!
Step 48
The antenna cable is held in place on the speaker by a tiny metal bracket that’s crimped tight and stuck down with adhesive. To get the antenna out, you’ll need to carefully cut through the glue holding it to the speaker enclosure.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap between the speaker enclosure and its bracket.
- Gently glide the pick towards the charging port to break that stubborn adhesive.
- Carefully push the bracket away from the speaker to free it from the tape underneath.
Step 49
- Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna and speaker assembly to get things started.
- Work the pick underneath the antenna to carefully slice through the foam adhesive.
- Lift out the left antenna and set it aside.
