iPad 9 LTE Button Control Cable Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 70 Steps
Before you dive into the iPad disassembly fun, make sure to drain the battery to below 25%. Safety first, always!
Follow this guide to swap out the button control cable in your iPad 9 LTE. Heads up: this is for the LTE model only—if you have the Wi-Fi version, click here instead. The button control cable includes the lock and volume buttons all in one, so if any of those are acting up, you’ll need to replace the whole cable. For safety, drain your battery below 25% before opening up your iPad to lower any fire risk if the battery gets damaged during the repair. If the battery looks swollen, take extra care. Be super careful when disconnecting the battery using a battery blocker, since those contacts are fragile and easy to ruin permanently. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like for screws) to prevent short circuits and damage to sensitive parts. Some photos here might be from a slightly different model and look a bit different, but that won’t mess with the steps.
Step 1
Before you dive in, make sure to power off your iPad to keep things safe and sound.
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the left edge of your iPad for two minutes.
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Step 2
- While the adhesive is doing its thing and loosening up, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that don’t like prying:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps will introduce you to the Anti-Clamp, a nifty little tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, feel free to hop down three steps for a different approach.
For detailed instructions on how to make the most of the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If you discover that your iPad's surface is a bit too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just use some tape to give it a little extra traction.
- Flip the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
- Set something under your iPad so it sits nice and level between the suction cups.
- Stick the suction cups near the middle of the left side—one at the top, one at the bottom.
- Hold the bottom part of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top suction cup to get a good grip.
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to seal the deal with those arms.
- Now, twist the handle a full 360 degrees or until those suction cups start to stretch like a good workout.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to ensure they're in sync. If they start to wobble out of formation, just loosen them a tad and bring those arms back into line.
Step 5
Take it easy and don't twist more than half a turn at a time. Give it a minute between each turn – let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do their thing. You’ve got this!
Want the full scoop on how to rock that hair dryer? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you enough wiggle room, just heat it up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn. Easy peasy!
- Hang tight for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up a bit and create a nice little opening for you.
- If your screen isn't warming up enough, feel free to grab a hairdryer and gently warm up the left edge of your iPad.
- Slide an opening pick under the digitizer once the Anti-Clamp has worked its magic and made a big enough gap.
- Go ahead and skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, slapping on a layer of clear packing tape might just do the trick to help your suction cup stick. If that doesn’t float your boat, some heavy-duty tape can step in to save the day instead of the suction cup. And if you're really in a bind, a little superglue can help bond that suction cup right to the broken screen!
- First things first, let’s warm up that screen a bit! Once it’s cozy to the touch, grab a suction handle and give it a spot on the left edge—aim for as close to the edge as you can get.
- Now, gently pull up on the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You’re doing great!
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made. You got this!
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Step 7
No need to stress if the opening pick is peeking through the digitizer—just give it a gentle tug and remove it. The LCD screen should be just fine, though there's a chance you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that's a bit tricky to clean up.
- Pop in a second opening pick where you just made some space.
- Gently slide the pick down toward the bottom-left corner of your iPad to break that pesky adhesive seal.
- Keep that pick tucked in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking again.
Step 8
- If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, don't sweat it! Just roll it along the side of the iPad to keep peeling away that sticky stuff. It'll do the trick!
Step 9
- Gently nudge that first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive holding it tight.
- Keep that pick snug in the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn't decide to play hard to get again.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
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Step 11
Be sure to only slide that pick in up to 7 mm—going deeper might mess with the ambient light sensor, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera—you don’t want to risk damaging that lens! Keep following the steps to make sure it stays safe and sound.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before the front camera to avoid any surprises.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick so that just the tip stays nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick above the front camera to break the adhesive free.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little slide up toward the top-right corner of the iPad to fully break free from the adhesive's grasp.
- Keep that pick snug in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from pulling a sneaky re-seal.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and press it gently against the right edge of your iPad for about two minutes. Let the heat work its magic and soften things up a bit.
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Step 16
Be sure to slide that pick in only about 4 mm – we don't want to give the ambient light sensor a surprise it didn't ask for!
- Twist that pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Stop sliding your tool once you hit the three-inch mark from the bottom to avoid any surprises.
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it right into the heart of the iPad's right edge. You're doing great!
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and give the bottom edge of your iPad a cozy two-minute hug.
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Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner – we don't want to accidentally mess with the antenna!
The third image gives you a peek at the bottom-left antenna hiding out under the digitizer. Keep an eye out for it!
- Gently slide the pick into the bottom-left corner to break the adhesive seal. Take your time, no rush!
- Once the pick is in place, let it rest there for now before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—going the other way could give the antenna a bad hair day!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area again, go ahead and pull it out, then pop it back in at the bottom-left corner.
- Pop in a fresh opening pick where you just made that little gap at the bottom of your iPad.
- Gently glide that pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.
- Keep the pick positioned to the left of the home button as you move forward.
Step 21
- Pop in an opening pick right where you've made that sneaky little gap!
- Gently slide the pick under the home button and glide it over to the bottom-right corner, just letting the tip hang out between the digitizer and the frame. Nice and easy!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently towards the home button – don't push it the other way, or you might mess with the antenna. Play it safe!
If you need to glide the pick over this part again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Pop that pick back in and slide it toward the home button to fully loosen the bottom adhesive.
- Set the pick down just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
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Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to work with, and carefully run your opening pick all around to loosen it up. If things get stuck, don’t hesitate to pause and heat it back up before moving on.
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges another heat-up and gently glide your opening pick along them. You got this!
- Gently twist the opening picks into the left corners of the iPad, giving the digitizer a slight lift. This should help separate the last bits of adhesive without too much hassle.
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer and give it a little nudge upwards to help separate the adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. Easy does it – just enough to break the seal without causing a fuss.
Step 26
Heads up! Gently wiggle your opening pick around those two display cables to keep them safe and sound.
- Keep the digitizer steady while you gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break apart the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- After you've separated all that sticky adhesive, gently swing open the digitizer like a book, laying it flat next to your iPad.
- When it's time to put everything back together, give that leftover adhesive a good scrub with isopropyl alcohol—don't forget to do the same for the digitizer if you're giving it a second chance! Then, replace the old adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Watch out for those display cables during reassembly! Tuck them neatly beneath the LCD screen to keep everything safe and sound.
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers, or use your fingers if you're feeling brave, and gently peel away any tape covering those LCD screws. Easy, right?
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Step 29
- Grab your Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully unscrew the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place.
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Step 30
The LCD is just hanging out with the frame, not really stuck on there too tight. A little nudge and it should come right off!
- Gently slide a spudger between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully pry with the spudger to loosen the adhesive.
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Step 31
- Give it another go for the top-left section of that LCD!
Step 32
Hold off on yanking the LCD out just yet—it’s still hanging on by that sneaky flex cable!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its cozy little spot just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, flip that LCD like you're turning the pages of an exciting book, lifting it near the camera and rolling it over towards the home button end of the frame.
- Carefully place the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface, giving you easy access to those display cables. You're doing great!
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Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and remove the 2.3 mm screw that's holding the battery connector to the logic board. Nice and easy – you're doing great!
Step 34
Check out these photos to get a good look at the battery connector hiding under the logic board. Keep them handy as you carefully disconnect the battery.
You’ll notice those little cantilever springs on the connector—they press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the board and battery are glued down, grab something thin and flexible to gently slide between the contact points and safely separate the battery.
Step 35
Heads up! When you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker, take it easy—those battery contacts are super delicate and can bend or snap in a flash, causing damage you can’t undo.
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing up, just like a little flag that says 'I'm ready!'
Don't force the battery blocker under the connector. If it's being stubborn, try using a playing card to gently disconnect the battery instead. It's a smoother move!
The battery blocker or playing card should slide right under the logic board without any issues. After it's in place, it should rest at a cool 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide that battery blocker right under the logic board's battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees—just like a pro!
- Keep that battery blocker in position while you tackle the rest of the task.
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Step 36
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the three tiny 1.4 mm screws that are holding the display cable bracket in place. Easy does it!
Step 37
- Carefully remove the display cable bracket. It's a small but important step, so take your time!
Step 38
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pry up to disconnect the LCD cable press connector. Easy does it!
- When it’s time to reattach connectors like this, take it slow. Align one side carefully and press down until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing on the middle – trust us, it’s the best way to keep those tiny pins from bending. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 39
- Gently lift the LCD off and carefully set it down, screen-side facing the soft, lint-free surface. Treat it like you're placing a delicate piece of art—take your time!
Step 40
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape shielding the home button cable's ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 41
- Grab your trusty spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail (yep, it works!) and gently flip up that small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. Nice and easy, you've got this!
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Step 42
- Grab a pair of tweezers and carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. It should come off smoothly – just keep a steady hand!
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Step 43
Be careful not to go prying around on the logic board socket. Stick to the connectors themselves to avoid causing any damage to your iPad. It's all about the gentle touch!
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to pop them loose and disconnect them.
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Step 44
Heads up! Be gentle and avoid poking or tearing the home button ribbon cable—it’s delicate and deserves some love.
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the buffer block located near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.
- Lift and take out the buffer block.
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Step 45
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the frame. You've got this!
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Step 46
Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive still holding the front panel assembly to the frame—patience is key!
Skipping proper insulation here can cause the digitizer to short out by touching other parts, which means your touch screen might go on strike.
This insulation is a sneaky little thing—it's invisible to the naked eye and not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you find on many iPads.
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with random or 'ghost' touches, a quick fix is to stick a super thin insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape on the marked spots on the back of the panel. Most replacement digitizers already come with this insulation, so you probably won’t need extra tape.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad and wipe the glued areas down with 90% (or stronger) isopropyl alcohol using a lint-free cloth. This preps the surface for fresh adhesive and helps it stick like a champ.
- Give your iPad a test run to check all functions, then apply the pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display following the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.
Step 47
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape away from the top component bracket—easy does it!
Step 48
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and loosen the five screws holding down the upper component bracket:
- Three screws measuring 1.4 mm in length
- Two screws measuring 1.9 mm in length
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Step 49
- Gently use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up the upper component bracket just enough so you can grab it with your fingers and lift it out.
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Step 50
- Gently peel the upper component bracket away from the tape with your fingers.
- Carefully remove the upper component bracket.
Step 51
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the rear camera press connector and give it a little pry to disconnect it. You've got this!
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Step 52
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the rear camera for about thirty seconds.
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Step 54
The right ambient light sensor is just chillin' lightly attached to the frame. It’s not too stuck, so give it a gentle nudge and you’ll be good to go!
- Grab your tweezers, or if you're feeling a little more hands-on, your fingers, and gently lift the sensor out. You've got this!
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Step 55
- Gently peel back the right ambient light sensor toward the edge of the device, just enough to reveal the hidden screw behind it. Let's get this repair party started!
Step 56
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the two 2.3 mm screws holding down the lock button bracket. You got this!
Step 57
- Gently use your fingers to pop the power button bracket out from its spot.
Step 58
The button control cable is gently stuck to the side of the volume button bracket, so take your time peeling it off.
- Gently peel the button control cable off the volume button bracket with care.
Step 59
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and gently take out those two 2.2 mm-long screws holding the volume button bracket snugly to the rear case. You're doing great!
Step 60
- Grab your trusty tweezers or just use your fingers to gently pry the volume button bracket away from the edge of your device.
- Time to say goodbye to the volume button bracket!
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Step 61
- Carefully remove any tape that might be hiding the button control cable ZIF connector.
Step 62
- Gently pry up the tiny hinged locking flap on the button control cable’s ZIF connector using the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail. Patience is key!
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Step 63
- Gently grab a pair of tweezers and coax the button control cable right out of the ZIF connector, taking care to pull it straight. You've got this!
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Step 64
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the volume buttons out from their spots in the back case.
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Step 65
Once you take out the button control cable, the lock button might feel a bit wobbly. Don't worry, that's totally normal!
- First things first, gently unplug that button control cable - it's time for a little separation!
- When you’re putting everything back together, don’t forget to pop the power button back into its cozy slot. It’ll be happy to be back home!
Step 66
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the button control cable for about thirty seconds to loosen things up.
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Step 67
- Grab those tweezers and give the upper volume button a little love squeeze.
- Slide an opening pick right between the volume control cable and that upper volume button. Be gentle!
- Now, carefully peel that volume control cable away from the upper volume button. You're doing great!
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Step 68
- Just like before, go ahead and gently peel the volume control cable away from the lower volume button. You've got this!
Step 69
- Grab the power button bracket with a pair of tweezers—steady hands, steady repairs!
- Slide a halberd spudger or opening pick between the power button bracket and the button control cable like a pro.
- Gently peel the button control cable off the pegs on the power button bracket—easy does it.
- When putting it all back together, stick some Tesa tape on the volume buttons and lock button bracket to keep that button control cable in place.
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Step 70
- Put your device back together by following these steps in reverse—it’s like rewinding a movie, but cooler.
- Remember to drop off your electronic waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler to keep things green.
- If the repair didn’t quite work out, try a bit of troubleshooting or get some tips from our iPad 9 Answers community.
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